TomRhere

Yep. EA82 Y-pipe will bolt directly to the EA81 heads. Currently running an EA81 in my '88 Wagon originally an EA82, same Y-pipe, just no ASV spacers on the EA81.

Wagonist has a good method. But I do believe a 1/4" drive socket/extension/ratchet will let you reach the bolts also.

Plug wires for 1 & 3 swapped. As Miles posted, "vac leak". Vacuum port on the intake runner for 1 & 3, feeds the EGR and Purge solenoids along with the Heater controls. If there is a vac leak there, it will seriously lean-out 1 & 3. Found that one myself.....

You have to leave that ASV spacer in there unless you swap the Y-pipe from an EA82 in. Just not enough pipe above the bend for the EA81 Y-pipe to fit with out some serious rubbing, if it would fit at all. You can cut the tubes off next to the flange nut and weld a piece of metal over the end. If,, the nut holding the tube will come out, remove the tubing, cut it and keep the nut. A quarter placed in the port, then the nut will do nicely to close it also.

Heater core and hoses will hold some coolant. And the engine block does not fully drain when the head plugs are pulled. May still be some in the bottom of radiator. Whether all of that fluid adds up to 1/2 gallon, I can't say. Do know the engine has coolant left in it after pulling the drain plugs. Had one on the engine stand to pull heads, rotated it to one side and coolant hit the floor. Same thing when I rolled it the other way to pull opposite head.

Color matched Velcro was my thought as well when the DS visor in one of the BRATs did that. Never did it though, just carried a stubby Phillips screwdriver in the door pocket.

I would start spraying the rear axles down with some PB Blaster now, and continue doing so for a bit, can't really say how long. But I would spray them every other day or so, just to get some of it soaking in. Rear axles tend to seize to the stubs on both the rear diff and at the trailing arm. I would also spray some on the bearing retainer nut on the trailing arm.

The clutch spring from a FWD can be used on a 4WD clutch fork when the Hill-Holder has been removed. I'm using a throttle return spring off some other vehicle on my '88 Wagon. All that's needed is a spring of proper length, and not a lot of tension when stretched. All the spring is supposed to do is pull the throw-out bearing away from the pressure plate when the clutch is engaged.

As long as the parts are in good condition, the appearance of the package is no issue. I've bought a few things from one of the local parts stores that's been in business for a few decades. Packages were like you described, but parts were good. There are 2 different types of rear bearings for the 4WD EA81/EA82 rear, has to do with total number of components. But they are fully interchangeable, so don't fret over that difference.

Finally got things needed to measure the piston-deck height on these. In the order pictured, '92 SPFI deck is .0 '88 SPFI deck is .028 '85-6 carb is .028 And yes, I did get the piston to move in that very rusty cylinder on the carb block.. I was surprised...

Liking this, a lot!!!

I was under the impression that the rods at least would be different due to the off set. Good to know there's no difference.

Been amassing parts to reseal one of the engines here. Started tearing one down and found things that confused me, so I started this thread; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141568-iding-ea82-blocks/ So more parts to be scrounged. In process of cleaning all of the engine components right now. Been a hectic week otherwise. The EA81 that's currently in the Wagon tried committing suicide, twice. Oil filter decided to crack, causing a severe loss of oil. Got new filter and oil. Not a good thing to have happen whilst going down the road at 55mph, lifters start rattling severely, look at oil pressure gage and there ain't no pressure = AAAAAAHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!! Had been hearing a whistle coming from under the hood, tracked it down to a broken nipple on the EGR solenoid. In messing with hose to get it off so I could plug the leak, I unhooked the temp sender's wire without noticing I did so. Noticed temp gauge not working as I headed into work next morning. Made a mental note to check things out during lunch, and continued on towards work. Bad idea..... Had a heater hose pop off, (swear I tightened the clamp, honest), she got quite hot before I noticed it. Still running, but I think she's hurt. Just don't seem to be running the same, as in, a bit down on power. Not real bad, just doesn't pull hills like she did before. Got no choice but to drive it until I get another engine ready to swap in. I'm checking oil and coolant levels daily, just to make sure I'm not using more than before. So far, staying at proper levels on both.

