TomRhere

Fairly sure someone on here did a DIY shifter bushing fix for the EA82 5-speed trans using hardware store parts. Didn't see it in the USRM, but it should've been there. Was pretty good fix. Been roughly 1-1/2 to 2 years, I think

Contact Jerry, bratsrus1, he sells a kit to install the D/R 5-speed in an EA81 body. You'll need to see what all he needs you to send him, been a bit since I talked to him and don't recall everything.

Get a Haynes manual for it. Recently went thru that on the Wife's HHR. Hardest part was getting the corrosion to let go of the bearing housing, but you shouldn't have that issue.

https://www.google.com/search?q=trailer+wiring&hl=en&tbo=u&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ei=YyL_UPWHCuPS2AWT5ICgDA&sqi=2&ved=0CEUQsAQ&biw=1140&bih=562 Link to various trailer- tow vehicle wiring diagrams. To use the electric brakes on that trailer, you will need to install a control unit in the tow vehicle. Unit is plumbed into the tow vehicles Primary brake system, and applies a varied voltage to the trailer brakes. A bias can be set between the tow vehicle and the trailer to aide in braking. Usually thru a sliding switch. Biggest thing with towing a trailer of any size is, Can you control the trailer, or is it controlling you? I've moved a 32' dual axle camper around the yard here with my '82 BRAT. Don't think I'd ever attempt to go down the road with it back there....

I'm with Miles on just swapping the columns out. You may also want to change the key locks on the front doors. Column swap can be done by oneself, but it does help to have an assistant when putting one back in. Mainly for getting the column shaft aligned correctly with the joint on the steering rack.

Resistors on both clocks are toasted enough I can't see/read the color bands on them. Don't think a resolder is going to help there. Was hoping it was just a resolder of the power leads to get one to work. Not today.... If anyone knows Watt and Ohm of that resistor I would be gratefull. It's located just below right corner of the display. By size, I would say it's atleast a 1/4 Watt, maybe 1/2 Watt.

Forgot to look at tires/wheels on Saturday while I had it in the garage. I claim "old-timers" on that. Happy to report the coolant loss issue is a thing of the past. Level in the overflow hasn't moved at all. Tried fixing the dash clock, found burnt resistor. One out of the '92 parts Wagon had same burnt resistor. Anyone have a good dash clock they are willing to sell? Put a "used but better condition" pad on the clutch pedal. Boy, was that an absolute battle. Wound up putting newish pad in some hot water for a few to soften it some, but still. Major arguage getting it on the metal pad of the pedal.

Mmmmm! Powder coating, nice... Having a garage to work in is nice. Having heat in that garage is even better. Especially with the wind and low temps we had here yesterday. Keep up the good work!!

Attempted to repair the clock in the '88 Wagon. No joy, burnt resistor. Pulled clock from the '92 Wagon's dash, same resistor was burnt. Bummer. When I dropped the glovebox down on the '88 to get to the connector for the clock, I found a receipt for payment of repairs. It was laying on top of the A/C housing. No mention of work done, but total was $549.20, paid to Luttrell's Auto Center in Walla Walla, Wa., paid on 12/14/06. Thought that was pretty cool.

And to answer your "Is it worth it" question on swapping in the EA82 engine. I wouldn't do it, unless the EA81 needed some serious work and needed to come out, and I still needed to drive the vehicle. Only then would I drop an EA82 in. And only for as long as repairs to the EA81 took. When I bought my '82 BRAT, an owner previous to the one I bought from, dropped an EA82 into it. It fits, yes.. But it is way tight on the sides, and waterpump mounted fan is something like 3/8"-1/2" away from radiator. It really was a pain to work on. That was the engine I bought the Weber and adapter for. Intake and Weber has been installed on 3 other EA81 engines since then.

You need an adapter to put a Weber on regardless of intake used. I already had the Weber and adapter for the EA82 intake, which is why I set about swapping it over to the EA81 engine. The EA82 intake has a larger opening under the carb then the EA81 intake does. Going to a larger carb with the Weber, it just made sense to go with larger opening in the intake. Larger opening under carb helps with throttle response mainly, there may be a slight overall power increase between the two manifolds. One would have to do a dyno run before/after to actually say for sure. Actually, 3 dyno runs would be needed; 1st run done with stock setup, 2nd run with Weber on EA81 intake, 3rd run with Weber on EA82 intake.

Nippondenso coil; primary = 1.13-1.35, secondary = 10,795-14,605 Hitachi coil; primary = 1.04-1.27, secondary = 7,360-11,040 according to the FSM. Check the coil primary windings with the meter leads on the + and - terminals. Secondary windings are from the + to the center terminals. Pull the disty cap and check for any side-to-side movement of the shaft. Worn bushings can cause run rough, and a jumpy tach is one indicator of that. Bad pick-up or faulty wiring for it could be issue. I had one Hitachi disty that the magnet under the "C" shaped piece shattered, causing it to run rough, die and not restart. Magnet part numbers 491988711 for '84+, 491987401 for '83-.

