TomRhere

I like the look of that rim over the other one you had. Just fits the car better in my opinion. Got to agree on the Black Powder Coat idea. Maybe even do a Yellow band out near the bead area.

Slightly off topic here. But I'm currently getting my new, yet used, tower system up and running. Been blowing out all kinds of programs and crap. Not sure where the hard drive came from, but it is loaded to the gills with stuff. Much of it,,, I don't need. Maybe, I can start doing links and posting pics again. Just an old hand me down HP Pavilion, but it's good enough for me if it works better than this here laptop. Got a box of better goodies for it if I deem it needs it, (probably will, just cause). Parts came from Christopher's tower when we bought him all fresh new goodies for his. Step-Son Michael is a computer guru, and we took his advice on what to get for Chris's system so he would have one heck of an awesome game system. What came out wasn't that bad, we just wanted to get him the latest/greatest for his B'day. Whole Family was in on the purchases of needed pieces.

Well, the brakes are working better than they ever have. Today, I installed a new CTS and connector. I cut the wiring off the old one, soldered the leads from the new connector to those and kept the Factory connector in place. Replaced the CTS due to it not wanting to start easily on these single digit/below 0* days we've had lately. Been wanting to flood. Plus, mileage has gone way bad on me. Usually get to 345 miles before doing a refill, still some left in tank. Filled it last Sunday, and had to refill this past Thursday. Lost over 100 miles on that tank. Me no like........ While trying to get the old CTS out, I decided to pull #1 plug to give me a bit more wrenching room. Plug is coated with deposits. Light Tan in color, but a bit on the heavy side in my opinion. Plugs are fairly new NGK's along with fairly new off-brand wires. Got another set of wires I can swap in, so not worried on that. Will look to see what I have here for useable old plugs, maybe clean those up and swap them in. She really hasn't been running all that good of late. Not liking to accelerate at all once I get up to 55mph. And she's back to not liking hills at all. Hoping the new CTS helps there. If the old one was telling the ECU that's it's colder than it is so it's getting to much fuel, I can see the lack of get up and go. We shall see.

You need 34 Ohm resistors for both the EGR and Purge Solenoids. All the ECU is looking for is the resistance value of the coils, it could care less if any of the systems are actually working. Can't help with the O2 question.

I will try to remember to look for the old unit I took out of the Wagon, after I get back here from work today. Vac side of it is broke, but I believe the electrical side was still good. When I 1st got the Wagon, I couldn't change modes, but the blower worked. Pulled unit and found it was broke in several places. Fan speed switch failed later. If I still have it, I can send it your way for the cost of shipping.

Nice looking Wagon. Got to agree with Scooner. The wrench trick and filter can are great ones.

Besides worn bushings, shifter slop can come from it missing a spring. Subaru calls it an acceleration spring. It should show up in the parts diagram when you look for the bushings.

Try another fan speed control switch. That was issue with the blower not always wanting to run in mine.

This here laptop won't let me quote a reply, or link a Thread. But,, if you dig back thru the Threads on here looking for one Titled, "Brakes won't let me pull out of the parking lot" started by LovemyGLWagon on 01-Jan-2015, I posted proper clutch/HH adjustments straight from the FSM. I too, just remove the HH from the system. One less hassle to deal with.

Spent some time digging around on various auto part supplier web sites looking for a replacement CTS. WOW!! $70.00 - $100.00 for the one that matches what is in the Wagon. OUCH.. Saw a few listed what have the connector directly on the sensor, no pigtail. Sites claimed they were a direct fit for my Wagon. One of those is a Standard Motor Products unit p/n TX-18, also gave a Subaru p/n of 22630aa000. Forgot to note price, but it was around $25.00 Quick search on Google gives that it fits SPFI, MPFI and Turbo 1.8's and the 2.7's. And the Dealership gives a $50.00 price tag on it. Thinking I'll go with it, pretty sure I have needed harness side connector here.

Thanks for the info. Gotta say, Hmm here. So just where did this here Black connector CTS come from? I know not, therefore,, maybe I no try to use it and fubar something. Time to spend money on proper replacement one. She did start up good this morning though. Nice balmy 18* F out.

This is for my '88 Wagon with SPFI. Thinking my CTS is bad as she's been wanting to flood trying to start 1st thing in the mornings with these single digit temps we've had lately. I have what I believe to be a CTS from a MPFI system, has Black connector on it. Questions are. Outside of the connection difference, are the 2 sensor compatible? I can just swap connections and use it?

Take a junk flat-blade screwdriver and heat the end of it with a torch, then jam it into the broken piece. May have to reheat the screwdriver again to get it to go deep enough. Once you figure it's good, let things cool down, then just turn the broken piece out.

No work on Wagon today. Got freezing rain/sleet crap happening. Think I'll stay warm and toasty here in the house and give myself a day off. Well, other than doing things what need done inside.

Ok, $25.00 later and I have two, Brand New yet freshly turned, rotors. Put them where they belong, installed caliper bracket and they clear. So everything is back together now, and test drive was made. All is good now. The Machinist that did them said, "I lightly hit the front face to be sure it was true, and then cut the back. Plenty left for a future turning if needed, if they're not in any really rough shape". Was going to put driveshaft in, but called it a day after the brakes were done.

