TomRhere

Need a test light to do this, or a multi-meter. Sorry, I don't have color code of wires for this. At the wiper motor connector, with key on wipers off; you should have battery power on one lead. This is the power feed to park the wipers. Turn the wipers to low; you should have power at one of the other feeds. Put the wipers on high; you should have power on the last of the wires. This will rule out the switch and wiring, and point you to the motor as being bad. I take it that they are working on the low setting?!? This would tend to rule out the ground as being suspect. PS: I'll see about next week end, but no promise of being there. PSS: Let you know on the other, give me a day or two.

On my '82, ones between the battery and the radiator support, the other is on the front of the radiator support, driver's side, behind grille. Check the fuse also, but both of the horns had corroded connections at the horn itself. One barely worked, other one didn't. Real funky terrible sounding tooter.

Was under the impression that the Wagon driveshaft was a direct swap-in on a BRAT. Guess not. Best way I know of measuring for a driveshaft is to slide the front yoke into the tranny, stopping just as the brighter of the shinny part enters the seal. Now measure from the rear diff flange to the center of the u-joint cap on the yoke that's in the tranny. This is your over-all length. Take the driveshaft and your measurement to the shop, tell them exactly how you determined the measurement. They should be able to do the shortening from that info. I have had many driveshafts made over the years, and have used this method to get the length needed, be it a one, or two piece shaft.

Yes it is. The torque is only something like 6 or 8 ft lb, not much oomph on the wrench at all. Possibility of splitting the rubber if you go to tight. With no torque wrench, I would recommend to whatch the rubber part of the seal as you tighten the bolt, stop when you see it start to squish. May have to snugg them a bit later on down the road.

Like I said, didn't know. Neither of mine are PS equipped, and I haven't looked that hard at one that was.

If you're talking about the tracks, then yes, you can swap them from DS seat to PS seat, for use on the DS. If they are tiltable seats, your control will be on the wrong side, but that doesn't hurt anything. Just takes getting used to.

Don't know for sure, but thinking that the mount points would be there, as most of the other option stuff has the mounting holes there. Never paid attention to that when I had engine out of mine. As far as hoses go. The return line is a no-pressure line. Therefore, you can just run a length of fuel/oil resistant hose and clamp it at both ends. Would recommend double clamps, each end. Should be able to get the pressure line fabbed up at any place that makes up hydraulic hoses. Would be benificial to have the old hose as a guide though.

That will work. Could even splice into that wire for the switch on the radiator, run it into a switch on the dash, then to a good ground. Read a few posts on here of guys doing that. Few years ago, I had a 3/4T Ford 4X4 351W/C6 Auto. Had to put an electric fan on it due to clearance issues. Only time I had to flip the switch for the fan was when I sat in-line at the Bank's drive-thru. Short stops at idle, or driving down the road, you really don't need the fan.

They go ape over no rear bumper here too. Totally Redneck, but some people just bolt a 2X6 across the mounts. Cops don't say much about it, bumper only needs to withstand a 5mph impact. And no, you can't drive it like a Corvette. You can drive it better than one. 'Vettes can't easily accelerate out of a rear slide, whereas our Subaru's can. 'Tis cool that you only got a fix-it ticket out of it. Could of got you for a whole lot more.

The thermatic switch in the radiator does just what you said; Turns the fan on at 1??* temperature. It is the ground for the fan circuit. Therefore you have to insure a good electrical connection between the radiator and the battery -. You can check the fan operation by grounding that wire going to the switch; to the body, or the battery. There should be a wire attached to the upper stiffening rail of the radiator, and going to the body. It's just a short length of wire. Even if the wire looks ok, there could be corrosion at either end of it. Break the attaching screws loose and retighten them. You won't have good continuity thru the switch until the engine gets to about 3/4 of the guage. Atleast that's when the one in my BRAT comes on. Hope this helps.

I would strongly recomend that you change the ball joint. Reason being, if you hit something hard enough to bend the control arm, chances are you have stressed the ball joint and it could fail on you. Sure it may "feel ok", but you can't feel stress fractures.

In re-grinding a cam, they usually make the base circle diameter of the lobe smaller, and grind the sides of the lobe different to achieve the desired profile. Remember reading about some places that even weld more metal onto the cam lobe, regrind the lobes, then re-heat treat (anneal) the cam. Don't think I would like that done on my cam, but that's just me.

