TomRhere

Take it easy and let the bones heal 1st, then you can do the strip down of the car. Trust me, you don't want to do anything that causes further damage, BTDT.. Ain't fun. Probaly be a bit before things are all settled with it anyways, so don't start tearing into it just yet. Take the time to heal.

Got it up on Harve's lift tonight to look at the brake lines. Found wetness on the rear PS where steel line meets rubber hose at caliper. Got about 3 flats of the fitting turn on it tighter. Did not see any wetness there when I had that sides trailing arm out to do the bearings, and I had taken the line apart at the front hose/line connection then, not this one. So,, it seems that it has been a "slow leaker" all along since I ran all new lines. Plus,,, I did not have the brakes properly bled before doing the bearing swap. It had been leaking air out, not fluid,, causing the earlier "low brake fluid light". Then after bleeding brakes at the end of the bearing swap, it started to leak fluid, causing this last "lbfl". Also looked underneath the engine while it was on the lift. I need a new waterpump.......... Be leaking at the drip hole. So, just got done ordering in a bunch of parts from various suppliers. Rear struts/shocks and mounts, ball-joints outer tie-rod ends, waterpump and gasket, camshaft seals, oil pump seals just cause. Got another list here to order in from a Subaru Dealer and that should pretty much kill off any money I have or had I should say. That list includes, intake and exhaust gaskets (just to have around) t-stats, camcase o-rings ( afew of them), PCV valves, and anything else I should happen to think of at the time. Once I have all of the confirmed shipping/arrivail dates, I'm putting in for some vacation off work. 'Tain't telling nary a soul round these parts 'bout it niether. Going to spend the time on my car, not doing what they want me to do for them.......... Unlike the last time I had vacation to do wrenching and did everything but...

Manual trans-4WD will have one. Not sure if the cables ends where they attache to the clutch fork are the same between EA81 and EA82 types.

Stop Lamp light should not be "ON" if both of the brake lights are working. It's there to let you know that one side 'isn't working". Has nothing to do with tail lights or turnsignal lights. Your mention of corrosion is most likely the issue. I would look at all of the connections for the rear wiring, checking for corrosion, broken wires, or bad ground point.

Might look into going with rear 4-lug disc parts, and either re-drill for 5-lug or do a 4 - 5 lug adapter. Just a thought there. For the rusted unibody area. I've opened the floor area over the section that was bad, and fit a length of tubing in to close the gap. Go longer than the rusted area, and plug weld it a few places along the sides.

Be wary on buying a replacement radiator for the XT6. The ones listed are not for the 6 cylinder, but are for the 4 cylinder on many sites. Wrong size fittings for hose attachment is the difference.

Ouch!!!!! From the look of the 2nd pic she's straight behind the strut tower, so damage is more to the front framerails and radiator support. Can be replaced as Scott said.

Sold it..... Sold the '85 BRAT GL to tdodge41 today. Kinda hate to see her go, gut she's going to a good home. I'm happy with price, he's happy with BRAT and associated parts he got. All is good.

Seats and carpet can be pulled for good cleaning to get rid of the mildew smell. Different engine can be swapped in if that one is shot. Looks to good to just scrap it. My Son, Christopher would love to get hold of one like it.

I haven't tried them yet, but anoither Member on here has. Carquest P/N 1-0430 for the EA82 u-joint.

Agreed.... Post up needs, lot's of us have stuff to get rid of.

Here's hoping the MOT Inspection goes your way. If they could see all the work you've put into this Wagon, they would/should be very impressed.

'82 should have the internal regulator. I have had issue with the positive feed wire to the fusable link box on a few of the BRATs I've owned. Mostly it was corrosion, but did have loose fitting connection at the box also. As others have said, check all of the connections for the alt, battery cables, engine and body grounds.

No luck in using Harve's lift today. He has a dead FORD sitting on it. Figures, I have a dead FORD hogging up my garage also. Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

To test one's mental state while working on solving electrical issues where one needs the key "ON" and the door open. Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa...........

Buy a length of pre-made line, then you won't have to flare the ends. Get under there with a tape measurer and see what lentgh you'll need. Won't find one the exact length, so go next one longer. Remove bad line, bend new line to match as best you can. I've never been able to exactly match the factory bends on any lines I've replaced. A tubing bender can be bought for a small amount, don't need a real fancy one. You will lose fluid while the line is out, just keep an eye on the level. One can fashion a plug for the end to slow the drip down. Hook new line up to the forward fitting, let fluid flow into new line, hook the free end to where it needs to be. Doing that will save some bleeding time. Bleed brakes.

Welcome to the Board. Lots of info and good people on here. And yes, Subarus are very addictive.................

Brake fluid level was low. Topped it off, and proceeded to inspect all of the lines, hoses, calipers. Nothing showing signs of leaking brake fluid. So,,, it would seem that I have a leaky master cylinder, and fluid is being pulled into the booster. Then again, that really doesn't seem right either. No sign of fluid beneath where the m/c bolts to booster. And if the front seal on the booster is bad, I should lose the stored vacuum there, which is not the case either. Going to see if a co-worker has his lift open tomorrow. Get it up in the air more, give it a better look over than what I can do just crawling around on my back.

Been a while since I fished the one on the '88 Wagon thru, so I'm not 100% on this... I fed the cable thru the firewall some 6 inches. Got under the dash and using a pair of long needlenose pliers, guided the cable onto the speedometer connection. Whole lot easier to get under the dash if you take thedriver's seat out. Atleast for me it is.

I'll hit that milestone sometime this coming Thursday, or so I figure anyways.

Had to open my mouth about the hoses needing replacement...... Popped one coming home from work Thursday... Roadside fix done and got her in the driveway. Managed to get the radiator hoses ordered Thursday night, and they were at the parts store Friday. All installed along with new heater hoses of the generic length of hose there. Headed out to the grocery store for supper fixings, and the "Brake Fluid" light comes on. Auuugh!!!!!! Brakes seem to be working as they should. More investigation to be done today.

Sounds like more of a wiring harness issue than the solenoid itself.

Atleast it was a somewhat easy fix..

Back when I 1st joined this site, I had an '82 BRAT that a PO had shoehorned an EA82 into. I was unhappy with the Hitachi and went Weber. Had concerns about the hood closing, but was insured that it would be just fine by McBrat/Vapor Trail. It's close, but hood will clear it just fine with the taller filter. The raised portion of the hood allows for it to fit. Good engine mounts are the ticket... Ran same carb/manifold on another BRAT with EA81 engine, but opted to do a thermal spacer. That, required the shorter filter.

You are the one I was thinking of in my reply, just really couldn't say for sure. Again, Kudo's on the artical.