TomRhere

Bought mine off of a now defunct web-site. Was for an Auto trannied 'Ru, $109.00 to my door. Only really matters if you have an Auto trannied vehicle. Other than that, a radiator is a radiator. More core sections are nice, but a new single row will out cool an old double row. With that said, if you have a Turboed model, get the bigger radiator, same with a model that's ACed. As far as I know there's only the Single and Double row models out there.

Thinking more towards 12ga., 00 meself............ But,,,,,,, that's just me.

Okay, I think I got the picture now. Was a bit confused as to all of the pieces/parts swapage thingy whatsit you were doing there. Hope you get a lot of mileage out of that clutch, 'specially after all the work you went thru.

One other thing to try. Push in on the release handle, then pull it. I've had to do that with all the BRATs I had here. Maybe not all of the time, but more times than not. Really don't know why it works when I do that, but it does.......

Real curious here as to why you're not using the clutch parts I gave you. They should've worked with your flywheel and tranny setup. They may have some miles on them, but I know the clutch didn't slip at all when it was in the XT-6.

When I 1st put the Weber on the EA-82 engine that was in my '82 BRAT, I left that Black plastic spacer on the manifold. I even got out some grinder bits, and made everything smooth and even in the area of carb port. Now, I have that intake and Weber on the EA-81 in the '84 BRAT. Had issues with disty/choke clearence, and installed 2, 1/2" spacers under the Weber. Can't say forsure as to anymore power from all of those spacers. But,, the engine sure likes that Weber sitting on top of it. Eons ago, I had a Chevy small-block with factory dual-quad intake on it. Ran good and strong, but I wanted more... Installed a 10" Tunnel-Ram intake on it. Everthing else remained the same on the engine. Made one helluva improvement on performance of engine. So yes, longer intake ports will boost engine power.

Kinda difficult to answer that question, really. Lot depends on the "not much, just a little" part. Hyrdo lifters are somewhat forgiving in the sense that they will self-adjust some. So,, maybe you lucked out, and didn't tweak them too much. On the other hand, you could've got one or two to tight, which would lead to a valve not closing properly, and/or not opening fully. That would be evident by a miss, or loss of power. A compression check would point out an open valve. Just my .02 there.... The only reason I adjusted mine, was due to me swapping heads on the engine. Just figured it was the right thing to do. In the midst of doing the swap, my brain went on vacation without me. I adjusted the lifters as if they were solids. Then, after realizing my mistake, I readsjusted them by proper method for hydro lifters, but still managed to do something wrong. Took me a total of 3 tries to get it right, atleast I hope they're right. Seems to be running good, and there is no TOD from the engine.

Not to cause you any great anxiety, but turning a carb up-side-down, is never a good idea. Me thinks you may have gotten some yuck into one of the internal passages myself. You may be able to blast it out with some carb cleaner, may not. But I would atleast pull carb off engine, and try to blow some thru all passages.

Quieter engine, and less tune-up work. With solid lifters, there's somewhat of a "normal" "Tick-Of-Death" (TOD), that really shouldn't be there with hydro lifters. Plus, you do need to adjust them from time to time. Eons ago, lot of performance engine builders preferred the solids over the hydros. Reason being was a supposed power increase of solids over hydro, but that really was never proven out. Do know that just pulling the rocker covers on a EA-81 won't tell you whether they're solids or not, as both have adjusters on them. And you really can cause yourself much more work by assuming that they are solids, and adjust them accordingly. This I learned the hard way. Been fighting with them for awhile now, but me thinks I finally got it right. This was on the '84 BRAT in the sig.....

Stay out of Butler, Indiana with it........... I'll be there this year. Will either have the '84, or the '86 BRAT. Seriously doubt if I'll have the '82 anywhere near close to started on, let alone finished by then. (I need a different job, one where I have a life outside of it.)

Roobaflu, and Miles, just left my place about 20 minutes ago. He now has in his possesion a good PP, CD, and TO bearing to fix his Hatch with. I think he be a "Happy Camper" now.