'Member reading that you would use 1-7/8" on an NA EA-81, and 2" on an NA EA-82, just can't remember where I read it. I used 2" in making mine for the '82 with the EA-82 in it, because it was real close to the exhaust port opening size, and sounded like the right thing to do. Can't say if it cost me any low-end torque, as it's the only EA-82 powered vehicle I've driven. Exhaust was shot when I bought the BRAT, so I couldn't drive it until I did the exhaust. I can say that I like how the engine feels while driving, compared to my '86 with the EA-81, even moreso with the Weber on it now. I'm going to get myself in trouble with the cops, ifin I don't stop mashing the loud pedal while running thru the gears. Just can't help it though. 2" duals, no cross connection, Xcelerator free-flowing Turbo mufflers. Gotta love it!!!!!!!

I take then that the sleeve's can not be replaced. Anyone one with an answer as to why they can't? Just curious is all. Remember someone on here saying he had .050 over pistons for his. That would jump the CC's up a bit. Got a set of MPFI heads here, with a bad crack between the valves in one cylinder. It's big enough that the valve seat came out. Wonder if those could be repaired?!?

Well, you said you were going to bookmark my thread on the Weber install, most of the problems were covered in that. A few things that weren't mentioned; You'll have to space the throttle cable adapter, off of the Hitachi, out a bit on the Weber. It will hit against the control rod for the choke if you don't. You may or may not need a Fuel Pressure Regulator, I did. I used one of the extra hose barbs from the FPR, to run the fuel return line on the Weber. The one from the Hitachi wanted to leak a bit. I used the bracket that held the wire for the Oil Pressure sending unit, for my throttle return spring. I removed the bracket from where it was mounted, flipped so it would fit over the T-belt cover, and mounted it on one of the T-belt cover bolts. This put the spring in-front of and below the cable adapter, as well as in-line with it. Have to drill a small hole to fit the spring on the cable adapter. May have problem getting throttle cable mounting bracket aligned with the cable adapter on the carb. It needs to be as close to in-line as possible, to prevent binding of cable. I didn't use the one from the Weber kit, used the one that was on the engine, but it's not the stock one as far as I know. Be prepared for some initial start-up problems. May not happen to you, but it could. I don't think my Weber liked it's cross-country trip. It was a bit rough, the carb wasn't setting in the box the way they had ment it to be. Box wasn't damaged, but the contents sure got shook-up. All I can think of right now. Good luck, and enjoy............... edit: Had to go find it again. Excelent info on Webers. http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/retrofitting_the_weber_dgav_32.htm

Been discussed here on the board before. Lot's for, lot's against doing it. I haven't done a Subaru trans as of yet, but I have done other manual trans with the ATF flush, using Dextron II. Drain lube, refill with ATF. Either go for short drive 5 miles or so, or place vehicle on jackstands let run in gear, shifting gears occasionally. Drain and refill with gear lube. Chevy/GMC even recommended using a 1/2 pint of ATF in the older 4 speed trannies, to help ease the winter cold induced stiff shifter syndrome. Friend of mine, a big truck mechanic, recommends putting STP oil treatment in manual trans and diffs at lube changes. Swears by it. I haven't done that as of yet. Just my .02

Thought that it was a loose nut behind the wheel?!??!! Oh Well.

Eons ago, I had a County Deputy hassle me about my Chevy 1/2 ton with a flat bed. Every Wednesday he'd stop me, in just about the same stretch of road. Just wanted to see my registration is all. Tells me the truck is improperly registered because it has a flat bed instead of a box. But it's really still a 1/2 ton truck. Secretary of State even said so, unless I swap in a bigger axle. This went on for a month or so. Finally told him to stop harassing me, or I would go talk to the Sherrif. He stopped me again the following week. He about messed himself the next day, when as he was walking out of the Office, I was walking in. Even had a copy of the regulations regarding the trucks registration with me. No more hassles from the Deputy. Had a State Trooper stop me for alledgedly speeding. Said he had me clocked @ 64mph, and the car infront of me @ 55mph. Asked him how that could be, as I had been the same distance behind that car since we both made the turn off of US-12, 5 miles back. Honest.... We bickered for 5 minutes or so, then he let me go. Sometimes it helps to stand firm in your beliefs, and argue with Authority types.

