TomRhere

Got the correct ball-joints thru AutoZone, Duralast p/n FA2067. $20.00 each + all the taxes and stuff. Not only do they fit both the control arm and knuckle, you get a new pinch bolt with them. Ordered 3 u-joints thru them, be here Thursday. Duralast p/n 2-0430DL. $20.00 each on these also.

Just ordered axles again, be here later in the week. Hopefully, the correct ball-joints are sitting at the parts store tonight.

More checkage done.... Have copy of order slip, I ordered the correct axles. Box received thru shipping company had correct part number on the axle boxes contained there in. Axles however, are definitely the wrong ones. So, now I "own" axles I can't use, and I need to get the correct ones coming. From internet searching, I HAVE the EMPI 805511 axles. What I received. 25 inner spline-27 outer spline I NEED the EMPI 805519 axles. What I thought I was getting. 23 inner spline-27 outer spline. Hell, if was just the inner spline count being wrong, I'd put the FTAWD 5-speed back in. But the outer end difference is really the killer to going anywhere with this at the moment. Can't get the hub back to where it needs to be to get the "correct" ball-joint to go in. Knuckle is roughly 1" further out than it should be, with axle bottomed out. Said the "H" with it and tried. It be a "no go".

Just to add insult to injury; New axle vs. old axle, Inboard end aligned, Outboard end difference, Not really getting into the, "Viva La differance" thing here. Axles are the same over all length, just way different on the outboard end. Not real sure where I'm heading with this now. Can't return axles as it's been over 4 months now since purchase, they won't even give me any kind of break in price on replacements. Really seems that I've hit the Mother Lode on mispacked parts.

Not so lucky with the ball-joints either it seems. They fit the control arm, no problem. Don't however, fit the hub. Tad bit to large in diameter. This crap sucks buttermilk. Big time............................ edit; Both the ball-joints and tie-rod ends were purchased thru O'Reilly's web site. Apparently, their catalog listing is incorrect. Tie-rods listed are for the EA82 body, not the XT6. No clue as to what the ball-joint listed is for.

Definitely shines her up some.

'Bout time you get back on here. Been a day or two...

I are not a "Happy Camper"! Strike 1; Inner wheel bearing seals purchased from info gathered on here, DO NOT FIT the hub. They are to big as to outer diameter aka bore size. They do fit the Imp axle stub however, so shaft size is correct. Strike 2; Ordered 2 more seals, will have them tomorrow. Hopefully, they fit. Spent money I really don't have to do so. Strike 3; Tie-rod ends purchased are not for the XT6, they be EA82 ones. Can't return them as it's been over 30 days since purchase. Luckily, the ball-joints purchased at the same time are the correct ones.

I never had the radio out of the dash, so can't comment on any of the wiring done by PO's. Think I would check the added wiring for the rear speakers, make sure it isn't pinched somewhere under the console. With it cutting out hitting bumps, or shifting, really sounds to me like a pinched wire shorting out. Probably wouldn't hurt to run new wires for them anyways. The BRAT was to be Del's, and she has to have a radio. That is the main reason I put new speakers in the doors, originals were shot. DS dash speaker was missing when I bought it, found the one you got, just never installed it.

Called it a day about 1/2 hour ago. All cleaned up and having a couple well deserved beers. Been out there wrenching since 9:AM. Long day...... Had a few "well you dummy, should've checked that before hand" issues. But I managed to get things corrected. One of which was to insure the wiring harness on the D/R would connect to the Wagon, nada. Had to swap that out with trans all bolted up nice and proper. Not fun.... No Neutral switch on it either, so thinking the ECU is going to have a fit over that. Got a plan for a remedy on that, just have to do some checking in the FSM 1st, see what the ECU looking for. Engine is back in, all hooked up, and started. Let it run 15 minutes or so, then shut it down. Lot of gurgling from the overflow, but she still needs more coolant. So, no problem there. Overflow is topped off, she'll draw in more as she cools. Not 100% on this, but thinking I found cause of noise I've been hearing that past few. Front u-joint is goned.... Bad. Shot. Done for.... Last thing I had to do yesterday to pull trans was the mounts, driveshaft, and shifter connection. Crawled under the Wagon to do so this morning, and everything from the trans output back is covered in lube. What a mess.... Got the driveshaft dropped, and I could make the u-joint flop around way to easy, could even get a clink out of it twisting things. I've been only running the front half of the shaft, as the other joints were bad. Had the center diff locked so I could drive it. Being the "old trans" was a FT4WD, shaft was still spinning under power. Put the front 1/2 of another shaft in, u-joint isn't the best, but it won't be spinning either. Really hoping that was the issue and not one of the rear wheel bearings. I had been smelling oil/lube smoke for the past few, just didn't make a connection to the noise/smell. Anyways, tomorrow is frontend work time. Oh, I still have the XT6 Pistol-grip shifter installed. Apparently, I don't have the correct shifter boot to install the D/R shifter. Don't need 4WD shifter if you can't do 4WD. Got a few ideas churning on a work around. We shall see how that goes. Time will tell.

