TomRhere

More issues rear their head. Seems a wheel bearing is going. Not sure where, as the sound fills the interior. Definet "roar" after a few minutes of driving. Corners have no effect on it, speed will change it's pitch. Maybe,,, it's the center diff not liking being "locked in" for the past couple 1,000 miles. Ferk..............

Nice rescue... Like the look of the seat reupholstering, looks to be more comfortable than the stock ones are. Being in Ca., you won't be able to do a Weber swap and get it to pass emissions testing. You can however, do a SPFI swap, and get it to pass. Been a few Ca. members do so.

GeneralDisorder posted a while back on making his own by cutting the nut/threaded portion off of the sender, then drill/tap it to needed thread size. If you don't have needed drill and tap, you could try hardware or parts store and ask if they could do it for you.

Yep, no ball in the relief valve. Spring, possibly a shim washer, and the plunger. Well, the cap too. Spring sits inside of the plunger, shim, (if it has one), would be between spring end and inside plunger bottom. Takes a little coaxing to get the plunger out.

The "A" and "B" refer to where the piston is in it's stroke. "A" is After Top Dead Center, (ATDC). "B" is Before Top Dead Center, (BTDC). Ignition timing is always set to BTDC. Your carbed engine should be set to 8*BTDC as the manual says. But,, a bit more initial timing can be used. Set timing to 8*, see how it runs. Then bump it to 9*, 10* and so on. Listen for spark knock/detonation. If you hear any of that, back it down a bit.

Idle speed is still high, but not like it was. Doing between 1,200 and 2,000 now and will drop down to 900 at times. Was doing 2,500 + before. Thinking I can live with it for the moment. I'll get the good book out and do some checks of things with the DMM, see what that tells me, as I'm thinking a wiring issue more than component issue. Then again...... Do know or believe, that I've eliminated any vac leaks now. Sprayed carb cleaner around at various areas Saturday, that's how I found the throttle body to manifold nuts were loose. Only spot that made a difference in idle during the spray down. Wagon sure feels different now without the powersteering pump doing it's thing. Did drive it for a bit without powersteering when I first put it on the road. Felt much easier then the BRATs when turning corners and such. But I'd been driving one BRAT or another for the past 10 years, so I was kind of used to manual steering.

Had the same issue on the '85 BRAT. Had me scratching my head for a bit before I found the burnt connection.

If you still have your old axles, Pop the outer boot off, remove the clip inside the housing, pull the axle out. Put the outer end of axle into the hub, reassemble everything, put it in 4WD and go down the road. Done that quite a few times....

No need to remove intake to plug vacuum ports.. You only need to remove it to take off the un-used steel vacuum lines, and that's just to clean up the look of it. Not needed... Brake booster vac line is the large port on the right hand end of intake. Heater control vac line goes to any port on the left hand side of intake. Plug all the remaining ports on the intake. Disty vac goes to the right hand port on the front of the Weber. EGR vac goes to the left hand port on the Weber. It may have a plug in it, it screws out. Don't recall how I initially ran the return spring on mine. Someone on here drilled a hole in one of the clips for the air filter and hooked the spring in there.

Pulled the IAC out and soaked it some fuel system cleaner, then sprayed it down with some carb cleaner to finalize the cleaning. Good thing I have to wear glasses.... 2nd spray of carb cleaner shot right back at the lenses... Been there, done that,, before I needed the glasses. Not ever wanting that again..... Not fun at all. Had to pull the PowerSteering pump to get IAC out, pump is currently residing next to the PS strut tower. Looking at installing the XT6 PS pump now. Tired of the belt squeal, new/old belt, mongo belt tension, what have you. It squealed, with any movement of the steering wheel if you weren't doing at least 25 MPH. Annoying to say the least.............. Found out that neither the "pour it in the tank" type fuel system cleaner, or a 50/50 mix of water/antifreeze will go thru your standard coffee filter paper. 1st time I tried one of them actually, temporarily out of paper towels, my normal filter media. Just wanted to catch any debris out of the fluids before I put them into proper use. Found that the front 2 nuts holding the throttle body to the intake were loose. Tightened them down, checked the back 2 also. I'll be doing some around town driving tomorrow, we'll see if I've fixed the "high idle" issue. Seems to be good just running in the driveway now.

I did one front caliper for one of the BRATs. Vowed to never do another one....... Been buying loaded calipers ever since then. A decent bench vice would probably made the job easier, but doing the E-brake side was a real pain.

Well, it's not the throttle cable causing the high idle. Had the issue on drive to/from work. Get back here and popped the hood with engine running. Throttle is sitting on the stop screw, but engine is idling at 2700+. So,, time to do some reading on possible causes. Thinking TPS and/or IAC mostly.

