TomRhere

Check on that too

Pull your Alt and have it checked out. could be bad VR in there. That will drain the battery

I shall ask them.

Dirty trick by old neighbor = :madder: New 3 car garage = Double wishbone front suspension = I would like more info on that one.

I've heard back from Allen Hall at Wolf Steel. They do not make anything out of Stainless steel. They do have Zinc-coated Steel for making the rockers from, same pricing as the Mild Steel ones. Been working on stripping out the '86. Started yesterday morning, and have it stripped as far down as the Front and Rear suspension components, front and rear bumpers, gas tank, fuel and brake lines. I be a tired whipped puppy now. I'm getting to Old for this stuff. NOT!

Posted this on the Alliance board too. My Mom is wanting to move back to Texas, sometime in May. Still working on the extact date. Will let you all know, as soon as I find out. Want to come down and party, but Mom comes first. On another note: Get your backsides up here!!!! I've started on the '86. You all want parts, get up here and help me get them out. Have Thurs, Fri, and Sunday to work on it. I go back to work on Mon the 5th.

Ifin I read this right, sounds like your wanting the OEM Cruise Control set-up. Pretty much a plug-n-play item for the most part. Although, I'm not quite sure how Subaru does all of it. Thinking all of the wiring is there, just need the hardware for it. I could be wrong though, does happen now and then. Parts in "general" are; Brake pedal vacuum switch, Clutch pedal vacuum switch, (only ifin it's a manual tranny), Cruise Control Brain box, (located ?), Throttle Actuator bellows and linkage, (in the engine bay), Cruise Control switch, (usually it's in with the turnsignal lever), Vacuum lines to connect all of the above, Time and patience to remove and install is required. Best to take notes on what's where, and how this/that is ran/hooked up. Hope this helps.

Looks good from here! But I think you're missing part of it, ifin it supposed to be a wagon. Wee bit short behind the rear wheels.

Bit early yet, but who knows where I'll be at the proper time. HAPPY NEW YEAR !!! May the Subaru Gods always smile upon you.

I'm taking notes on this. Any more suggestions? Scott, I like that idea too. But Stainless would be $$$. I'll ask them for a rough quote, though. Jus to get an idea on it.

Ok, as much as I hate the thought of doing it, I'm scrapping out the '86 BRAT. She's just to rusty to fix. I've been in contact with Wolf Steel, http://www.alfaparts.net/subaru.html on shipping them the body panels that are prone to rusting on the BRATs. They can make replacement panels from the bad sections. Other than the bed wheel wells, and rocker areas, what do you BRAT owners consider as target areas for rust-out, and replacement panels? Would like to ship them the whole shell, but I can't afford to do that. I'll just cut the offending section(s) out, and ship them.

Looking good!! Even with the bent hood. Every true warrior has atleast one battle scar!!!

Pulled the heater blower out, trashed the mouse nest, washed everything down with Murphy's Oil soap. Smells goooooood now! Wife got home from work, and walked into the garage. First she has really seen the BRAT up close. Lots of Oooooo's and Aaaaah's. She's happy with it. Aired up the soft front tire, then aired the one for the rear. It's not on the BRAT, just sitting there in the garage. Just want to see ifin it will hold air. Got the BRAT down of the jackstands. Wife fired it up, and drove it up and down the block a few times. She got a case of BRATitis, and wanted to drive it more. So it was off to get Plates and Insurance on it. Be road legal now. Put some fresh gas in it, along with some fuel system cleaner, and went for a drive. It has over a1/2 tank now, but the low-fuel light is still on, !?!? Slight vibration there at 55mph, feel it in the seat, could be the PS axle. Other than that, she runs good. Handling is crisp, brakes are excellant, ride is comfortable, for a BRAT that is. Drove around for 30 miles, or so, with a stop at the local watering hole to show-off the newest ride. Everyone that was there likes the look of it, especially the interior. No idication of wanting to over-heat at all. Stayed right in the middle on the gauge. Cool!!! Del was going to drive it in to work today, but changed her mind this morning. Wants me to finish tinkering with it. I think she's got the Soob-bug now. Skip, Thought of that connector myself, havin't looked into it as yet. But going to. She cranked over on her own, atleast 7 times yesterday. Cotton-pickin gremlins anyways!!!

Got the one out of the XT-6, looks okay to me, didn't leak. Will have the one out of the '82BRAT, it's an EA-82 style, no leaks, engine runs at normal temps. Let me know!!

The dash gauge is not very acurate, been said here many times. Suggest an aftermarket one.

"727 coming outta the sky," Sorry, couldn't resist the urge to do that. I'll go to my corner, now.

I'm in!! Don't know which BRAT I'll be driving, hopefully the '82 with it's new engine. We'll see. Jim-------Get meeky moose's Hatch, then come BaJa!!!

