TomRhere

I would use the old bearing and a piece of wood/metal against it to drive the race out if I didn't have any other means to do so. Careful use of a die-grinder or Dremel wheel may clean the seal area up.

Try car-parts.com see what that turns up around you.

Can't say I recall any tach issues in the BRATs during the cold months, but the speedometers sure didn't like it. Could peg the needle in 1st gear. The '88 Wagon don't like the cold either. Both tach and speedometer read slow. Have seen tach jump 500-1000 rpm's when temps are in the 20* F or lower and I head on down the road for work in the AM.

No need to weld the center diff, just lock it using the actuator all ready there. My '88 Wagon has the XT6 FT4WD trans in it. Had to pull rear drive shaft due to bad u-joints. Had to lock the center diff in, in order to drive it as a FWD vehicle. Running one as just RWD would be the same thing. BUT,,, the as stated, the gearing isn't designed for driving the rear only. Gearing for the rear drive are straight cut gears, they don't stand up to prolonged use or abuse. Yes, one can pull a front axle, shift into 4WD and drive around. I have done so on a couple of my Subaru's, due to bad front axle. There's ones on here that have T-cased their rides, locking trans into 4WD to do so, running on just the rear output. Been a few report they fubared the gears for the rear drive. It is not recommended to run RWD only for extended period of time.

Thinking I would start it up then pull/replace plug wires to find which cylinder is causing it to pop. Then double check that the plug wires are indeed on the correct plug. If the plug wires are correct, I would pull the cam cover off and check valve operation. It may be that a cam follower has fallen out. If the exhaust valve can't open, you will get a pop thru intake when intake valve opens.

Vin 4 for the part supplier. And stick with the Model year of '84 to insure you get correct parts. The EA82's came out in '85 and the parts get crossed up at most places.

'99 Chevy Cavalier, 2.2 Auto. 77,292 miles at title signing. Got some minor issues, but it's a damned nice ride for $500.00. Nothing major, just needs some TLC and it'll be good for a long time. KBB and NADA gives a low price on it in the $1,200.00 to $1,500 range, high in the $2,500 to $3,000 range. I'm happy with it. FWD 5-speed and related parts are still sitting where you saw them. Ready for you to take home when the time comes. Don't look as if snow will melt any time soon with these temps we're having. Brrr!!!!!!!! Now we're supposed to get more snow tonight, 25-35 MPH winds. More snow tomorrow, then even more Saturday. YeaHaw!!!! Snow blower ain't going to be able to toss much more over the mound of snow already there. Roads I travel to/from work get down right iffy with the wind blowing the "White stuff" around. Rich got hung up in his driveway last Monday. Couldn't get out with his '06 Canyon 4X4 with damn mean treaded tires on it. We both missed work that day, as he was going to pick me up, Wagon wasn't getting out of the driveway itself. Stuff needs to end, soon...

Picked up another vehicle to drive, so the Wagon has been taken off the road for a while. Got the Chevy all legal yesterday, swapped plates and insurance over off of Wagon. Apparently, Wagon wasn't happy about being parked. It bit me while removing the rear plate. Nice sized patch of skin removed from right thumb. Once weather and temps allow, I'll drag it over to the car wash and give it good rinse down to clean the salt off. Wagon needs work done that I just can't do and still have it available to drive for work on a daily basis. So, I jumped on a good deal for another vehicle. Now I can do the work at my own leisure and get some other things done I've been wanting to do as well.

One thing I didn't see mentioned in the thread is the injectors. Read a few threads of MPFI owners having issues with them, as in leaking when engine not running, or bad spray pattern(s) from them. Leaky/dirty injectors could be your issue here. I really don't know a lot about FI systems, just tossing out ideas.

Looks like a real decent shell to fix up. And yeah, it's nice to have "extra parts" laying around. Don't quite have the stash you do, but they do come in handy.

