TomRhere

Only issue I've had with swapping Y-pipes around on different vehicles is the rear hanger at the transmition. Had to convince them that they would line up correctly. But other than that, they fit.

Got to agree on the "cheap cable". Proper free play adjustment from the FSM says; 13-20 mm (.51-.79 in.) measured at the pedal, 2-3mm (.08-.12 in.) measured at the fork/cable attachment point, with 17-18mm (.67-.71in.) of full travel. I've always held a tape measurer against the seat and hook the free end to the pedal. Then push on pedal by hand until I feel the resistance, then note the amount it moved.. Never measured it at the fork.

Not if he lifts it during the install. Edit; There was supposed to be a quote in here about having to move gas tank, or using a fuel cell..

Driving the Cav wasn't that bad, did miss the manual trans part though... Put some money into fixing things on it, just to keep it running good. Now,,, that money seems to have been a waste. Oh Well.. Trip to S.O.S. last night was a bit of a bummer. They wouldn't transfer the tags over to the Wagon due to insurance not being updated in their system yet, even though I had proof of insurance on Wagon with me. $154.00 later and I'm out the door. Need to go back and do a transfer of plates from Cav to Wagon once I show them proper proof. That means more money out my pocket. Meeh!!! Gives me time to do a tad bit more on the Wagon to be sure it's road able.

Spent some time today checking things over, just to be sure on things again. When I was driving it before, I was loosing coolant. Evidence of coolant leak around T-stat housing and that end of the intake. Fired her up and let engine get up to temp. Put a wrench on all bolts for T-stat, intake, what have you. Some moved a bit, some didn't. Didn't reef on them, just wanted to see if they would move any with light force on the wrench. Picked up some new plastic nuts to mount the license plate come Wednesday, put them where the needed to be. Did a walk around checking all lights to be sure they are still functioning. All is good there. No evidence of mice invading it. Thank you... I have been keeping traps set in the garage, and been catching a few. Got to hit an ATM tomorrow, check my balance, then pick up a few items needed to get the 15 gallons of gas out of the Cavalier. Sucks that I just filled that tank and the engine goes on the way home from the gas station. Couple jaunts up/down driveway hitting the brakes to clean them of rust from sitting. Boy,,, were they grabby at first. Actually, when I first backed it out if the garage, it didn't want to move easily. Pads were stuck to the rotors. Been driving auto trans to long I guess, tried starting it once today without pushing in clutch pedal. That'll get your attention, real quick.

765061000 is the part number. I just Googled it and got quite a few hits various dealership and such.

I know the connector you found. Found same one in my '82 BRAT. Previous owner had hacked into the fuel pump wiring and installed a toggle switch. I repaired that mess and proceeded to hunt down cause of pump not running. Mine is a California Model thus it has (had) an engine computer along with the FPCU. Did the same as you with test light and hot wire to trace out the wiring, and found a wire that would power the fuel pump. I made it work, but it wasn't right. And definitely wasn't the safe way to do it

Well, 10 months later, I'm putting her back on the road. Haven't done any wrenching on her since I parked her. But the '99 Cav spun a bearing, and it's not worth the money it'll take to fix it. I'd rather spend it on my Subaru's... So, Wagon is being put back into service. Been amassing parts needed to redo another engine for it.

Cleaned all the tools and parts out of it. Put battery back in, fired it up. Backed it out of the garage. Time to put it back on the road.

Most of those connectors are for A/C relays and controls. Nothing it that area is fuel pump related. Subaru used one wiring harness for all vehicles basically, lots of unused connectors can be found. Your '82 has an internally regulated alternator. There is a Fuel Pump Control Unit (FPCU) mounted above the hood release handle. Kind of a pain to get to. If you search for FPCU on here, you should find quite a bit of info, as it comes up from time to time.

I have had issues on two separate Weber swaps both choke related. 1st. Make sure that the throttle cable is allowing the throttle plates to fully open. Have assistant floor the pedal as you look down the barrel of the carb. Engine off of course... You may have to tweak the cable mount bracket some, along with adjusting the cable to get throttle plates fully opened. Make sure there is slack in cable at idle position. 2nd. If using the Hitachi cable attachment plate on the Weber, make sure the barrel on the end of the throttle cable isn't interfering with any of the linkage on the Weber. A couple flat washers slipped on the throttle shaft then remount the plate helps there.

Water pump has weep holes in the housing that will let coolant out if the shaft seal fails. Feed tube to water pump has an O-ring where it fits to pump housing. Short 90* hose on the top of the water pump for the heater core line.

Yeah, that pesky little hose off top of engine to the T-stat housing. Coolant leak there will cover top of engine and look like it's coming from intake gaskets. Weep holes in the head at the sparkplug recesses let it run down both front and back of engine.

Doesn't matter which Blue wire you use, both are powered thru the ignition switch. One feeds choke coil, other feeds the ADS. I believe they actually split off a single feed somewhere back in the harness of the vehicle.

I used one of the Blue wires in the harness connection for the Hitachi carb harness.

The Anti-Diesel Solenoid (ADS) could be stuck or other wise failed. If it's stuck shut do to gummed up carb, engine won't idle. No timing light needed to check T-Belt timing. Pull outer cover sections, line up the three flywheel marks to the center mark, check for one cam dot up, other cam dot down. Doesn't matter which one is which, just matters that they are opposite each other.

Re-torque the axle nut(s). Not a lot, but a few have reported loose axle nuts after driving around, self included.

Almost every system in that XT6 is electrically operated, so a bad alternator is going to give you fits, and cause system damage left unchecked. Start by replacing or getting the alt rebuilt. Read of a few owners breaking/stripping the drive belt tensioner due to not loosening the nut holding the tensioner pulley.

Yep, 7/16 tap works great, no drilling involved. Leaves plenty of meat around hole for heli-coil later if one decides to do so. Works most excellent if it's one of the long studs that go thru the spacer block on EA81 engines, as you only need to tap threads in it, not the head. Done that many times.

I'll contact you after I get home from work today.

I have one out of an '88 XT6. Worked as it should when I scrapped the car. Swapping in a used one or converting to full shoulder/lap belt system are only options. Swapping can get involved to make things "look right".

I've found it easier to access the bumper bolts with the radiator removed. Gives a better view off things more than better access, but it works for me.

That is the best way to insure the bit is centered on the broken bolt.

There are freeze plugs under the valve covers. If they leak or pop out, you get coolant in oil. I would look there first.

Mac's Radiator Cleanser found at NAPA stores is some great cooling system cleaner. I've left it in a few systems for longer than directions say to, seemed to clean things up greatly.