I remember someone else had this problem, awhile back. Thinking that the delay control unit, is above the steering column, towards the center of the dash. It could be your culprit, or it could be the switch. The delay unit has a timer and a relay in it. Haven't had one out/apart, so I don't know if you'd be able to fix it any. Do the wiper work on low and hi as they should? Using a Digital Multi-Meter, isn't all that difficult, and they come with instruction for use. Cost varies, but you can get a good one for a small amount of $. A homemade test light can be used in some instances. You will need a road map (wiring diagram) to the color code of the wiring in order to chase down the various circuits in a vehicle. Someone here on the board has to have one to cover your BRAT.

ER-27 D/R-5 spd swap is next in-line. Right after the parting out of the '86. Have to do these things with some kind of an aura of a plan, ya know. Besids, you guys are wanting parts from the '86 aren't you?

First off, I have a proplem in the electrical system. She wouldn't even offer to turn over this morning, when I wanted to put her in the garage. Started right up with a jump though. Battery is a good one, and has been starting the '86 right along, so I'm sure it's something with the '84s wiring. Re-did the battery cables and connections, but still won't turn over with out a jump, or the battery charger on it. Grrrr! After I got her in the garage, I found a major vacuum leak, and fixed it, took care of the 3000RPM idle problem. Still have slight leak on that line, but I'll be replacing all of the vacuum lines anyways. She now starts right up and idles like she should. Other than the don't want to crank with out a jump ordeal, that is. Pulled a compression check, engine somewhat cold. Did this to verify bad Head Gasket. Cranked the engine with a jumper wire on the starter. No problem cranking there. Hmmm?!? #1-165 #2-170 #3-145 #4-150 Don't sound bad for a supposed bad HG, now does it? Kinda odd that the front cylinders are higher than the rear ones. I cleaned the (Autolite 63) plugs and put them back in. Topped off the radiator level, and fired her up, and let her run. Found the reason for over-heating, bad heater hose. Put in a small section of good hose, re-filled the radiator, and fired it back up. Let her sit there idling for an hour or so, no further problems with over-heating. Checked out all the lights, radio, heater controls, crawled around under her, just scoping things out while she was running. She's got the normal Mid West rust on her, but not as bad as some I've seen. Rockers, rear wheel wells, lower A-pillar, door bottoms, the splash shields beside the front skid plate. Other than that, she looks good. Have to pull the heater blower and evict the mouse nest in there, then clean it out good. HooooWeeee! does it smell bad when you turn on the heat. Going to replace all of the cooling system hoses, don't know why that wasn't done before. Has new radiator, waterpump, T-stat. Give a fresh tune-up with NGK plugs, good wires, may do the Accel coil if money permits. Replace all of the vacuum lines, PCV valve, and all of the filters. Don't really know how much gas is in the tank, she's reading above a 1/4 tank, but the low-fuel light is on. Hmmmm?!? But I'm going to fill her up with some fresh gas, then add some fuel system cleaner to the tank, just to clean out the gunk from sitting. Have to replace the PS drive axle, bad boot, DS axle is new. The Y-pipe is a newer used one, and the rest of the exhaust system is new. Yea!! Y-pipe has an O2 sensor in it, but don't think it's needed on this engine, didn't find a wire for it anywhere. Going to get some new battery cables, and see if that helps the no-crank delema. Also have to get some new wiper blades, they be toast. Had one flat tire on her when we went to pick her up, have to see what's up there. Could just be bad rim seal. Once all of the above maint/repair stuff is done, the Wife will be driving it daily. She's patiently waiting for me to get it done. Yea right! Photo link: http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo81/Driver1

http://www.dune-buggy.com/turbo/index.htm Good write-up on turboes on that site. Has list of what vehicles have what turbo. May help you in your search. That's all the help I can offer.

Sounding more like the switch is going south on you. Works this time, don't work next time, works another time you try it = switch, usually, but not always. Skip That was good!

Don't know on the list, but the mechanical secondaries mod is in the USRM, or was. Thinking it was SubaruJunkie (Brian) that did it. May be on his site.

You are correct. 2v per cell, 6 cell = 12v. 1 amp charger is a trickle charger, usually they're 2 amp though. Good for maintaning a battery's charge, or for bringing a discharged battery back to life. Personnally, I like the one I have. 2/10 amp, and a 50amp start selection. My method of recharging a dead batery is; Hooking up the charger, to battery 1st, then plug it in. Switch it to the 50 amp setting, until the built in timer kicks it out. Then drop the setting to the 2 amp mode. This "excites" the plates, and makes for a faster, and deeper charge. Atleast that's my belief.

Haven't rebuilt a Soob alt, yet. But they are not that hard to do, hardest part is getting the nut in front of the pulley loosened. Well, parts availability figures in there too. Would recommend that you replace the brushes while you have it apart.