TomRhere

Not 100% here on how Subaru does theirs. But on most cars, the Driver's window controls are the Master Switches. Meaning you can put the window up, even if the brat in the backseat is trying to put it down in the middle of a blizzard. Could be something went amiss with that switch console. Also, make sure that you haven't inadvertantly hit the "lock" button, for the window controls. This disables the other switches until you "unlock" them. Gotten repair calls that turned out to be just that. Made the owners feel real small, D'OH!!! On another note... Glad to hear that our day of wrenching on that car turned out good. Also, that your worries on the tranny were answered in a good way. What have you found out about the noise from the brakes? Just rusty from setting, or are they in need of service? Later.....

Yes.... Always wear Safety Glases, and/or a face shield, 'specially when grinding, regardless of grinding tool/equipment used. In my many years in this proffesion, I have definetly had a piece or two of steel in my eyes. Not to mention the errant spray from a spraycan of whatever. True definition of Safety Glasses is, the lense itself will stop a 1" steel ball, dropped from 50'. The frames will withstand an impact, equivilant to a 3" Steel Ball dropped from 75'. And the Side Shields will be riveted to the frame of the glasses. May not be totally right on some of this, going from memory here. But part of my job, is dealing with both Federal, and State OSHA Regulations. I have to fab up work platforms, ladders, access points, what have you, everytime we get in a new piece of machinery. Any old piece, I have to bring it up to todays Standards, which can, and is, be "FUN". On another note. I have a 7"by 1/8th" piece of steel, embedded in my left thigh. It was flung by someone else using a 10" angle grinder. It hit the bone, and did a u-turn. Docs all say that it will bother me more to have them try to remove it, than it would to leave it in there. Been there for over 20 years now, getting smaller on X-rays, but it's still there. Real joy trying to fly anywhere, 'specially after 9-11. Always think of safety first, no matter what you're doing. I even put a jackstand under the vehicle, just changing a tire. Had a friend get his hand crushed doing just that, the jack collaspsed, pinning his hand under the truck. You just never know!!!!!!!!!!.............

The one in the '86 looked as bad, if not worse. Had the green hue to it also. Never ran "hot", just extremely warm. Didn't like the idea of it being in there, when I was doing a 64 mile round trip for work, so I put in a new one.......

I was told that I couldn't have the EA-82 engine in my '82 BRAT, cause it wouldn't fit between the frame rails, with-out a lift or cutting the rails. It does fit, tightly, but it fits. If the EJ engines are narrower side-to-side, you'll have enough room there. The engine in my BRAT originaly had the water pump mounted fan, and it sat about a 1/4" or less from the radiator. I promptly removed that. Not sure how much longer front-to-rear the EJ is from the EA-82, but I have 2-3/8" between the studs on the water pump and the radiator, a 2-core EA-82 type. So you may have to relocate the radiator. As far as the FI stuff, you could go with the CIS conversion like Noah did on his Wagon. Looks to be an easy conversion, for the do-it-myselfer. There's even one for the 5 cylinder engines, which has the fitting capped-off for the 6th cylinders injector. Just some more info here is all.............

Simular problem on my '86, when I dropped the Y-pipe for replacement. You have 2 short bolts that hold the AIS adapter to the head, and 2 long studs that hold the exhaust to the head, going thru the adapter, per side. Out of the 4 long studs, I managed to break 2, and strip-out 1. And on the 4 shorter ones, I stripped out 2. Haven't done anything to the exhaust yet, still amassing parts for replacement, but when I do, I'll be retapping the holes in the head. You can run a 7/16"-14 tap into the holes, with-out having to pre-drill. I used a starter tap first, then followed up with a bottoming tap. I used this method on my '82, and it works great. You can use either a bolt, or get some threaded rod from a parts store, and make your own studs. Whatever you do, be sure to use some anti-sieze on the threads. Thinking it was Archemetis that mentioned the use of the 7/16" bolt. I really like the idea of coarse threads in aluminum, vs fine thread. Less likely to strip-out, which is a good thing. Another plus is, it's cheaper than a Heli-coil kit. Haven't checked on the hole size in the AIS adapter as to whether the 7/16" bolt will fit thru them, but they can be drilled out to fit easily enough. Not planning on using the adapters on the '86 when I do the exhaust, don't need to worry about emission stuff here. Removed that stuff from the '82 already. So now you have a few different approaches to solving you delema. Good luck..........................

