TomRhere

When it started to blow the smoke, did you just do a long sweeping curve on an on-ramp getting on the highway?

I would say it's the speedometer itself. Most likely, it's has some transmission lube in it, which causes them to do weird things. There is an o-ring that seals the speedometer drive on the trans. It can let the lube wick up the cable and get into the speedometer. My White '86 BRAT had that issue. Quite a lot of trans lube at the dash connection, and surrounding area. What a mess... Uncertain of actual repair for it. But you can pull the cluster out and clean the speedometer with some carb cleaner.

The contact kit for the starter solenoid is, HELP # 02349.

4WD EA82 vehicles have self-adjusting rear brakes. Other than lug nuts, axles nuts, it's 3 bolts and the brake line to swap them over. Slightly larger brakes also.

Brakes will give drag, or just plain size up, just from sitting. Mainly caused by shoe/pad contact with drum/rotor. Rust happens..... Mostly over-come just by moving/driving vehicle. As far as engine goes; I would try a socket on the crank bolt to see if it wants to move Maybe, just pull plugs, squirt some lube in there, hand crank it over a few revs, just to break things up in the cylinders. Definitely want to flush the fuel lines out., along with the gas tank

Black wire with a large ring terminal end on it. It can go on the ECU studs, or the steering column mount studs.

Once power is cut from turning the key off, that is it. Gage will read what ever it want's to. Some will maintain a true level reading, some won't. Not much one can do to change that.

Both rockauto and partstrain lists a reman rack for the EA81's, with rockauto being the lower price for the same unit. Comes with new inner tie-rods. Now, on yours,, it could be the outer tie-rods, ball-joints, or the strut top that is making the noise. Have a helper turn the steering wheel while you try to locate source of crunch. If the above parts are original to the car, I would atleast suspect the tie-rod ends, and/or the ball-joints. As they have been under there for a bit.

The return spring is on the Hill-Holder" valve itself. May need to adjust it's cable some. If one decided to remove the "H_H", a throttle return spring of correct length can be used. All the return spring does really, is pull the throw-out bearing away from the pressure plate, so it isn't being spun all of the time, causing unneeded wear on it. So any spring that can be fitted from the clutch fork to an anchor point to pull the bearing further away from the pressure plate, with minimal stretch at rest. Then enough stretch to give full travel of fork during movement of fork will do. Can't say what spring I have on mine, just know it's a throttle return spring and it works.

Yes, they are bigger. That is why the EA81 Wagon Spoke wheels don't fit the EA82 bodied vehicles without doing some grinding on the calipers. The rear EA82 brakes are basically a bolt-on swap to an EA81. The front EA82 brakes take a bit of doing to swap onto an EA81. Caliper mount brackets have different bolt spacing, so one would have to swap the knuckle over, or fab a custom bracket. If one swaps the knuckles, which do directly fit the EA81's. You now have issue of tie-rod end differences in where they fit the knuckles. EA82 tie-rod ends are smaller diameter than the EA81's where the taper fits into the knuckles.

Yep, rear disc brake swap is the best. But, just swapping over to the EA82 drum type rear brakes will be an improvement over the EA81 rear drum brakes. Slightly lager drum/shoe size, and the benefit of self-adjusting brakes. Wouldn't hurt anything other than your wallet to replace the Master Cylinder either.

Worn shifter bushings could be the problem. Also, there is a spring under there. Don't recall right now where it's located exactly. But if it's missing, shifter will be sloppy.

That doesn't work on my '88 Wagon either. Haven't looked for cause yet. Good info in here. Do know, that all of the BRAT's I owned had this issue. Found the connectors for the sending unit wiring to be corroded, easy repair. When I dropped the fairly new tank out of the '92 parts Wagon, I found one of the wires had broken off the sending unit.

