TomRhere

It should, once you get all of the air bled out of the system. But remember, the EA81's don't have an overflow recovery tank like the EA82's or newer ones do. So, if it should burp some coolant out for what ever reason, you have lost that from the system. Should it happen a couple times, now you may be low on coolant. Probabily why, it is low now. edit; I really need to go back to school and learn how to spell again....

Snagged hold of a 36" + piece of 2" stainless tubing out of the scrap bin at work today. Thinking it's just about the right length for replacing the muffler with it. It's even all polished up and shiny.

I,,, would do it just to have an XT!!! It wouldn't be a direct engine swap though, the XT's are a MPFI system. You can however, use the short block from your car, and swap the heads, intake, distributor from the XT engine over to it. There other differences between MPFI, SPFI, Carbed engines. But they can be swapped around and made to run. Maybe,, someone with more experience, (than me), with the MPFI system, will chime in and give you better info than I can.

Very nice looking SUBARU!!! Agreed, gurgling in the dash area is air in heater plumbing, low coolant. As Jono said, front of car pointed up to help bleed the air out. Start the engine with the radiator cap off, and heater temperature setting on Hot. Let it warm up and watch the level in the radiator. Once the engine warms enough to open the thermostat, you should see a good flow of the coolant. Add in what ever it needs to top it up. The EA81's didn't come with an overflow tank for the coolant. I stick the free end of the overflow hose into the jug of coolant, put the radiator cap back on, and then let the engine cool back down. It should draw some coolant in as it cools. May have to repeat the cap off, warm it up, top it off though.

Checked to make sure that the trailer hitch was still solidly mounted to the back of the Wagon. Happy to report that it is still solid as ever. However, I'm not real happy with the very large bump and bruise on my right shin bone. Damn that hurt....

Had a moment of brilliance hit me today. Pulled Wagon into the garage to pull/clean the plugs. While getting out all the tools needed, it dawned on me that there are 6 brand new NGK plugs sitting in the ER27 engine right infront of the Wagon. HA! So, 4 of those got pulled for use. Really looks like the XT6 was running rich the last time she ran. But I hit the plugs with a brush, checked gap and intalled them in the Wagon. Also installed the NGK wires I got from bratman18. Got some nice pretty Blue bling under the hood now. Seeing as I still haven't installed the driveshaft yet, I decided to swap over to the tires/rims off of the '99 Cavalier. Good tread on all 4 tires, just they all don't match, got two oddball ones. Won't matter if I keep those on the rear, matching ones up front. Tire size be 195/65/15 for an overall height of 24.98 inches. Kinda fill the wheelwell, but they don't rub any where. They should last me for a while, good tread depth on all four. Ran a tape measurer around all of them, and they are within 1/16th" of each other for circumferance. Wife decreed that I run to the store, opted to drive Wagon instead. She was wanting to die-down at stops, even stalled on me when I pulled up to back into the driveway. OK, now what?? Checked codes, got a neutral switch and an O2. Found that the O2 had came unplugged, easy fix. O2 side of the connector won't hold the wire in, so a zip-tie was employed. Ain't to worried about the neutral switch thing right now, but I figure I can do a switch on either the brake or clutch pedal to remedy that one. I'll need that anyways if I ever do get the D/R installed, it doesn't have that switch on it. I pulled all four of the fusable links for about 2 hours to reset the computer. We shall see what she does in the morning. Got to go do the job thing tomorrow, the 4 day weekend is over. Bummer....

Had just over 300 miles showing and roughly 1/8th of a tank on the gauge when I filled it Saturday. Took just under 12 gallons at $2.85 a gallon where I stopped. Not quite up to what she used to do, but helluva lot better than she was doing. Haven't picked up new plugs yet, and I'm low on cash now. Thinking I'll just pull the ones in there and clean them up, put the other wire set I have on there also. Saturday was the best day to give her a bath, but there was lines at all of the car washes. Wasn't going to sit around and wait for however long to get my turn. So she still needs a bath. Maybe I'll get it done today, stick her in the garage where it's nice and toasty to dry off. Whole whopping 10* out there right now, not going to get much warmer either. Honestly, I haven't got to much of any of the wrenching I was wanting to do on her, been doing "other things". Such is life...

Umm, no. I definetly know where you're coming from. The '92 Loyale GL Wagon I bought for parts had full gauge cluster in it, that's what I was going off of when I posted before. Maybe it was swapped in, don't know. You do have to swap the oil pressure switch on the pump to the oil pressure sending unit. May have to swap a wire around in the connector for the dash also. Not sure on that one.