Whoa, whoa, whoa!!!! Slow down there abit Vincent. All is not lost yet. That Sedan that you and Miles towed up here has a 2WD 5 speed in it. The clutch is bad, but the pilot bearing should be okay. I also have a couple other EA-82 type flywheels here, with pilot bearings in them. I also have the clutch assembly off of the ER-27 sitting here. You won't get the flywheel, but the clutch pack is good. I had the XT-6 running before I parted it out, clutch no slip at all during the wail-on-it test drive I took in it. I'm putting all new clutch parts in when I ever get the chance to work on it somemore, so I won't be needing these. Parts are yours, just get yourself up here, or give me directions to your place and I could bring them down. If you come up, call my cell first, just to be sure I'm around 517-425-4384

Roobaflu and I have been talking thru emails on this. Seems the pilot bearing is "stuck" on the end of the input shaft of the tranny. He had to remove all of the PP bolts in-order to drop tranny out. Pilot bearing won't fit thru splines of clutch disc.

'Cause Mom, it's in the blood, and it's a Subaru!!!!

Why do you "have to use" the EA-81 outters? Is it do to the over-all length of the whole assembly? IE: EA-81 outters are shorter than the EA-82 outters? You using the EA-81, or EA-82 knuckles here, and if the EA-82 ones, why? Just trying to get the full picture here is reason for all the questions. Not 100% on this.. But, I'm thinking you could purchase a tapered ream to enlarge the hole in the knuckle for the EA-81 outter. (I do know you can get one for Detroit Iron, actually, there's 2 different tapers for them that I know of.) But it's something to look into. Miles has used various sizes of drill bits to step-taper the hole, but I don't think I really like that idea, myself. Or, if it's due to the tie-rod itself being to long. Maybe you could get a thread die, cut the rod down, and re-thread it. I do know that's been done in the past. I'll be using the EA-82 suspension under my '82, myself. But I'll be using everything from the EA-82, engine cross-member, steering components, knucles, ect., ect.. It will all be incorperated into the lift I'm building. I'm doing so 'cause I want the wider stance under the BRAT. If you do go back to the 2WD stuff under the front, I have a steering shaft here, from an '86 BRAT. Just have to figure out how to get it to you, faster than mailing it. Miles may be up here to my place today, or tomorrow. I can send it out with him... Otherwise, email me your street addy, and I'll toss it in the mail after work tomorrow. And I agree with the others that said so. The extra 1-1/2" in the rear won't look all that bad. Above all,,,,, Take it easy!!! Bum ticker ain't no picnic. Got one of those myself. Usually good to go, but there are times that it wants to get finicky. Hasn't put me in the hospital in a while though, (knocks on wood).

I just flush them out good, then hang them from a nail, either on the wall or from a rafter in the garage. Oh! I do tape-over the hose fittings though. Keeps pests from calling it home.

Remember reading of guys using the EA-82 style one on thier lifted rigs. It has 2 u-joints in it. Just cut between joints and add-in X length of tubing to fit your needs.

Truly a sad sight!! Hope she's okay...............

I learned to drive with vehicles that were manual choke, as I'm sure there are other members here that did as well. It just takes a little bit of finesse with choke position/engine speed is all. Very doable on a Manual tranny, but it truly sucks on an Auto tranny. I've converted many a car to manual choke vs auto choke, just 'cause choke system was FUBAR. Jim, I will get out to the garage and see if I can tell what/where that loose linkage arm goes to. Will be in the AM though. Send you email on findings.

It's okay to re-use the axle nuts on our 'Ru's, (as long as the threads are good), as they are held in place by the cotter pin. Not a good idea to re-use axle nuts on other makes of vehicles, as they are a "lock-nut", and designed for one-time use only. I've bought 4 replacement axles over the time I've had the BRATs. Got new nut with a couple, but no roll-pin, or cotter pin ever. Replacement nuts can be purchased from your local parts store, along with the roll-pin, and cotter pin. One otherthing you want to check on your "new axle" is the length of it to the old one. I had it happen to me once, they sold me an EA-82 axle instead of the EA-81 axle. Tad bit on the long side it was......

Got a couple pics here I can email to you. Not sure if they'll show you what you want to see though. Maybe go with a manual choke set-up on it instead????

I place my small floor jack under the frame-rails of the BRATs to lift them from the side. It's also where I place the jack stands. If you want to lift both front or rear wheels off the ground. Place jack under engine crossmember, (along with a chunk of 4X4), or under the rear diff. Now with that said, not to sure how one would raise both rear tires on a 2WD 'Ru. Haven't had the chance to be under one of those, yet. Got one coming though......

I'm in, just waiting for date to be set. I'll be there with one of the BRATs....

Same here, when I got my 1st Subaru, the now departed '86 BRAT. I was like, WTF!?!?!

Who needs a tent when you have BRAT with Topper