TomRhere

Loctite also has a porduct specifically for stripped threads, "Damaged Thread Repair", or something like that. Has stuff for in the hole, and a release agent for on the stud/bolt/nut, which can be removed and re-torqued after allowing full cure. And JB-Weld is good too, as Skip said. Have used Heli-Coils in the past, but they can lock onto the bolt as well as the threads of the hole, making removal darn near impossible. Which is a good thing for a stud, I guess. Never heard of Timeserts myself, either. Curious here on them..........

Can be done with engine in car, but would be easier to do with engine out of car.

Mine all run just below the 1/2 mark. New radiators, T-sats, hoses, coolant in all.

Going "full custom" on my '82 BRAT. 12" lift, ER-27/DR 5 spd, 'Yota T-case, 31" tires on 6-lug 'Yota rims, EA-82 power steering set up, yada, yada, yada. May even go 33", local tire shop has a set of slightly used ones for sale. Less than 100 miles om them. Man, they look huge though... Been considering on moving the front suspension forward, and mounting the ER-27 more rearward, (have to see how that'll fit yet). Wanting to create room up-front for radiator, is reason for moving engine back. May have to raise engine up abit to clear crossmember, dunt know on that yet. If not, maybe see what I can do on rear mounted radiator. Another thread gave me that idea.......... Hmmm, inside of tailgate maybe??!!?? Also thinking on "Double A-arm" suspension with coil-over shocks, doing away with strut assembly. Run EA-82 axles, and get a wider stance out front. May re-do rear suspension, and use EA-82 axles there too. Wider is good for stability. Although, Scott says his is "good to go" on the normal stance with the bigger tires. She'll be an off-road vehicle, but want to drive her on the paved roads too. Son really likes riding in the back seats. All I need is time "off work" to get busy wrenching on it. I be liking how this thread is turning. Keep the ideas coming................

The '84's got one, sits in PS of engine block. Haven't checked it out yet, but I'm a planning to.

Can't say for sure on the "mm" size. I have a 3/4" socket set here, and just grab the one that fits the best. Usually, they're the larger size, (which I can't re-call right now), but sometimes find a smaller one. Yet to find one 30mm though, I have that socket here..

Awwwww, come on now. Just DO IT!!!!

You gotta good 'un there. Best do things nessecary to keep her!! Good to have someone that supports your hobbies. Glad mine has the BRAT fever too. She won't give me "free reins" on buying things, but she fits things into the budget for me. Gotta Love Her for that................ I do............ Just told me over last weekend, that she figures we'll have enough to do the 40' - X - 80' pole barn, come spring. Now, that will be a place to do some serious 'Ru wrenching in. She even hinted at afew amenities for in it, also. Gotta Love this woman............................................................................

Was down to Jim's (86subaru) last Saturday. Picked up some steering parts from him of the XT he was scrapping out. Asked about the wiring harness, seems no one wanted it, so,,, I started eye-balling the heck out of it. Found the Diode, kinda where I thought it would be, but wasn't real sure on it. It's located on the Main Wiring Harness, right where it makes the L-R split over the tranny tunnel, under the dash. Little 2 wire connector and Diode, both White, just taped to the outside of the harness. Yet 1 more puzzle piece found. A couple more pieces, and it'll be time to start wrenching on this puppy. Yeah Right!! Working 60 - 70 + hours a week, don't leave much time for wrenching. They just posted today, "Manditory Weekend". Sucks!!!!!!!!!! Worked Mo., Tu., We., and have 38 hours in already this week. Starting to rant, better quit now..................

When I shift mine, er I mean Her's, into 4WD, there is just barely a noticable, ummm, bump I guess you'd call it. Kinda feel it more by the seat of the pants thing than anything else. Wife can't tell when it shifts into or out of 4WD, niether could a friend that road in it once. Find some loose gravel or sand to test it on. Push the button, nail go-pedal. If just the fronts spin, it ain't a working.

Probally was just a smidge of corrosion on the connection(s) that you played around with. It don't take much sometimes, 'specially on a high amp draw component such as a starter. Just loosening/retightening the bolt/nut will sometimes cure the problem.

Those "extra" holes are there for ease of casting the head, and or block. If the matching hole ain't in the gasket, don't put it there.

I agree with that statement, totally. Stripped out many a car in my days, and scrapping out the '86, really gave me some "insight" to these here Subaru's, as to how things are put together.

IIRC, there's 3 bolts/nuts that hold the housing in. 1 below, and 2 above, behind the glove box. It's still somewhat of a sruggle to get it past the lower edge of the dash though, but it can be done. Went thru the very same thing on all 3 of my BRATs. Used Murphy's Oil Soap to wash everything down with. Helped out alot, but still took sometime to get all the odor gone.

