TomRhere

If I didn't have to do these 70+ hour work weeks, I'd have more time to look at things. This is what I have sofar after pulling a 12 hour shift Friday. Would have posted it sooner, but did a 18 hour shift Saturday. I'm a whooped puppy....... '82 BRAT GL with intermitant wipers..... Switch side - Vehicle harness side Blue/white - Blue/white Green - Green Yellow - Yellow Blue/red - Blue/red Red - Green/white (fuse box feed) Blue - Red As I was chasing the wires down thru the harness, my multimeter died on me, so I have to get my other one from work to go futher. Did find a squarish relay next to the fuse box that's tied into the wiper circuit. Could be the delay relay. Here's it's connector; Green/white Black White Blue If I can manage to sneek in/out of the shop to get my meter without being seen today, I'll do somemore tracing of the circuit. Don't want to be seen in the building, they'll want me to work. Then again, they could calll me in today also.....

Haven't forgot about you, just haven't had time to look yet. Sounds lame, I know, but it's just way hecktic at this end lately. Will try to do it after work tomorrow, and post back. Tom

I have the dash out of my '82 at the moment. I'll try to remember to take a look at things and post back a bit later with what I find.

You are turning more gears and such being in 4WD, so abit more drag is feasible. Drove my '82 around like that for a couple months, kinda liked it 'cept when trying to do a fast get out ahead of everyone pulling out of a gas station or simular place. Just a tad bit light on the rear for to much go pedal:burnout:

My '82 BRAT has those same conectors and solenoids, no clue as to what they are for though. The vacuum line to them was plugged by the person that put the EA-82 engine in, engine ran fine without them. Just for the record, it was originally a California BRAT, and had factory AC, even had an ECU under the dash.

One wonders if this could be a FPCU related problem. It's a little box about the size of a deck of cards, locaed on the DS kick panel above and forward of the hood release handle. You may of caused the plug to loose contact while messing with the hood release. Just a thought is all, and I'm going from what I know on my BRATs. You should hear the pump run for a second or two when you turn the key to the "on" position, if not, that's the 1st thing I'd check.

http://www.nationalcarburetor.com/cat-subaru.html Sounds like a good price to me for a stock replacement. http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/tayco/wizard.jsp?partner=tayco&clientid=alloem&baseurl=http://www.alloemautoparts.com/&cookieid=1B813E7PQ&year=1984&make=SU&model=BRT-4WD-002&category=E&part=Fuel+Filter http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/tayco/wizard.jsp?partner=tayco&clientid=alloem&baseurl=http://www.alloemautoparts.com/&cookieid=1B813E7PQ&year=1984&make=SU&model=BRT-4WD-002&category=E&part=Fuel+Separator http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/tayco/wizard.jsp?partner=tayco&clientid=alloem&baseurl=http://www.alloemautoparts.com/&cookieid=1B813P05O&year=1984&make=SU&model=BRT-4WD-002&category=G&part=Radiator If those 3 links don't work for you, just go to here, www.alloemautoparts.com and put in the info on your vehicle.

Same problem here when I did the re-seal on my EA-82. Those things were staying put...... But I put up a good fight, and finally managed to get them off by using a flat prybar in behind them. A little carefull persuasion, while properly talking to them, and they finally came off. I did have to coax them all of the way though. A bit of Anti-Sieze on the crank before re-assembly is advised.

1st thing to try is to re-tighten the axle nut. Can't explain why, but I've had them "loosen up" after a few miles of driving, after an axle swap. Maybe it's just everything settling in, don't know. Ifin that don't get rid of the noise and vibration, then it's the wheel bearings.

In my experience of working on "other makes" of vehicles, a vacuum leak would be the 1st thing to rule out. Any leak would basically keep it from working, and for sure wouldn't cause it to be so erratic. Best guess would be something amiss in the control switch and/or it's wiring, as in a shorting of juice across the circuits there in. Would look there first, then start checking the rest of the system out. The speed sensor could be culprit, but they usually just plain die. No clue as to locale of control unit really, but thinking it's under the dash to the right of the steering column, above where the ECU is/would be. Think I read that somewhere.

You may want to pull the fuseable link box loose from the inner-fender and actually check the connections underneath it. I had one break off on my '86. To look at it, looked ok, but it had serious corrosion problems there, and one feed had broke.

Okay, I got you BB. I hear you on the headache part............... Think I need another beer now. Ifin my set-up works out, I sure will post on it so others can atleast look it over.

NASCAR is doing Watkins Glen this weekend, Road course action. I loves it, wish they did more. So now they do have to do the right turn stuff. And still, it's loose here, tight there, pushing here. On another note.... I used to do some road coursing myself many moons ago when I was a much younger puppy. Always the family ride that Dad had at the time, but I could drive it, good. Never gave any thought to different tire pressures or spring rates, front-end geometry, what not. Just a stock car, doing the Esses.............. Have I kinda Jacked this post? Ifso, I appologize......................................

