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TomRhere

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Everything posted by TomRhere

  1. TomRhere
    If you know of an EA81 manual trans vehicle sitting in parts yard near you, you would find the needed "Tee" fitting on the "HH" mounting bracket.
  2. TomRhere
    The control unit for the Automatic Seat Occupant Choking System is located behing the Driver side rear tire. You have to pull the big trim panel to access it. Chances are, that it is the driver's side belt track itself, (worn out cable track), or one of the reed switches on it. Controller doesn't always "see" that either the full forward, or full retract switch is made. So it keeps trying to move the belt cable to "see" the switch. The clicking is most likely the relay kicking in/out. Also, bad connection at, or, door switch itself may be cause. If the dome light works correctly, along with the door ajar indicator/key in the ignition dinger, you can rule out the door switch.
  3. TomRhere
    Thanks for the info. Have assorted lenghts of lumber, 16" tire, and ratchet straps loaded up, along with "Hopefully" all the needed tools. Heading out early in the morning.
  4. TomRhere
    Yea, what Jono said. I can't remember all of what Skip said from many years ago, when one of the BRAT's were doing that. But it has to do with air intering the exhaust system. Either the Anti-Afterburn-Valve, (AAV), or the Air-Suction-Valve, (ASV), system(s) are the most likely culprit(s). I blocked it all off, then promptly removed all that MABS when I swapped to a Weber carb. MABS = Miscelanious Assorted Bull S**T
  5. TomRhere
    Check for proper rear brake shoe adjustment.
  6. TomRhere
    Hoping to pick up an EJ this weekend. Need some measurements to build a wood cradle to sit it in for the trip back home. Cradle(with EJ in it) will be hauled in the Wife's Chevy HHR. I'll be building the cradle out of what ever 2x4/2x6/2x/8 scrap lumber I have here. Just need the dimensions for a good solid support of the engine during the trip. Good fit around oilpan, and outriggers to help support the head area.
  7. TomRhere
    About the foglight switch. It may be due to it being designed to fit in the center console of the XT/XT6, and not the dash. Don't know for sure on that, but it's my thought on it. May be possible to flip the rocker part of the switch over though. Not sure on that either.
  8. TomRhere
    FYI. The ABS you saw on the piece denoted the type of plastic it is, not that is was meant for where the ABS Sytem controls/lights/what-have-you mount.
  9. TomRhere
    There is no rubbing period with the tires/fenders/body on my Wagon. Granted, I have not done any "off-road" type driving so to speak, but I have no issues so far.
  10. TomRhere
    The 195/75/14 tire = 25-1/2" diameter. My unlifted '88 Wagon is running 195/65/15's that are just under 25" diameter. They fill the wheel well but don't rub any. Yours are narrower than mine, so you should be good.
  11. TomRhere
    Nice Wagon! I would take it off your hands if I could figure a way to get it up here to Michigan. White smoke/vapor from the exhaust could be a few things. If it dissipates soon after leaving the tailpipe, it's vapor. That could just be condensation, some vehicles do it more than others, regardless of make/model. If you're not loosing coolant, I would say it's condensation Oil smoke has a Blue tinge to it, as does ATF smoke. ATF smoke will irritate your eyes if you should be down wind of it. Are you loosing any ATF?
  12. TomRhere
    Very nice work done to that Hatch.
  13. TomRhere
    Hard packed gravel "might" cause some binding between Front/Rear tires. You have the "Push-Button" 4WD trans, there is no "center-diff" in them, straight gear-to-gear drive = "no slip" between output of front/rear drivelines, hence the binding/lockup. Edit; Okay, made 3 posts sofar on today's visit, and had to edit 2 of them cause keyboard is being an idiot.
  14. TomRhere
    Engine died because unplugging that hose created a massive vacuum leak, starving the engine of fuel. Bought an '84 BRAT that would do a 3,000+ RPM cold start, with choke set, due to major crack in that hose. Just enough vacuum in the carb to draw in needed fuel with choke closed. Would not idle at all when the choke started to open. Edit; If you want to delete the AAV from yours, get an EGR for a SPFI Model, they don't have that extra port on them
  15. TomRhere
    Do Not, run 4WD on hard pavement!! Loose stuff only! Dirt, mud, sand, snow.
