TomRhere

:burnout: Looking Good!!!

Seeing as there is a great difference in years here, I can't give you the exact wire colors to use, as they no doubt be different. The FP on my '82 wouldn't run at all on it's stock wiring, and PO had it hot wired to a switch off the battery. I didn't like that idea, so.... I found a "key-on" hot wire under the hood, used that to power a relay. Ran hot wire from battery, thru a fuse, to the relay and then out to the FP hot feed. Works like a charm. Didn't do it at first, but I did install a pressure switch on the oil pump. This switch closes it's contacts when it sees pressure. I then ran the ground wire for the FP relay thru this switch. No oil pressure = no FP running. I can't find the receit for the switch, so I can't give you the number of it. I just told the counter guy what I was wanting to do, and he hooked me up with a switch. By the way, my FP is way noisy too. Rattles something fierce. Don't know if it the original pump, or if it was swapped in when the EA-82 was swapped in. But it does it's job, so I can live with a bit of noise.

Been talking to friend (Lynn) that does body work. He says it will be nessecary to have WS and Slider out to do the graft. Mainly 'cause you have to weld in the top. After a whole lot of fitment trials and subsequent grinding of parts to get it to fit properly. Shouldn't have any leaks, if it's done right. Lynn and his F-i-L, know body work. Wonder how Tim had his Hatch done? Guess we won't know that answer now.

Maybe it's because the '82 is a unique vehicle itself. Basically, different than the rest of the BRATs, while still being of the same group. So we just make it more unique, by swapping in a different drivetrain set-up. Haven't actually started on the swap yet. Was/am still amassing needed things for it. Plus, I had to get the '84 more reliable, as it will be my daily driver for the duration of the swap. Part suppliers held me up there. "It'll ship out today", so I waits and I waits, but no parts. Then get email saying that they just shipped the order, a week and a half later. Now, it's time to do a quick purge of the garage so I have a bit more room to work in. Then it's on to the "82 and it's transplant(s). Main goal right now, is to get engine/tranny in and drivable. Then, I'll be doing some R&D on some suspension ideas I've been contemplating also. This will be for the planned T-case mod and it's needed lifting of the BRAT. Let y'all know what I find there. Maybe nothing. Maybe something good.

Spelling is probally all wrong here, but I tried anyways. DoMo Arigato, Nei !!!!!!

seeing as how the ER-27 has one on it. What about those types of AC compressors? Just add in an in-line oiler on the intake side, and I'll be good to go? I know about the control side of operation, just not sure on the mechanical side of these units.

Sounds like ignition timing to m, too.

Yep..... Get a "GOOD" Plasma Cutter, and you will, almost, want to toss the cutting torch! We used to have one at the Plant. But someone decided they needed it better than we did. Really sucks, that does!!!!

Scott, I have copies of most of the XT-6 wiring diagrams, got them from Dima over on the XT site. I have enough of it that I'm comfortable with it, other than that Damned Diode in the Fuel pump/Ignition relay's circuit. But you, Adam, and Arch seem to have gotten by with out it. So, I'll give it a go, myself. Qman, You're getting some mail. Would like some of the wiring diagrams anyways. Just makes trouble shooting circuitry that much easier. Thanks guys!!!!!!!!

bump

clutch?, and maybe rear seal on engine. There's a fix for the sloppy shifter on here somewhere, but can't remember who did it. They have a pic of it. Basically, you saw-cut the part of the linkage, (the piece that goes over the shaft coming out of the tranny). Make the cut, 90* to the pin hole, and a bit past the pin hole. Then drill the pin hole out to fit a bolt, in both the shaft and the shifter linkage. Install with bolt/nut and tighten. No more sloppy shifter.

Just bought the Accel coil/wires for the Wife's ride. I'll be installing them a bit later today. Along with new NGK plugs, and the rest of the normal tune-up/maintenance items.

More oil is always better. Oil aslo helps cool the engine, so more oil means it stays in the pan longer to disapate more heat. Also, more oil means longer oil life between changes, (helps lessen the thermal breakdown of the oil). Bigger oil pan + oil cooler = even better set-up!

