TomRhere

Few things come to mind that could be culprit here. Bad connection in bulb socket, Bad connection further back in wiring harness, which on the BRATs, there's a couple but I'm not real sure on yours. Bad/broken contacts in turnsignal switch, providing yours has same bulb filament for TS/Brake

If you're doing this by yourself, a floor-jack under the outer edge of door bottom is a great helper in both removing and installing. Don't want alot of pressure of jack on door edge, just want to help hold it up is all.

That sucks!!! Big time... You just park it, or had it been sitting awhile?

I've had the pesky li'l varmits in 3 of the BRATs now. I used Murphy's Oil Soap to wash down everything but the carpet and seats. Gets rid of odor, and leaves a real nice almost new car smell behind.

You got it!!! To quote a line from a ZZ Top song, "She might get out a nightstick, and hurt me real real bad, by the roadside in the dessert."

Seems my Subaru supply has grown some. Recently purchased an '86 2WD/5-spd Sedan from Miles Fox, $200.00. This is "parts car". Got an '88 2WD/Auto GL-10 Wagon from CIS Subaru, this is the one he did the CIS conversion on, (he has kept engine and CIS parts). Car was free, but I gave him $100.00 to tow it up here from his place. This be a "fixer-upper", and may very well be M-I-L's "new ride", if she really wants it after I'm finished fixing it. I'll be making a road trip to 86subaru's place this week-end to get the '86 BRAT I bought from him up here to my place. This will be Wife's "new ride", she has stated so. Also this week-end, I'll be taking the '84 BRAT (in my sig), down to 86subaru. I'll be trading it for the XT-6 he recently bought. The battle has not been decided on yet as to just "who's ride" this will be. Wife is claiming "hers", but I'm decreeing "mine". (we shall see how that pans out, after I get out of the hospital, if I survive the battle that is).

http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/subaru/1/CIS/

Went thru this meself when I ditched the cat on the '82. You need to block the steel pipes shown in your pic, either at the exhaust port/Y-pipe connection, or where they go into the piece shown in pic. Did mine at the exhaust port. GeneralDisorder often stated that a quarter would fit enough to block port, just put in in-front of tube, where it attaches to exaust port. I just cut the tube and welded in a section of a bolt that I had cut down, in the tube, close to fitting.

Take the spare Y-pipe down to a local Muffler Shop. They can install O2 fitting for you.

Nice, me likes.......

Looking good! Gotta ask though, that the same one you've been up here with? Always been dark out when you get here, so never got a good look at what you were driving. BTW. Noah delivered the '88 GL-10 Wagon yesterday. Looks good. Sorry to say, but the Sedan I got from you, will be sacraficed to fix Wagon........... I'll pull and store engine for you...............

If the front and rear TS bulbs are lit, it would point towards the flasher(s) being bad, (or missing). There's 2 flashers, 1 for TS, 1 for E-Flashers. And yes, they are "fun" to get to... Now, (some FYI here), if the rear TS bulb is blown, your front one and the dash indicator will light but not blink. If a front one blows, the rear and dash indicator will blink rapidly. This is only for the TS system. The E-F will/should blink regardless if a bulb is out. This is providing that the flasher unit(s) are good. You can use either flasher unit in either circuit. Putting an E-F unit on the TS will slow the blink rate slightly. Putting a TS unit on the E-F will speed up the blink rate. I usually use the heavy-duty E-F unit on both circuits. This will be benificial if you tow a trailer, as the TS bulbs on the trailer will change the blink rate due to added load on circuit. School is out now.......

Carb + 'puter = Feed-back carb on engine. California models were that way, along with some others. Should have/had O2 sensor on Y-pipe. Not sure what the all 'puter controls on these things, so I can't help you much there. Honestly didn't think one would run without 'puter hooked up though. Hey, if it works that way, why worry!! Could be that the 'puter went FUBAR on you. Not sure if it would swap in, but the '82 had one in it, I don't need it anymore. Yours if it'll work.... Anyone got input on that?