  16. TomRhere
    Yep. Either 7/16"-14 or 7/16"-20 tap will go right into the stripped thread hole, no drilling needed. Doing this will get one by for a long time, and leaves plenty of "meat" around the stripped hole to do a proper Heli-Coil/ Timesert repair when that time comes. Is especially easy to do on Subaru engines what have the spacer for the ASV tubes, as you only really need to tap that spacer, not the hole in the head.
  17. TomRhere
    Can you move the air door by hand? I've had a few that were stuck due to non-use. If it does move by hand, will it stay open if you plug the vac hose going to it? Bad diaphram it it don't stay. There is a temperature controlled vac switch in the filter canister. It should open/close with cold/warm temp changes. Check all vac hoses for good condition/ no leaks.
  18. TomRhere
    Sad to read about your Sedan. Good to hear that none of your Family was injured. Can see from the pics just how close things were to the house. Do believe, that the registered owner of any vehicle is reliable for any damage caused by said vehicle, regardless of who was driving it. So, his drunk friend was driving the truck when it hit your car. Owner went to pick friend up somewhere down the road. How did owner of truck get there? And where was said "drunk friend" when you showed up at the store/gas station?
  19. TomRhere
    You'll need a set of good quality spring compressors to do the job yourself. You could also pull the strut assemblies off the Wagon, take them and the new struts to a garage and have them swap things around, put the assemblies back where they belong. That would be easier on your wallet vs. having the shop do all of the work.
  20. TomRhere
    I haven't tried my hand at porting any heads as of yet, but have done a lot of reading on the subject. Yep, 80 grit for finish on the intake side of things. You want to get the exhaust and combustion chamber as close to a mirror finish as possible to help eliminate, (actually it's "reduce chance of") any carbon build up.
  21. TomRhere
    Since the last post, Wagon finished the work week with just over 220 miles on it. Done burnt thru a tank of gas doing so. Not, a "Happy Camper" over that. Parked it in the driveay and drove the '07 HHR for the duration. Today, I cleaned what was left of the 16"+ snow dump we got here on the 1st of the month off it and proceeded to try to find issue(s). Got a few pages of the EA82 SPFI FSM, so dove into that to help find issues. Alot of the "possible causes" came out to be bad wiring basically, so started going over the harness. Found bad connection of the ground wires where they hook to the T-stat housing. There is 4 wires, and 2 terminal rings there. Both of the rings were suspect just by looking at them. Could see what looked like a crack at the base of them. Sure enough was a crack after arguing the bits out to get a better look. So, cut the wires off, strip them back some, clean them up, solder new ring terminal on, replace wires where they go. Also added another ground wire run from that connection back to the battery. Have read on here a few times about redoing/adding grounds, so thought was, "Why Not". Called it a day for now. We shall see what tomorrow brings. HHR is still at the ready if need be.
  22. TomRhere
    Love it when a plan comes together. Even if the outcome of said plan,,, wasn't the plan but still turned out good/better.
  23. TomRhere
    @ dinky26 Just some words of caution here. That is not a good way to support a vehicle with cement blocks. You have them on their side, where they are the weakest. Always have the web of the blocks vertical, they are strongest that way. I always placed one of the solid 4" blocks on top of eack of them when I used them. Have jackstands now, so no longer use the blocks.
  24. TomRhere
    Yeah, well,,,, so much for that.... Idle quality has improved with the new plugs and wires, but nothing else has. I know that putting on taller tires would zap some omph from it, but this is way to rediculous. I can barely hold 55MPH in 5th on somewhat level road. Forget 5th on ANY upward pointed roadway. Once in 5th gear, there is no throttle responce at all. I can put my foot to the floor, nd it just stays at what ever speed it is. Yea, I know,,, the engine is low on compression, but REALLY?!? It's, that,,, bad? Under 150 miles showing on the Odo since last fill-up. Had 27 showing before work done over the weekend, 2 trips to/from work @ 64 miles each round trip. And I have burnt thru a half tank of go juice already. NOT GOOD!!! I really need to get the other engine finished up and swapped in, but it's still a few dollars away from being ready for that. Few dollars?!? Yeah right, couple of paychecks maybe.. I am,,, about This II, close to saying the hell with it and swapping in one of the ER27's. I have had no real joy out of any of the EA82 engines I've ran in any vehicle. Some have, ran decent, but not like the EA81's I've ran. And I just loved how the XT6 ran down the road. So.........
  25. TomRhere
    Do the Subaru's have the "roll-over anti-siphon valve" in the fill tube? I don't recall anything as to whether they do or not. I have had issues with those on other vehicles, especially in colder times of the year.
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