TomRhere

Miles Take that one arm from the XT to a garage (Brents), they should be able to press that pivot bolt out. You know, the one I ground the head and nut off of. If nothing else, press the old bushing out, and pop in a new one, they're not that much in price. Pmed you again on the tranny.

Good write-up, Skip! Suggestion for those who find that it is the ignition switch that is the culprit to the "no crank" problem, and wish to add the push button/relay fix. A plentiful and cheap in cost relay to use, would be the starter relay from an electric start riding lawn mower. It would easily handle the job of switching power to the solenoid on the starter itself. A heavier duty one, would be to use a Ford (please excuse the foul language there) starter relay. One would still need to use a momentary contact switch to activate the relay. But either one would be plentiful, and they come with mounting flanges attached. Just my .02 added.

Will be here on the 23rd of this month. Nice little Christmas present for the Wife. Found it on the Yahoo BRAT Club site. '84 BRAT GL Auto. Has the Hi-Topper, and lots of new parts on it. Such as radiator, exhaust, water pump, and good tires, but no rear seats. Mine, (well, Her's), for $700.00...... I've been looking for a decent shape, decent priced one for a while now. Del, (Wife), has shot down everyone of them, 'cause she didn't think they were worth the asking price. Showed her this one, and she asked me, "Why it wasn't sitting in the driveway yet?". Engine has a bad HG on the Pass side. No biggie there, as I have a good engine and 4 spd D/R tranny in the '86 to swap in. Don't like the Auto tranny, 'specially after reading all of the horror stories about them on here. Have to get my Friend, (who does body work), to help me with swapping in the Fun Roofs from the '86 also. Hate to scrap a BRAT, but the '86 is in way bad condition due to rust. Would just be way to costly to fix her up. So she will donate all of her good parts to the preservation of the '82, and the '84. Even thinking of cutting out the rust prone areas, (wheel wells, rockers, what have you), and sending them to, http://www.alfaparts.net/subaru.html , so that others may benefit from her demise. I will get pics posted in the photo section, just as soon as I can figure out what my password is. Dadburned fuzzy memory!!!! Life, good it is, Yes!!!

Might want to ask this question over on the http://www.xt6.net board too. I got a nice copy of the ECU wiring for the '88 XT-6 engine I have, from there. Couldn't hurt...

The connection for the sending unit was the culprit on my '86. Corroded to badly to fix, so I cut it out, and soldered the wires together. Been working ever since.

Do believe that the shielded wires in the ECU wire loom, are all ready grounded at one of the grounding wires of the harness. You can check that easily enough with a multi-meter or test light. As Miles said, the shield is a braid like that of co-axial cable, and is usually just under the outer jacket of the wire/cable. You only need one end of it grounded. If you ground both ends, you will induce noise into the wire, not eliminate it. You don't want noise in the wire, gives false signals to the ECU. Been studying the wiring diagram I have for the '88 XT-6. It is different than what you have, as far as the coil wires go, but I don't believe that you want to ground that Black lead that you mention. But I have been wrong before.

http://usmb.net/repair/?FileType=Folder&CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f3c69dbce8b26.61439718/ Worked for me.

I've lost count on the number of cars I've seen like that. Owner brings the car to me, says the brakes just started to make noise. Like what?!? You deaf or something?? Don't remember the exact make of car. But one had been ran so long, that it had worn the piston down. Had another that the rear shoes had worn down to just the center rib. One heck of a groove in the drum, almost cut in half. Really like it when someone brings me a car with way iffy brakes. I do them all up right, proper adjustments, and what not. Owner comes to get car, takes off down the road, and screeches to a stop at the stop sign. Well, way short of the stop sign, really. They're so used to driving on iffy brakes, they don't remember what good brakes were.

Been getting that, "you can't lift a subaru" crap here too, everytime I talk to someone about the plans for the BRAT. I just ask them if the have internet access. If the say yes, I give them Scott's web site addy. They usually don't have much flack to give after looking at it. About busted a gut over that diamond-plate waffle marks on the forehead comment. Gotta be some "mean" brakes on that BRAT. I know you have a lot of irons in the fire Scott, but you really need to get your site up-dated.

