TomRhere

2 things that came to mind when reading you original posting, both are related to each other in a sense. 1. High idle speed when cold = vacuum leak?? Whether carbed or Fi, engine gets more fuel when cold, add more air via vacuum leak, you get higher idle speed. 2. Brakes are harder to apply = vacuum booster not working properly?? Vacuum leak will affect brake booster, 'specially a big leak. Would look at all hoses as previously stated, 'specially the larger ones, and one going to booster can. If nothing found on hoses, remove and plug hose going to booster can, see if idle changes. If more normal, booster is fubar.... As in possible blown diaphram, causing vacuum leak, and no power brakes. Quick test for bad booster: Engine off, pump brake pedal atleast 6 times, hold foot on pedal and start engine. Pedal should "fall away" from your foot after engine starts. If it don't, booster is fubar.....

When re-doing, or adding for that matter, the ground wires on your vehicle. Make a trip to your local hardware store first. Get some star-lock washers to use on the bolts, one below terminal, one above terminal, under bolt head. Star-lock washers have multiple teeth on them ( sorta like ////// all the way around), and will bite-in better, giving a better contact. Words of wisdom passed down to me by an Automotive Electrical Guru.

Had, a carbed EA-82 in my '82 BRAT. Ran fairly good up to the time the Hitachi started to go south on me. Swapped on a Weber, Super Stock coil/wires, fabbed a 2" true dual exhaust for it. Won't say she was super fast, or anything after all of that. Can't say if I lost any low-end grunt, by going 2" on the exhaust. Was the only EA-82 I've ever drove, so.... Can say, she'd run up thru the gears real good, sounded good doing it too. Could cruise down the hiway at 75-80mph with no problems, and could accelerate more at those speeds. Did have the speedometer needle pegged, and tach needle still climbing once. How fast I was going, don't know that... Got 31 mpg on last road trip in her. Consensis on the exhaust is 1-7/8" lead pipes back to the "Y", (thinking I read 26-1/2" on length somewhere), 2" to the cat (if needed where you live), then 2-1/2" the rest of the way, with a free-flowing muffler. This will help maintain your low-end torque, while freeing up the engines breathing. I went 2" all the way, just because the pipes matched the ports on the heads, and EMT conduit, doesn't come in 1-7/8" size. Conduit was free, so I used it. Used Xcellerator Turbo mufflers, but Glasspacks, FlowMasters, or other performance mufflers will work, your choice there. On the coil, you're looking at the High Voltage output. Say a stock coil is 25,000 volts, 35,000 would be better, 50,000 is really much better. Need to have plug wires that will handle the higher voltage, and open the gap of the plugs to .045-.050 range.

Wagon looks good.......:cool: Engine no look so good..... Seen simular damage on a 'Yota engine, the head actually, total wash-out between adjoining cylinders from owner driving it for over 6 months with blown head gasket. (no comments will be made on this former significant other) Amazing what damage can be done from compressed air, ain't it??

Some of us that's done this conversion, have had to use a Fuel Pressure Regulator, in the supply line to the carb, and there's some out there that don't need one. Don't know why that is.... Difference in fuel pumps maybe???? Sounds like you need one, about $20. Ran mine on the 4.0 setting, which is just about full open, but that's what the engine wanted. At the 3.5 setting, it would basically run outta gas if I ran her up thru the gears hard, and I liked doing that.... Last long road trip in it, got 31mpg, '82 BRAT, EA-82 engine, 4spd D/R trans, 2" dual exhaust, stock tire size.

Quick fix for the fuel pump power. Was posted by another Member here also. Get the oil pressure switch for an early/mid '70's GM product, Vega, Monza, Starfire, ect... These had electric pumps, powered thru the oil pressure switch. No OP, no gas. Got the part number here some durn place, used one on my '82 to solve pump power feed problem. Switch has 3 tabs on it, 1 for oil light, other 2 were for fuel pump. Good buy on the BRAT, even with tire dent. Thinking I would've side-stepped that tire myself.

Can not for the life of me find the web site I read it on, it had to do with Soob motors in airplanes. Anyways, thinking I read on there that 26-1/2" on the lead pipe length before they hit the Y. Maybe it was 29-1/2". Was one or the other though. Sorry couldn't be of more help.

