TomRhere

The clutch cable would be worn inside the sheath, you won't really be able to see that. I have had issues working on other vehicles, and using a mix of clutch components. Throw-out bearing could be hanging on the trans sleeve, clutch disc could be hanging on the splines of the input shaft.

Don't forget to swap in the 3.9 rear diff inplace of the 3.7 under there now....

Actually some print-outs of a few things would sufice. I've managed to figure other things out using the XT6 files, but that isnt the best way. What I "really need" is the wiring diagrams for the following; Cruise Control system, Wiper system, Door lock system, Power window system. You can email those to me at tomrhere at yahoo dot com. All of the links to FSM files I have found on here are for engine wiring and SPFI wiring. Thanks, Tom R.

Worn or misrouted clutch cable could be issue also. Clutch cable should run under the steering column and heater hoses once it passes into the engine compartment.

Axles arrived Friday. Shop surprized all of us on Friday also. They posted up on the board that we get 2 4-day weekends for Christmas and New Years. Shocking to say the least. So,, it looks like I shall be doing more wrenching than planned. I see no reason to not put the Wagon in the garage from the 22nd thru the 1st. I can get a lot of things done during that time frame. Just have to use Christopher's LaSabre for the 3 days of work that week. The '85 BRAT will need to be moved out of the garage, plus some re-arranging of things. But I can get the engine out and resealed. Drop the FTAWD trans out. Get the D/R 5-speed trans resealed, (seals ordered 12-9), and ready to go in. Will be ordering front wheel bearings and seals. Get the dash swapped to the '92's Brown one. Maybe, if I can scrape up the funds, get the u-joints for the driveshaft.

www.rivetsinstock.com/rivet-nuts-threaded-inserts/ribbed-l-series.html You'll want to order some of these. I've used them for various jobs, and they do work well. Need to get some myself to install the Factory roof rack off the '92 onto my '88. Some type of sealant would be good to apply around all of the inserts, I'm not quite set on what to use yet. Many good types of sealants are out there. Still digging around on that myself.

I'd have to pull the hood down from the rafters of the garage to take another look at it, maybe get some pics. It's been stuffed up there for some 10 years now. But I deemed it worthy of hanging on to, so it's in good/repairable condition atleast. You need to have atleast 10 posts on here before you can do PM's, (Private Messages), but you can email me at tomrhere at yahoo dot com. Put '87 BRAT in the subject line. I'd be happy to have you stop over some weekend. Had a few Members on here over.

Been something like 4 years now, but I have been in Mt. Morris, Pa.. Road trip for the Company I work for. Yep, what he said. '82 was last year for DS antenna. Everything from the dash forward is direct swap outside of the headlight setup. But even those can be swapped around with some work.. Gas tank, (if needed), needs to be from another 4WD donor though, unless you lift it. No clearence on the FWD tanks for the rear diff. Rear suspension parts from another 4WD are direct fit also. When buying parts from any supplier/parts store, go with the '84 model year. The EA82 vehicles came out in '85, can get the wrong part(s) sometimes if you go with the year of yours. I've owned 5 BRATs since I joined here, parted 2 out, sold/traded one. Still have an '85 and an '82. Have some parts, just not alot. I have an extra hood, should have trim pieces, no tailgate trim though. Odds and ends on other parts. Yeah, Sturgis is 1.5 - 2 hours down US-12 from here. Been over that way, just not, "there".

Welcome to the Board, from another Michigan Member. I may have the missing trim pieces, have to dig around out in the garage. What other pieces you need? Where is that truck stop? It looks familiar, then again not.

Played with the mode selector on the trip to/from work yesterday. Thinking I've found the issue with cold air out of the defroster. Bad vacuum motor, just not sure which one yet. So, back to the '92's heater box for more studying. I did have heated air out of the defroster vent with mode set on bi-level, and a small amount with it on heat. Works great on defrost. But changing it back to heat from defrost, I got cold air out of the defroster vents again. Something isn't always moving like it should. Do know that there is nothing wrong with the heater core in it. Great "drive you out of the car" heat out of it. Ordered the proper axles to put the D/R 5-speed trans in. Got a DOJ going bad on me. Get a vibration now if I get to happy with the gas pedal in 3rd, especially pulling a hill. Shifter and steeringwheel shake in unison with the vibration. Should be here Friday.

Most excellant!!!

If someone soldered plain wire inplace of the resistor wires, it won't work as meant to. All that would do is give you 4 settings for High speed on the blower motor.

Finally broke down and bought new drive belts. Took Jeszek's info for the belt sizes. Gates 7375 for the inner, 7440 for the outer. Inner belt needed to be worked around each pulley, and into it's proper running spot, as it's a tad tight. Outer belt went right on. Dug out the heater assembly from the '92 Wagon, and looked it over, trying to get a good understanding of what does what and when. Went over to the '88 and fired it up, played with the heater controls, trying to see if things were moving as they should. Bi-focals don't work to well for that..................... While playing around with the heater, I noticed the light on the ECU flashing. HUH?? Both the Green and White code read connectors are unplugged...... Got a 34 and 51. EGR circuit and neutral switch circuit. Neither of these codes have shown when trying to read codes with connectors plugged together. So now I know why the CEL is always "ON"...... Neutral switch is because it's currently un-plugged, easy fix. EGR circuit will need looked into. May have spare solenoid, but I can get a resistor if needed.

