TomRhere

Yeah, I'd find a different shop to check/do alignment. Have had my own issues with places I've taken various vehicles into for alignments. One was an '73 GMC Sprint, (Chevy Elcameno). Totally rebuilt the front end of it. Everything other than rims was "BRAND NEW". And I do mean everything.. Took it in for an alignment and was told they couldn't because of worn parts. Got the keys from them, unlocked the door, opened glove-box to grab the stack of receipts, walked back in the office. Asked to speak to the Tech that checked it. When he came into the office I handed him the stack and asked what brand new part with less than 10 miles on it was worn out. He couldn't do nothing but stare at me. I promptly left the building with the Manager yelling at me that I owed the "rack fee" for the inspection. Which I didn't pay. Get a second opinion......

Are you totally filling the radiator, or leaving about an 1-1/2" or so air pocket? Only ask, because all 5 BRAT's would loose coolant if I topped the system off full. Leaving an air pocket, kept them doing so. I believe it's to do with no recovery bottle on the EA81's. Where the EA82's have one and it catches/recovers any excess coolant.

Total waste of time on that engine today. Didn't get pic of cylinders, but have a few of the heads. So..... It looks like I pull/redo engine in the Wagon now. Nothing I have otherwise is a "do it" engine, just so much scrap metal.

Got the engine dug out yesterday. Forgot just how nasty dirty it was. What an oil/dirt incrusted mess... Going to be a long clean up... Also, seems to be a broken intake bolt on this one too. At least it's the opposite head to the one I've been trying to get a broken bolt out of. Got the ones on the engine currently in the Wagon, so I should have two sets to choose from. And this is yet another Subaru engine that has spark plugs that are not NGK's. Has AC Delco's in it. 4 BRAT's, 2 XT6's, 4 EA82 engines, all came to me with "other brand" plugs in them.

I've dug out 2 other EA82 short blocks I have here, and pulled the pistons from them. Both sets, "look", to be the same design, but the calipers will tell the tale on that. Both sets have siezed oil rings also. What up with that? This weekend, I'll get the '86 FWD Sedan's carbed motor dugout and on the bench, tear it down to see what is up with it. Has somewhere between 185,000-190,000 miles on it. No clue on it's condition, as it was towed to my place without an intake on it, never heard it run. It's still all together other than the intake. Was bought as a parts car from MilesFox, he towed it here from Wisconsin. I tore it apart soon afterwards. A few of it's goodies are still hanging around out in the garage, and the shed. More later.

Also, on the HHR note we were discussing before, boss' trans went in the HHR in the middle of the lincoln tunnel during morning rush hour. 37k on it. Scary. Might want to get away from yours when you can, but I can say that the one we use here for work does get the ever loving **** kicked out of it during the work week driving around manhattan. Heavy heavy accel, start, stop, start, stop, etc. Dealer said it was the clutch-packs. Lots of metal in the pan. Boss is thinking of trading it in. It's an 09. WOW! Shouldn't have lost the trans that soon, mileage wise. Then again, it's a trans for a car, not a work truck. I really don't see why GM decided to make the HHR's as a "cargo van" with the engine/trans combo available in them. That said; a rear wheel drive with either a V-6, or V-8, would have been a "Killer Idea"......

White vinegar helps to clean up Calcium and Lime deposits.

I would pull the outer timing covers and check that things are all as they should be with the cam timing.

Thanks for the info. Kinda forgot about the "Cheese Wedge". Haven't visited the XT site much of late. Figured it would work, just wanted some assurance for they guy, should he decide to do it.

Title asks the question. Will it worK? Friend of my Son, Christopher, is wanting to build a dune buggy. Looking for engine/trans combo to start with. Christopher mentioned the stuff I have here, and told me the guys eyes "lit up" with the mention of the ER27's I have. I also have an EA82 FWD 5-speed here, which would be a nice one for a rear drive buggy. But,,,,, will it stand up to the ER27? Thinking a buggy would be light enough that one would spin the tires before any rear power/torque would damage the trans.

I do have the fill tube, with the large hose even. I apparently cut the smaller one. Have to see if I can remove the 3 screws from the upper flange, they had snapped off when I tried to remove them when it was on the car. Came from an '86 Sedan.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/127820-ea81-rear-fuel-line-routing-need-pics/ That thread has info you need. Post #6 has EA82 fuel pump and filter. Post #7 has EA81 fuel pump and filter.

