TomRhere

The Hill-Holder (H-H) isn't releasing the brakes fully. It's plumbed into the Left Front/Right Rear brake lines.

Had issue of the barrel on the end of the accelerator cable catching on part of the choke linkage of the Weber. I was using the Hitachi cable attachment on the Weber. Fixed it by adding a couple of washers in behind that plate.. So, I would take a good look at that area of yours.

No 5-speed D/R from the Factory. Correct. But Above pic shows 5-speed shift knob, so someone either swap the trans or they cheated and just used the knob for "Looks".

More pictures, Please. Parted out an '86 like yours a few years back. May have a few items hanging around from it. I'll have to dig around to be sure though.

partstrain.com shows various parts for the ER27 engine. I haven't ordered any from them, so can't say if they actually do have them. And as to what Emily posted about oil and waterpump, I can say that the ER27 waterpump has larger bore for the inlet water pipe. Can't say anything about the hub height, as to whether it has a 105mm or 110mm, or something totally different. Same bolt pattern as the EA82 pump though. Have yet to measure out the ER27 oilpump to see if there is any differences that would stop one from using it on an EA82, or an EA82 one on the ER27. But just by eye, they look vary similar. Got the notion in my head that the ER27 oilpump "should" have a bit more volume to it. But, ?!?

Sucks that the new pump was bad right out of the box, especially so as it can't be returned. Codes 34 and 35 are due to the windings of those solenoids being shot. Replace them with different solenoids, or wire in a 33 Ohm resistor in their place. Toyota or Nissan has similar solenoids, just need to change the connector over to the Subaru type. Need to get the codes cleared before you can really troubleshoot other issues. The CTS can be some what in spec, but giving false temp reading to the ECU. In other words, It's Lying... I replaced the one in my '88 with an IDI Brand 17-1233 Sensor, and BWD Brand 28419A connector. Cut connector off old one and soldered it to the new connector leads. Helped with cold start issue I was having, especially during the Winter cold.

Same bearings, rods, pistons, rings as EA82's have. Just a few more of each. Pulled pistons out of an '88 ER27, looked and measured the same as pistons out of '92 EA82 SPFI engine. 9.5-1 compression ratio from what I've read on here, and the XT site.

Thanks for the update on what the issue was.

Yahoo Groups, thegreatsubarubratclub, has downloadable FSM files. They are a .rar type file, which means you have to have Office or the like on your computer. I know I can't open them myself. And yeah, the '82 FSM will work for the rest of the years the BRAT, or any EA81/2nd Gen was produced.

You say you have spark at all 4 plugs. But,, is the spark happening when it should? Check disty timing and plug leads for proper orientation. You could be off on the disty, and/or have the plug wires off/out of order on the cap. Just my .02.

Condolences to His Family and Friends. He will be missed here on the Board.

You may be starving the pump with the reduced inlet size. So your thought of redoing that is sound thinking. Pumps push much easier than they draw, so anything one can do to aide the draw is best.

I'll go along with the, "to much amperage" issue. It just may be that your starter solenoid needs replaced, and is why it's blowing the fuse.

Just get hold of some period correct replacements for the things that need modified, such as shifter and steering components. Then you'll have "stock parts" to go with the vehicle should you decide to sell it. You've already moded the shifter linkage doing the 5-speed swap, even with using Jerry's kit.

The bushing can wear out. Can be replaced but it's not a, "press out the old-press in the new" thing. Been a few people post on here that they destroyed the arm trying to do so. Best way to do it is; remove arm from vehicle' drill down thru the rubber between the outer bushing shell and it's inner steel sleeve for the thru bolt, try to remove as much rubber as you can, take a hacksaw blade and cut thru outer bushing shell with out hitting the sleeve of the arm itself, now you can work the old bushing sleeve out of the arm sleeve with hammer and punch/chisel. Once old stuff is out, new can be pressed in. It's during the attempt at removing the old one that damage is done if trying to press it out. Did they tell you what they found, other than the control arm is bad?

Learned the Freezer Trick years ago. The warmer the ambient temp of the housing the better. Hair dryer, heat gun, hand-held torch used to heat the housing if need be. Don't need to get it Cherry Red or anything like that, just a bit more than you can stand to have your hand on for a few minutes. But one doesn't always need to heat the housing On a 90*+ day, if the housing is getting direct sun, you probably don't need added heat. Last one I did during the Winter cold, I hung the arm in front of my torpedo heater for a few minutes, then slid the cold bearing housing into it. Heat expands, cold contracts. I use it to my advantage when possible.

Really don't need a press for the rear bearings either. Once stub axle is removed, use a piece of brass, aluminum, what have you against the outer bearing and drive it and the outer race from the hub. One should have the new outer race in a plastic bag sitting the freezer overnight before starting the repair. New race will slide right in the housing. Just remember to have the new outer bearing , properly greased, in the outer race before sliding it into the hub.

Not all Subaru's had the "Bump-Stop". So, no,, it's not a super critical got to have it component. I know the Wagons have them, not sure just what other body styles have them. They are there to help the suspension from "totally bottoming out" when caring a load in the back. That's it. Just a bit more cushion is all when the loaded vehicle encounters rough road conditions. Not a good thing to be bottoming out the shocks a lot. Continuously hitting the bump-stops will destroy them though.

Yes. You will need new seals. Seals need to be removed so you can get bearings out. Time for new seals.....

I would, just for the peace of mind thing. Been a few years back, but Member on here was chasing a coolant loss issue. Wasn't until they dropped the exhaust off the engine and ran it, that the crack in the exhaust port was found. Also, as long as you have the engine torn down, it don't take much more to pull the pistons out. I've torn down a few EA82 engines in search of good parts to redo one for my Wagon. Each and every piston I pulled had seized oil rings. A new set of rings isn't to costly, and would be a good purchase in my opinion.

Nice trike! Really liking the air filter can, um,,, pan.

Been posts on here of the crack between the valves getting deep enough to go into the exhaust port where it can also open into the water jacket. Also seems it's more common on Turbo motors.

Yes, two of those bearings. Inner/outer seals are the same also. So two of each per side

Go Dad!! Learned a lot from my Dad, he schooled me on doing things I needed his knowledge on. He would come over to assist me, but really just told me how to do certain things I was unsure on. "You have to do it yourself, I can do it, but "You", won't learn anything by me doing it". I so miss that Man......... Slow and steady gets the job done. But I'm thinking that you got a tad bit slow on this one for a bit. JK! I have no room to talk in the attempt to get my Wagon back on the road. Let alone the '82 BRAT that's been sitting in pieces out in the garage for some 12 years.

LOL. No, but I live 1/2 mile as the crow flies from a decent sized lake. 5 more smaller lakes with in a 5 mile radius of me. Actually quite a few lakes around the area here. Those rotors looked almost as bad when I took them off the XT6 8-9 years ago. Then they sat around in the garage until I put them under the Wagon. Thought they'd clean up some just from brake use, but they never did. Rears never really worked right, but they do now with the new rotors, calipers and pads.