TomRhere

Sending unit for the fuel gage is on the rear of the tank, electrical connectors are there also. Check the connections for corrosion. Been the cause of my gage issues on all 5 of the BRATs I have owned.

Some lube on the pivot point of the pedal may help also.

It can be done... but it is not a simple "un-bolt this and bolt this on" type of swap. I "stumbled upon" a bracket that would allow me to bolt the EA82 PS pump onto my EA81 engine. Had to modify the belt pulley, make a tensioner up, then decided to drop the whole thing. Couldn't get the belt to stop squealing.............. Do still have PS rack, just no pump. Did find that Turboed EA81's, had a PS pump that mounted similar to the EA82's. Maybe that is the bracket I have, but I still had to modify it to fit engine and for belt clearances. EA82 PS rack will physically bolt under the EA81 crossmember, after removing the plate mentioned earlier in this thread, and opening up the hole where the input shaft of the column attaches. Tie-rods can be a bit of a challenge to get right. Found some that would not work......

Just be sure you route it properly in the engine compartment also. Once it comes out of the firewall, it should run "UNDER" the steering column and the heater hoses.

Haynes Manual #89003 is a better one in my opinion. I have both it and the Chilton's, and find the Chilton's one lacking...

Had issue with my EA82 loosing coolant, no "puddle" left in the driveway. Always started it up and drove out of the shop's parking lot after work. But I seemed to always be adding coolant to it. Found that it was leaking from the O-ring for the supply pipe to the water pump. It would leak when cold, but stop leaking when it warmed up.

I have an extra MAF (complete unit) hanging out in the garage. Not sure what year it's from, but I can swap it into the Wagon and make sure it's a good one.

Fairly sure the #1 on yours, and the #2 on the "new" one is just the cavity ID numbers of a multi-cavity mold for the plastic of the housing. No idea on the other difference of them.

Link to post on alignment results/questions. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/140645-alignment-questions-88-wagon/ Haven't done any work to it, just been digging around looking for info and ideas on alignment. That's one thing I'm not real knowledgeable on, got a good rough idea on things, just not one of my better suits. Found what I believe to be good info, we shall see. I'll do some wrenching, get another appointment made. This past Friday, I used the Wagon to aide in dropping an 18' tall tree trunk. Tree had been topped out roughly 6 years ago, time to drop the trunk before it decides to do so itself. Hooked rope to the top of it and to the trailer hitch, cut the trunk at ground level. As I started pulling on it with the Wagon, I heard a lot of popping/clunking from the front suspension, (still running on front wheel drive only). Took a couple pull attempts before trunk finally gave way and toppled. But pop/clunk happened every time. Haven't looked at it yet. Spent the day yesterday cleaning up that mess, and getting the pool closed down for the Winter.

If you go with the EA81 engine, you would need different Y-pipe, and transmition. The Wagon would be the better buy. Lot's of body/interior items will work on your BRAT. The 5-speed would work, but you'd loose 4WD.

Solid rotors are thinner than vented ones. Once the pads wear enough, you will most likely have one of the pads remove itself from the caliper during braking. Had that happen to me. I was fortunate to be very near my driveway. It is not advisable to put a solid rotor on in place of a vented one, unless you change the caliper and bracket.

Interesting replies. Thanks. It was obvious that Terry hadn't seen a Subaru of this year/Model on the rack as he didn't know what to choose from the list of vehicles on the screen. There was a choice of XT, but no XT6. I told him to go with the GL/GL10 Model, Wagon as the body type. I've been digging around here and other places trying to get an idea or two on just what the proper settings should be for all four corners. I've found info regarding the rear settings/adjustments, but those are for the "stock" setup, same as the machine gives. Still digging around. One more question; Should the Wagon sit level, or should there be a slight forward rake to it.? I really can't tell by looking at pics of others on here, mine seems to be level. edit; Never mind that last question. Found ride height info...