So, your's is a DL with 4 headlights vs. a GL with 2 composite headlights? The "no oil, amp gauges" is why I ask. No tach either I suppose? Big wiring changes are in your future otherwise.

I have bits and pieces of the FSM, but the fuse for the radiator fan also powers the radio and cigarette lighter. If a previous owner has hacked the wiring on yours, you ae kind of one your own in figuring it all out. No one on here knows what was done. The link to the FSM I posted will help you troubleshoot the wiring, it really didn't change much over the years the BRATs were built, really any EA81 bodied vehicle for that matter. I sent bushy555 that FSM posted on the above linked site, he found the missing portions and filled it in. It's just I,, can't access what he posted, as I don't have the proper program to do so. I have used what portions I have of the Electrical Section to fix issues with my '85 and my '86 BRATs.

I know someone on here works at Rick's shop, prwa101 maybe. Not sure, but I know I've read about someone working with him. Do miss Rick being on here, but as long as he is upright and breathing, all is good. Hopefully, someone would let use know otherwise. Then again,,,, Where's Skip????

Straight from the FSM, -10*c (14f) = 7-11.5 Ohm 20*c (68f) = 2-3 Ohm 50*c (122*f) = 700-1,000 Ohm Just don't get why the really cold reading is higher Ohm than the middle reading. But that's what is printed in the FSM.

Yes. Web site gives the Subaru number of 22630AA000. Checked that number against a Dealerdhip site and it was listed as a replacement part for the SPFI systems. I know my Wagon is happy with it. Gee. I can even quote now. I be even Happier.

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/thegreatsubarubratclub/info If you go to the link and click on files at the top of the page, you'll find downloadable files of the '83 FSM. They are a .rar file, I can't open them myself, don't have proper program. Wiring didn't change much, so it should help you out. edit; YEA!! It worked... Laptop would not let me do links. This here tower does.. I be Happy now...

@ Scoobaroo84 For a new CTS I used the following from O'Reilly Auto Parts on my '88 SPFI; IDI Brand sensor - #17-1233 BWD Brand connector- #28419A Spliced the connector into the Factory harness, keeping the original CTS connections. Just cause.. Made big improvement in my gas mileage, and 1st starts, was wanting to flood out.

Yeah, as DaveT said, those plugs can a bear to break loose. Main concern there is getting the upper one out, that's the "fill plug". If you can't get the lower "drain plug" out, no worries there. Just pop the cover off. Perma-tex Ultra Grey makes for good seal once everything is cleaned up.

AutoZone lists one on their site, #91792 $119.99. Subaru number is 72011GA110

4WD should only be used on loose stuff, snow ice sand mud gravel. Using it on dry pavement causes binding in the system. Also, all 4 tires need to be the same Brand, type and size. That said, I would check the u-joints on the driveshaft, and check the joints on the rear axle shafts looking for any play. How's the gear lube in the rear diff? Everything from the rear tires up to the trans is just along for the ride when you're in FWD, no load against anything. So a bad u-joint could basically hide itself until you shift into 4WD, same with rear axle joints. Just some thoughts on it. And Welcome to the Board!

It's just a cover piece to match the Passenger side. One can install a working step in it's place though.

The new CTS has helped gas mileage greatly, and driveability has improved. By the looks of mileage driven and level of fuel used these past 2 days, I'm back to the 32 - 34 mpg range. So far, 1st starts have been good, as in she fires right up and stays running. But, it's also been a bit warmer, upper 20's - low 30's. Not liking any of the plugs I've located, so I'll pick up some new ones come payday. Going to burn a couple of vacation days, give me a 4 day weekend. Do a bit more tweeking of things on her. Bath is definetly on the to do list, along with a good cleaning of windows. Man, this keyboard is way different than the laptop. Going to take some getting used to...

Sounds to me that you have lost the ground for that side. Automotive lighting does some weird things when the ground is lost/bad.

AAAAA My Eyes !!!!

Dash gage isn't all that acurate either, so it could be reading high. Only way to know for sure is to install a mechanical gage, even if only to test pump pressure.

Only fitting on the bottom of the tank is the drain plug. Fuel supply, return and vapor lines attach to the front side of the tank.

One thing I can suggest if you think it's fuel flow related, is to install a clear fuel filter under the hood. You'll be able to tell at a glance if there's fuel or not.