TomRhere

Just read this thread for the first time, this morning, so I could be a little late with this. The wiring for the ECU, runs down the PS of the vehicle, under the carpet. Or atleast it does on an XT-6. The ECU is mounted under the package shelf near the speaker on the PS. You probally have to pull the heater system out to get to the connectors inside of the car, but don't quote me on that. I was stripping the XT-6 out, so everything came out anyways. There's a mess of relays, below the radio, 2 of which are your fuel pump and ignition relays. Best to get a wiring diagram of the XT's system. It will make life simpler for you.

that you have a valve stuck open, for what ever reason. Would suggest an air supply plumbed into dead cylinder, then listen at the intake and exhaust. You'll be able to tell very easily what it is, from this test.

Parts are on their way to Allen. Put them in the Roadway truck this afternoon. Cost me just under $85.00 to ship 145# gross weight, to Franklin, Vt. He should have them come the 1st of March. Sent him an email asking for a rough time frame to have parts available for sale. Will post back with his reply. Now, it's time for the ER-27/DR 5spd swap to begin!!!!!!!!!!!

I too, am wondering on this subject. I have the wiring diagrams for the ER-27 MPFI engine. It shows a diode wired in between the circuits for the fuel pump relay, and the ignition relay. I failed to get the diode out of the XT-6 when I was scrapping it, mainly 'cause I didn't know it was there. So now I be pondering what to do. I know that a diode is a one-way gate for electrical flow, and a resistor lessens the amount of electrical flow. That may not be an exact statement, but sums it up closely.

Early ignition timing will cause the engine to run hotter. Would check the T-belt timing, and then disty timing.

Recheck the tightness of the axle nut. I've had the things loosen up on me. Probally caused by the bearings not being fully seated, but not sure on that. Just know that I have to retorque the axle nuts after awhile.

Todd, You would need to contact Allen to get a quote, I can't give you one. His contact info is in the link I posted at the top of this page. I can say that the parts are costly, but they are custom fabricated pieces, which = $$$. But the cost is moot when you're trying to restore a vehicle. That's just my opinion, I want to restore both of my BRAT's, and I will do it, regardless of an item needed's cost. I took the parts to the shop yesterday and skidded them up for shipment. 33#'s of tare weight, and 112# of rusty steel, for a total of 145# gross. Bossman will be calling some Trucking Co's for me Monday to get a quote on shipping charges. I also included the lower front splash shields, and the fender brace struts/rods for the lower end of the front fenders, in this shipment. I have been told of the whereabouts of an '78 Wagon, way rusty, but mine ifin I want it. I may get this, and do the same to it, thus giving some pieces available for the Older Subaru owners to work with. Will post here if I do get it.

I may have the answer to that later this week. I have the DR4spd from my '86 sitting on the floor of the garage. I will be pulling the EA-82/DR4spd out of the '82 this week. So I will be able to do a side-by-side comparo of the two. As far as I know, the tranny in the '82 is the original one, same with the '86. Will post back with answer as soon as I have the tranny out.

I too have had some of the nuts spin in the rear half of the T-belt covers. But instead of breaking the cover, I used a thin putty knife slipped beteen the halves, then spun the bolt while prying on the putty knife. This spun the nut out of the rear piece. Now, I was able to use pliers to hold the nut, and turn the bolt out of it. Won't work if they are to rusted in, though. Maybe good rust penitrant will help there. After I was done with the repairs under the covers. I found a longer bolt of the same thread size. Spun the nut on the bolt, held bolt head with pliers, then heated the nut abit with the propane torch, then stuck it back in the hole. You have to hold it there for abit, and keep it straight. This will re-melt the plastic around the nut, and keep it from spinning. Use Anti-sieze on the bolts when putting the covers back on.

Not exactly sure where he is located, but he is in So. California. Name's Allen, he's a member of the Yahoo BRAT Club, email is allen @ yahoo.com

Cut the entire wheel well areas out, then just cut the rest of the box into manageable pieces. I'll be loading the parts to be sent into my '82 so I can get them skidded up and weighed, tomorrow. So far, this is what I'm sending to Wolf steel; DS floor pan area, they can copy it for the PS, PS rocker section, better shape than DS, Complete rear wheel well sections, including shock mounts, Battery tray area. Once I hear back from Allen, I may be sending a door shell, and the tail-gate shell. Have to see if they can do anything for those yet. Maybe even the gas tank, ifin they can do something with it, too.