I used to live in Jackson. Lesbaru, I think you're thinking of Dadeeo, (Terry), he just joined the board. Lives over in Paw Paw, Mi.. There's a couple of people on the XT6.net site from Mi., and a couple more over on the Yahoo BRAT Club. I'll see if I can get them interested in a Meet. Been asking around since the last time we tried this, for a place to go play in the mud around here. Just don't seem to be a happening thing. But I haven't given up on it. Seen to many of those "other makes" of 4X4's covered in mud, so there's got to be a place to do it. I'm open for any week end.

Would also have you re-check the tightness of the axle nut. I've had the axles out of both of my BRAT's , for various reasons. Upon re-installing them, and torqueing the nut to specs, I've found them to be slightly loose after driving around for a while. Bearing(s) not fully seated in the hub, or the axle not fully in all the way is the only thing I can come up with on that one. A good indicator of this is, car wants to steer to one side or the other, when you let off the go-pedal.

I would be interested in a set for the EA-82, and ER-27 myself.

i am here at tom's to pick up my parts. got all that i need for the conversion minus the struts. i need to find a set of impreza/legacy struts. some of the boots re ripped, but i can fix that. i know that the impreza axles are cheaper than ea82 axles. does anybody know how much impreza/legacy struts cost?

you should be able to get away with a 85-86 dist with 2 wires

you all know my story..................

Not sure where it's located, but there's a relay for the rear deffogger. Sounds like it could be your problem. Do you hear any sound of a click, other than the switch when you push it? If not, I'd bet it's the relay.

:slobber:

Now I know I have to get mine done. :slobber: :burnout: (Edited to change subject heading) (Just trying to keep it clean)

I'm done with it, finally. Well almost. Got the rear suspension laying on the garage floor now. Pulled all of the hoses and the pump part of the air-ride system. Got the individual struts off, along with their solenoids. Where's the brain for the air-ride located?? The body shell is now resting on jackstands, with no engine, tranny, front suspension, or rear suspension. Really kinda sad to see it that way. This car is more rusted than I originally thought. About the only parts of the underneath, that aren't all rusted are the main floor section, and the gas tank. Again, I was way surprized at how easy the bolts, holding the rear suspension section in, came out. Broke them loose with the 1/2" drive breaker bar, and spun them out with the 3/8" rachet. Really easy, they were. Going to grab the E-brake cables, and the clutch cable, then I'm totally finished with it.

Don't know much about FI systems, myself, but sounds like it's running lean. Sitting with no hood on it, could've cause some corrosion on the wiring connectors, giving false signals to the ECU. Could be the coolant temp sensor is bad, or faulty. ECU has to know the temp of the engine to give proper pulse timing to the injector(s). Would a bad O2 sensor cause a lean condition? Where as the O2 sensor is telling the ECU that the engine is running rich, causing it to lean-out the engine. Lean air/fuel mixture will cause backfires thru the intake, so can improper ignition timing. Have you checked for vacuum leaks, everywhere?

I hear you , Arch. I didn't pay that much attention to the lower radiator mounts, when I had it out. Therfore, I didn't want to say it was a "bolt-in swap". I'm kinda stuck with the P.O.'s do it my way stuff, but I was stating what I obsereved while doing the re-seal, re-install, of the engine. Would've appreciated it, ifin he'd used the EA-82 flywheel, instead of the EA-81. Apperently, even though this subject comes up more often than not, it ain't worth sticky-ing, or archiveing, ( do we still have an archive?). I will do my best to document the swap over in my '82 from the current engine, (EA-82), to the EA-27 MPFI engine. Shouldn't be any differance in doing it ifin you have the EA-81 engine to start with. Don't normally do this, but........................... '82 BRAT ER-27 MPFI D/R 5spd :headbang: :headbang: :headbang: ROCKS!!!!!!!!!

