TomRhere

I just ordered one of those from him, about a week ago. Will post pics of it as soon as I get it, and have it on my '82. May be a bit before that happens though. His Wife has more urgent matters for him to work with now.

Miles put up a link to my exhaust. I went with 2" pipes, because it matched the port opening in the heads. The engine is also an EA-82. Built it out of EMT electrical conduit, because the price was right, FREE! She runs good in the lower RPM's, but really comes on from 3500 on up. Mufflers are Xcellerator Turbo's. Not to loud, till you womp on the loud pedal.

Paid $700.00 for the Wife's '84. No T-tops, Auto. Has some rust, but that's the norm around these parts. BRAT's are kinda hard to find around here, also.

You don't apply torque to the sprocket bolts, you apply it to the sprocket itself. There's a tool to do this, but hard to locate one. You can make one yourself though. Lot of owners here have done this, some one here has to have a pic of one, I don't. You need a flat piece of metal lond enough to go across the sprocket, drill through the metal, and install some 1/4" bolts, that will line up with the holes in the sprocket. Then drill the piece of metel in the center, and install a larger bolt/nut. Helps to have the metal thick enough to be able to thread this hole. Use loc-tite on this bolt. Now, you place tool on cam-sprocket, use torque wrench to apply tension to T-belts, tighten the tensioners. Torque is applied in counter-clockwise direction, so you need a reversable torque wrench.

:slobber: Love the color, shows up better in this pic, than it did the last one.

http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo81/under_the_hood If you're talking these relays in this pic of my '82, they are for the AC system. Niether my '84 or '86 has them, as theu ae not AC equipped. Thinking you are on the right track in going for the wiring, after the key switch. Possibly, just a bad connection at some point, but I can't say where you'd find it.

If you can get away with no cat on the car, it would help. Also, mine just loves the 2'' true duals I have under it, no cat(s). Could still do that and use a free flowing cat. Check out discountconverters.com Lot's of goodies in there, for cats anyways. They have some dual in/out ones listed, good for doing up a dual system.

not trying to correct a Subaru Guru here Qman. But with Naaaaawwwwwssss, it would be more like this, yes/no? :burnout:

Some of us with Webers have been lucky and just slapped it on and hit the road. Some of us with Webers (like me) have had to fiddle, cajole, sweet-talk, threaten, coerse(sp), rant, rave, cuss, swear, break out the dyamite, and the AK-47's. Some have to run a FPR (me), some don't. No clue as to why though, other than individual vehicles state of being. But I do love my Weber!!!!!!!

Sorry, I can't help you, '92 is a bit to new for me. Just wanted to welcome you to the board. I'm sure one of the Subaru Guru's will be here shortly to give you some directions on this. Lots of good people here, and some good info is to be found. Would suggest doing a search for fuel pump related threads, as this is something we all suffer from at one time or another. The search function is at the top right hand side of the pages, just incase you may have missed it. Again, Welcome to the Board.

http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo81/2_inch_duals_FV http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo81/Exhaust_side_view This is my set-up. True Duals, no cross-over or y-pipe as of yet, definetly no cat. Mufflers are Xcellerator Turbos, $30.00 each at the local parts house. Hate to say it, but Dad WILL know if you put these on. Not loud per se, but 'taint 'xactly quiet either. Love the sound of the EA-82 Weberized engine winding out going up thru the gears. Nice little putt-putt at idle, but all heck breaks loose when I nail the loud pedal. Been reports of innocent by-standers being injured by snapping their heads around to see what the heck is coming at them. Ain't nothing even close to sounding like a ricer, either. Think of a Harley with a somewhat quiet exhaust, and you'll be close. Been told that by Harley owners, they like the exhaust tones of it..

When figuring CR, you have to account for the combustion chamber area in the head, also. That alone could account for upto 1.0 of the total CR. Ever hear of guys building engines and CCing the heads? That's what they are doing, checking the volume of the combustion chamber, and trying to equalize them all, but it is part of the overall CR of the engine.

It is not completely nessecary to swap-out the rack unit. I would however, loop the PS lines from the rack to each other. This will keep the fluid from getting all over the engine bay when you crank the steering wheel, and also keep dirt and other nasties from getting into the rack. Just incase you should want to put a new pump on it at a later date.