Maybe my method was wrong, but here's what I did to come up with that. Loosened flywheel bolts on the EA81, then aligned the 0* TDC on #1 cylinder mark to pointer. Removed bolts and flywheel from engine. Layed the EA81 flywheel on bench, clutch side up. Layed EA82 flywheel ontop of it, clutch side up. Aligned the bolt holes, bolted them together. Took squares, straight egdes and such to transfer timing marks from EA81 to EA82. Marks moved 6* futher BTDC on the EA82 flywheel. Ran EA82 flywheel on EA81 engine converted to SPFI. Wasn't happy with ignition timing set at anything other than 26* BTDC on EA82 flywheel. So that led me to believe what method I used was right. I used the EA82 flywheel as I was also running the D/R 5-speed. Used same method when I put an EA81 engine into the '88 Wagon using XT6 flywheel and FTAWD 5-speed.

The switch itself may still be good. It may very well be that the tumbler/housing is way worn allowing the key to be turned to far. If you took the switch off of the column and turned it with a screwdriver, you can turn it past the contact points for the starter. Thus the reason for the above statement. Did that with one of my BRATs after the Wife got the wrong key jammed in there. Pulled the switch, started it with screwdriver until I had time to swap things out. I kept turning it to far until I made note of where it needed to be to start it and marked the switch with a Sharpie for a referance point.

Welcome. Nice clean Wagon to have as a 1st vehicle.

Using the EA82 flywheel on an EA81 engine, you move the timing marks 6*. 0* TDC on the EA81 engine will now read as 6* BTDC on the EA82 flywheel.

Seems I have either a bent rim, or a bad tire. Don't really think it's a bent rim though, as I always though aluminum rims would break if one slammed them hard enough to bend it like a steel rim. Don't know.... Anyways, I've had a slight vibration in the steering wheel for the past few months, accompanied by the shifter shaking some. Got really bad if I went over 58 MPH. Acceleration made it worse, deceleration lessened it. So I was thinking bad axle joint. Wasn't real concerned as I planned to swap in the D/R and swap axles. Rotated tires front/rear over the last weekend. Vibration is gone now.... Had it up to 75 MPH last night on trip home from work. No vibration at all in steeringwheel or shifter. I'm liking that, but it do have me wondering now..... Something else for me to look into this weekend. :-\

Thanks for the link, I enjoyed it. Nice work on that Minor.

I'm not sure how the ER27's mounts will line up with an EA82 crossmember. Thinking they'd be to far forward where the stud is. Don't know if the EA82 mounts will fit the ER27, or if they'd last long if they do fit There's 2 dimples in the ER27's crossmember. Drill thru those and you have the proper holes for mounting it in an EA82 body. Rear holes are the same location on both. After drilling the 2 holes, I mounted the entire XT6 front suspension under the Wagon. Everything bolted in as it should with the added holes. Strut-rod brackets bolted right in as they should. That tells me that the knuckles would be where they should be. I have the XT6 front swaybar mounted to the EA82 crossmember. Haven't noticed any rubbing, yet. I had to redo the previous work done to the strut-top mounting area, but you shouldn't have any issue there. I used a spare EA82 strut-top for proper pattern of bolt holes, XT6 strut-tops bolted right in. I used the XT6 coupler to connect the Wagon's column to the XT6 rack. Which is currently juiced by the EA82 PS pump running ATF for fluid. XT6 rack fits the EA82 crossmember with no issues. But you need to use the EA82 PS lines that run across the crossmember. Haven't actually measured anything, but I'm thinking the XT6 ones would be way close to the oilpan if used on an EA82 crossmember. But that's running them with the EA82 engine also. I had to open the bolt holes in the EA82 crossmember for the lower control arms so the bolt for the XT6 LCA's would fit. I moved the hole down slightly also. The top edge of the new hole is still the top edge of the old hole. Wasn't easy to do laying under the Wagon either....

Do believe I have the coolant leak fixed. Started it up when the clean up buzzer sounded at work yesterday, and let it run for the 5 minutes until the go home buzzer. No sign of any coolant drip under it. YAY!!!! On the other hand though. CRC Silicone spray was not the best thing to use to treat the door seals against freezing to the body of the car. On/off rain all day Sunday, over night temp dipped down to 22*. All 4 doors were froze shut. Pulled the weatherseals on all of them opening them Monday morning. Aaaaaaa........... I'll get it in the garage this weekend, get the heater going. Scrub all the seals and door openings down, refit seals again. Go back to my old standby for treating the seals. Cooking spray.....

That code is for the solenoid that operates the EGR valve, not the valve itself. Most likely, the solenoid is dead. There is a chance of the wiring to it being faulty though. The solenoid is in front of the manifold near the T-stat housing, has a White connector. Other solenoid located near it is for the vapor canister vent, Black connector. You can connect a 33 Ohm resistor across the wires in the connectors. Doing so basically fools the ECU that the solenoid(s) are good. That is if the wiring to them is good. New solenoid is exspensive. Both of them are identical except for the wiring connector. If you could find a good one at a salvage yard, you can rewire it to the correct connector.

Ahhhh. Would Love to get me hands on an old Morris Minor...... Back in circa 1968, fellow student had one. Loved that vehicle............ :headbang:

Good to read that it's running now... May have just been dust build-up in the disty, affecting the optics. It's nice when they sort of fix themselves, but it sure would be good to know what the issue really was. I like mystery, in books and movies. Not in my vehicles...