TomRhere

It's not the lenght of the package, it's the total girth that gets you. Wrap a tape measurer around the width of it, then around the lenght of it. Add these two together, and you get your total girth. Just went thru this myself sending out a box to get the bed trim sent back to me in. The guy I bought the '82 from, found the entire trim for the bed, and wanted to know if I wanted it. Had to think on that for a milli-second. Just thought I'd throw that package measurement on here for future use.......

Brian... Yes I did. Well, from carbsunlimited.com anyway. Genuine Redline Weber kit for a Subaru with the Hitachi carb. Now for the bad part... Didn't get it put on as planned last night. Was making room for the BRAT, out in the garage, when the Wife came out. Had to stop what I was doing and go do other things. But, I'll get it on there today, even if I have to do it at work. Bossman is understanding that way. Lets the Maintenance Department do things that most shops won't even consider thinking about. Miles... No snow, seen a few flakes though. Been down right cold though, for early October anyway. Frost on the windows yesterday Am. Not supposed to be this cold yet!!! But that's just my opinion. Got the feeling it's going to be a nasty winter here this year, just going by what the rest of the year was, is all. Been one wierd year weather wise. And I still have a ton of things to do outside before the snow does start to fly..........

Just heard a noise out on the back porch, went to check on it. Lo and behold, the Weber is here. Yipee! Yahoo! Can you say, YeeeeeeeeHaaaaaaaaaaaaa!!!!??! Can you guess what I'm heading out the door to do? Later..........

You got mail

On brake bleeding... These systems are cross plumed, DS front-PS rear, PS front-DS rear On the rummble... I would be checking the torque of the axle nut on that side, sounds like the axle nut is loose. Does it want to swerve a little when you let of the gas? If so, good sign of loose axle nut. Torque is 140 ft lb on those. On the eccessive gas... Not really sure on that one, but something is definetly wrong there. Never seen gas come out of the evap canister, on any vehicle. Why did you have a fuel pump installed under the hood? Maybe the pump has to much pressure, should be around 3-5 pounds IIRC. I don't have anything on the vacuum line routing, but others here have. I take it that the under hood decal is missing?!?.......

http://www.importpartsauthority.com I just went there and checked on your parts. They list only one inner Tie-rod for power steering. They list two for manual steering, Variable is 4.8 turns lock-to-lock, standard is 4 turns lock-to-lock. According to them anyway. I haven't ordered anything from them, yet, so I can't give a yea or nay on them. Got a few places on my supplier list, they just happen to break it down better as far as part id.....

buyasianparts.com is where I got them from. Eng mnt = $78.41 ea., tran mnt = $33.90 ea. Must say that the eng mnts are for the EA-82, and the tran mnts are for the EA-81 4spd. Always fun mixing up parts orders that way, had lots of experience over the years. Had me some genuine Frankenstien vehicles.....

Yep, you'll need the exhaust gaskets. Would recommend replacing all the seals, IE; front/rear crank, camshaft. Would replace or reseal oil pump, replace water pump, timing belts, and tensioners if they don't spin freely, or if they have any wobble to them. Just best to do all of this while the engine is out of the car, than to need to do it afterwards is all.....

Tranny and engine mounts arrived yesterday. Carb is sitting in Illinios this AM. It should be sitting where it belongs, not in Illinios. She's really getting difficult to drive now, I need that carb, Real pain to keep her running when first started, choke never did work right, but I could hold it at a fast idle for a few minutes, and be on my way. Now, it's crank crank crank, cough cough spit sputter spit cough die, crank cough spit sputter sputter sputter. Then she'll stay running , well, maybe. Having to do the heel-toe bit on the gas and brakes is a pain, 'specially thru town with all the stop lights and stop signs. I need my Weber!!!!!!!..........

Yes, you can relocate it to the rear. You'll have to extend the wiring for it. I would run it along the fuel and brake lines, using zip-ties to hold it secure to the lines. Bit of a pain to do, but use an awl to make a hole thru the rubber grommet at any point that you have to pass thru a panel, like the firewall. Solder all splices in the wiring, and use shrink wrap over the splice. Saves the headache of corroding splice joints. Definetly use an inline filter between tank and pump!! Use the existing set-up under the hood, as far as the filter goes, and use a section of fuel line hose in place of where the pump was. Mount the pump so it is secure, and out of harms way from things like rocks, tree limbs and such....

My '82 has the EA-82 engine in it. Had A/C on the engine. Compressor mounted in-board of the Altenator. No P/S either. Belt used for waterpump and altenator is a Goodyear Gatorback 15411. Hope this helps.....

PMed you

Mine is $339.11 total, on it's way to my door as I type this. From carbsunlimited.com...............

Not saying that "this is the place to buy them from". But go here http://www.discountconverter.com Check out what they have to offer, and see if anything meets your needs.....

http://www.carbsunlimited.com/Weber/Dataresults3.asp?Kit_Nbr=K731&Model=ALL%20,%20INCLUDING%20BRAT This be where I ordered mine from.....