Tried and true method of getting proper length of the driveshaft is.... Slide the front yoke of the driveshaft onto the tranny outputshaft, and bottom it against the shaft, measure the distance from the center of the fixed u-joint cup, ( the one one the yoke itself, not the one on the shaft), to the center of the u-joint saddle on the rear diff, subtract 1" from this measurement, and you have proper length to give to the shop that's making your new shaft. I have used this method for many a different vehicle, and it is always right. The Guys at the shop I use, never queston my measurements, after I explained how I derived my length needed on the first one I needed built. Told me it was the best method to use. Just my .02.............

I too have been considering alternative methods of front-end lift, and camber adjustment. Considered the above mentioned idea of an adapter on the upper knuckle/strut mount, but haven't played out the camber adjustment part yet. Also considered building a tubular upper control arm to replace the strut itself, which would be mounted to a cross-shaft at the "frame area" where the lift blocks mount for the engine cross member. Could even be part of the lift-blocks themselves. This would allow for caster and camber adjustment both, by using shims at the attaching point of the cross-shaft for the upper arm. Coil-over shocks would be mounted above the upper control arm in place of the strut, using a sort of adapter at the upper strut mounting point, to attach the upper end of the shocks. Some of the older Fords were set-up this way, with the spring and shock on the upper control arm. Haven't worked out which knuckle style to use yet. Thinking that there may be a Ball-joint that would fit the recess for the strut of the knuckle type on the BRATs. Or, fab a ball-joint mount to attach to the adjustable type knuckles. Either would work, just which would be easier/better is the question here. Just more thoughts on the subject..............

When I tore down my engine in the '82 for a reseal, I found the exhaust mounting threads in the heads were striped out, 3 of them anyways. Posted question on here about repair of these. Got answers of using Heli-coils, re-dil and tap to larger size, and one of using a 7/16" bolt in place of the stock ones. I took the idea of the 7/16" bolt, and went a bit further. I used a starter tap first, then followed with a bottoming tap, for those few extra turns of thread. The tap size used is 7/16"-14, this is a coarse thread, which in my belief is better in aluminum than fine thread. I used a 1'' long bolt with lock washer to mount the exhaust pipe flange to the heads. The bolt is a SHCS, or in other words, you need an Allen wrench to turn it. The 7/16" tap will screw right into the holes in the head with no need to pre-drill. I may at a later time use studs in place of the bolts, but either will work. And actually, both a stud or a bolt will break of if they sieze in the hole. Use of Anti-sieze is highly recommended on all bolts/studs on these, or any vehicle. Just my .02.....................

I custom built my own 2" Dual exhaust for my '82, using electrical conduit of all things. Price was right, "Free". I have a pair of Xcelerator Turbo mufflers, ($30.00 each), on it. Mufflers are about mid-point of the doors, and the turn-outs exit just in front of the rear tires. No X or H pipe on this one, may try it on the '86 when I do that exhaust. Love to hear her "talk" as I run up thru the gears. Nice mellow "putt" at idle, and it's quiet at hiway speeds. Don't know if the lower end is affected by this set up, as I haven't driven a EA-82 powered 'Ru before this. I do know that she really starts pulling good as the engine hits 3500-4000 rpm's, and continues pulling right up to the "I had better shift now" point. Everybody that's rode in her loves the "sound" of the exhaust, and they usually want me to "get it on" when they do ride. Really sounds alot better than the cars running around here with those damned fart pipes on them. Definetly turns heads, when I nail the loud pedal. No problem with the local Police as of yet. I went with 2" piping, 'cause that's what matched the exhaust port size, and it just seemed the thing to do.......

