TomRhere

Got to repair door seals on mine too. Always so much fun to do, Not...

'85 EA81 would have the hydraulic lifters. No adjustment needed on those unless heads have been milled or swapped from another engine. Thinking I would get a can of carb cleaner and one by one, spray all of the vacuum lines including the one going to the vac can behind the PS strut tower. Any change in engine speed indicates a vac leak. Might save you from pulling the carb. I've had that vac line to the vac can split on one of the BRATs.

Didn't find the paper I was looking for, just did a quick look-see out there. Do know, as Gloyale posted, Green/White (fused power) and Green (to back up lights), Blue/Red is from the 4WD indicator display, and one of the Blacks are ground. I will look harder for that paper tomorrow. Not feeling the best today.

Black connector is for the neutral switch. I have the complete pin-out for the White connector out in the garage. Will post back later with info.

No relay for the fan. Battery voltage fed to fan motor, thermo switch in radiator supplies ground, thru short bonding wire on the top of the radiator to body. Bonding wire should be just to the left of hood latch as you look at it from the front. Un-plug the fans motor and wire directly to battery to check if it actually works. Plug motor back in, un-plug wire at thermo switch, and hook it to battery -, fan should run. If it does, thermo switch or bonding wire is the issue. Provided, there is voltage coming to the fan motor, (not sure of fuse involved right now, will find out though).

Agreed. And it's more likely to be the front one.

bratman18 I'll take those from you. PM me a price, shipping would be to 49242. Another drive around the area was made. Developed an exhaust leak, not bad, but there. Turned out to be the stud stripped out of the head, rear bolt on DS. I double-nutted the stud when I installed it and hit torque setting. Same when installing the nuts to hold Y-pipe on, hit torque value. No clue as to why it stripped out, but I have a 7/16" stud in there now. No hills to speak of where I drove, just a jaunt around the area. Still has a "off-idle" hesitation, but goes good once I get moving. Bought some MAF cleaner and some Sea-Foam. Got back here and cleaned MAF. Sucked some off the SF thru the vac line for the heater, and proceeded to get the dog all irritated. Sheba was not "happy" with my "it's to get rid of the bugs" explanation. Tossed some spare T-belts and "other items" in the back, will load tools later. Going to be an interesting trip into work tomorrow. Been one heck of a 4 day weekend. I'm ready for a day or two off.........

Just in from the garage again. Previous mentioned issues were coolant leaks, various hoses. Guess I can't rely on using a screwdriver vs. socket/ratchet to tighten clamps. Got an intermittent stumble at idle, and seems to be there as I give it more throttle while in neutral. Timing of cams and disty is dead on. SPFI intake and related items are from the '92 engine, same for disty along with cap/rotor/wires. That engine ran good from memory. Got to scrape some money up and get all new for the plugs/wires/cap/rotor, but they all look and check out ok. When I 1st attempted to start it yesterday, it did not want to fire up. I used the disty that was with the engine that came with the Wagon when I got it, so it was an "unknown". Swapped disty with the one from the '92 and still didn't want to start. Sprayed some starting fluid into intake, still no go. Said "THWI" and just held the key in start position. She eventually started to fire on a cylinder or two, then all four. Real rough at first, but smoothed out some. HLA's rattled something fierce also, but they finally quieted down. Set the timing, closed the hood and went for a drive. Maybe 20 miles total, and it seemed okay for the most part. It has/had a flat spot pulling hills. Steepest one I hit I was doing 55 mph, and it just bogged down, no response to throttle, downshifting to 4th helped, but not much. Got it back home, popped the hood and found coolant all over the place. So, I'm thinking she got a bit warmer than what gauge was showing. Don't know... Called it a day. Got out there today and checked all of the hose clamps, screwdriver wouldn't budge them, socket would. No more leaks now. Rechecked T-belt and ignition timing, all is good. Going to do another spin around the area, see what it does.

Most likely the speedometer has transmition lube in it. The seal on the lower end of the speedometer cable fails, allowing lube to work it's way up the cable into the speedometer. My White '86 BRAT would do the same thing on real cold mornings. I watched the needle peg a few times while still in 1st gear. When I parted it out, I found the back of the cluster covered in gear lube. Never done it myself, but do believe you can replace that seal, clean the lube out of the cable, and clean the speedometer.

It runs, it drives, it has issues. Nothing that can't be fixed with some more time. Called it a day about an hour ago. I be whooped "old puppy"!!!!

