TomRhere

My .02 here, I've done the front bearings on all 3 of the BRATs in my sig. Used a press the 1st time around on the '86. Just used a punch and whammer on the others. Reason being, it's just way time consuming trying to get the knuckle(s) set-up on the press so that everything is true and level for pressing the bearings in/out. Then you have to repeat the set-up 2 times for each side of each knuckle, once for removing, once for installing. As for removing the knuckle from the vehicle, I just back-off the tie-rod locknut, (just enough to release the rod end), and unscrew the rod end from the shaft. Then I undo the clamp bolts for the strut and ball-joint, and remove the knuckle. The axle is left on the tranny, and knocked out of the knuckle. Takes me about 45 minutes a knuckle, start to finish, using punch and whammer method vs over 3 hours for both sides using a press.

Don't forget to remove the door panels and flush-out the inards of the doors. Be sure to lube everything inside afterwards.

Where can one get key blanks from? No-one around these parts has any to fit the locks, and I'd like to get some new keys made.

WHOA! WHOA! WHOA! Copper for brake lines?????? NO NO NO!!!!!! Never Ever do that!!!!!!!! It may work for "normal" brake applications, but it won't stand-up to the pressures of a "panic-stop". You can generate over 2000# of line pressure in a panic-stop situation. Copper lines will not hold up to that. Besides, copper lines won't hold up to the vibrations of the vehicle going down the road. It will eventually fatigue and break, leaving you with no brakes again. Best to use steel lines, and just replace all of them, if you're having problems with them rusting. I know it's a pain, but it's safer that way. I've re-plumbed a few vehicles myself. I work as a Machinery Maintenance/Repair Tech, I know a thing or two about hydraulic systems.

Jim owns enough Subarus to keep you busy for a while. You'll have them all up and running good by the time you leave there. Sure wish I could put you up for a while here, I could use your assistance. Haven't laid a wrench on the '82 in over 2 months, at this rate it'll be next spring before I get it done. Just don't have the room right now, plus the Wife has been having her "power surges" (as a friend of ours calls them), lately. Not a good time to have anyone staying here.

Man, were you lucky! Could've ended a lot worse than it did. After you get done hosing out the car, invest in a few cans of electrical contact cleaner, spraydown every connection, switch, circuitboard, ect, ect, ect, add infintum.

Very well done!! Checked the website out, nice set of pics of the jump. I've caught some air myself, but nothing that high, 3 feet maybe, not no 6 feet.

I could use a set of those myself. You have a PM.

Me too. Me too. Me too!!

BRATs of course....The only Subaru vehicles I've owned Bought the '86 in 02-2002, the '82 in 12-2002, and the '84 in 12-2003. After driving all 3 of them, I have to say that the '82 is my most favorite one. Can't wait to get it back on the road, I miss driving it.

Would also suggest checking the battery cables themselves where they are connected, meaning the end terminals themselves. Have had a few over the years that were corroded inside of the terminals. Even had a couple pull right out of the battery terminal end, with a minimum tug on the cable. Just some thoughts....

Having the band adjusted to tight will cause you problems down the road. You'll either burn the band up, causing slippage, or it could break where the servo contacts it, then it don't work.

Bleed down refers to the ones that feel stiffer. Adjusting hydro lifters can be a real pain at times, atleast for me anyways. With the plugs out, you'll spin the engine fast enough to pump some oil pressure up. Also puts less strain on starter motor with plugs out. They don't like a whole lotta cranking, tends to get them a bit warm. To tight on the lifters ain't good. I'd rather have them a bit loose, and adjust them in after engine is running. But that is on "V" and "I" engines, haven't done a "H" engine yet, so not sure on how difficult it would be to adjust them with engine in car..

Yep, bad bearing. Fastest way to do it is get another knuckle from a yard, swap it in. Not to hard to change bearings, done it both on a press and on the garage floor. Actually easier on the floor I think. 1st time doing it, would say about 3-4 hours, start to finish. Don't want to rush on this job. Be sure you put the spacer ring between the bearings on re-assembly, otherwise you'll be popping a bearing back out to do so. Been there, done that.

Guess I'll be re-mounting the one in the '84 so it's upright. No want dead coil! Same goes for the one for the '82 when I get to that point.