Yep, they be fast! Got the '88 XT-6, Miles and I bought for parts, running last weekend. Took it for a short test drive. YeeHaaa!! Got parts available here too. Engine, ECU, tranny, rear diff, seats, and 5-bolt lug stuff are spoken for. But other things are available. The air suspension on this one works!! Body color is Black, interior is a Dark Gray and sort of a Brown felt type stuff. I'll be stripping more out of it this weekend, mainly the rear suspension. Once I'm done with getting the pieces that Miles and I want, the body is up for grabs to anyone that wants it. There's no Title for it, and the underside of it is way rusted, so it's only good for parts. Would really like to sell it as one piece, rather than this piece, that piece, so on and so forth. I need my garage back! It will need to be hauled out on a flatbed trailer, as there's no way to put tires on it now. Email, or PM me for more info.

Miles posted some of this already, but I'll contribute what I found out, and know. I did not do the engine swap, but I did pull the engine, and do a re-seal on it. Same, or close to doing the swap. This is on/in an '82 BRAT, which still has the D/R 4 Spd tranny. Upon re-installing the engine, I found that the disty should be left out, and re-installed afterwards. The Hill-Holder, (ifin you have one), should be moved rearwards the distance of the mounting holes for it. And you need to tweak the front most lines on it. Being very carefull, not to kink them. The wires to the disty need to be lengthened, or you will need to move the disty to the Driver's side of the engine. That involves more wiring mods, than just lenghtening the disty wires. Upon installing the engine, you'll want to leave the motor mounts loose at the engine block. This will help to get the studs into the slots in the crosmember. You can then tighten the mounts to the engine. Before you tighten the mounts to the crossmember, be sure to check that the engine is centered between the frame-rails. It will be close, not much more than a 1/4" per side. The Vacuum Advance unit on the Disty will hit the Master Cylinder, if you try to go past halfway of the slot for the lock-down bolt. This really doesn't seem to be of any concern, as mine is still in the forward half of the slot. I'm setting Ignition timing by ear, due to the next paragraph. Please, save yourself, and/or the next owner some headaches. Use the EA-82's flywheel!!!! It has the T-belt timing marks, and the Ignition timing marks are not in the same position, either. You can transfer the marks over to the EA-81 flywheel, But Why??!?!?? Just use the EA-81's clutch disc, pilot and throw-out bearing, ifin you're using the 4 Spd, while using the EA-82's flywheel and pressure plate. There may be a difference on the bottom mounts for the EA-82/81 radiators, I do know that the top mounting points are different. My radiator support has been re-drilled to fit the EA-82's radiator. Other than that, the hoses, and thermo-switch for the fan(s) are the same. The radiator cap, appears to be in a different locale, but it ain't no biggy. The radiator hoses are trimmed to fit their respective runs. Ifin you have the waterpump mounted fan on your EA-82, you may want to leave it off. There is only 1/4" to 3/8" between it and the radiator. Makes me nervous!!!!!! The originator of this swap in my BRAT, shortened the housing for the accelerator cable, then lengthened the cable itself. Why, I don't know. Made the Weber swap that much more fun. NOT!!! About all can think of right now..............

On the contrary there Miles. The EA-82 in the BRAT has that pin, and so does the ER-27. Both of which are non-turbo engines. As for the pin. You can drive it back out, but that means taking of the drive sprocket. Or you an go get another one from a hardware store. Would guess that an 1/8" or 3/16" would fit. Doubt ifin they would have any Metric sized ones.

Yea, I did! You got all 4 Aluminum rims. Must be a bead leak in the one that was off when it sat at Brents. I pumped it up Saturday before the test drive, lasted until late Sunday before it was way low. Didn't see anything in the tread area, as far as nail or whatever. I dropped the whole front suspension out, you'll have to deal with getting off what you want off of it. Just wanting to get it stripped off the major parts we want, so I can get it out of my garage. I popped the axles off the trans, so they're still on the hubs. Think we should take this to PM's ifin you want to continue.