Thinking that I've read that you can pull both the engine and tranny together. Not sure, haven't done it.. On pulling the engine, make sure to clearly label all electrical lines, as well as all vacuum, and fuel lines. You can just unbolt the intake manifold, and set it in the spare tire area. This will eliminate the disconnecting of the lines. and subsequent nightmare of re-attaching them. While you have the engine out, replace both the front and rear crank seals, may also want to replace the clutch setup if it's a manual trans. May even want to replace the oil pump at this time. Probally wouldn't hurt to replace the valve cover gaskets too. Be mindfull of the exhaust to head bolts, they like to break off, or strip out. A good soaking of rust penitrant will help, and/or some heat. You should be able to do the swap in the 3 days, providing you have all the parts when you start, along with the nessecary lifting devices. Take your time, don't try to rush things. If something isn't going smoothly, take a break for a bit. It does help... To bad you live to far away from me, I'd take that '82 BRAT in a heartbeat. If it don't sell, are you going to part it out? I could use afew items off of it, I'll pay the shipping costs. Later, and good luck...................

Lost the intermitant wipers, and they wouldn't park, just stop where ever you shut them of at. Also noticed my turnsignals didn't work either. Thinking a major wiring gremlin here... But it turned out to be a blown fuse. New fuse, everything is working as it should be. This is on my '82.....................

Had that musty/wet smell in my '82, 'specially after a heavy rain. Drivers side carpet would be wet.. Pulled the carpet out, was kinda worn out anyway. Found a hole in the floorboard, right by the kickpanel/firewall/wheelwell joint....SUCKS!!!. Anyways, was driving around during another downpour, and had water dripping down from the dash...?!!???!! Haven't got around to trying to get an eyeball up under the dash yet, but I'm thinking there's a blocked vent, drain, or a rust hole in the cowl area. That sucks even worse...Hoping that I'll find it this winter during the teardown/rust repair and repaint that I have planned. Just another possibility here..................

Kinda hard to tell from that pic, but I think he has a hose between the 2 heads. You can see a small black hose, just behind the manifold runner, somewhat above the #3 plug. As to the T'stat,????. Can't see it in the pic.

Glad to see another Michigan Sube owner on the board. I'm not to far away from you, 'bout 3 hour drive. We'll have to get together one of these weekends. Any good sources of parts up your way, as in Salvage Yards. Kinda scarce around me, Sucks!! I'm relatively new to the world of Subaru's, but I'm learning. This board is an excellent source of info, and helpful ideas. I'll be happy to assist with any questions you have on working on your ride. Send me an email, addy is in my bio. Later.....

Just can't seem to come up with any of the "old" parts crib info at work. Seems all of the older computers, (from before the big shut down in '2000), have major virus problems. The IT people have given up on all of them, and are setting the plant up with new ones. All of our files seem destine for the trash bin, Really sucks!! The old Maintenance Supervisor, didn't see the need to keep any of the books around. "We only use these items. Why do we need a ton of books laying around?".... That work around for the oil pressure is a good one, I have done that in the past, myself. Didn't think on it till I saw the post.. Won't really work for the water temp though. As it needs to be in the "flow" of the fluid. Could tap into the heater return line, from a tee fitting in the port for the temp sending unit. But to do that, you'd need the adapter, Which is what this thread was about in the first place, atleast on the oil part. Could always drill and tap the port on the manifold to accept a standard pipe thread, and go from there. But that's up to you guys. Like I said. I tried...

Have the same thing on my '86. I call it an anti-battery theift system. I did find out, that if you 1st push on the release handle, then pull on it, the mechanism will work as intended. Maybe yours is the same. Worth the try!!!!!!

My tach seems to work okay, may be a bit low on reading true RPM's. The only thing I've noticed since doing this wire-around, is that the pump may want to run-on, after I turn the key to off. Not for long, but it still runs, and only once in a while. Maybe a feed back from the fan, as Miles just mentioned. Hmmmm....

