TomRhere

Yep. I have one, it's a GL. Originally a California vehicle.

Congrats on the XT! Welcome to the Board. May want to check out XT6.net also.

Coolness on the T-case/wheels delivery.

Welcome to the Board. Nice to see another owner from Michigan on here. I agree with northguy, go for the 5spd swap. But if you decide not to, I have a 4spd D/R sitting out in the garage, came out of an '86. BTW, where's the middle of the mitten, exactly? That covers a lot of acreage.

Yep, blown HG. Got a Neon sitting in the driveway right now, same symptoms. Hate doing HG on Neons, royal PITA!!!!

Sounds like you need a visit from Miles and crew. Have wrenches, will travel!

Getting a custom bent exhaust system done is fairly easy on the wallet, atleast around these parts. Most places will install the muffler(s) of choice that you bring in with the vehicle. I've had a couple of them done over the years, price ranged from $130-$175, depending on number of bends. Built my own 2" true duals for the '82, total cost was just over $70.00. Pipes were free, just had to get mufflers, hangers and clamps.

For one, replace the Thermostat again. Wouldn't be the first time a "new" t-stat was "bad". Check your lower radiator hose for softness. If it feels soft and squishy, change it! It can be sucked closed by the waterpump, ('specially at higher RPM's), and not allow the coolant to circulate. You can check it with the engine at temp, just get under the hood with engine running, rev it up while watching the hose, you can see it collapse if it's soft. Even though you were just at a radiator shop, make sure the air passages thru the core are free and clear of dirt and debris. Last resort, new 2-core radiator.

I'm there, don't know about what I'll be bringing yet.

Yep, I'll be there. Won't be driving the '82, but will be driving the '84. Not sure as to what I'll be bringing yet, but I really need to get some of this stuff out of my garage. I have; '86 EA-81 engine and 4-spd/DR, rear suspension setup, EA-82 engine year unknown but ran good, '82 BRAT DR-4spd tranny, complete '86 BRAT wiring harness. Miscellanious '86 BRAT parts. Probally more out there I could get rid of. Steve: don't sound like you'll have room for my T-case and rims when you head to Butler. Miles: you going over to Steve's for that car before the meet? Maybe you could bring my stuff back with you?

Try different aiming angles, methods. I've set some on some on my previous vehicles, so that the beams actually cross each other. DS one lighting up the PS of road, PS one lighting the DS of the road. May/may not help, but it's an easy try.

NAPA sells some stuff called "Mac's Radiator Cleanser". I've used the stuff many times, it really works good in my opinion. Directions say to drain system, refill with water, add cleanser, let run for 20-30- minutes, drain and flush system, refill with proper coolant mix. I've left the cleanser in for a couple of days on some really nasty looking systems, cleaned them up real good. Would also suggest to make sure that the fins of the radiator are clear of debris. Dirt and dead bugs will keep air from flowing thru the fins, making it run hot.

Hmmmmm. Got that bracket in my Weber kit. Just couldn't use it with the cable that was in the '82. Former owner shortened it when he put the EA-82 in. Why?, I dunno. I will be using it when I swap the Weber onto the '84. Like the throttle return spring mounting! Just curious as to how long it will stay there whith a lot of right foot movement.

Neither one of mine kicks on until the gauge gets up to about the 3/4 mark. Other possibilities are: corrosion around any of the connectors for the circuit; (on my '82) the wire to the switch on the radiator wouldn't stay on the terminal, little squeeze with pliers took care of that; the little ground wire on the top of the radiator to the body has been broken; the temperature switch on the radiator, died.

Little late for this, but I'll throw in my .02 anyways. Thinking it would have been way heavy on the front-end. Of course, you could go with stiffer spring rate. Power steering would have been a must too. The 302/351W block, C-6 trannies were used alot in the vans of the mid-70's era, also some of the pick-up trucks.

This is what my '84 has for an overflow tank. Looks stock to me. http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo81/EngineFront And this is what is, or was, in both the '82 and '86. Just an add on unit, same place as yours. http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo81/under_the_hood Wouldn't think not having an overflow tank installed, would cause the engine to overheat. I would look into the cooling system itself for the trouble. Mainly the thermostat, and overall condition of the radiator. 20 years of build up inside of the radiator is a good possibilty for your overheat problem. A new 2-row radiator can be had for about $120.00, give or take afew. www.radiators.com is one place to get one from. NOTE: not sure if the "s" is supposed to be on the end of radiator or not, going from memory there.

While checking the fuseable links out, this one suggests that you remove the box they are in from the body of the vehicle, and check the connections on the underside. One could have been corroded enough to have snapped off from the smack of the accident. Just my .02

Sorry, but alloy wheels can't be straightened. Majorly great chance of catastophic failure of said rim. Steel rims can be straightened, but it's pricey to do. And that's if you could find a place to do it. Are you sure the rim is bent? Have you tried rotating tires around to different corners of the vehicle? Reason for asking is, other mechanical problems could be at fault here. Worn, tie-rod ends, ball-joints, lower control arm bushings. An axle nut may be loose, allowing wheel to wobble a bit. That usually shows up as a dive to one side or the other when you let off of the gas pedal. Just some thoughts on the problem is all.

Not real sure of how many xt/xt-6 owners are on this Board, there's a few I know of. But trying over on the xt6.net site might get you the needed parts a bit faster. They were fairly quick in giving me the much needed info I was after for my engine swap. I do know someone with 2 XT-6's, I'll contact him and ask about parts availibility for you. Will post back.

no problems mate. glad i could give some worthwhile advice

Where, or to whom, do we send in donations, both for road repair and vehicle recovery efforts??

I will ante up too. Could've been one of them stuck out there myself. Was wanting to go, just didn't have the time. Darn it!~!~! That "mud" sounds like some really nasty wet clay. Got a few places around here with it. When wet, it's just plain mean stuff, and it dries up like concrete. I'm pulling for those still caught in the goo. To bad it's so far away, (10+ hour drive), got a John Deere 544D Load-All at my disposal. That should get them out. Just no-way to get it there. Good luck, Guys!!!!!!

:slobber: Lookin' GoooooD!

The drill/sheetmetal screw method works great for removing the seals. As mentioned, use caution when drilling and inserting screws. Upon replacing the front crank seal, Do Not drive it in to far. You want it just past flush with the face of the bore it goes into. Otherwise, you'll block an oil passage. The T-belt drive cogs should slide off of the crank, may need a little help from a pry-bar. Pay attention to how they are on the crank before removale. They need to go back on the same way, and they can be put on backwards if you're not carefull. Talking about the lip/belt-guide that's on them. I stand guilty of doing this myself, but caught it before I had the T-belts back on. DOH!!!!

Ahh, another piece of the puzzle has been put into place. Now, was the clutch slipping before this, or is it slipping now afterwards?