The rear disc brake parts are any EA82 Turbo or XT6 for pads and calipers. Rotors would be depending on 4-lug = EA82T, 5-lug = XT6. As for the speedometer still not working, cable may not be fully engaged at the dash still. I have not pulled one from a trans as of yet, but in this case I think I would do so. Then attach a cordless drill to that end and spin the cable, probably have to run drill in reverse. Have helper see if speedometer moves. Try pushing cable housing onto dash attachment more if it doesn't. Cable is removable from the outer housing, but again, I can't say for sure on which end it pulls out of.

Nope. No hammering of frame rails needed. It's a tight fit, but you'll have some clearance between the rails and cam covers once engine is centered up. I did move the hill-holder (silverhelme's proportioning valve ?), towards the firewall the distance of it's mounting holes, IE; front mount hole bolted to rear hole in frame. Gives a bit more room around disty. Speaking of disty, I left it out until engine was installed, helped getting engine past the master cylinder. But, you may not have that issue with a RHD vehicle

My '82 BRAT had an EA82 engine in it when I bought it. Pulled engine for reseal, and had issue with the mounts during the install. Mostly a side-to-side problem with the studs fitting the slots in the crossmember. I loosened the bolts holding engine mounts to engine, dropped it in and tightened those bolts back up. Wasn't easy to do either. Have had some mount studs wanting to hit the crossmember slightly forward of the slot, maybe the size of the studs diameter difference in where stud is and slot is. I just shoved, pried, forced engine rearwards until studs dropped in where they belonged.

Looks like the screw/plate from a Factory Original hose clamp.

Info on what bearings I bought is out in the garage, can get it later today. I followed the XT6 FSM when doing them, and having access to a hydraulic press really helped.

Bad inner axle joint, (DOJ), will cause that.

You will want to drain the system down some, but you will still loose some coolant from the heater hoses when you remove them. Getting the hoses off can be a pain, as you're finding out. Chances are, they are the original hoses and have sealed themselves to the tubes. Use a pair of pliers to twist the hose some, it may break free. Be careful though... You can crush or twist the tube if you get to rough with it. Best thing to do is get replacement hose, either the formed ones, or just some 5/8" heater hose. Cut the old hoses off the tubes by cutting a slit length wise, then peel the hose off. Clean any remaining stuff off the tubes with scotch bright.

Those be the heater hoses. I would swap them 1st for a bit then do a system flush, helps in breaking the stuff loose. Mac's Radiator Cleanser at NAPA is some good stuff. I've left it in longer than the directions say to do. You do need to flush the system of all anti-freeze before using it.

I didn't know that those were available. Need to get some myself.

Ordered a T-stat, along with other items, from the Dealership. T-stat I got was quite hefty and quite different than the one that came out of the EA82.

A halogen bulb in place of the stock bulb offers better lighting. Ran those in my '82 BRAT, same large rectangular bulb as yours. Driving/fog lights would help some. About it I believe if you're wanting to keep the stock look to the front.

With the numbers you posted, valve timing can't be off by much. Compression would be real low if cam was off enough to be cause of "no start". The engine in my Wagon did the same after I resealed it, crank but no start. Checked and rechecked everything, swapped disty, nada. Starting fluid didn't do anything either. I know it's not good on the starter, but I just held key in the crank position. It finally started to hit on a cylinder or two, then fired up. Been starting fine ever since. No idea as to what/why it did that.

I don't know if they did or not. The 2 I have are Dark Grey.

I need to get me another vac gauge, the one I have has seen better days. Still need to get it into the garage, maybe tomorrow. I did back the timing off some, just a slight bit without aide of timing light. No more spark knock. Seems to be running good though regardless. Gas mileage seems near what it was before engine swap. Filled tank, 100 or so miles driven, 1/4 tank of gas burned. So still on par with the 200+ miles at 1/2 tank I had before. We shall see.

The speedometer cable may not be installed on the speedometer drive correctly. You can see where it attaches to the drive if you stick your head under the dash. I find it easier to do so if I remove the seat first. Pair of long needle nose pliers work wonders for putting the cable where it's supposed to be.