Bought a complete valve-grind gasket set thru the local parts store, around $125.00. Had every gasket in it from the head gasket out, for carbed, SPFI, MPFI, and Turbo gaskets, including the cam seals. Performance Automotive, part of the Bumper-to-Bumper chain.

It's possible that you popped a head gasket. But improperly timed cams will give you low compression reading also. If you can get a portable airtank, put the fitting for your comp tester in the suspected plug hole, then add air. Listen for air at oil fill, exhaust pipe, intake, and watch for bubbles in the radiator. You will want to have the piston as close to TDC as you can get it. I use a pencil in the plug hole to find TDC

I would suggest some sort of insulating material between the bracket and line, to prevent chaffing of the line. In running new fuel and brake lines, even running new wiring for lights or whatever, I take a short section of hose and split it lenghtwise, wrap it around the line or wires, then fasten it at that point. When wiring up a trailer, I use garden hose as a conduit for the wires, and staple that to the underside of the floor of the trailer. Saves headaches down the road. Just my .02

1st answer. Sounds as if you need to adjust the clutch cable. from your discription, one would take it as the clutch is not fully releasing. 2nd answer. Does sound like bad motor mount. Easy way to check is to place jack under oil pan, with a block of wood between pan and jack. Raise jack up untill you contact pan, then try lifting engine slightly, repeat -slightly- don't force it up, while watching the mounts for un-wanted movement. Usually, you can spot a bad mount without using a jack, but it helps to find the weak ones. Would also give the pitching stopper link a good looking over. About all I can think of right now.

Have simular problem in the '82. Heavy rain, nose parked facing up-hill, I get a wet driverside floor. Haven't pulled the cowling grill yet, but thinking that either the factory sealing putty came loose, or I have a rust hole in the duct under the cowl. Kinda funny, the Wife's '95 Grand Am does the same thing, only with the nose down-hill. Just one of those things that makes you go Hmmmmmm!!!!

Been alot of discusion on this, back and forth, yea and nay. It helps to have it, no it don't help to have it. As far as engine performance goes. I didn't have to much choice in the decision to remove my cat, it did it itself. So, in order to remedy the "no exaust system" problem. I built my own 2" dual system, no cats, free-flowing turbo mufflers. Don't know if I lost any torque in doing so, but I can say that she'll get up and go. Especially now that the Weber is on her. http://www.discountconverters.com has a 2" dual inlet/outlet converter listed in their online catalog, you have to call for pricing, and I haven't yet. But there's a converter available if you feel the need, or your area requires one. They even have one listed that resembles the stock Subaru one, only with larger inlet/outlet, thinking it's 2" also. Can say that the stock Subaru exhaust system itself is restrictive as all get out. Let the engine breath easier, and you get better performance and gas mileage. You want to relieve back-pressure, some is good, to much is bad. And yes, Time to retire that old fuel filter.....

Talking on an EA-82 engine here. I used the little bracket that holds the wire for the oil pressure sender, to hold the throtle return spring. I removed the bracket from where it was, flipped it a bit, then bolted it to one of the T-belt cover bolts. This put the spring in front of the carb, and down lower than what I've seen on other swaps. I still have to drill a small hole in the throttle linkage on the carb to fit the spring, just have it hooked on it for now. I had a time of it with the throttle cable myself. It's been shorten by previous owner. Haven't figured out why yet. Anyways, getting the cable in-line with the linkage on the carb was a slight pain. Finally just whacked the bracket with a hammer. Whala, she be in line now. Have to get to the local yard and get me a proper lenght throttle cable soon. Where this one is attached to the mount bracket, it won't let me set the choke, and I can get full WOT with the go pedal. Everything works properly if I do it from under the hood. So that just leaves the cable length, and it's mounting point, as the culprits. I did have a clearance problem where the Hitachi's throttle linkage fastens to the Weber carb. Wanted to hang on one of the rods for the choke. I just added washers between it until it cleared the rod. Thinking that vacuum line you mentioned is for your heater controls. If the air won't come out of any of the other ducts besides the vent ones, You may want to hook that back up. Really love the differance that the Weber made on mine. Snappier throttle response, better gas milage. Did take some of the bark out of the exhaust, but that will help keep the cops off my tail.