Wasn't really down-talking the wheel covers, I have the same ones on my '85 BRAT, and I like the look of them on it.

The mode selector is where you switch between defrost, heat, vent, AC. You're talking about the resistor pack for the fan speeds. If the coils on it are in good shape, then the problem lies in the fan speed switch, or the wiring between the coils and the switch. Most likely the switch is worn out for the lower speed settings.

Nice rims always look better than wheel covers.. I like the new look.....

Swapping out the heater controls didn't fix one issue I was hoping it would. If I set it to anything but defrost, I get cold air out of the defroster vents. Has to do with a door/flap not shutting. Only feel cold air while moving, so it's being pushed in by pressure difference. Had that issue before, was hoping it was the mode selector. Got the '92's heater box to look things over on, see what part I need to focus on. It is nice to be able to select different modes, fan speeds without having to argue with it anymore.

Things didn't go quite as planned. Wasn't a good weekend to be wrenching out in Mother Nature's garage. Did manage to swap out the heater controls though. Both the fan speed selector and the mode selector are now functional again. Mode selector that came out was broke in several places, no wonder it didn't work right. Popped the hood and gave everything a look over. Looks like I get to swap PS pump again. Appears that the shaft seal is leaking on this one. Losing coolant somewhere. Overflow was empty. Pretty sure it was at the Full mark when I did the oil/filter change 1st part of the month. Pulled the cap on the radiator, it's full at this time. Need to pick up more antifreeze, none here. Did look engine over for signs of leakage, no "obvious" signs of leak. Could be that there was an air bubble in it still from when I replaced a bad hose a few weeks back. Don't know. Will keep an eye on it.... Pulled the PS door card, popped the trim clips out and re-attached the trim. Had to pop the door card loose again, after I remembered that my needlenose pliers where still inside the door. D'OH!!! Should have hit the carwash on Thursday, as it was a nice day. Need to get the mud washed off it from the (muddy) dirt road I went down the other day. 1st time I've been down that road, and it was one greasy mud run.

I would run the EA82 intake with the Weber. You already have it, so why not use it. Bought my Weber originally for an EA82. That setup has been on 2 different EA82's and 3 different EA81's now.

Correct. In searching for why my CEL is always on, I found that the ECU's are the same. Difference is in the bodyside wiring/plugs for the ECU. Auto trans vehicles have a couple more wires than the manual trans ones.

Ha.. I tried wedging coins in behind the switch on my way to work this morning. Got no joy out of that,, at all. Didn't need to defrost the windshield this morning, nice balmy 44* out at 4:50 AM. But it did get a tad chilly going down the road, so I tried a few "tricks" with no luck. I put it on #4 and just pushed the knob in every now and then to get some heat flowing around the cabin. Did notice on the trip home tonight, that the fan did want to stay running on #2 setting. Left things alone in the hopes that it'll do the same in the AM. With having the fan work by pushing on the switch knob, does make it sound like things may have gotten a tad warm inside of the switch. 245,XXX miles of use may have something to do with that. I did fully check things over on the '92 parts Wagon after I got it here. Heater fan worked on all setting, hell, the AC even worked. Plan is to do some serious wrench/screwdriver turning Friday, Saturday, finish things up on Sunday. Got a few quirks that the colder temps have brought out. Squeaks, rattles and the likes mostly, but they be annoying .... So time available, I'll look into quieting some of them.

One must do what one needs to do. I have had a few to many vehicles myself over the years. Always like having a back-up vehicle around. But 4-5 is just a tad to many and I've been there. Been a tough decision on which one to sell at times.

More grief!! Heater fan control switch is giving up the ghost. I've only had speeds 2 & 4, and was thinking that the resistor pack was the issue on 1 & 3. NADA! Started it up yesterday to defrost windshield, fan running on 2. Get back out there after about 5 minutes, still frost on windshield. Say what....... Get in to find the fan isn't running. Turned it to 4 and had a brief "ok, it's working". Then it quits again. Play around with the knob some, and it wants to work. Kept having to switch it betweens speeds on the way to work. On the trip home, Chris messed around with it, just to see what was up. Found that if you pushed in on the knob, fan would run. Even got the #3 speed to work doing so. Been wanting to swap the dash out for the Brown one from the '92, just haven't had the needed time to do so. Mode selector buttons don't like to change all the time, and now the speed switch is Fubared. Looks like that will be happening this weekend. Wish I had a new heater core here though. Be a great time to swap it in. But I do get great heat out of the one that's in there now, so.... Maybe I'll pick up a jug of White vinegar today, fill the core from the '92 with it, let it do it's thing for the duration and see how the core want's to flow water come Friday.

Could just be a Salt-Belt issue, as they do like to dump salt on the roads here. But I have had quite a bit of trouble due to corrosion with those connectors. I would make sure the connections are clean, then pack them full of dielectric grease. May save you a headache or two down the road.

Yeah, don't be afrid to take it to the Red zone on the tach every once in a while. They like it when you do that. I have hit 55 MPH in 3rd a few times. Son asks me if I be crazy. But it's my car and I'll drive it my way... Just "drive it like you stole it" every now and then.