Looks like fun was had by all, with a few exceptions. Wish I could've made it down, but my plans were changed by the Ruling member of the house. Steve, sorry I didn't meet up with you out on the road. Would've been there, but I didn't know you where driving over Friday night. Thought you were driving over on Saturday morning. Need to get down there and pick up my stuff that Steve and Jim brought for me.

He's also looking for a diagram (with picture) to wire up a DPDT switch to the light. Used to be one in the USRM, but it ain't there now. I have/had one here, but finding it seems to be a major undertaking in where the H is it. Still looking though. Anyone here have it for him?

No wiring diagrams here, so I can't say that this circuit, or that circuit gets power from here, or there. And I don't know much about your year. But the first thing I would do is check the fuseable links. Pull the box loose from the mounting bolts, and look at the underside of it also. I had a connection break-off under the box. To look at it, it looked good, but there was no connection there.

Sorry guys, won't make it on Saturday. Long story there in, can't post it here. Try to make it on Sunday

Sent Steve directions that are real easy to follow, ifin y'all are going to not stop at C'bus on the way to Butler, that is. Basically, you'll pick-up US-30 just West of Pittsburg, it goes clear across Ohio, where you'll get on US-127 North to US-6, where I'll be waiting for you, then we'll convoy into Butler. Less turns and road changes that way, easier for multiple vehicles to follow. See you Saturday.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16173 Knew it was here, but took time to find it, was back quite afew pages.

I likes it! My hat's off to you Guys for doing the Mod. Had same thoughts here for my '82, may still do it, may not, still trying to engineer out the front-end stuff. Adding a solid axle to a Subaru, does not, not make it a Subaru anymore than putting Pug rims on one would, and there's alot of them out there with Pugs on. Same for those out there with Non-Subaru intercoolers on them. When you want to improve on the performance of a vehicle, you have to make sacrafices sometimes. This is true in whatever venue you chose to operate the vehicle in. Subarus are quite capable vehicles in stock form, but they do have their limits, just like any other factory stock vehicle. Add in a few mods, and you can improve on the vehicle, a few more mods, maybe even better now. Some times, you have to think outside of the box. I likes that saying.......

Still in the engineering stages, along with the "I need this too" stage, but plans are; '82 BRAT GL, ER-27 engine, either DR-4 or DR-5 tranny, T-case mod, 6-lug rims, thinking an 8" but leaning towards a 10" lift (depends on tire size), Rhinoed interior and bed, custom air-gate (by soobme), custom bumpers (by yours truly), front/rear winch mount, on-board air, custom dual exhaust, and more things I have in mind, but haven't worked out the details of, yet. But I'm a working on it. Been real busy working on other peoples rides, and wrenching on farm equipment lately, but I'll have more time to devote to the BRAT after this week-end.

Sorry to hear about the XT, but glad to hear your Son is okay. Really should see Dr. about your neck. I have whip-lash myself from an accident many many moons ago. The longer it goes untreated, the worse off your going to be. Was many years with mine before I finally got treatment started, and it's basically to late to get my neck back to "normal".. Would suggest calling Insurance Agent, tell them about it, then go see DR.. Myself, I would go see a Chiropractor. Medical Dr's., mostly just want to prescribe drugs and therapy for spinal injuries, Chiropractors work on the problem itself. Whip-lash is a good "I'll sue" injury, 'specially if you really have it, and aren't trying to "fake it" as some try to. Sounds to me as if you do have it. Numbness and tingling are some of the early warning signs of it. Neck stiffness, dizziness, loss of use/weakness of arms (a temporary symptom), are just a few of the others. I can't drive with both hands on the wheel anymore. If I do, both arms will more or less instantly go to sleep. No warning there, just gone. One or the other hand on the wheel, no problem. Both hands, suicidal. Get thee to a Dr.. Good luck

'Bout the onliest thing I can think on, would be a poor ground for the dash unit. This would cause some grounding of the circuits, through other gauges on the dash, including the dash lights themselves. Not sure where the ground wire for the dash is landed, but I have 2 dashes (complete) out in the garage. I can look tommorrow and see where they are grounded. But, they are from an '82 and '86, so it may be in different spot. As to temp, sounds about normal. A/C will cause the engine to run hotter, due to the air off from the evap coil being hotter, and not asorbing much heat from the radiator. And yes, a 2-core would be a wise investment.