Stop light check relay. It's a dual coil relay wired into both brake light circuits. If both bulbs are good, both coils are energized. If one bulb burns out, the good side of the circuit causes the relay to move, making the contact for the "Stop Lamp" light on the dash cluster to light.

D/R 5-speed.

Well, since the last post, the Wagon has been sitting in the driveway for the most part. Drive it around town running errands, but haven't used it fo the work trips, just don't like the way it runs. So, after a lot of mental arguage, I opened a credit line to get money needed for parts. Ordered said parts,and received most all of them. So, time once again to redo an engine for it. Will be completely going over one of the EA82's I have here. Bought rod/main bearing sets, along with crank seals. New piston rings Upper end/valve grind gasket set. Timing belt kit, complete kit. Disty cap/rotor, NGK plugs. Fairly certain I have the needed block-half seal here for the water passage, as I have bought a couple of complete gasket/seal sets in the past. (Where one of those should be "hiding", is the question here). Heads will be dropped of at local engine shop for a do-over. I'm not messing with them myself, just don't want to. New oil/filter, gas and air filter, pcv valve, all new hoses and drive belts will be done also, just haven't bought them yet. Will do my best to do pics along the way. If,,,, for what ever reason,,, this don't prove to be a worth while venture. Rest assured there will be a small mushroom clould appearing over Hillsdale, Michigan. 'Cause ""I will"", buy a case or two of dynamite, set every EA82 engine piece I have here on top of it, and lite the fuse". Trust me on that one..........

Yep, steel brake line to replace the steel fuel lines.

14.3 volts is good. Below 13 volts or above 15 volts is cause to worry. Corrosion of terminals is possibly an issue here. Then again, vehicle is getting older every day. Things don't always work like they should. Aftermarket gages are a good thing, especially for oil pressure. The stock gages are notorious for being iffy.

I'm fairly certain that is how the fill-tube is attached, I'll know more when I actually have one in my hand. Believe I kept the one from the '88 XT6, and should still be attached to the tank itself. Not 100% on it, but it should work for yours, as the XT's were an EA82 platfrom.

Just a couple screws holding it at the door,, and another lower down behind a shield, (have to remove the rear wheel). Then the two hoses going to the tank on the lower end. Getting those hoses off can be a bear at times.

Ain't road salt wonderful? To bad there's so many miles between us. I have an extra tank or two here. Be upwards of $40.. to ship one, just guessing. Might have a fill-tube though. I'll dig around this weekend to see for sure. Seems like I did keep one or two though.

More like "What did I do "FOR" my Subaru. Went and got a credit line for $2,000.00. Ordered enough parts/pieces to do a total rebuild of an engine, minus what shop work will cost for things I can't do here myself. This had better get the '88 Wagon back to a daily driver status. Sssshhhhh..... Don't let the Wife know I did this. I won't see my next birthday.

Have read on here about Owners trying to replace those bushings and basically destroyed the control arm in tht atempt. Other's have stated they burned-out, drilled-out, the rubber portion then cut the outer shell to remove it. That would be my way of doing so, if I were to atempt that. Then I would do some type of aftermarket bushing insert, made to fit like Nico has done. I do have 2 bushings here for an EA81 control arm, thinking they are the same for EA82's. You can have the bushings I have have here for a small cost plus shipping. I'm open to offers.

Without the spring, the shifter is floppy. Gives the feel of worn bushings to me. I'd try the spring 1st, just to see if that is the issue.

Gloyale can you confirm that the fittings are m10x1 inverted flare? Befor he/we place an order wed like a confirmation. Not GLoyale here, but yes. 10M-1 double flare. Not to be confused with any vehicles what have the "Bubble" flare. Double/inverted flare , >>==, bubble flare , <>==

I know I removed a "T" fitting from both of the '86 BRAT's I parted out. I know that the '82 BRAT had one "T" in it when I removed the "HH", it now has 2 "T" fittings. Back when I was doing this, I considered replacing the Master Cylinder, as the Manuals have a 2-port one, EA82 Auto's have a 4-port one. Atleast the '88 GL10 Wagon Auto trans, we had did.