After removing the axle nut, tire/rim, I drive the pin out, then remove the pinch-bolt from the knuckle where the lower ball-joint is. Now, using hammer of choice, and a block of wood, (I use a block of aluminum), drive axle towards the center of car, it won't go in far, but willl release some of the hold that the bearings have on it. Now, turn the steering wheel towards the side that you are working on. This will give you more room to swing the knuckle out. Now, wedge a screw driver into the slot to help release the ball-joint, using a pry bar of choice, (mines a broken shovel handle), lay prybar across the reaction rod that is bolted to the control arm, and put the end of it under the engine support right about where the E-brake cable is attached to it. Press down on pry bar, freeing knuckle from ball-joint, swing knuckle out to remove axle from tranny stub. You can now drive the axle out of the knuckle the rest of the way, straighten wheel out if you need to. You will probally need a long prift punch to drive it all the way out. Only one bolt to remove this way, and less chance of damaging the tie-rod end. No offense to anyone that removes tie-rod end. I put the new axle on tranny stub first, (pay attention to the proper alignment of the pin hole here), then swing knuckle out to install axle into knuckle. Will work either way, you can put axle into knuckle first ifin you want to. Axle will probally not come thru knuckle far enough to get the washers and nut on at this time. So just use the nut itself to draw it in far enough to get the washers on it. May even have to give the knuckle a few mule kicks to start nut onto axle. Axle nut torque is 145 ftlb's, but really way tight is what you want. Last axle I changed stated 170 ftlb's for the nut. Would suggest rechecking the torque after driving around for a few days. I talk more than the rest of them.

Send me more pics, PLEASE! Trogdor sent me the link to that last night, and was wondering ifin it was your ride. NOW, WE KNOW THE REST OF THE STORY! Wasn't sure myself ifin it was your ride, mainly 'cause the front-end of the wagon looks different. Maybe I was distracted, don't know on that for sure. But yes, please send me more of those awful degrading pics.

Mine's a California model, atleast I'm thinking that due to the sticker on the winshield stating that it conforms to Ca. emission regs, as of DOM. Plus, there's an ECU under the dash. I need some wiring diagrams to ponder over, for when I get busy doing the ER-27 MPFI/DR 5spd swap. Which, hopefully, I'll get started on this coming week. Last of the needed parts for the '84 showed up here yesterday. So it's time to get it tuned-up, filter changes, belt, hoses, PS axle, whatnots. Then it's on to the '82. Any and all help well be greatly appreciated.

1. What was the answer to this post, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/usmb/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12332 2. Been discussed on here before, about using carb fuel pump to supply MP/SP-FI pump mounted under hood. Not sure of the out-come of that discusion though.

If I read this right, you have removed the cat from the exhaust, (it was in the Y-pipe). If that is true, you will need to plug the hoses to the AIS/ASV systems, (at the air filter can), or just plain remove those systems outright. Those systems pump extra air into the exhaust to aid the cat in doing it's job, hence your unwanted noises. I did this to mine when I installed the 2" exhaust system, and had the same burbling and kapows from the exhaust on decelleration. Tended to PO the nieghbors at 5:AM. I removed all of the AIS/ASV crapola, and plugged the steel lines where they come off from the exhaust ports. As far as pipe size goes, I'm running full 2" duals, no cross connection, turbo mufflers, and the Weberized EA-82 seems to like it. (Nice ear candy too) Others are running 1-7/8" from the engine to cat, (if needed), then 2" on back, thru muffler of choice. Been lots of debates on here over pipe size for the Soob engines. I went with 2", because it matched the port size in the head. Just seemed to be the right thing to do.

That mod would give you the capability to adjust for camber and castor (albeit limited) of the front wheels. That would be a great benefit on a lifted rig. Think it would be of greater benefit to have the shaft of the lower arm, threaded at both ends though, with left hand and right hand thread. That would make the adjustment of camber part a bit easier. Having adjustment on the other rod, would allow for some castor adjustment, but not much. That is usually done at the upper end of the knuckle. But, it may help get the wheel more centered in the fender opening. Which could be of some benefit. One drawback I can invision with having a more or less solid mount on the rear rod, would be transfer of road noise and bump shock to the body. Could be a bit annoying. Have to ponder that idea, and see if I can improve on it some.

http://www.alloemautoparts.com/

Ours arrived on Friday. Thanks. Wife has been wearing her T, and Son is totally gaga over his hoody. Had my T on for fit test, but took it back off, don't want to get it dirty yet.

The Jackson(Mi) City Police had/have a late '70's Corvette as a Patrol car. The Jackson Post of the State Police had/have a Mustang SVO, '86 I think. If either one is in your rear view mirror, you might as well pull on over, 'specially if it's the 'Stang. It be one fast horse, and they know how to drive it.

so bear with me, it's been awhile since I've played with one. I do believe the knob on the timing gun is used to check on things like total mechanical advance and total vacuum advance. You'll want the knob set on zero to set the timing on your engine.

This is scary. I just bought one for the Wife's BRAT. Hmmmmmm

http://www.rockforddriveline.com/replacem.htm They have replacement u-joints for Soobs. The proper way to grease an u-joint, is to use a prybar of choice and push against the yoke (each end cap in turn) so that the grease will be sent to each end cap.