Otay 'panky.... First off, I couldn't locate my old water temp sending unit. But I will do a more thurough search in the AM. Now, as for the oil pump port thread size... The smaller of the 2 ports for sending unit/switches are 1/8th inch pipe thread. I got into the Metric tap set at work, and the tap screwed right into the hole in the pump. The tap markings read 1/8 BPS. Whatever that means!?! On the list of what's in the tap set, it lists the tap as 1/8-28, same as the 1/8th inch NPT pipe tap in the Standard "American" tap set. That leads me to believe that a 1/8th inch pipe thread adapter will work for the oil pump. Couldn't find a tap that would fit ito the larger port on the pump. Kinda limited on Metric tap and dies at work, but we do have them. I did find a fitting that would screw into the larger port, but it didn't have any ID markings on it, soi I couldn't use the cross-refferance book. Have to get with my Boss tomorrow, and get his Master list of parts in the crib. Then I'll be able to give a thread size for the larger port.... As for the question of the sending units/switches swapping between the EA-81 and EA-82. Yes, they will. I have the water temp, and oil pressure gauge sending units for the EA-81 engine, in the EA-82 engine that's in my '82 BRAT. Still working on further info on the water temp part, so bear with me guys. I'm a definate 1st shift person, that's just been re-assigned to 2nd, albeit temporary. So they say.... Really SUCKS!!!!!!! My free time is in the wrong part of the day now. Wife's working 3rd, I'm on 2nd. Someone in the house is usually asleep when I have time to do some work at home now. Got Son, and Mother-in-Law here too. YeeeeeeeeHawww, Life is good...

And you are wanting to re-tap which threads in the head?

No can do the 09-13-03 meet. Maybe the next one.....Tom

I will do my best to try to remember to take my old oil pump, and my old temp sending unit to work tomorrow. There, I will be able to do a thread and size comparison. From which I can give you guys an answer on the adapter size/thread you will need. And yes, the EA-81/82's have the same thread pitch and diameter on the sending units. I can confirm this, cause I have the EA-81 units in the EA-82 that's in my '82 BRAT. Later.......Tom

Would the info in the link in this thread be worth putting in the repair manual? http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2799&highlight=Interesting+reading Tom

Can we Please put this to rest now?!! He has asked of this, and I do beleive that he has learned a great lesson from this. So Please, let it be. Thank You......Tom

This is on your '82 BRAT, right? On my '82, I found, (thru tracing out wires), that there's a PINK 6 wire connector under the hood, near the battery and strut tower. In this connector, there is the Blue W/Red fuel pump wire, and a Black W/White "key on" hot wire. They be right next to each other. I used a relay, powered from the Blk/wht wire, grounded thru a switch on the oil pump, back to the battery - to fire the relay. The contacts of the relay are wired with a fused "hot" wire from the battery +, and wired to the Blue/Red wire for the pump. Didn't have the oil pump switch at first, but Skip pointed out my error in Safety First. Told the counter guy what I had, what I was doing, and what I wanted. He sold me a switch, it works. I just can't find the receipt to give you the part number. I still have the FPCU units connector plugged in, no problems with other components, sofar:-) , and it's been in there for 1400 miles/3 months, give or take afew. I do know that the Chevy Vegas ran the fuel pump power thru the oil pressure switch, not sure if that's the one I have , or not. Good luck.......Tom

http://www.dune-buggy.com/turbo/index.htm Couldn't sleep last night, (might've had something to do with the nap I took), and was surfing around different sites and found this one. Real interesting, atleast to me. Gave me an insight to the world of turboes, that I didn't have before, mainly cause I've never owned a turboed car. Lots of charts on various aspects of the system, including one that lists what turbo is on what make/model of vehicles. Even has indepth info on fuel injection, both electronic and mechanical. Well, it mentions the CIS system atleast. Really worth the reading, in my opinion........Tom