TomRhere

Thinking he's one of the Ben's on here, but there be a few of them. Kudo's to the author and a Hi-5 to Jeszek........................

Suspension will swap over with no issues. XT6 engine crossmember can be re-drilled to fit the EA82 chassis, but only if you do run the ER27 engine, as the holes for the engine mounts won't work with an EA82 Those holes are to far forward.. Can't say about an EJ's fitment. ER27 can be dropped in, but radiator is the BIG issue there. I'm running everything from an XT6 in my '88 Wagon, minus the motor and crossmember. Oh, and the dash... Not 100% on it, but the curve of the XT6 dash is different than the EA82 bodied vehicles. Serious trimming may be involved there. I have 2 ER27 engines sitting in my garage and so want to stuff one in one of the vehicles here.........

Only thing I can say is that the EA82 tanks are wider side-to-side, and longer front-to-rear than EA81 tanks. Thinking the width of an EA82 tank would be the biggest issue. Front/rear size can be accomodated by moving crossmembers. Moving framerails would be another story. My EA82 '88 Wagon says it has a 15.9 gallon tank. I have yet to run it dry, and the most I've put in is 13.9xx gallons.

What that refers to is the shape of the "O"ring, and that it has turned into a "C"ring basically and ressembles Pac-man's shape. I worked some 25+ years in the Injection Molding field, lots of O-rings on one of those machines. I've seen many o-rings blow in that manner. And for the most part, yes,, they get blown in, not sucked in. On the intake/supply side of the pump, yes,, they do get sucked in. But on the pressure side of the system, they get blown in from system pressure. The o-rings sit in a cavity and do not have an internal support. O-ring seal is made by the squish of the mating surfaces and relies on system pressure to help make the seal from the fluid putting pressure on it in a radial pattern outwards. Heat is one major enemy of o-rings, time is another. Combine the two and problems will arise. As the o-rings age they lose thier flexibility comprimizing the seal. When that happens, system pressure can migrate to the outter side of the o-ring. With no internal support of the o-ring, fluid pressure will push inwards on the oring, causing it to fail. Doesn't matter if system pressure is 10 PSI or 2,500 PSI or if it's oil, air, water. The reinforced o-ring basically keeps the o-ring from collapsing in on itself if/when the seal is comprimized. If there was a U-shaped channel vs the flat recess for the o-ring to sit in, seal would be mantained better/longer. Just my .02...

Totally agreed to............................

AWESOME !

Hmmm. Have to check the crank sprockets. I haven't messed with them myself. Engine is out of the '92 Wagon, PO got it from his Brotther down Indianapolis way. Only work the PO said he did was fix the exhaust system. I've swapped T-belts, new bearings in tensioners and idler, swapped oil and water pumps. I somewhat recall a thread on here years ago discussing proper placement of the crank sprockets. One sits offset to the other, but I don't recall which one. There's like a 1/2 belt tooth differance between the two, but that's all I remembers.

Don't know FI systems that well, learning them. Old carb guy here.... Question; Can a backfire thru the intake cause damage to any of the FI components like MAF, IAC, what have you? Pretty good knowledge here on what it could do with a carb system, no clue on FI though. Well, other than popping a vac line off.

Brings to mind a song from back in the day. "Indiana wants me, Lord I can't go back there" Didn't notice that coolant drip myself this weekend, but I wasn't under the front any. Pics were taken just from holding the camera under there. Have noticed the level in the overflow tank is down some again. I have oilpan and camcover gaskets. Got to get cam seals and such. Thinking I may go ahead and get the reinforced o-rings and do a cam carrier out reseal. Runs to damned strong to mess with head gaskets at the moment. Might as well get o-ring/gasket for the waterpump and all new hoses too. Hoses have been around for a bit. And what say ye about how the t-belts are riding on the sprockets?

You know, I wondered about that. But they are riding right where the belts that were on it rode. Hmmm, gotta look into this some more me thinks.

quote milesfox Tom knows what i am talkng about being experienced in both realms. end quote. Yeps, I be your runofthemillold-timer redneck. Done quite a bit of "redneck errornering umm er engineering" in my days. Not to much into that whole "here, hold my beer and watch this" stuff though. I'll hang onto my beer and watch the other guy/gal do the antics.

Thanks. If anyone knows about running without the covers, I know you do. When you dropping by again? Been way to long........................

If the "POP" was a backfire thru the intake, it could have dislodged a vac hose, thus the crappy idle/accel. Check the vac lines over. Just saying....

I'll be looking forward to your findings. My Wagon has simular issue with the PS. Tire at times seems to lean out at the top more than others, or atleast it looks that way to me. More work to be done before an actuall alignment is done.

On the heat issue, there's a few probabilities. Clogged heater core; with heat and fan both on hi, feel the heater hoses under the hood. Should not be a great temp differance, one cooler to the touch yes, but not a great amount cooler. Could swap hoses around to backflush core. May help. T-stat; yep, like you said, someone could have pulled it, or it's stuck open. Heater bypass valve; it could be bad, not opening to allow coolant thru the core. control cable off/disconnected. If it is the core, plan on a long day to swap it out. Dash needs pulled to do it correctly. There is/was a write-up to replace it without pulling dash. In the "Old USRM" if I remembers right. Did that on the Black '82 BRAT.

Welcome to the Board.... Lot's of good info on here, just spent a lazy day reading thru the posts, and you'll gain alot of info. James has been down here to my place a couple times, and planning another trip soon. You're welcome to join him if you want to. Well, if it's ok with him that is... That link to the '81 Wagon, nice Wagon. To bad it's in the wrong Hillsdale...........

As of yesterday, '88 GL Wagon. On the body only. Engine, trans, rear diff, suspension all from different vehicles.

It can snow in the desert, just not real often. I hate having to rush repairs, done it to many times.

Thinking it definetly needs a good washdown under the hood. Am I looking at any issues doing that with T-Belts open?

more pics YUCKY!!!!!

All I basically did Thursday and Friday was run errands. But I did manage to do some wrenching yesterday. Wasn't coming off under the Wagon, nut was rounded. This is the DS radius rod assembly. After about 2 hours. Close up. New bushings vs old ones. Passenger side was much easier to do. Was wanting to do a paint job on these 1st, but said the hell with it. Did spray some paint though.

Been a lot of links to FaceBook pics/vids lately. Not every body is on FaceBook. . Links to pics there don't work for us, period.....

http://frost-technologies.com/site/pictures/95%20Impreza/IMAG0025.jpg Damned if that ain't a shot right out of the SUBARU commercial. Got your seatbelt on? Mirrors adjusted? edit; Okay, pic didn't show in this post, but link works. Still learning the new layout.

Most likely is a wheel bearing. Had noise from back of Wagon that I couldn't figure out. Everything looked/felt good on inspection. Replaced both bearing sets and noise is goned...

Gave her a much needed bath. All of the Black trim was looking more like Pale Gray. Damned road salt..... Just ran it thru the No-Touch auto wash.