I use a block of aluminum against the axleshaft end for whammering the axle out of the hub. On the lower ball-joint removal for the axle removal. There's a pinch-bolt on the knuckle that holds the ball-joint cup. Just remove the bolt, and insert a fat bladed screwdriver in the slot to wedge it open. Then put a strong bar or shovel handle across the reaction rod and under the engine crossmember, right about where the E-brake cable support bracket is, pry down to release the ball-joint. Turn the steering wheel towards the side that you're working on. This will give you enough free room to get knuckle assembly free from axle. Recommend re-torquing the axle nut after about 100 miles of driving. Sometimes, things just don't seat right on assembly and it'll loosen up after a bit. I've replaced wheel bearings both using a press and on my garage floor with punch and hammer. Easier for me to use punch and hammer method.

If you get the car, and plan to do mods to it, be sure to have yourself another daily driver. Mods can run into problems, and leave you with a vehicle sitting on jackstands. Which even for a day, could cause you a problem if you can't get to work. I have 95% of the needed things to do a 12" lift, ER-27 & D/R 5spd, Nissan T-case, 'Yota 15" rims, yada, yada, yada. The problem here is, hardly any time to work on the thing. Pulled the engine and tranny back in April this year. BRAT's still sitting in the garage on jackstands. I've dropped the front suspension since then, and got the interior pretty much gutted, (rust repair and Rhino-lining there). But that's just about it. The Company I work for, has kicked into full blown, (Turboed with NOS even), production. I've been putting in 60 - 70 + a week, and I'm "on-call", 24/7. Don't leave much time for exta-carricular(sp) activities. Wasn't in the plans when I started this endeavor, so I have to work around it. Also have Family members wanting me to wrench on their vehicles. They come before me.

I totally agree with the previous statements. Preventive Maintenance is the key to longevity of anything mechanical. You have to spend money to save money. I'm sure y'all's heard that before.. One of the guys from Ram Performance is on the Yahoo BRAT Club site. I've scoped out their site afew times. Good for a . Can't afford to buy anything from them at this time, but it's nice to dream.

YO FOX!!! Just a small get together at Jim's place this Saturday, (not aturday as stated above). Some fix-it wrenching, some scrap-it wrenching. May have buyer for his BRAT with me too. BE THERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22192 'Nuff said in that post, but that's just my opinion. Didn't take me no 2-3 hours doing my 1st T-belts. And I had to re-time them due to former owner using the wrong flywheel on the engine, hence no T-belt timing marks. Really ain't that hard of a job, even with all of the creature comfort devices installed on certain models. IE; power steering, air conditioning, so on and so forth.

Tip given to me from the Owner of a Tranny Rebuild Shop: "Pour a bottle of Gum-Out fuel system cleaner, (a small one), in the Tranny. If it starts working right, do a flush, filter and fluid change. If it don't do anything different, your tranny is on it's way out. Won't hurt it anymore to leave the Gum-Out in it. No actual proof, but it just may help it last longer." I've done it on a few trannies, the 3 F's were indicated on most, but a couple it didn't matter. Did make them work abit better, but not quite right. Drove a couple of those until they went, then did the swap.

Can't say much on the fitment issue into your vehicle. But I can tell you that you need 17-1/2" from the engine mount hole in the crossmember forward to the crossbar of the radiator support. Actually, you'll need more thatn that, 17-1/2" is the measurement from the mount stud of the mount to the front edge of the crank pulley. So you'll need atleast 18-19", just to make changing the Alt belt abit easier.

Paid $300.00 for mine, shipping included from WVa. Didn't get driveshafts, but did get shifter. Was lucky that trogdor stuubed his toe on it, otherwise, who knows where I'da found one, or what I'da paid. Not to many around here in the yards that I could find.

This the same Cameron that is/was the camncath site? Ifso, welcome back, man. Read of your health problems from then, (awhile back). Glad to see you back amougnst us.

Spoken like a true "Hot-Rodder".... I have this, and that, some of this, some of that. I don't care ifin y'al dun't like it! This is my dream, my ambition, so there............ Wish you thew best on it............................................................

Sounds good at this end also. But, I'm think'g more along the lines of a Grade 5 bolt/stud instead of Grade 8. Reason being is, 8's are strong for sure, but they don't take the side impact as well as a 5 would. They, (8's), are a harder bolt/stud, good for linear stength, but they'll shear sideways at lower impact force, than what a 5 would. 8's are good for "Mega-torque" applications were linear stength is needed. 5's are a good all-around hardened bolt for toughness.