TomRhere

My '82 BRAT has a hitch on it also, and I always wondered why they didn't do the lighting plug on it. Well, I found the plug while tracing-out wiring issues for 86subaru's '84 BRAT. The plug for the trailer lights was stuffed in behind the PS Tail-light assembly. Pull your light units out and take a look, you might find yours.

Any more info on those little tubes you mentioned? Sounds like a good idea to me. And yes, excellant write-up.

Lots of the Members here have used the Heli-coil kits to repair stripped threads, they do work. Myself, I don't like them unless absolutely nessecary. What I have done for those exhaust stud threads, is use a 7/16"-14 tap, fits right in the bore of the hole with no drilling needed. Actually, I use two taps. 1st the starter tap, (it's the one with the pointed end), then follow with the bottoming tap, that'll get you a couple more threads in there. I'm a firm believer in coarse threads in soft metals, such as aluminum. You can get Stainless Steel studs to use after you do the tapping, or just use a bolt with lock and flat washers. Be sure to use Anti-sieze on what ever you do finally use, helps with future removal.

Way to go Steve!!! Glad you finally got them. Ifin it were me. I'd do the needed repairs to the one with bad engine, and keep 'em both. On a nother note; any luck on finding those rocker panels for me?

Downright gorgeous it is!!!

Got that Tick-Tick-Tick in my XT-6 too. More so when engine is cold, less so after it warms up. Poured some MMO in the oil and ran it a few days, seemed to help some. Did an oil/filter change and put some more MMO in. Did a 230 mile road trip, the Tick has lessened quite a bit now. Still have it on start-up, but goes away rather quickly for the most part. Sometimes one will Tick for a while, sometimes all 12 (thousand) of them will Tick. Sometimes, it be a light Tick, sometimes it be way LOUD. Going to either order a new pump, or just get a re-seal kit for this one. Oil pressure is right up there where it should be, but as said previously, maybe it's just cause of where gauge sensor is located. When pump seals go bad, they tend to suck air instead of oil. Pressure is pressure, be it oil or be it air, but air doesn't do so well in the HLA's, so they Tick.

Yep, still planning on making it. Will probally have the XT-6, as it's the only one running at the moment.

Not saying it is cause, just could be, 'specially if you used original hose. Possibility of inner liner of hose has seperated and is blocking the return of fluid back to the resevior. This would basically have the pump dumping the fluid thru the pressure relief valve in the pump, hence no power assist. Would try another line if you have one. Remember to bleed air out of system, by turning steering wheel lock-to-lock with engine running, and checking fluid level after couple of those.

Few things in this thread may help you out. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26269

If you do go the Weber swap, I would swap an EA-82 carbed intake on your engine. You don't really need to do it, but the EA-82 intake, has a larger opening beneath the carb, and I do believe the runners are larger too.

A new "factory stock" replacement Y-pipe is spendy to say the least, upwards of $260.00. www.discountconverter.com They have a listing for the stock converter, you'll have to have the header pipes bent though. They also have a multitude of other converters 'specially in the universal listings. Like a Dual 2" in/outlet one, both with and without O2 sensor fitting. Thinking of that one myself for use on all of the 'Roos I have here.

Would suspect the wiring harness connector also. Have had wonky gauge and fuel light on 2 of the BRATs. One was just corroded connector, other is bad sending unit. Also, the units "ground" thru the tank itself, if you lose the ground, they'll get weird on you. Bad ground can be fixed by running a screw thru the lip of the tank into the mounting area of the body, works most of the time anyways.

Thoughts at large; Driveshaft to long, causing bind on output shaft of tranny. Driveshaft to short, allowing the splines to wobble on the output shaft of the tranny. With driveshaft bottomed out into the tranny, you should have about an inch, but no more, of free-space between rear U-joint and rear diff flange. Driveshaft out of balance, bent. If this was a custom built driveshaft, maybe they didn't get the yokes for the U-joints in-line with each other, that definetly will cause a vibration. Had a rookie do that to me once, the shop made it right though. Try pulling driveshaft and driving around with out it in, see if it's still there. Would even try shifting into 4WD just to check. Check engine to bellhousing mating surface area, make sure it is flush all the way around. Any foreign debri between tranny and bell housing would put bind on input shaft of tranny. Lastly; Are you sure you guys put the pilot bearing in? :-\ Been known to happen.