Some shifter slop fixes. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122888-tech-tip-ea81-4-speed-sloppy-shifter-bushing-fix/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/84045-new-fix-for-4-speed-shifter-slop/

How's the fuel filters? The Main filter is just in front of the Left rear tire, secondary one is under the hood near the brake booster. What is the distributor timing set at? Factory is 8* BTDC. But with a Weber, you can go as much as 12*. Ran mine at 11*, and it seemed "Happy". Get someone to be a camera operator and take a video of how/what it's doing as you drive it. What you need as far as parts go?

Oh.... Remembered to snap a couple pics of those nasty looking rotors I took off the rear a while back. Pretty, ain't they?

More of the carnage; That is #3 cylinder. FUBAR!! Christopher had wiped the stuff out that would come out, then coated it down with ATF. I let it set for a few days and hit it with a wire wheel. The Dark stuff is rust. Can turn the crank around though. But it takes some doing. This past Saturday, I tore down another short-block, just to see if I could save it at all. Surface rust in the cylinders, but crank would turn, without the chain-wrench. Gave the worst looking cylinder a go over with the honing tool. This was after maybe 5 minutes run time. Thinking it be toast also. So, I'm definitely pulling the EA82 that's in the Wagon now. Give it a complete go over. Going to pull the pistons out of that gnarly looking block, well,,, if the wrist pins will come out.. Pick the best of the 2 sets, clean and re-ring them. I'll have 3 cranks to choose from, as well as, 3 sets of connecting rods Really hoping I don't have any shop work other than getting the heads done. Well, might have a crank polished if it's deemed needed.

Set your multimeter to AC voltage and check at the battery again, engine running. Don't recall the number right now, but basically any AC voltage reading above say .3 volts is bad. Alternator has internal problems. Usually, when the dash lights start lighting up oddly, it's due to AC voltage from the alternator.

To answer your question, Yes, that is the correct gasket set.

White connector in 1st pic is for the 2 solenoids seen in the bottom pic. They shift the trans from FWD to 4wd by controlling the big vacuum canister mounted below the starter. The connector in the bottom pic is for the wiper motor. The pic of the side of the radiator is showing the thermosensor switch that controls the electric radiator fan.

Not a fun club to be a member of. At least the manifold will move some. So, spray penetrant in hole, work the manifold back and forth a bit to help get the lube worked down the bolt. See if you can pull up while moving manifold. Haven't had to do that myself, but read it on here a while back. Most of them I've had to deal with were broke right at the head. But have had to drive the bolt out of the intake bore.

Liking the "New" grille. Looks much better on there than the other one. Tom

Welcome to the Board! Nice looking Wagon.. Liking the Red trim stripe also. The trailer wiring could very well be the issue with the Stop Lamp light issue. I would also check the ground circuit for that sides light assembly. Bad/iffy grounding can cause all sorts of weird things to happen with automotive lighting circuits. With the dash light coming on, makes me think there is a back-feed in the circuits, usually caused by bad ground. When bleeding the brakes, do one rear then opposite front, as these are cross-plumbed systems Right rear-Left front, Left rear-Right front. Make sure rear brakes are properly adjusted as well as the parking brake. Finding a Factory rear LSD will be somewhat difficult. They are out there, but rather rare. You can swap the center piece from the 3.7 LSD into your 3.9 diff though. Just swap the ring gears, a little grinding of the case is needed also. Tom

The radiator cap allows excess pressure to be vented off, even if it allows coolant out. The cap also allows air or coolant to be drawn back in when the system cools down and a vacuum is created. Systems are designed with a certain working pressure in mind. Having "to low" or "to high" of pressure from what it is supposed to be affects the over all performance of the system. To much pressure on a system that was designed for a lower pressure can cause leaks, or ruptured tanks. Just some basic hydraulic system info there. And the cooling system of a vehicle, is an hydraulic system.

It has been a few years now, but I think I left three tubes showing thru the fill neck. Yes, a higher pressure cap can lead to other cooling system issues.