TomRhere

If you have a hole in the case, then you need a new engine. EA71 is only option for direct swap. An EA81 and it's D/R 4-speed can be swapped in fairly easy if you have the knowledge/capability to do so. It would be the easiest swap if an EA71 can't be located. That is just going by what I've read on here, no actual hands-on experience.

I built a dual exhaust system under one of my BRAT's using 2" tube. It did not like it... 1-7/8" ID from the heads back to about a 26" length, then go up to a 2"ID system is about the best you can do.

Well, so much for my theory on it being an electrical problem. '78 would be an EA71 engine. Car-part.com is a good place to search for needed stuff. Use BRAT, Sedan, Wagon to open up more possibilities of finding another EA71 engine. There are other engine/trans possibilities, but they would require some modifications. Some easy, some involved.

I would definitely have it sitting in my driveway, regardless of why it doesn't run. I would guess it's more of an electrical issue than engine issue.

Should you need any of the various T-belt cover pieces, I have a few engines worth of them here.

Dremel works very well. I used some small stones in my cordless drill. You can leave it as is, but I prefer to blend things for a better flow. I also used an EA82 intake instead of the EA81, just because there is a larger carb port in the EA82. Not a "got to do it thing". Been a few Members post that they used JB Weld and some screen (as fill) to plug that coolant port. We have a heli-arc at work and a guy that really knows how to use it, so I had mine welded shut. Again, you can leave it be, but there is the chance of a coolant leak. Some do, some don't.

Not a Gen 3, but I do like this bumper. http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag77/evan1882/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsd79322a6.jpg

Spark plugs and spark plug wires are what we were saying. What brand plugs and wires? Really shouldn't be doing that with new parts. Make sure all wires are fully seated on coil, cap, and plugs. Would also suggest that you clean all of the ground wires. Main battery cable to engine, small wire battery to body, one from spare tire shelf to trans. If yours is SPFI there is another ground or two. Something is causing a lot of resistance, thus the arcing at the coil. Could be a bad coil high tension lead too,the one that goes to the disty. New or not, it happens.

I have blended the port opening of the manifold and adapter. Best to have the small coolant hole in the front of the carb port on the manifold welded shut, it's not needed for the Weber. You can remove those two thermal vacuum switches. Not sure what those 2 sensors are for, don't recall them on my EA81 manifold. #1 should be temp sensor for the dash gage. #2 is port for the tube from the head for the EGR. Can be plugged if you delete EGR, but there is no real reason to do so. Doesn't really effect engine performance. #3 is heater core tube, kinda need that.

Rolled the odo over 260,000 miles. '88 Wagon. That's on the body only, everything else has been replaced with new or newer used stuff.

http://philbingroup.com/ They rebuild disty's. New bushings, vac can, etc..

New wires for sure. Maybe some new plugs also.

Still, it boils down to whether the A/C compressor is inboard of the alt (factory A/C) = 105mm pump, or if the A/c compressor is outboard of the alt (non/aftermarket) = 110mm. There are work-arounds to use either pump, but that is the jist of what they are for.

Thanks for the link and info. Thinking I ought to get some for the Wagon.

What is this "fluid film" stuff?

Have you tried car-part.com ? They list fenders for the EA82 models. Price is all over the place depending on who has them listed. I've bought a few items from sellers listed on there for various vehicles. I'll be around here next weekend for sure. Shouldn't have to work Saturday, but I'd be home by noon if I do. Sunday is always good. As always, bring lot's of money, . Beer is always welcomed too. Miller Lite, please... I have some more EA81 parts, so either you or Travis may want to pick them up also. Basically items I won't be needing regardless of what I do with the '82 BRAT.

Much darker Blue than what your Wagon appears to be in pics on here. edit; No PS fender, just this one. end edit. And bratman18, I basically forgot about the fender being up there in the rafters the past 3-4 years. Been stuffing more stuff up there and had to move it.

Tried 4 times to get dent image to show, not happening.. More pics in the album when you click on the link.

Fender small dent http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/Parts/0022.jpg dome light Fender has been bounced around here and down to 86subaru's place, has some scratches but nothing what won't be sanded out.

Got to agree with MilesFox's last post, especially about the rust. Have cash in hand, start low on the offer, see what they counter with.

Duralast p/n 2-0430DL. $20.00 each from AutoZone, greasable. CARQUEST lists some also.

Possible that someone replaced the u-joints. AutoZone has Duralast p/n 2-0430DL $20.00 each for replacements, come with zerk in them. If the cap seals are a reddish color, chances are they are those. CARQUEST also lists greasable u-joints for the EA82s

110mm pump, the drive pulley bolts on. 105mm pump, has studs to mount the clutch fan. If one finds that they got the 105mm unit instead of the 110mm unit, you can install some studs and slip washers on those before installing the drive pulley, then install the nuts. Read about that trick on here a few years back. Studs are the same as one would find holding the carb to the manifold. Should be able to find them on a "HELP" rack at a parts store.

Totally forgot about the dome light. I claim "old-timer's" on that. Still sitting on the shelf I laid it on. Believe I have a DS fender up in the rafters. Will check on that a bit later. Rear bearings are easy to do on the FWD models.

CONGRATULATIONS !!!