TomRhere

I'll take one of those. Shipping would be to 49242.

2LR = Blue/with Red tracer(stripe)

Congrats on the ride! 1st thing I would do is install new plugs, wires, cap & rotor. Then I'd replace the fuel & air filters. Would also put some good fuel system cleaner in the tank. I normally do all of that, plus hoses and belts, oil change, and whatnot whenever I get a "new" used vehicle. That way, I know when it was last done:) Checking for vacuum leaks is another good idea. Could be a faulty Coolant Temperature Sensor too, as it's giving the 'puter some faulty info on the actual temp of the engine.

Speed limit here in Mi., is 70, but not to many drive it, most are over, some way over it. Not to much in the way of steep grades like you guys have out in Wa., Or., atleast not on the Big roads. I've not had to much problems doing the speed limit with either of the BRATs, but, I haven't drove the '84 at 70 that much either. Some of the back roads may have some steeper grades to them, but still, nothing like you have out there. What Colledge you going to?

Welcome to the Board! Timing belts should be changed at 60,000 mile intervals, if your car had proper service done, you should be good for a few more miles yet. Now, if you decide to change them anyways, you should atleast change the front crank seal, cam seals, either re-seal the oil pump or replace it with a new one, maybe even replace the water pump while you are in there. Also would change the o-ring on the inlet pipe to the water pump, and replace that 90* short length of hose that goes to the heater line, it is difficult to do with everything on the engine. As far as the timing belt tensioners and springs. The tensioners should spin freely, and you should not be able to feel any side-to-side movement in them. If they don't feel right, change them. http://www.all-foreign.com http://www.alloemautoparts.com You should be able to find most parts needed at either of those sites.

Another thing to check is your front brakes. Was driving the '84 yesterday, started do do a shake-n-shimmy after about 3 miles driving. Could feel it in the steering wheeel also. Got to my destination and started to check on things. The PS front brakes were hot, and they were making that noise of cooling off. About an hour later, I headed back to the house, no problems at first, but it started back up again about 2 miles down the road. Drove it on home, and same thing on the front. Now I have to swap out the caliper and rotor. Will inspect the bearings while I'm at it.

:slobber: Sure wish I had the cash, for either or both.

http://www.discountconverter.com/universals/index.htm Go there, they have dual in - dual out converters. 8012 is 2" in and out. 8015 is 2" in and out, but has O2 sensor fitting. Then build yourself a custom dual exhaust system, do a crossover/"H" pipe ifin you want to, to tie the sides together, not really needed though, with this converter set-up. Run some free-flowing mufflers of choice, and you should be good to go. Anything to free-up the breathing of the engine is good, for both economy and overall performance.

When this Accel coil stuff started to rear it's ugly head, I thought I would re-mount mine to the vertical instead of how it is "stock", still haven't done it. I'm just way curious as to cause of all these recent failures, just as the rest of us are.Really wondering if it may not be do to a voltage/current problem, rather than the actual coil being bad. Years gone by, I've had the opertunity to do work on some vehicles do to not starting. Starter would crank the engine over, just wouldn't fire off and run. Found problem to be in the coil, (this being the old points type ignition system). Cause seemed to stem from owner(s) having key in the "on" position to listen to radio instead of in the "ACC" position. This will lead to overheating of the coil, therefore it's early demise, IF, the points happen to be closed at the time. Not saying that this is the cause, or a "could be" type of situation, I know better than that. Just makes me wonder if atleast some of these coils, aren't seeing some type of over voltage/current some how. Then again, it could be.... Y'all just happened to get those late Friday, early Monday, off the assembly line coils. Don't know, just makes this one wonder is all.......................

Not that I know of, but I'm still looking. DNR has closed alot of the fun-spots around here, and up around the Jackson area.

I know I'd be interested in a tailgate skin, or door skins, or rocker panel sections, or wheel well patch skins, or, or, or................. Just curious as to total cost to get the stuff over here.

Try these people. http://www.alloemautoparts.com/

I asked this question myself awhile back. If your y-pipe is broke before the cat, it will definetly be backfiring. It's caused by the Air Suction Valve(s) and the rest of that system. It adds air to the exhaust system to aide the cat in doing it's job. With the leak, it just helps make noise. I took the y-pipe and cat off of mine and ran duals, had a double barrel shotgun going off each time I shifted. Plug the hoses coming off the breather, going to the ASV, and you'll be quieter.

I concur to the above statements. Had simular problem 'while back on a Chevy product. Would crank over, no start, 'cept on rare occasions as you let go of the key. Bad contacts in the ignition switch there. Another car, same senario, just different cause and effect. It was the main battery ground to engine wire that fried-off at the block connection. Car would crank over, (grounded thru small ground wire off battery) just woundn't start all the time, (jumping coil it did, but not by key switch). Took me awhile to find that one, may of had to do with the 12* temps and 30 mph winds at the time. Not to mention the 14" of white stuff I was standing/laying in.

Thinking the biggest "hassel", would be the mounting of the Clutch Master Cylinder. The Slave Cylinder mounting seems to be easy, by the look of it. Just need to fab a bracket, and end-of-rod pivot point for the Throw-out fork. Hydro clutches are basically self adjusting, but one needs to remember to shim the flywheel out , (from crank), to match whatever surface was removed at a resurface of flywheel. Atleast you have to do that on other hydro clutch vehicles, not sure if that would apply to the Subaru clutch set-up, (recessed friction disc). Hmmm?!?, food for thought.