Not real sure of the actual PSI of the system, but an AT tranny cooler should be just the ticket for you. Would put it the return line, and in-front of the radiator for best cooling. Would only need some hose and a couple of clamps to do install, other than actual mounting of cooler. But any air flow would be benefical. Ford used to just have a looped line sitting behind the fan for PS cooling, mounted right on the PS pump. Later, they added some fins to the loop, but it wasn't all that much really.

Not sure on your car, but on the BRATs, the air intake is about dead center in front of you, in the wiper cowl, as you're setting in the passenger seat. Quite possible that the blow-by fumes are being sucked in there. Check the rubber seal along the top of the firewall, it should seal against the hood when shut, to help eliminate that problem. As for the PCV system, sounds like the hoses, and/or the engine covers are blocked with crud. These things happen.. Would pull all of the hoses off, clean them out. Maybe even pull the cam covers off and do them too. Unless your rings are totally shot, you shouldn't get a lot of blow-by out of the oil fill cap otherwise.

http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/retrofitting_the_weber_dgav_32.htm

Going by your pics, and looking up at lines, they go as follows; #1. small line = no problemo #2. runs with small line to top of tank, where larger line is #3. it runs to the line that goes around to the frontside of tank

D'OH!!! Knew there was something I was to do after work. Give me afew, and I'll post back with info.

What shifter, and driveshaft do you need? Got the shifter out of the XT-6 here, got a couple of driveshafts laying around too. Think ones from the 6 also. I know you can stuff a wagon full of parts. Seen that when you picked up all of your stuff from the XT-6. Front seats, front suspension, rear suspension, all 5 tires with rims, did I forget anything? Of course, you didn't have 2 other bodies to get in there too at the time.

Drop the driveshaft out, and look at the splines of the yoke that goes into the tranny. While not a common thing, I have seen them strip out before. Usually caused by the front u-joint being siezed, or way overly stiff. Causes yoke to wobble slightly on output shaft, eating away at the splines in the front yoke. Seen same thing happen in the slip-joint of 2-piece driveshafts, too.

One filter is at the fuel pump, has 1 in and 1 out. Other one is under hood, by the Master Cylinder. Has 3 lines, 1 in from pump, 1 out to carb, 1 small line on top that's a return to tank line.

I'll take a look/see under both of mine, after work today (3pm). Try to do a pic of them too.

As Tim said, no one set of numbers for doing the Weber swap. But info here http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/retrofitting_the_weber_dgav_32.htm Might help you get a grip on things..........

Can't help on the AC swap stuff really, but thinking the main harness should have it in there, just plug in the parts you take off donor. Don't quote me on that though. On the T-belt idlers; Been a few of us try making our own, me included. Just to let you know, wasn't to much success doing it. But wishing you luck on yours.

What color interior on the BRAT? Looking for some trim pieces here.

One of the Auto Mags I used to get had a nice write-up in it on "Under the Hood" cooking. Can't 'member which Mag it was, been afew eons ago. But you wrapped up the viddles in 'luminum foil, stuck it on the exhaust manifold, did your trip, chow down.