I 1st read Gloyale's postings this morning before I had my 1st cup of coffee down. Made my brain hurt. Reread it a few minutes ago, kinda understand it all now. I've looked at all of the EA82's here, 2 are known carbed, 2 SPFI. All of them have threads for the knock sensor, cleaning the gunk out of the bore helps one to see that. edited for correct info; The 2 carb blocks, and the one that was in the '92 Wagon, have a bore for where the extra case vent on a MPFI would be, but they are not completely thru. The '88 SPFI block just has a bump in the case where that vent would be. end edit: Going with what Gloyale posted about the offset wristpins in the later SPFI engines, my plan of swapping pistons between blocks doesn't seem like a straight forward swap, without swapping connecting rods and/or cranks also. That will be more money involved for bearings, wasn't planning to do those.... I recall reading on here of people putting SPFI pistons in EA81's, so it does sound doable. Or am I missing something? But then again, I know nothing about the engine as far as mileage and such either. So,, a full rebuild is really, the best way to go.

Now, those pistons look like the 92 pistons I have, just from the tops. I still have one piston in the 92 block, stopped pulling them when I found the cracked skirt. I can put a piston back in the 88 block, see if I can get a decent measurement between them. Do know the deference between the 2 as far as deck height was quite apparent, as in .075-.100 or so, just looking at them by eye. The 88's sat lower in the bore.

@ Quidam, Interesting info you posted. I'm still learning these Subaru's, and haven't really tore into the engines this far. Only one carbed EA82, and one EA82T reseal from the head gaskets out on both. No real comparison there. The piston to deck height you mentioned is apparent in these two engines, I didn't mention that earlier. The '88 dished pistons do sit below the deck some, where the '92 pistons seem to be more flush with the deck. I have no real way to measure the difference. Kinda wondering now, what the pistons in the two ER27's I have here look like........ I recall reading on here, or the XT6 site, that those pistons are the same as the SPFI EA82 pistons as far as comp ratio goes, 9.5-1.

Thanks for the pics of the Turbo pistons Jono. Much appreciated...... Definitely a deeper dish in those compared to the pistons I have here.

More piston difference pics, '88 SPFI piston on the right, '92 SPFI piston on the left. Then,,, I found tis on the '92 piston for #3, Bummer......

Just looked at mine while under the hood and remembered this thread. As you face the engine, right side hose feeds over to the charcoal canister, front most steel line on the bracket on top of the T-stat housing. If you removed canister, that one should be capped. Actual vacuum supply for the Purge solenoid comes from the intake manifold, and tees in with the line for the heater controls. Hose on the left of throttle body feeds the EGR solenoid.

Pic of 2 EA82 5-speeds. D/R on the right, P/B one on the left.

Pics of the '92 EA82 SPFI engine; Again, a pic of the EA82 piston top that came with the Wagon, SPFI parts were included, but engine was torn down to the short block. Pic of known EA82 carbed piston, So 3 different piston tops, 1 is known carb, 1 is known SPFI. 1 is supposed to be SPFI, but I can't prove that, came with the '88 Wagon. I be confused....

Retractable ones mount to the outside of the seats. Thinking there is a "R" and "L" stamped on them.

It will take a bit of time to clear the coolant out of the exhaust, depends on amount that's in the exhaust system, and how much may still be in the cylinder. Did you swap out the plugs that had coolant on them, or just clean them? Have had some plugs that wouldn't fire after being drowned in coolant.

It has the appearance of being aluminum itself, so if it were to melt, I think the engine would have started to melt also. But that's just my thought on it.

If that is what it is, then it's good to know that it never got hot enough. And there is no large vent on the block.