Well, it seems the whole back face of the rotor is rubbing the caliper bracket. Pulled everything apart again. I don't have the flat-head screws that hold the rotor to the hub, but that should not make a difference once the wheel is put on. Installed rotor using some lug-nuts flipped so the flat was against the rotor. Tried to install caliper bracket and it really don't want to fit. Measured new against old for the brackets, seemed the same to me. Don't think one could get a good measurement off the old rotors, they are shot, period.. Said the hell with it, took both rotor's in to be turned. Can't think of any other reason they don't fit other than they're to thick. Cheap, "Made in China" rotor's, so I got what I paid for. And then some.

I stand corrected on the "roll backwards" statement. Just repeated what I've seen posted on this site in the past. Myself, I don't need that feature at all, so I remove it from the system. One less thing to deal with. Drove a 24' box truck for some 15 years, 5-speed manual w/2-speed rear diff. Had no problem holding it from rolling backwards on hills for the most part. Did roll backwards into a car once. Police cited the car driver for "failure to stop in an assured clear distance". The Officer was sitting in a parking lot and watched the driver pull right up to the rear of the truck. Told me that he knew that it was going to turn out bad for him.

Chasing similar clunk while turning in my '88 Wagon, been there since I put it on the road years back. So far, no joy in finding cause, and everything under the front is new, or still in good condition. Still digging away at source. Mostly does it turning into driveways or parking lots where the curb part of the approach is.

Properly adjusted, the Hill-Holder, (H-H), works on a 3* or better nose up angle. Adjusting it can be a pain for some, read that on here many times. Proper clutch free-play adjustment, then H-H adjustment. Clutch free-play is; At the pedal 13-20mm, .51-.74 in At the clutch fork, measured where the cable attaches, 3-4mm, .12-.16 in Full stroke, 25.5-27mm, 1.004-1.063 in FSM says that if the H-H don't hold, tighten it's cable adjustment' if it don't release, loosen it's adjustment. I recall a post from years back of Skip saying he adjusted the H-H so he could fit a dime between the spring coils on the valve, and it worked for him. The Emergency Brake should be fully released when handle is down, and activate 3-4 clicks up. If one decides to eliminate the H-H function, simply remove the cable from the clutch fork, and install a spring to pull the fork forward. I use a throttle return spring for that. I fully remove the H-H valve from the system using a T fitting to connect the brake lines. I like to be able to allow the vehicle to roll backwards down a hill if need be, the H-H won't allow that.

Free play measurements from the FSM; FWD At the pedal, 13-20mm .51-.74 in At the fork, 2-3mm .08-.12 in Full stroke 17-18mm .67-.71 in 4WD At the fork, 3-4mm .12-.16 in Full stroke, .67-71mm 1.004-1.063 in You measure at the fork where the cable meets the fork. edit; Jono's post made me question what I originally posted. Went back and looked again. Sure enough, I missed the 4WD measurements. Sorry about that.

Well, got out there at 8 this morning after picking up the new bearing and seals. Tore it apart, cleaned up the stub some more, installed bearing set back where it belongs. Went to install inner seal, and I have the wrong one. Typical... Number on package was right, someone stuffed the wrong seal in it. Turns out it is another outer seal. Trip back to parts store, no got seal, ordered replacement, be in Friday. On the way home, said heck with it and stopped at different store. They didn't have it in stock, but sister store did. So I went there and got it. All back together now. But it seams to be still rubbing. Haven't drove it any, just out of the garage. Thinking I'll pull the caliper back off and hit it with a file where it rubs the rotor. There seems to be a high spot in the caliper itself. Just a small area had rub mark on it when I took it off, and was thinking the small amount of play in the bearing was allowing the rotor to hit. Torpedo heater ran out of juice, so I'm done with garage work until I can get more kerosene. Whole 18* F out there with a good wind blowing and some strong gusts too. Don't take long for me to get to stiff to hold wrenches and whatnot. Just for the record; Bearing # 513056 Inner seal # 224015 Outer seal #225005 All National Brand part numbers.

Just ordered new bearing and seals, be in tomorrow. More money spent I don't have.

Yeah, Step-Daughter has an '07 Pontiac G5, aka Chevy Cobalt, same platform the HHR is built from. Jen's G5 has same engine/trans as the HHR does, but it will definitely run circles around this HHR. I no understand.... Anyways, back on the topic of SUBARU.... Took Wagon for a 6 mile jaunt. WOW!!! Brakes are much improved!!!! BUT,,,,,, it seems I suck at doing wheel bearings. Had scrapping sound from Left rear, got it back in the garage up in the air, wheel off. Rotor is rubbing the upper part of the caliper mount. Checked things over, and there is some play in the bearing. Attempted to tighten the inner bearing retainer ring some more, it don't seem to want to move any. Axle nut is torqued to 145+, new nut, cone/convex washers. I don't know......... Tad over 17,000 miles since I installed that bearing.

Ok. Been out here in the garage for the last 2 hours. Brought this here laptop out with me so I could reference things. Rear diff and axles are back where they belong. Lot of crud layered on the wheel axle stubs, fun getting that all cleaned off. Back on her wheels with everything at proper torque. Mileage on it is 265,574.4 Time to put a few more miles on her, see how new brakes and such are.

Was out in the garage yesterday wrenching on the '88 Wagon and recalled this thread. There is definitely differences in how the 3 studs go in the strut tower as far as angles go. Outer rear stud is higher than the front stud, rear inside stud is lowest of all 3. Now I'm wondering if I installed the XT6 struts in the correct orientation. I just stuffed them in where they go and put the nuts on. Struts from the XT6 spent some time sitting around before I installed them. Strut top could very easily have been turned from being moved around the garage. edited to correct stud height differences, had 'em wrong