Took the Wagon in for an inspection/alignment yesterday. Happy to say I was really close in setting things by eye for the front end. But,,, it's still not totally right, so I has questions for those what know. Wagon has the XT6 5-lug conversion done to it. Here are the readings when I left the shop, Left Front: Camber = 1.8* Caster = 2.1* Toe = -0.28* Right Front: Camber = 1.9* Caster = 2.5* Toe = -.22* Total toe = -0.50* Steer ahead = -0.03* Left Rear: Camber = -1.2* Toe = 0.34* Right Rear: Camber = 0.0* Toe = -0.47* Total toe = -0.12* Thrust Angle = 0.40* Questions follow now; For the Right front caster being out of range, would loosening the radius rod bolts, both on the LCA and it's rear mount bracket allow me to shift things more towards the proper setting? I'm thinking that way.. Also contemplating slotting the holes in the LCA to allow movement between it and the radius rod. Thoughts on that are welcomed. For the rear settings; Tech doing the work couldn't really improve on what initial readings were, he even called their other shop to talk with their tech. 2 brains are better than 1 most times. Left rear needs to move rearwards 1/8". Right rear needs to move forwards 1/8". At least according to his knowledge of how all of the geometry works out. And that's just to get the rear toe close, camber may fall into to place then. So,,, question there is, what about slotting the holes where the outer/inner arms attach to each other? That would, allow for more adjustment. Every suspension component under this Wagon came from various vehicles, nothing is original to it. Terry, the guy working this alignment was really impressed with the Wagon. When he called the other shop his words were, "I have a gorgeous 1988 Subaru Wagon on the rack right now". Terry was also impressed with the mods I've done to it, and the story line of how it came to be. His Aunt used to drive a Justy.

Really didn't give the tires all that much thought. Did swap them around though, just to see if it made a difference. It didn't, so no more thoughts on that as cause. Bought those tires new, but how long had they been sitting around is anyone's guess, and tires do have a shelf life. The tires on it now aren't worn much at all. But they sure changed the handling of the car. Got an 8:00 appointment this morning with the alignment shop. We shall see what is discovered still needing repaired, or if it's ready for proper alignment now.

The steering wheel shake is gone. YAY!!!!! Going to be taking it to an alignment shop, let them look things over.

Had tires off of it yesterday, just looking things over again. Noticed some issues with the inner sidewalls of 2 tires, looked like air bubbles in them. Just got back from buying 4 used Kumho Solus KH16's in the 175/70-14 flavor for $190.80 out the door. These are a 23.65" tire which keeps it in the stock 13" range. We shall see if things change on the current issue.

Those are the solenoids. There is another section of wiring harness for them though. About 10" long, all taped up, with matching White connectors that plugs between body harness and solenoids. That section of harness contains 2 diodes under all of the tape.

Not sure of "New Gen" owners, but there's a few of us "Old Gen" owners around the area. Welcome to the Board..

Been waiting for you to get back to this one.......

Drive axles were in the XT6 when I bought it, converted to coils vs. air before me. Parted out the XT6, kept all the goodies. Even though body was rough, she drove good. Struts are in great condition to look at them, and give proper rebound response when I bounce the Wagon. Struts look like they are just out of the box, can still read all of the writing on them, easily. I do not have the driveshaft, nor the rear diff in, period. Trans output is sealed off with good fitting "make-do" plug. Trans is the XT6 FT4WD 5-speed, center diff is locked in, no go if it ain't.

Not much of any real work done to the Wagon, just been driving it. Gas mileage is still in the 32+ MPG range. I have been trying to find the cause of the steering wheel shake it gets at speeds over 50 mph. Not always there though, comes and goes. Been doing it all along since I put the Wagon on the road. I drive the same roads every day, shake will happen here, but not there. Then it will do it on this section of road when it didn't do it the day before. Hills and curves don't seem to matter any, it'll do it or it won't. I've rotated the tires all around the car so each tire has been on every corner of the car. Been under the car while Christopher turns the steering wheel, don't find anything loose or odd movement. Gone over every nut/bolt to make sure things are properly torqued. New wheel bearings and ball-joints. Tie-rods appear to be in good shape. No movement of the rack in the mount bushings. Steering coupler is good. Strut tops are good. So what am I not seeing?????

Nice. Had an '84 GL BRAT, auto, no fun tops on it,

Harve called the owner yesterday to ask more questions, she literally chewed him a new one because he didn't fix it before and is asking her all these questions. I guess he was just suppose to know what the issue is. I won't be asking any more questions about this, but it would be nice if the thread continues so heartless and any others can fix their vehicles. Thanks for your time.

Harve was out of town for the weekend. 4 door sedan, all 4 door switches are unplugged, no knowledge of water intrusion. He is going to ask owner about that and the keyless "code alarm" thing. Says it's just the dash outline of the car showing the doors are open, nothing else is on.

And yes,,,,, I know it is hard to do an "internet diagnostic".. Just looking for ideas.................................