I did not do the engine swap, but I did pull the engine, and do a re-seal on it. Same, or close to doing the swap. This is on/in an '82 BRAT, which still has the D/R 4 Spd tranny. Upon re-installing the engine, I found that the disty should be left out, and re-installed afterwards. The Hill-Holder, (ifin you have one), should be moved rearwards the distance of the mounting holes for it. And you need to tweak the front most lines on the Master Cylinder. Being very carefull, not to kink them.... (edited in)> Or, you can use another "T" block and just remove the HH completely. Be sure to fab a bracket to secure the "T's" if you do this. The wires to the disty need to be lengthened, or you will need to move the coil to the Driver's side of the engine. That involves more wiring mods, than just lenghtening the disty wires. Upon installing the engine, you'll want to leave the motor mounts loose at the engine block. This will help to get the studs into the slots in the crosmember. You can then tighten the mounts to the engine. Before you tighten the mounts to the crossmember, be sure to check that the engine is centered between the frame-rails. It will be close, not much more than a 1/4" per side. The Vacuum Advance unit on the Disty will hit the Master Cylinder, if you try to go past halfway of the slot for the lock-down bolt. This really doesn't seem to be of any concern, as mine is still in the forward half of the slot. I'm setting Ignition timing by ear, due to the next paragraph... (edited in)> Has been stated that the Auto trans Master Cylinder is shorter, I don't know for sure... Please, save yourself, and/or the next owner some headaches. Use the EA-82's flywheel!!!! It has the T-belt timing marks, and the Ignition timing marks are not in the same position, either. You can transfer the marks over to the EA-81 flywheel, But Why??!?!?? Just use the EA-81's clutch disc, pilot and throw-out bearing, ifin you're using the 4 Spd, while using the EA-82's flywheel and pressure plate. My radiator support has been re-drilled to fit the EA-82's radiator's upper mounting points. Other than that, the hoses, and thermo-switch for the fan(s) are the same. The radiator cap, appears to be in a different locale, but it ain't no biggy. The radiator hoses are trimmed to fit their respective runs.... (edited in)> There is, a difference in the bottom mount points for the EA-82 radiator, but the holes can be drilled into the radiator support to match. Ifin you have the waterpump mounted fan on your EA-82, you may want to leave it off. There is only 1/4" to 3/8" between it and the radiator. Makes me nervous!!!!!! The originator of this swap in my BRAT, shortened the housing for the accelerator cable, then lengthened the cable itself. Why, I don't know. Made the Weber swap that much more fun. NOT!!! Addendum; As for going with a SPFI?MPFI set-up, you'll need to swap-out the fuel pumps, and the front filter. Best really to re-run all fuel lines too, as the FI system is higher pressure than carbed. Best to have "donor vehicle" near you. You will need to pull the ECU and it's wiring from it. My take on this would be to start at the ECU end of the FI harness, and disect the wires out for the ECU. Make sure to tag what goes where, makes life more enjoyable upon installation. This will allow the other systems of the vehicle to operate off the original wiring, and the engine off it's own. Will make for easier trouble-shooting in the future. If you're using the 5spd tranny, the mounts/crossmember for it is different than the 4spd one. Jerry (bratsrus1) makes a kit for installing it. His kit reworks the 2 mounts/crossmembers into one, and reworks the shifters so they look stock. Think that about covers it...............Whew!!!

I've ran solid mounts on some High HP vehicles in the past. Vibration in the car is/was very noticable on many of them. Enough so, that I had to continuously re-tighten the screws in the dash panels, on one of the cars. On that particular car, I re-did the solids to lengthen the studs, to allow for 2 rubber washers, made from a junk tire's sidewall. One between engine's mount piece and frame bracket, and one between frame bracket and the washer above the mount stud's nut. Helped abit, but didn't eliminate all of the vibration. Good idea there. Another way to stop engine twisting, is to use a length of all-thread, with the rubbers, washers, nut set-up on each end, like you find on shock assorbers. Need a bracket on the engine end, and a relitively close hole thru frame or crossmember. Done this one myself, and allows you to adjust hold-down for some engine movement, (but not to much there). Also, with some movement, it helps to lessen the vibrations, while keeping engine where it supposed to be. To tight, and you have major vibration happening. Had engine basically just sitting on a piece of rubber between the mount brackets. Got tired of replacing mounts after a good night of 1/4 mile runs. 500+ ponies. 3500 # vehicle, side-stepping clutch pedal @ 5500 RPM, somethings gotta give.

VIN is stamped into firewall, just to the left of the spare tire area, as yo're looking at it from in front of BRAT. As for re-titling one good from two bad, depends on State your in, as it varies quite abit.

Could just put drill bit into the one tapped hole, and wrap tape around it to mark depth. Then drill out other 2 holes, stopping at the tape.

I was looking into this for bobbrumby when my DMM died on me. Still waiting for it to be repaired, or the shop to buy me a new one. All 3 of the BRATS had delay wipers. Believe switches are swappable. Found a relay in the circuit, just to the right of the fuse box, that could be the delay unit. Was at this point my meter died, so I didn't get any further in the investigation.