Just wanted to say, Welcome to the Board! We used to live in Midway, '91-'94. Wife has Family there. And yes, these are awesome vehicles, I'm hooked along with the Wife.

Would also check the connections under the fuseable links. Lost headlights on my old '86 BRAT, found wire broken/corroded off under link box.

It's possible that the Driverside Timing belt has jumped. Follow the steps in the Haynes manual for doing the T-belts to check this. The instructions there are good, but slightly mis-leading as it shows both cam marks at the top, when actually one side will be up, the other side will be down. Doesn't really matter which one is up, as long as other side is down, when you have the crank lined up with the T-belt timing indicator lines.

My 1st thoughts on this would be defective T-stat, as the radiator was cool, hoses warmish, and engine hot. In my book, that means bad T-stat.

The '86 BRAT I had would lose the dinger on occasion. I would also find that the horn wouldn't work, along with the dome light. Can see the relation between dinger and dome light, but not the horn. Don't have any wiring info here to go by, but I'd like to know the answer to this one myself. The '84 don't ding most of the time, and the dome light has never come on when I open the door, works by switch though.

Trying to remember how the XT-6 was set up, been over a year since I pulled the ER-27 out. Do believe, that there was an upper one on the top engine/tranny bolts. If nothing else, just do a custom fabbed mount for one. Hmmmm, maybe I'll just fab the front one into my design instead. I'll be putting a Bash-plate on the front to help protect the engine and other vitals located there. So I'll have something in the area to mount it to anyways.

Not wanting to cause you anymore agravation here. But the exhaust fumes burning your eyes, is a good sign of a bad vacuum modulator on the tranny. Means you're burning tranny fluid. Quick check on that is to pull vacuum line off of modulator at the tranny end. If ATF comes out, it be bad. You may have some trapped air in the cooling system still. That may be the cause of the coolant wanting to "push-out" of the radiator.

Could be alignment, could be brake. Check to make sure E-brake lever on RH caliper is releasing fully. Take it for a drive down the road, do an easy stop so as to not put more heat into brakes, then get out and feel the center of the hubs. Looking for one to be much warmer than others, that'll be your dragging brake. Could be front, could be rear. Word of caution though. If brake is dragging hard, it can get things pretty hot. So approach hubs with caution.

Wondering on that myself. Kinda thinking it's a bit of over-engineering on Subaru's part, but could be wrong on that. Can see where it would help stop the engine from wanting to pitch either up or down, when running the stock driveline set-up. But for those of us doing the T-case mod, we're not powering the front axles thru the tranny and therefore not putting that implied force on the engine. Been thinking of beefing-up the top-mounted pitch-bar and it's body mount area, and do away with lower one. Am I totally out-to-lunch on that thought trail???

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26269 Link to my post on doing this swap. Problem noted there-in with disty wires is 'cause I have the straight boots vs the angled boots for where the wires fit the disty cap. Thinking the angled boots will work better. She's running good now, still have issues with choke setting, but it's more due to ambient temp than anything else. Back when I 1st bought the Weber, it was for the EA-82 engine that was in my '82 BRAT. When I installed the carb, I got out the grinder bits and blended all of the adapters to more closely match the manifold port. You may/may not, want to do that, regardless of what carb you use.

Other than what Tim said, I can't help you here. That is one mess of vac lines on a Soob, I get lost easily trying to chase them down. Another reason I went Weber myself.

Welcome to the Board!! Have to agree about pulling engine and doing a re-seal on it. Would take a good look at the clutch pack, and maybe change it while the engine is out. The hard shifting, and grinding into reverse, could be caused by the Pilot Bearing heading south on you. Or, it could just be the clutch needs adjusted, maybe install a new clutch cable as that one could be stretched enough that you can't adjust it, and it won't move the pressure plate enough to fully release the clutch disc.