TomRhere

As to the weak horn issue. Check the electrical connections at the horns themselves, looking for that nice green color. Found that to be the problem on both of the BRATs. You need to clean the connections if you find them corroded. Going to try that clock repair myself, as both clocks don't keep time when I shut off the key.......

Just going by the original carb for my '82's original engine, and comparing it to the one on the engine in it now. Yes, it would be an upgrade. Old carb = Carter Weber, carb now = Hitachi, or single barrel vs progressive 2 barrel. Gotta make a difference to the + side, I would think........

Well, I ordered it today. Also went ahead and ordered me some tranny and engine mounts for it. Tim,... I've read about the inconsistancies with the kits. Bolt holes not quite right, wrong bolts, not fitting the opening of the manifold exactlly, so on and so forth. I'm prepared for that stuff. Don't have power steering, so that's no problem there. My linkage has already been modded to fit the EA-82 engine and carb, so we'll see what's up there. Bratwerst,... Oh I'm hoping she moves with the Weber. She didn't do to bad with the Hitachi, before it went south on me. Had it's querks, but she'd go when you hit the go pedal. Or should I say loud pedal, as Skip does, 'cause the duals do like to talk when you mash the pedal. Kewl to see another member of the BRAT club on this board, I know of one other, possibly two, on here that's a regular of both sites. I don't have to many different handles. Hard enough to keep track of passwords, let alone what one goes to which name. Getting to old to remember to much stuff.....

Damn that sucks!! Moose is hell on vehicle, worse than deer!! Good to hear you're okay!! On another note...Is there a 2.5 RS BRAT in your future? I know I would ifin it were me, but that's just me...........

why not order one of these, http://www.discountconverter.com/converters/images/8015.gif and have a shop bend up some pipes, hang 2 mufflers and be a "Happy camper". Smog nazi's will be happy, trees will be happy, everybody will be happy..........

Total kewlness!! Ordering from carbsunlimited.com, so I should be all set in that department. Can hardly wait either, she's getting tempermental as all get out with these cool mornings. Just plain don't want to run 'till she warms up a bit. Thanks for all the info, guys.....

There's another board member here from Kentucky, up in Midway, which is by Lexington. Thinking his handle is 4wheeling2, but haven't seen him on here in awhile. Thinking he may be able to give you a hand, if you can contact him. Might go back to the old board and see if you could locate a thread with him in it, get his bio info, then send him an email. Couldn't hurt...

Same thing here on my '82. Put a new axle in on the PS, old one had torn boot, and was complaining about being used. Got the new one in, nut torqued to specks, wheel bearings are new, brakes are in like new condition. Now, I sill have a grummbling sound from that side when under acceleration, especially if turning corner at same time. Not 100%, but thinking it may have to do with the motor and tranny mounts being old and in need of replacement. Those are next on the I need it list, right after the Weber carb conversion......

Getting stuff in your eye sucks, even if it is just grease. I have to wear glasses just to be able to see, so I don't even think of needing safety glasses. One should always wear eye protection when working on the rides. On another note...Yes, the outer joint is called none servicable, but it can be disassembled. It's just a major PITA to do so. I have rebuilt them in the past, but don't reccommend it to anyone. Major, Total PITA......

So, I need to order a Weber carb with the Hitachi adapter kit for the EA-82 engine?! I take it that the carb will already be properly jetted and such, yes/no?! Now for that Accel Super Stock coil and plug re-gap, already have 7mm solid core plug wires on her. Guess I should be getting a new heater core and shut-off valve for it also, starting to get chilly here in the early AM......

My CFO, has given the nod of approvail for the purchase of a Weber carb for the '82. What info do I need to give them when I order the carb, other than it's for a OHC 1.8L Subaru engine? Thanks in advance for the input. I be a Happy Camper now!!!!....

Where's Noah when you need him? Think he changed his handle for the new board, was going by Oh Noah on the old board, not sure but thinking it's CIS Subaru now. Anyway, he used a spider intake when doing the CIS conversion on his '86 Wagon. Talked to him in person and don't recall him saying anything about wiring issues for the spider intake. Just looked at his article in the repair manual, under Subaru Mods, and no mention there either. Thinking that you would want to keep your disty, as it is working with the computer in the car, the XT one may not. You will probally have to go bracket hunting to do your AC, as I'm sure that the brackets will be different where they mount to the manifold, if it even does......

Bit annoying isn't it!!! My '82 does the same thing. Haven't looked into it yet, may try to get to it this weekend and post back here with my findings. Have 2 other vehicles scheduled for repairs first, so it may be later Sunday.......

If memory serves me correctly, the inner joint is held onto the shaft by a circlip, it will pop-off with a strike from a hammer and punch. The outer joint is held on with a external snap-ring, you have to disassemble the joint itself to get to the snap-ring, that's a real PITA!!!! I prefer to just beat the thing off of the axle, it was junk anyway, right?! Put the axle on the floor with joint at it's most extreme angle, then whack it with the hammer. The inner cage should break in 2-3 blows. Just be mindfull of where your ankle and shins are located when doing this, could be painfull......

Window repair is more a PITA that it is anything else, usually 'cause they don't give enough access room to do any work thru. One possibility here is that one of the roller guides on the mechanism has either broke, or came out of it's track. There are 2 types of regulators used on the windows, mechanical scissor type, and a plastic zipper type. Strippage of the gear teeth, or the zipper is a possibility, 'specially if you hear any clicking noise when trying to put window up. Possibility of a bolt/rivet has came loose and allowed the piece to move off kilter. About all you can do to troubleshoot it, is to pull the door trim off, and do a thurough inspection of the components. A bit difficult to do armchair diagnosis on it, but there's somethings to look for.....