Okay, just so we're talking the same terminology here. You're talking about the rod that goes from the lower arm, back towards the tranny mount right? Ifso, thats more commonly known as a reaction rod, but has many names too. The arm from the engine c'member out to the ball-joint is the control arm. It would be an "A"-arm, or wishbone if it had 2 inner mount points instead of one. We on the same plane of thought here now??? I'm deep into thoughts and design of eliminating the strut itself, and going with an "A"-arm on the top, with a coil-over shock setup. Just don't like the idea of fabbing a bracket for the strut to keep proper camber angles while going with a 10" or more lift. But that's just me..., and I'm doing the same thing you are, or simular to it. Nissan T-case, 10"-12" lift, Yota 6-lug rims, ER-27 W/DR-5spd, 4.11 Diffs at both ends. The Mods list keeps growing as things become, "available", to me. Think I'm calling it quits at a 31" tall tire though..................

This is where I get all cornfuzed. Just never got a "grip" on set-up of a vehicle. Really get confused watching the NASCAR races. "I'm tight in, and loose off". But the anouncer says just the opposite of what I'm thinking the driver is saying. Always think of being tight is; the car wants to turn to quickly, and loose as the back end wants to lead the car around the corner. Then they throw in the pushing bit, ??!?. Is that the understeer part? And tight being the oversteer part? Then they throw in the 1/2 pound of air in this tire, and raise/lower the track bar, do something with the "wedge"??!?, what ever that is, ... I'm lost.....

Looking good! I here you on the, "harder to do than one thinks" part. Took me most of a day to lay-out and fit my duals under the '82, and they are straight pipes for the most part. Of course, it would of been easier, ifin I had a chop-saw and welder here, instead of trips to work to cut/tack weld. On the O2 fitting, try a muffler shop, they have them, but not sure if they'd have any SS ones.

Wouldn't you need to "lock" one of the stubs motionless in order for power to be transmitted to the other one? Seems like you would have to, as the front diff is an open unit. But it is a good idea, using the front stub as a power take-off drive. Only other thing to consider is, when in 4WD mode, you're still driving the front stub axle. So it would have to be a unit that would handle sustained power applied to it. Just tought on that for a second. An air-operated clutch pack would work. Used them at the last job I had to bring in secondary functions on some of the machines we built. Air pressure applied, clutch engaged; air off, clutch free-wheels. Hmmmm, more ideas floating thru the brain now.

Just curious is all. Why the "V" bend? Wouldn't it be better to have it straighter behind the "Y", than that bend?

COOL! Oil that is. Black Gold, Texas Tea.

Just sent you money via pay-pal.

The '84 is an Auto, so no HH. Wish it were that easy though. Had to use the BRAT to go to work yesterday, brake was really dragging after the 2nd stop. Did maybe 10mph, floored. Not good!! Drove home okay, but I did my best not to touch the brake pedal. Pulled the knuckles out of the '82 to swap in to the '84. No problems there. Did the PS 1st on the '84. Man, what a pain. Everything fought me, both removing old, and installing the "new". But I whooped it. Still need to do DS, but it can wait a day or two. Atleast I have brakes that release now. What ever the problem is/was, it's in the caliper itself. Like I said in the 1st post, I've tore one of these things apart and put it back together. Total PITA!! Won't ever do that again. Anyways, the E-brake lever on the caliper is stuck, solid! Tried to wedge the caliper off, hoping I could salvage the pads. No go. Lots of good meat still on those pads, would like to save them, but it don't look good at the moment. Will bring bigger perswader(sp?) home from work today, and try it again. Still got the touch on swapping calipers out though. Did it with out having to bleed the system. Learned that little trick years ago, and can still do it. Gotta love that.

This is on the '84 BRAT. Been having problems with the PS front brake hanging. No one here will claim responsibility of pulling E-brake handle, but I know I didn't. Only thing I can think of as to why it's stuck on, is that the handle has been pulled. Had to fix a leaking tire on the PS front, and noticed that the lever on the caliper is forward about a 1/2" from where it should be, cable end is not in it's "normal" position on the lever, sticking out past the lever. Tried to convince the lever to return to home, but it won't budge. Any ideas on a quick fix, other than swap out caliper. I've tore one of these apart, (on the '86), and don't ever want to do that again, total PITA!!!! It will still go down the road, but not for to long, as the brake will get hot. So it's not totally locked up, just "on", enough you can feel a slight pulling in the steering wheel. Good thing I only live a 1/2 mile from work. Any help, thoughts, ideas will be greatly appreciated.

Need your e-mail addy, and I'll have the money on it's way.

That would of been me asking. Hmmm, right proud of those clutch kits, aren't they?? Be afew before I could afford to get it.

Actually, even Primer is porous enough to let the metal rust, if, you just use primer. As a "temporary" coating it's okay. Temporary meany 2 - 3 days maybe, some what dry weather. Worst Primer to use is the "sandable" type, it's even more porous. That said, it's still okay to use primer to cover bare metal while you're in the throngs of doing body repair(s). Just don't spray it on and expect the metal to be good to go 6 months down the road, 'cause it will be rusty. Primer itself, isn't a rust preventative, (even Rustoleum), it needs the top coat of paint over it to seal out moisture..