Yep, Sad but True, it may be to far gone to save. Just don't count it out yet! I sacrificed a rusted-out '86 BRAT to http://www.alfaparts.net . They do custom made body panels for vehicles. Not sure yet as to when panels will be available to us, still waiting for Allen to set a time frame. Think I need to light a fire under his chair or something. Been awhile since I've heard from him. I sent them, the entire Driver's side from firewall back to just beyond the rear cab wall, (tranny tunnel to rocker), both rear wheel wells w/frame rails back to bumper mount area. Didn't have good enough rear quarters to send, but another guy I know has that from an '82 he's parted out. I have a door shell and tailgate to ship to them yet. You didn't say which Generation of BRAT yours is, but if it's a 2nd Gen, ('82-'87), you could be in luck. Just may take a bit to get panels. If, on the otherhand, it's a 1st Gen, ('77-'81), they don't have anything to go by to make panels. Now, if it's deemed that it's to far gone, and it is a 1st Gen, you need to send them peices and parts, so other 1st Gen owners can benefit from the sacrifice of a BRAT. Same goes for the rest of the Subaru body styles out there. If one gets put to rest, panels need to be sent in, so others can benefit. We need to help eachother out here, body panels are plain non-existant for the most part, 'specially on the "older" models. Okay, I'll get off the soap-box now...............

Well, Arch said "EA-81 vehicle, not nessecarily an EA-81 engine", so here's mine. Had the '82 BRATs speedo pegged, tach was still climbing albeit slowly. Never did max out the rpm's as I was quickly running out of straight road. Road was basically flat, small rises here and there. Don't recall wind direction/speed. Me, Wife, and Son on-board. This was after the Weber swap too.

DOJ = Double Offset Joint. The inner joint on the drive axle. CV(J) = Constant Velocity Joint. Outer joint on the drive axle. I've had a New Axle go belly up on me in less than 500 miles, so yep you could have a bad one there.

Looks good from here.

I wouldn't worry about finding another clutch fan, and just go with another electric one. May not be much, but the clutch fan eats horsepower, so eliminating it frees up a couple ponies atleast. My '82 had the clutch fan on it also. Didn't like the fact that it set 1/4" from the radiator, so I removed it. Have the electric fan for the AC system in there, just removed the control relay for it, and put it like a non-ACed Soob would be. No over heat problems on mine. But you may want to get a low-profile electric one and mount it where the clutch fan was, seeing as you're in Florida. Find a key "on" hot wire to power fan thru a switch and relay set-up.

No real differences in Insurance costs here for the 3 BRATs, other than a couple bucks for the difference in the years. Now the real problem was getting the out-State Titles, for the '82 and '84, swapped over to a Michigan Title, 'specially on the '82. Had the Title for the '86 with me, but Lady said "the year difference would make a difference on how they where classified". HUH?!!??!! Said they're both BRATS, a small pick-up truck, why would that make a difference due to years. Anyways, 45 minutes later, (to do 5 minutes work), I finally get the Title swapped over. Guess what, it's classified the same way as the '86 was, as a truck. Total waste of time. Simular story on the '84, but didn't take as long to convince the Lady, (different one), that it is a Subaru Truck. Now it won't matter anymore as to classification. If you use the truck for pleasure use, you get car plates. Use it for on the job, you get truck plates.

I know it's a bit late, but I just ran across this. Go to autospeed.com and click on the tech section. There's a 3-part series on purchase and use of a multimeter there. I haven't read thru it myself, but it should be some good info for those needing a multimeter.

Possibility here that all you will need to do is re-torque your axle nut. Been afew posts on here about having to do that, I have myself.

More thoughts/ideas on the problem, 1st, what does the smoke smell like? Coolant has a sweet smell to it, oil is kinda pungant, ATF will make your eyes water-up/burn a little. All look sorta whitish coming out of the tailpipe, but oil has a blue tint to it. 2nd, do a compression check when cold, then one after it warms up. May show which side is the culprit if it is a bad head or head gasket. 3rd, you said you squirted oil into the cylinders. That could be your problem with the smoke. Will take a bit to burn it off, 'specially if you put lots in there, as stated earlier. 4th, on the no want to idle syndrome. Does it start to slowly die down, or does it start missing and sputter to a stop? If it slowly dies down, could be plugged exhaust as stated earlier. Sputtering to a stop could be that it's starving for gas. You put new filter on it? Not real up on FI systems, but learning here. 5th, What was the reason to do the engine in the first place? If it was a junky motor, it could have filled the exhaust up with oil, water, what ever, and this could be part of the problem. 6th, check the torque on the intake to head bolts. Possible small leak coolant could be from there, and increasing as engine warms up. Like I said, just some thoughts/ideas/re-hashes, in no particular order.

Just visited your site and put myself on your list. I'll be getting a subscription as soon as they are available. I totally agree with others here, that it's about time something like this was done. A layout with 50/50 coverage of old/new Subarus, How To/Tech sections, Readers Rides, Classifieds, Meets/Events schedule, and of course, gotta have the "OOPS!" section.