Been giving this some consideration since the thread was first posted. Ok, talked myself into it. Put me down for one for now. May order another one at later date. I do have 2 BRATs after all. Besides, wouldn't want one of them to feel left out. KWIM,V.....

I like this set-up. Stealth jams... Not much into the thump-thump sound myself, but I do like a good sounding system, be it a home system or in-car system. 'Specially if it's jamming some ZZ Top... As for the fiberglass insulation... Got any construction sites around you? You could probally get some small pieces for the trouble of asking... On sealing up the enclosure... As mentioned previously, you need to "vent" the inside of the box to the outside of the box. Take a look at any good speaker enclosure, you'll find the venting method. Be it holes in the back panel, or a vent tube routed to the front behind the cover/grille. With out the "vent", your speaker is fighting itself to move. IE; when it moves forward, it's creating a vacuum of sorts behind it. When it moves towards the magnet, it's trying to compress the air behind it. No worky to good with out vent. Distorted sounds. Also, proper polarity of speaker wiring is key to good sound too. Reversed polarity will give distortion to some of the frequencies of the sound waves. Be them highs or lows. Just some info picked up over the years there is all......

Ball park figure on what it would cost? May have mine done after the Weber's on the "82 so I can use it on the '86.......

http://www.rustrepair.com/app2/onlinecat.htm?p=sm-subaru They list 2 tanks there. P/N 360-85-110 w/o FI $138.98, and P/N 360-85-111 W/ FI $149.47 plus S&H charges. Site says they are for 80-94 Sedan/wagon..............

http://www.carbsunlimited.com/Weber/Dataresults3.asp?Kit_Nbr=K731&Model=ALL%20,%20INCLUDING%20BRAT That be where I ordered mine from..............

Can't say as to how often the EA-81's will lose a HG, but any HG is subject to blowing. Are you losing coolant, oil? Have you done a compression test? Bubbles, or oil, in the coolant, is a good sign of bad HG. Also steam out of the exhaust pipe, is a major sign of bad HG. Should see if a local repair shop will do a sniffer test on your coolant system. This will show if you have combustion by-products in there. If so, HG is toast......

Do believe that the clutch can be changed without evacuating the system, but not 100% on that. Chances are that they won't swap between makes............

Damn I hates when that happens. Done it 3 times in my life. 1st was '73 Pinto, scared the on-coming traffic more than it did me. They were all hitting the ditch. Wasted the windshield, and new wiper blades. 2nd time, was in Kentucky. Ran outta go juice on the hiway. Walked down to the next exit got a can of gas and walked back. Didn't notice that someone had tried to open the hood of my Ford truck. Those things had a trick to open them. Anyways, get truck going, and bam, hood flies up. Didn't hurt windshield, but mangled hood and hinges. Get home, pull hood striaghten it out, replaced hinges. Head for work next day, Bam, hood flies up again. Didn't break the windshield, but it left a paint streak up the middle of it. Tied the hood down and went to work. Next day got to looking things over. Who ever tried to open the hood, had used a prybar on the latch, and bent it. Said the "H' with it. Removed damaged higes, and latch. Got some heavy duty door type hinges and a lock hasp. Put the hinges on the passenger side of hood and fender, hasp on driver side. Clamshell hood! Redneck as all get out, but I didn't care.........

Tried different approaches on doing the axle swap, found this to be easiest. When you get to the point of axle nut removed, car on jackstands, wheel off, pin removed, and axle given the starting whack or two for removale purposes...... I remove the pinch bolt in the knuckle for the ball-joint, then use an old shovel handle laid across the rod that's behind the control arm, and under the engine crossmember. This lets you separate the knuckle from the control arm, when you push down on the shovel handle. Then I turn the steering wheel towards the side I'm working on, this gives you enough free room to remove the axle from the hub, when you swing out the hub assembly. You will need to remove the E-brake cable from the lever and bracket, too. You don't have to remove the tie-rod from the knuckle, nor do you need to remove the ball joint from the control arm. Control arm stays attached to the car, along with all the goodies bolted to it. This way, other than the axle nut and cotter pin, lug nuts and wheel, you're only removing one bolt and one clip for the E-brake cable, the cable itself, and the axle pin. OH, and of course, the axle...........

Tried different approaches on doing the axle swap, found this to be easiest. When you get to the point of axle nut removed, car on jackstands, wheel off, pin removed, and axle given the starting whack or two for removale purposes...... I remove the pinch bolt in the knuckle for the ball-joint, then use an old shovel handle laid across the rod that's behind the control arm, and under the engine crossmember. This lets you separate the knuckle from the control arm, when you push down on the shovel handle. Then I turn the steering wheel towards the side I'm working on, this gives you enough free room to remove the axle from the hub, when you swing out the hub assembly. You will need to remove the E-brake cable from the lever and bracket, too. You don't have to remove the tie-rod from the knuckle, nor do you need to remove the ball joint from the control arm. Control arm stays attached to the car, along with all the goodies bolted to it. This way, other than the axle nut and cotter pin, lug nuts and wheel, you're only removing one bolt and one clip for the E-brake cable, the cable itself, and the axle pin. OH, and of course, the axle...........