TomRhere

Found that while cleaning the heads.

Ok. Well there's no vent tube that I can see. Haven't pulled flywheel yet to see if that plate is back there, I do know what it looks like... Do know piston tops look nothing like the ones from the '92 parts Wagons SPFI engine. Those have the valve reliefs in them, no squarish dish, arrow pointing to the front along with the "UP". That engine is sitting at the work place so no pics of it. Going to bring it home tomorrow, get pics then.

Hmmm. Makes me wonder now. Pic of piston top is from engine that came with the '88 Wagon when I picked it up. Engine was disassembled down to the short block and we tossed it the back of the Wagon. Heads that came with engine are N/A EA82, and I got the SPFI intake also. Wagon is definitely wired for SPFI. 1st EA82 engine I've been around that's had the threads in it for the knock sensor other than the 1 Turbo model I helped reseal way back when.

Yeah, a thrown rod, regardless of engine design, makes one heck of a mess of things.......

Any 4WD EA81 bodied tank will fit, they're all the same. FWD tanks will fit if you have yours lifted, thinking 4" lift is needed. FWD EA81 tanks don't have the detent for the rear diff, but they also hold 2 more gallons of go juice.

Also check the vac supply line to that canister for good connection at manifold and/or cracks. I've had one that split along it's length, and another that came off the manifold.

Got a few EA82 engines here, most are disassembled. Got them thru various trips to Members houses. I have what I believe to be 2 carbed blocks, and I'm fairly sure in that deduction. Currently in process of cleaning another block up for reseal and install in my Wagon. But I'm thinking it might be a Turbo block vs. an SPFI block that I was thinking it was. Here's pic of the piston top; Besides the squarish dish in the piston top, the bung for the knock sensor is tapped. That makes me think it's a Turbo block. Am I correct on that thought? Only seen one Turbo engine, and that's been some 6-7 years ago.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/92%20Loyale%20Wagon/009.jpg http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/92%20Loyale%20Wagon/010.jpg

I believe the outer part of the shifter knob is molded around that White center piece. I was thinking along the same line as you are, moving the button to the dash somewhere. I just noted where each of the wires connected to the switch and un-soldered them to remove switch from shifter knob. Haven't installed switch anywhere as of yet.

Intake bolt did not want to be nice, so I pulled both heads and have the offending one in the Wagon along with the engine. I'll be dropping an XT6 flywheel off at the local auto machine shop for a reface. Time to go spend lots of money......

Started tearing down the EA82 engine yesterday for a reseal. Of course,,, one of the intake bolts snapped. Grrr. There's enough of it above the surface to get a grip on, so I have it soaking in PB Blaster. Got another set of heads here, so if the broken intake bolt don't want to cooperate, I can just swap it out. Both cams and the rockers look like they are new. Very little wear showing on any of the contact surfaces. Had me thinking that a PO had installed some reground cams, just going by the look of them and the different exhaust note this engine had. But a check of measurements against another set of SPFI cams proved them to be the stock cams. I'll be back out there after breakfast to finish the tear down. Then I get to start the fun of cleaning all the yuck of the parts. I'll be loading the short block into the Wagon so I can get it to the shop to see if we can get the broken oil pump bolts out.

No more chirp from the T-O bearing. Spark-knock has disappeared.

Go to this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/126047-my-83-gl-safariwagon-iii/page-68 Posts 1681 and 1683 have pics of the D/R 4-speed showing linkage and stuff.

Played with disty timing after work today, set timing to 19* for now, we'll see what that does in the AM. I do have a bottle of 104 octane booster sitting on the shelf if need be. Also gave the clutch cable a bit more slack at the fork, see if that helps any on the T-O bearing any. It did seem to be some what to tight, as in not much "play" room. Need it to last a bit longer whilst I scrape money together.

On the D/R 4-speeds, look at the right hand side of the trans, just under where the starter sits, but near top of trans. You should see a rod/lever. That is the Hi/Low Range selector. It may be that yours needs some adjustment, or the rod is bent, or pivot points are worn. There are 2 distinct detents for 4WD and Low Range on the shifter.

Still haven't located source of clunk in the frontend. Developed some spark-knock now, pulling some of the steeper hills around here. Timing is where it should be, so I'm thinking it's the gas I bought. Not sure.. Throw-out bearing is wanting to make some noise now. GREAT!!! Time for new clutch pack. YIPEE YAY!!!!

Ok. I found a dome light, and I do have an extra PS tail light assembly. No rear bumper.... For the FWD 5-speed stuff, flywheel/clutch assembly still on engine, shifter/boot, pedal box w/cable. Shifter trim piece is currently in the '88, but I plan to swap console out to the '92's, so that will be available. Don't have any axles to go with it.

Ideally, you would want to run vac line to a storage canister, then out to the solenoids. Use a check valve in the line from vac source to canister. But with that said, I have the solenoid vac supply "Tee'd" in to the vac line to the canister line, before the canister. Not sure as to the "why" of it, but if I put the solenoid line after the canister, it messes with my heater controls. I'm running an XT6 FT4WD trans in mine, but the controls are identical between it and the Pushbutton 4WD trans.

What model/year?

I'll be putzing around out in the garage today. I'll look for the dome light, and take inventory of FWD trans parts. Not sure if I have a rear bumper. Parts Wagon had a rusty tube bumper, and I twisted it while trying to remove the ball from it, so it was scrapped.

Nice! Thinking I have an extra dome light or two here. Also, have a FWD 5-speed trans, with most everything needed to swap it in. Would have to look to make sure on what is all here.

The hose would connect to a vacuum supply on the intake manifold. You can "tee" into an existing line if need be.

There is another similar size hose on the back of the intake manifold. Suggest you change it also. If you don't know the age of the heater and radiator hoses, change them as well.

Power for gage and Low Fuel Light is from fuse 12 on a Black/White wire. At the sending unit, low fuel is White/Yellow wire, Gage is Black/Yellow. Both gage and low fuel light are grounded thru the tank/body of vehicle.

Good to see you back on here. Welcome back.