My '82 did the same thing when I first got it. Was just playing around with it to see if it worked at all, I don't have the interior dashswitch for it. By using jumper wires at the connector for the light, I could get the lamp to work, and get the door to open, I just couldn't get it to close. Pulled the unit out of the BRAT, for a better look at it, thinking maybe something was amiss in the motor itself. What I found was the wire to power the close circuit, had corroded off at the connection on the motor itself, where the pigtail is soldered to the motor. A little cleaning of the area, and some freshly applied solder fixed it. Now I just need to wire in a control switch for it.

Todd, No they don't. They really don't have anything for Subaru's at all. But, all they need is a template to make a part from. Be it an old panel or a mock-up made from any material that would hold it's shape during shipping.

Yes, I am sending the entire left and right wheel wells, (both inner and outer sections), along with the shock mount brackets. I can give them a link to Scott's write-up on the needed repair of this area. Going to try and get a section of the rear subframe to send them also. Just to see if they can devise out a repair section for that area. I know on this '86, it's rusted way badly were the torsionbar bolts in. Had to use the firewrench to remove the rear suspension. Mustache bar, and shock bolts turned out by wrenching, but the torsion tube was staying put otherwise. Skip, I'm taking on this endeavor because I really love my BRAT's. I want to keep them on the road as long as possible. An extreme lack of body repair panels is making that practically impossible. Thus the undertaking of scrapping the '86 out, to save the other ones. This will also benifit other BRAT owners, in their effort to save theirs. One must be sacrificed, so that others may live on.

I'm going to graft the roof into the Wife's ride, as she doesn't have T-Tops on her's. I made the cuts about 4" down on the A-pillar, and just above the B of the BRAT logo. According to Allen at Wolf Steel, they are only interested in the lower third of the body. So I'm thinking a whole door is out of the question, but I'll ask. May just be a replacement section of door bottom, and outer skin. Sorry Dave, but my '82 is getting the tail light for the PS, the DS on this one is fubared.

Spent the day yesterday, out in the garage with a saws-all and cutting torch. Boy do my hands and fingers hurt now from hanging on to the saws-all. Dadburned arthritis anyways. Cut off the radiator support, strut tower areas, roof, and upper dash section. Split the cab floor down the middle, but more to the PS, to the rear wall, then across the inside of the bed to the wheel well area, to get a good template of the floor pan for the Metal Shop. Still have the bed to cut up. Going to cut-out the entire wheel well sections to send along with the floor pan. Been emailing with Chris over in Ann Arbor, Mi. He has 2 '82 BRATs that he'll be parting out. We are hoping to get the bed floor area, and a good front end section out of those to send to the Shop. Haven't talked to anyone from the Shop lately, but I will ask on the tailgate, and gas tank when I do.

6'-3" 225# here, and I fit just fine in my BRATs.

Had bad wheelbearing in the '86 when I first bought it, also had bad axle on the same side. Swapped axle out first, helped to eliminate most of the noise, but not all. Still had a clicking while driving down the road. Slight to moderate vibration also, would increase with speed. Replaced bearings when it started to make the steering wheel twitch at low speeds. After that, no more noise or vibration.

That'll put a dent in the wallet. Guess I'll wait a bit before doing the engine I have, unless it leaks badly. Didn't notice any leaks when I had it running though. Need to get that puppy in the BRAT!!!

Was the guy doing that Rally Justy. I remember seeing the pics of the engine and adapter, had to go to his website though

No Red plug on the front of the engine. Bet it is the block heater myself. Mine has one, but it doesn't look to be red, but its way dirty too.

I'll do some checking, and get back with you on this. Time off work, money and such. Be around a 10 hour drive from here, according to the Yahoo map search.

I have an '84 BRAT, sitting out in the driveway. I can look at it later, when the Sun arises. Can you be a bit more specific as to it's locale? The connection that is. On top of the engine, on the front of the engine?

As faras running good with the Weber, I'd have to say definetly yes. Some of us have had issues to overcome, most don't. But over-all, much better performance and gas milage. My last road trip, did 310 miles, took 10.5 gallons to refill tank. Not bad me thinks, 'specially since I was running 65-75 mph most of the time, with some stop and go town driving.

http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo81/Weber_FV Only pic I have of the EA-82 with Weber in my '82 BRAT. Removed every non-nessecary vacuum line. Even removed the exhaust emmision stuff, (ASV, tubing, lines) as I am running no cats either. Really cleans up the engine area.