Apparently, I got water in the accelerator cable when I gave the engine a bath last Saturday. Pedal was froze this morning... Got it freed,, but the drive to work was interesting to say the least. Still wanting to hang. Got some lube in there after pulling the cable off the TB and out of the mount bracket. We shall see how the morning goes. My morning was better than Rich's was... Smoked a deer with his truck. Whole front is goned. Deer be dead. Punted it a good 50-60 feet.

Glad the timing info helped. Tuning the carb is a "per vehicle/area" thing. Ran the same Weber on 3 different engines, each one wanted it set differently. Good settings should get you in the 28 MPG area at least.

Had some drive belt squeal yesterday, so I put a bit more tension on it. Accelerator wanted to hang some on the trip home from work. Put a bit more slack in it at the adjuster when I got home. Thinking this morning, that I may squirt some lube in the cable housing during lunch break today. The new rear struts greatly improved the ride quality. Still thinking I need new springs back there though. Springs had about 1/2" free-play when I installed them on the struts. Don't believe that is a good thing.

It had CC, dealer installed option I believe, as it was all under the dash. Didn't work, couldn't find info on it. Pulled it all out when I swapped new accelerator cable in. That is what that plugged hose is for, laying in the drivers foot well area. Like I told T.. I may still have everything here, just need to stumble across it. Pretty sure I've stuffed it up on one of the shelving units, buried under many other items. Have to have the time to un-load the shelves and resort everything, get it in boxes labeled as to what it fits. I have way to much stuff here. Not as much as some Members, but still.......................... You guys only seen some of the surface stuff when you were down here. Got 6 engines, 4 trans in the garage, plus rear diffs and such. Better 1/2 of a BRAT and XT6 up in the rafters. Parts stuffed into/under the '82 BRAT. Just found some items today, I had been searching for since early Spring last year, buried out in the shed.

She is definitely clean. Some small areas to get to soon, but overall, she the best one can find in this area. Pretty damned good looking for a Lady her age.

Hmmm. Do believe I detect a typo there. Do believe that,,, ""I"",,,, "did" the wheels. You however, can "dig" the wheels all you want. It's all good.........

I do believe the rust repair is right up there on his "to-do" list.

Mileage at EA81 swap, with the last 10 miles shown test driving the Wagon around town

A few more pics. EA81 in and running.. Couple side shots taken about 2 hours apart today. Before flushing the coolant system, and afterwards. All new coolant in there now.

Your timing mark on the flywheel when running an EA82 flywheel on an EA81 engine needs to move 6* more advanced. IE; instead of using the 8* mark you need to use the 14* mark. I've ran a few EA81's with the EA82 flywheel, and they've all been that way. Just checked that again while putting the EA81back into my Wagon. It has the XT6 flywheel, but it's the same markings as the EA82's. Pull #1 plug, turn engine over by hand until you feel compression. Look into the plug hole and watch the piston, you can see when it gets to the top of it's stroke. Check the timing mark, should be at 6* BTDC instead of 0*. Turn engine to the 14* mark on the flywheel. Now, set your disty so rotor is pointing at #1 wire tower on the cap. It should start and run good at that setting. Webered EA8x engines do like a bit more advance than the stock carbs do. I've ran mine at 10*-12* (16*-18* with EA82 flywheel) with no spark knock.

Okay, so I be a dummy. Exhaust leak was due to the flange not sealing to the head due to the remnants of a broken stud, one that used to hold the ASV adapter on. I had stacked 2 gaskets on there before, just forgot to do so this time. Got the die-grinder out and removed protruding/offending bolt remnant. All quiet now. Adjusted the clutch, feels much better now. Drove over to the car wash and gave her a bath again. Had enough coinage to give the engine bay a spray down also. Still needs more cleaning under there, but it looks so much better now. Got to check the oil pressure sender out today. Seems it, or the wire to it at least, didn't like the spray. Wire is hanging, screw head is goned. I have other senders here, so probably just swap it out. One thing I don't understand is the difference in exhaust note between the EA82 and the EA81. The EA81 is much quieter than the EA82 was. Both are running the SPFI system, same exhaust system. So why the difference?? IS it because of the difference in compression ratio? The EA82 had a mellow growl to it while accelerating, also had a light raspy sound when I let off the gas during shifts. The EA81 does neither of those.

Good to hear/see the work being done. Got to admit that she looks better with current rims than with the Loyale hubcaps. Can say that she looked great with a set of H style rims on her. Had a set on there until the tires wore out. Just swapped to the next set of good tires on rims. Kinda figured the PS fender wouldn't be to big of an issue to straighten. I've un-bent a few fenders over the years, many in worse condition. That was on the "to-do list", just never got to it.

Good to hear the seats are back in it. Just never got around to doing what was needed to do so. Did you have any problems getting the seatbelt bolts out? I had been soaking them down with rust penetrant every now and then. Never rode in the back of the '82, but Christopher has, many times. Couple of his friends did also. All say it was "FUN" to do so.