Been trying to get pics linked, but they won't go thru for some reason. Anyways, got the EA81 out, EA82 back in. Still have radiator hoses/coolant, oil/filter, Y-pipe, mount nuts yet to do. Should have it running later today. Got my usual Saturday errands to run, then a trip to the parts store for new fluids.

Spent time out in the garage cleaning up from the engine reseal, and making room to get the Wagon in. Started getting the engine ready to pull. All that's left is to drop the Y-pipe and hook up the lift. Company arrived, so it was time to come in for festivities. Be back out there early tomorrow morning.

To drop the blower housing out, you need to drop the tray under the glove box, then pull the glove box out. You can get to all of the bolts holding the unit in after that. Need to undo the strap around the connection to the A/C housing or A/C bypass tube also, along with the electrical connection to the blower unit.

Basic pic of what I started with, http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/88%20GL%20Wagon/001-1.jpg Lots of cleaning later, http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/88%20GL%20Wagon/004.jpg http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/88%20GL%20Wagon/002-1.jpg Not sure if I'll leave the silver paint on the parts I painted. It was all I had here at the moment. Had to do something to cover them after cleaning the rust off. Got to pick up some hose of various sizes to redo the coolant and vac lines, then manifold is ready to go on. T-belts are used, but new shall be bought soon. Ready to go in next weekend though. Other parts bought, clutch pack http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/88%20GL%20Wagon/010.jpg exhaust/intake gaskets, http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/88%20GL%20Wagon/015.jpg head gasket, need to get 2 of these if you go thru O'Rielly's, come in single pack. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/88%20GL%20Wagon/011.jpg More pics to come.

Don't have a good pic to post. But, if you remove the whole air filter box, then place your Right Hand to the Right of the carb with thumb touching the carb, your little finger will be fairly close to one. That one reads ambient air temp, screws into a plate that is held to the intake by 3 bolts, Black plastic insulator block holds it away from the intake. Not sure if there was one that read coolant temps or not. No EA81 manifolds around here to look at any more.

Do believe the lever you want is accessed by pulling the package tray under the glove box. Actuating lever for Defrost has most likely popped out of the clip, or clip has broke. Been a while ago, but had to prop the Defrost lever in the open position on one of the BRATs.

More pics please!!! She do look good!

Good news indeed.. To bad you weren't closer to me. Got a friend that owns a body shop, he could use the work.

Progress is slow on getting the EA82 engine done. Shop put us on 10 hour days again, so I only have weekends to do wrenching. Over the last 4 weekends, I've cleaned all of the engine parts, they be all shiney now. I carefully removed the piston rings and cleaned the grooves of the pistons. Oil rings were basically seized, and had to work at getting them off. Put rings back on the pistons. Spent yesterday installing pistons, heads, oil pan. More time spent cleaning up all of the bolts involved to do so. I had to make my own oil pan gasket as the one I had bought was for the EA81 not the EA82. No biggy, done that before, and this probably won't be the last time either. Gooped it all up with some Ultra Black, let it cure, put the pan on. New front/rear crank seals, Brute-Force XT6 clutch pack installed on freshly turned XT6 flywheel. I used Felpro Perma-Torque head gaskets and did GD's method of adding 5 more Ft-Lbs. of torque as the 4th and final stage. Had the camera out there, but totally forgot about taking pics. Be heading back out to do more in a couple hours. Time to start cooking breakfast.

Manually adjusted rear drums will have an adjuster bolt at the bottom of the backing plate. Look at the backside of your brakes, there will be a bolt at the bottom if they are manually adjusted. May still have the rubber cover over it, may not. But if there is a bolt there, they're manually adjusted ones. And yeah, over all cost, drums are cheaper than discs for the rear for the Manufacturers.

Bad mounts, either engine or trans, can cause axle issues.

Not so much of pull the diff, just need to drop it down. Bolts on that hanger bracket go all the way thru the diff. Can be a pain to do if they've rusted in any.

I would still check the connections. What's the issue with the high idle? Only problem I had with cold starts was it wanted to do like 2,500 + unless I kicked the throttle after it started. Would do like 1,200-1,500 after that until it warmed up.

1st, I would check the small connection at the starter, make sure it's a clean snug fit. 2nd, would be the ignition switch getting worn, not making good contact. 3rd would be the wiring connector for the ignition switch, Pink connector under steering column. Tends to get hot at connection for the White wire, then it starts losing contact. The multiple tries then starts leads me to go for the 1st two. Was good to have you 2 down here again.

Yeah. If I had the cash to do the drive out and back, or to fund the trucking cost. That BRAT would be sitting in my driveway. A '78 for $1,000.00, bad motor or not, is a steal...