Possibility here of a slight carbon track inside the disty cap, either to ground or another terminal on the cap. Could be enough of it to cause plug not to fire, as carbon will flow the electrical charge easier than the charge can jump the gap of the plug. As for you getting a charge when playing with the wires. Still could be in the disty cap. As "you" will flow an electrical charge easier than the carbon track will. As mentioned above, pull the plug, re-attach the plug wire, lay it on the block assuring a good grounding of the plug, then have an assistant crank engine while you watch for spark at plug. No spark would lead me to think of bad wires, and/or disty cap. If you get a spark at the plug, I would then pull a compression test on the engine. Also, if you have the means to do it. I would use the tester fitting to apply an air source to the cylinder. Helps to have the piston at Top Dead Center when doing this test. (use pencil in plug hole to verify TDC). Listen for air at the intake opening, exhaust pipe, oil fill tube, and look for bubbles in the radiator. Results of this test are; At intake--bad, or stuck intake valve/seat. At exhaust pipe--bad, or stuck exhaust valve/seat. At oil fill tube--bad piston rings. Bubbles in radiator-- bad head gasket/cracked head. Just my .02

:slobber: I likes it!!! Looking good from this angle. Got the gears turning in the ol' brain housing group here. Miles: He's got the XT-6's 5 speed in there, 'least that's what I read.

Yep. Fuel and brake lines run under the trim on the door sill, then up the firewall. Less chance of damage to them that way. Would also check the vapor canister under the hood. They have been known to give off fumes at times. Did you cap-off the float bowl vent line going to tyhe vapor canister, when you did the Weber swap? You should have.

I own 3 BRATs, all bought within the last 2 years. The last 2 involved a road trip of over 350 miles one-way to meet with the Previous Owners, and purchase them. Do I need another one, not really. Will I buy another one, more than likely. Do I want another one, HE Double hockey sticks yes!

A sticky float, and or sticky needle valve would cause this. The needle valve is what shuts off the fuel supply to the carb when the fuel level rises and causes the float to push the needle valve onto it's seat. I have seen needle valves literally wedged into the seat. You don't get any fuel flow when that happens. Other things that come to mind are, plugged or restricted tank vent lines; try running with the gas cap loose or off to check that. fuel pump going south on you; it may still be pumping fuel, but how much fuel is it pumping is the question. pick-up tube in the tank; there's a sock type filter screen on the end of it, could be partially clogged with yuck, rust, whatever. Don't have a good break-down of the carb pictured in either of the books I have here. But I wonder how the fuel shut-off solenoid on the carb would fit into the picture. If it shuts off all fuel flow when you turn the key off, then it could be a suspect in this case. Bad connection in the wires leading to it, could cause it to close, shutting off the fuel supply. They let you run a Weber there in Ca.? If so go for it. I likes mine.

That sounds like a heck of a trip. Glad you made it safely. One question though. Did you have to bring the snow, and cold with you?? j/k

I've done many HG on many different vehicles. If the Gasket Maker says not to re-torque, I don't. No one has returned their car, or complained of faulty workmanship. When I did the HGs on my EA-82 engine, stated right on the gaskets, "Do not re-torque". So I didn't.

You have to turn the disty shaft a bit backwards, before you drop it in. This makes up for the turn of the gears meshing. When installing a disty, it's not so much the turning of the disty body, as it is the turning of the gear drive, (which moves the rotor), that you need to compensate for. Find the #1 plug terminal on the disty, by using the #1 wire position on the cap, then drop the disty in. Notice how much the rotor turns. Pull disty back out. Then re-align the rotor, so that when you put the disty in, it comes back to that point, or atleast really close to that point. HTH!

Looked at the conectors at the sending unit, they be corroded. Only 2 wires at sending unit. Tried a quick-fix and just cut/respliced wires. Low-level light still on!!!! Put another $5:00 worth of go juice in the tank.......Light is still on! Told Wife to deal with it! . . . . . . . . . . Wrong annswer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! . . . . . I'm in deep _ _ _ _ ,Now! Help, . . . . . . Please!

Guage accuracy, who knows, I don't. Had about 1/4 tank when I picked it up in Wisconsin. Put more gas into it, reads about 1/2 now. Haven't filled it, or drove it more than 30 some miles. Skip, I'll check out those wires. Bad ground sounds feesible. I'll check it out tomorrow. Just got back from a 345 mile road trip. I be whooped! Thanks all,

It's always on, Why? What do I need to look at for fix. Doesn't matter how much gas is in the tank, it's on. Wife don't like it being on. Any thoughts Ideas will be appreciated, greatly.