I'm in the market for some good rust-free rockers, maybe some other parts if you were to get it

Got an '86 Sedan here I'm parting out. Have to see if it has crank-up windows in it. (don't recall at the moment). I'll post back here later with results of look-see. Have had low-lifes do that to me in the past, really burns my @$$!!!!

I ported the (EA-82) manifold on mine when I installed the Weber, using a blunt tip rotary file mounted in an electric drill. I C-clamped the manifold to the work bench, mounted all of the spacers, adapters and what-nots using extra bolts. Then I just blended everything together to get rid of that stairstep look of the port opening. Got alittle close to the water port, but I filled it with some Liquid Aluminum, (kinda like JB Weld), after cleaning the area good, and smoothed it off level with the top of the manifold.

I like it.. Did you block-off the air tubes, the 1" diameter pipes going into the head at the exhaust ports? If not, would be source of back-fire.

The spline count is on the tranny end of the axle. You can use 2WD axles on 4WD and viceversa, the 4WD axle has a larger diameter axle shaft, but that's about it. Other than spline count, you need to make sure the axle is for the right vehicle, EA-81 or EA-82 family, as there is length differences. The EA-82 axle is longer. When installing axle on tranny stub, you need to make sure you line-up the pin hole correctly. There is a dimple on both the tranny stub and the axle, that is your alignment mark. Will fit 180* out, but pin won't fit thru hole.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=53

Haven't tried this myself, so not real sure on it. Maybe you could get a small mirrior and a light source down by the rocker area and take a look in towards the lifters themselves. If, you can actually see them, hydraulic lifters will have a spring clip holding the inner section into the lifter casing. If you have the push-rod out, you should see the oil port in the center. (atleast I think they have one there, thinking on how Chevies do theirs here. haven't done any internal stuff on one of these engines, yet) Solid lifters will be just that, solid. They will have a dimple where the push-rod seats, but that's it. Took me something like 3 or 4 tries to get them adjusted right. 2nd to last attempt, I backed the adjusters out as far as they would go, then started engine and ran it for a few minutes. Really rattled something fierce!!! Shut it off and let it cool a bit, then adjusted per manual. Fired it up, still had one ticking a bit, re-adjusted it. No more noise.....

This article may help you some in your calculations. http://www.jodel.com/index.asp?p=exhaust&engines

Yes, there is still pressure on the pushrod and related parts, but it is not, or shouldn't be, enough to overcome the valve spring tension which would cause valve to open. I started the engine after I did the adjustments, but before putting the rocker covers back on. Makes for a nice mess on the garage floor by the way. Did so, just to make sure I didn't have one to loose causing it to tick, or to tight causing a miss. This was the 1st time I ever had a rocker cover off an EA-81 engine. I had swapped heads, due to busting most of the intake bolts off while swapping intake manifolds. I jumped to the assumtion that because there were adjusting methods on both the old heads, and the new ones, that these were the solid lifter type. My bad.... Wasn't sure if this was original '84 engine, as one cover had the do not adjust sticker, the other one never had one on it that I could tell of, and it had two different bolts holding it onto engine. Lot of things help lead me to making the wrong dicision on what type lifters were in that engine.

Welcome to the Board! Couple of things I can think of off-hand are; Coolant in cylinder, caused by bad Head Gasket. This will cause the engine to be Hydraulicly locked, as you can not compress a liquid. Pull spark plugs and attempt to turn engine by hand, watch for coolant from plug holes. If you see any, you've blown a HG, and it needs replaced. Thrown connecting rod. This is not good. Engine will need to be replaced. Thrown Timing Belt. Possibility, albeit extreme, of a T-Belt breaking and getting wrapped around the crank, and other parts there. Could have gotten wedged, locking engine. Pull the outer ends of the T-Belt covers, see if belts are still there. If one is missing off cam sprocket, you need to replace your T-belts. These are non-interferance engines, so no valve/piston damage if a belt breaks.

The "zero point", is also known as "zero lash", meaning there still should be some tension on the pushrods. If you can get your fingers on the push rod and try to spin it, it shouldn't turn after you get to the "zero point". Just went thru this myself on the '84 BRAT I had. Took me some doing to get them right, mainly due to me mucking it up the 1st go-round. Good lighting while your're adjusting them helps emensly, you can see movement of valve much better.

If it's just surface rust, Turtle Wax will remove it, takes some elbow grease but it works. You want the liquid type, not the paste. If the rust is deep, you won't get it all without removing the Chrome in that area