If the car is still drivable, take it to the local carwash to clean it off. You can get 90% of the crud off and out of the engine compartment area. If you're pulling the engine afterwards, you can use a foaming oven cleaner,(just don't leave it on to long, it will attack the aluminum). Used some Kingsford grill cleaner on Jim's (86subaru) engine when we did the reseal on it, seemed to work real good. Also, if the engine is out, you can use some kerosene to clean it. I have half of a plastic 55 gallon drum for a parts cleaning tub, works well for Sube engines.......

When you have a crank ground, the bearing size will be "undersized" by the amount the crank was ground, not oversized. If you have the block bored out, then the pistons will have to be "oversized" by the amount that you removed from the block. On the crank, if you have an engine shop check it, Mic it out, you may not have to have it ground. It may just need to be polished, just depends on it's overall condition. I've rebuilt a few engines over the years, some with rod knock being the main reason for doing so. Some of the cranks were shot and needed reground, some just needed polished up. Just my .02.......

If you head West, out of Fort Worth towards Euless, on Jacksborrow(sp) Hwy, off of 820, you'll find a yard. Don't recall how far out it was, would be on the southside of the road. Decent watering hole right next to it too. Not saying they have Subes, but it's worth a look. My Baby Sister lives right next door to this yard, I could ask her about it and other yards, and let you guys know. I was in that yard, but was needing Dodge Daytona stuff at the time, and didn't own a 'Ru then. Been about 4 years since I was there, memory is starting to fade on me......

That, and then find out what the Tractor Pull guys use to mate up all those exta engines they use in the Super Modified Class. On another note...Hot Rod Magazine did a dual engines small Caddy. Both trans were autos, and of different gearing. Don't quite remember how they did the rear tranny's linkage, but they had all the engine monitoring devices, tucked away in the glove box. Think the shop that did the conversion had to add an extra foot to the rear quarters to cover the set-up. Looked good from the pics. Been a few years ago......

Ok, my '82 has an EA-82 carbed engine. Thinking that the carb is the Hitachi 2-barrel, just going by the pics in the Haynes manual. Having problems now with getting it to idle, this just started to be a problem. Did a 30 mile round trip, no problem. Went to take oldest Son home, 1 1/2 mile trip, and she won't idle. Appears to be that the float is sticky. Looking down the bore, I can see drops of gas from the feed tubes. Would like to put a Weber on it, but lacking that kind of money right now. So, I'm thinking rebuild here. What info do I need to order a rebuild kit for this carb? Are there numbers on it, hidden somewhere I can't see? I have no info on what car this engine came out of, other than it was a wagon. I can get it to stay running, if I turn the idle speed up to 1200rpm's, don't like that, and I still have gas dripping from the feed tubes. Also, always has been a problem on a 1st gear wind-out. Starts wanting to cut-out and sputter when nearing 5-6000 rpm's. Runs in that Rpm range fine in other gears. I've even pegged the speedo, and was still climbing on the tach, with no engine problems. All ignition components are new, sans coil. All fuel filters are new also. I've put 3000 miles on her since the re-seal of the engine, (after initial purchase of car), and getting her road legal. Haven't checked my fuel mileage yet, thinking it's on the low side, as my exhaust tips are black, as in running rich. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Sorry about the lenght of this.......

May be personal prefferance, but I think they're comfortable. Owned a few cars with manual trans, and put the Hurst T-handle on them. On another note, gotta 8-ball for the shiftknob on my '82. Like it alot, just feels right.....

Not saying that this is your rattle, but very well could be. Sounds as if your cat is failing you. The media of the cat is sorta like a porous block of material. It can and will start to deteriorate, mainly around the outter edges. When this happens it will vibrate inside of the case, especially after it heats up. Brothers T-bird did this, and Daughters Grand Am did too. Although her's was the resonator after the cat. Punched the stuff outta both of them, no more rattles. Just a thought here......

I can't for the life of me remember the name of the stuff right now. But yes, there is a repair adhesive for doing that. Should be able to pick it up at your local parts store, or maybe an auto glass shop. I've done that repair myself, been a few years. There's also a paint-on repair for bad heat strips on the defogger grid.......

What Caleb says works, and is my chosen method of setting timing, especially on older high mileage cars. On another note, the engine in my '82 is a carbed engine, but the hold-down bolt for the disty is just to the left of center in the slot. I have to set the timing "by ear", and by the "no more pinging" methods, due to the engine having a re-drilled EA-81 flywheel instead of the EA-82 one. Everything is off, timing marks, no T-belt marks ("FUN"), what have you. Just asking here, are you sure the T-belts are right, as in proper cam timing? Reason for asking is, I had mine off a bit, she'd start and run, but didn't like to rev up to well. Just my .02 worth..................

One method I've used is to purchase an aftermarket fuseable terminal strip. They come in different counts from one place up to twelve, and take the glass fuses. Depending on the size that you get, run one or two hot leads in from the battery, to the strip, and jumper a few fuses to each lead. You can even have a couple that are key "hot". Any wires that you run thru the firewall, please use a grommet on any hole you drill. You can poke a hole thru one of the existing grommets with an awl. I've used the ones for the existing main wire loom, heater/ac lines. or any blank ones that are found. I've always used a 12ga wire for main feed to the strip, running more than one if I feel the total load may require it, and I zip tie them to the existing wire loom. Placement of the fuse strip is a personnal choice, mainly ease of wiring and access are the determining factors. Kick panels work good, even put one in a glovebox, but that one was roomy enough. Haven't given any thought to this on either BRAT, yet, so I can't give any 'Ru specific locales. For driving/fog lights, I would recommend using a relay mounted under the hood for wiring the lights, and run the control wires into the switch(es). In-line fuse, or a self-resetting breaker would be good for those too. Just a few thoughts on this................