Well durn... Just checked the weather for today. Looks like I'll be doing all the wrenching in the garage today. Was planning on doing the frontend stuff out in the driveway, just cause there's more room. No biggie...

Beautiful picture!!! I've always wanted a 1st Gen BRAT, to go with my 2nd Gen ones, just couldn't find one around these parts. Was able to drive one though, some 30 years ago. Boss man at that time had one.

Once again, the engine is sitting on it's milk crate, trans is ready to come out. Just have to finish undoing the shifter, pull the speedometer cable, and it's ready to hit the floor. Took a break from wrenching to get the yard mowed, otherwise I probably would have the D/R in the Wagon already. Figured I could wrench much later in the day than I could mow. And this yard definitely needed a trim.... Once I have the FT4WD trans out, I'll swap the mounts over to the D/R. Got some new seals for it, so those will be installed. Then get the trans back in. Then it's on to the frontend, new tie-rods, ball-joints, bearings/seals, axles. Going to hold off on doing the bearing in the PS rear swing arm in hopes that one shows up here shortly. Really hoping I can combine shifter parts and keep the XT6 Pistol-grip in there.

Apparently, the EA81 pumps do not have a 2nd port like the EA82 pumps do. I looked at 2 EA81 pumps yesterday, no 2nd port. Sorry to mislead you on that. So,,, pull the original sender, compare it's thread to what adapters the new one came with. If you don't have one that will work, take the original sender and the one for the new unit to a parts store, see if they can get an adapter for you. Can always do the cut, drill, tap of the old one like I mentioned before.

Like I said in one of the PM's, I'm pretty sure I put new speakers in the doors. You may want to pop the door cards and check the connections. Could also be that the wire(s) have broke where they go from body to door. That usually happens on the DS more than PS, but I did carry a passenger a lot, so that door was used often. Can't say if that's the original radio, but it is a factory stock EA81 unit. Quite possible that I have another unit here. I'll post back and let you know.

Do believe owner prior to me, wired in extra speakers. May want to look at that. Do know there was speaker wires, (I think), coming from under the rear of the console. Didn't really listen to radio much in it, was more into the sound of the exhaust note on it. Which seems to be to loud for where you're at. Hmmmmm. I always thought it could be louder.........

Ordered an received front wheel bearings and outer seals. All ready have the inner seals to fit the Imp axles. So now I can get the D/R 5-speed swapped in. While digging around in the garage, I located another rear bearing set. so,, if needed,, I have one I can swap into the rear. Still can't pinpoint the source of the noise. It has gotten a bit louder when doing 35 - 45 mph, and falls off as I get closer to 55 mph. Took a twisty road home last night. No real change in noise, other than speed related changes, going thru the various curves. Going to ask for Monday/Tuesday off. Take the 4 day weekend, figure things out, and get the trans swap done.

You need to have that spacer between the bearings.

Here you go...

Believe I have that info on this here computer. Will look for it after work.

Thanks for the input. Think I'll tell them to pass on it.

http://lansing.craigslist.org/ctd/3722068791.html Got a friend looking for a vehicle. Trying to get them into Subaru. Don't know much about the newer ones, so I has to ask. Good deal or no. Price seems high to me, but again, I no not of newer stuff. Need input.....

Now, this is just the way I would wire it up. Pull the radio surround out so you can get to the wiring harness for the radio. Body side of wiring harness color code is; Blue/Yellow wire is from Fuse #5, which is fed from the Accessory side of the Ignition switch, = gauge power feed. Black wire is ground, = gauge ground. Red and Red/Green wires are for the back light of the radio, and are controlled by the dash lighting brightness control. The back light in the gauge must have separate wires just for the light, or it won't work with the rest of the dash lights as far as brightness control goes. If,,, it doesn't have separate wires for the light, and the light shares ground with the rest of the gauge, tie the light wire to the Red wire of the wiring harness. That will turn light on/off with the headlight switch.

You will get codes 11 and 13 anytime you do a code reading. In test mode to read the codes, the engine is not running. ECU doesn't see any signal from the crank sensor, so it sets those codes. Code 34 is for the EGR vacuum solenoid/wiring. Not the EGR valve itself. As said, pull the outer Timing belt covers, check for broken belt, missing teeth. Especially on the drivers side belt, as that cam drives the distributor.

Depends on what fittings the new one came with as to whether it will thread in where the sending unit is. There is another port on the pump for a pressure switch for models with the oil light vs. gauge. You can use that port for the new unit and leave the sending unit where it is. As long as the sending unit doesn't leak, you'll be good to go.