TomRhere

Nice looking Wagon! My '88 GL Wagon is the same color, roof rack to be mounted soon. I too would love to have the quad headlight setup for mine. I like being able to have the Hi/Low ones properly aimed to light the lane. Then have the Hi's adjusted outwards, lighting up the sides of the road. Helps to spot those pesky Deer better. Just can't find a "Happy Medium" with the ones on the Wagon now.

The '92 parts Wagon came with one of those mounted near the E-brake handle. Need to get it swapped into my '88 Wagon. Slopped "HOT" coffee on myself a few to many times trying to hold travel mug between my legs.

Cool! Or would that be "Warm"?

Also check the vac lines under the hood. Cracked, loose fitting hoses can cause that to happen. If the check valve in the vac line from intake manifold to White canister (on PS strut tower) is bad you'll have the same issue also.

DS rear-PS front, PS rear-DS front. Can be done with wheels on and vehicle sitting on the ground, if you can slide under the rear enough to reach bleeders. Front wheels can be turned out to access the bleeders. I don't reccomend doing it in their parking lot... Get a bag of cheap kitty litter to asorb the old fluid that gets spilled. A short length of hose from bleeder(s) into a catch can is best way to it. Don't forget to keep the MC topped off while bleeding the system. One does not want to have to chase a self-induced air bubble out of the system. Trust me on that one.

It'll be sometime Saturday before I can really do anything. But I have all of the wiring harness and stuff from the '92 out in the garage. I can dig out the box, take a look at it, see where that line runs after it goes thru the grommet. Got a new phone that has a camera. So,, if I can figure everything out, maybe I can get you some pics. Haven't played around with phone to much yet. Going to be a learning experience for me.

You should have spark at the plug wires then. Pull one off the plug, insert a screwdriver, hold the screwdriver shaft near the engine, crank it over. See if you get spark. If you have spark, then it has to be fuel supply issue. Anti-Diesel-Solenoid on carb is the 1st thing that comes to mind. Try dribbling some gas down the carb, or use starting fluid, see if it'll want to start/run. edit; Didn't see where you mentioned pulling disty. But make sure it is timed right to the engine.

Be sure to check the o-ring for the supply tube. Also check the 90* hose for the heater return. Both of those can leak, run down the pump, and make it look like the pump itself is leaking.

Ok. Just ran outside and looked at the '88 Wagon. Brrr. 25* @ 3:40 AM in nothing but bathrobe and slippers, is not,,, proper dress.. The vac line you're holding in the last pic goes to thru that rubber grommet. Line should be 1/2-3/4" towards fender from where the large wire bundle comes thru it. I believe there's a hard plastic line, like what runs across the firewall, under the grommet. But I can't say for sure on that, and it may be some rubber hose instead. Been 5-6 months since I scrapped the '92 and pulled all of that stuff out. You may be able to take a piece of the plastic line, push it into the line in the grommet, hook the supply line to it.

Yeah, I would love to EJ one of the BRATs or the '88 Wagon. But the cost of getting a donor vehicle in these parts kinda prohibits that. I can rework one of the 2 SPFI, 2 Carb EA82 engines, or the 2 EA81 engines I have here, for a lot less money. Plus, I could always shoehorn one of the 2 ER27 XT6 engines I have into one of the vehicles. Only issue there is the radiator placement.

On mine, I swapped to the EA82 SPFI EGR to eliminate that line and the AAV (located on the DS strut tower). I have had a few of those lines crack, leading to a vaccum leak. As for blocking the ASV. Best to do so at the spacers on the exhaust. Cut the tubes, crimp them shut, run a bead of weld is best. IF,,,, the nut at the spacers will turn out, then cut the tubes, spin nut out and pull the cut tube. Then, install a quarter in the spacer, replace cut tube end and nut.

No pics. But the vac line comes from the PS of intake manifold. There's a check-valve in the line, then it goes up to the White canister behind the PS strut tower. Line goes on to the #1 port, the #2 port feeds into the climate controls.

Well, showing a tad over 200 miles driven since the oil/filter change. Cotton-pickin' TOD is still there.. Guess I'm going to have to tear into it more. Dadburnit!!!

Yeah, they do like to break, especially when you're wanting to save them.. It looks like the offending door hit was in the direction needed to spin the clips out of the channel of the trim. Basically, opposite of how one would install the clips in the trim. Attempted to use one of my o-ring picks to get the clips back in the channels, without having to remove door card. That, ain't happening.... In order to see what I'm doing with the lower area, I have to twist the top area outwards. Can't work clip enough to get it into the upper track. Risking breakage... Then, there's 4 clips to deal with. Ohwell, pulling door card isn't that big of an ordeal.

Finally did the oil/filter change, but didn't reseal the oilpan, no time. Looked at why the PS rear door trim was hanging loose. Seems someone was kind enough to give me a door ding, popping the trim off. Gee,, Thanks.... Pulled trim off the front most clip, tossed it in the back. Got to pull the door card, take clips out of door, refit trim. Thankfully, none of the clips appear to be broke. Once again, my schedule for repairs were changed by the Wife. Spent most of the weekend driving fence posts and stringing fence. She wanted a fenced area for the dogs. Mostly for Luna Tic, the 1-1/2 year old Beagle, she don't like to stay in the yard at times. Comes when she feels like listening to you. Definetly a defiant one.

I can relate to the 2-door/4-door ease of access going from BRATs to the '88 Wagon. 6'-2", 34" inseam, 225 lbs. Not real easy to exit the Wagon. When Son, Chris drives it, he slides the seat forward a couple notches. I don't always catch that he has the seat forward when I go to get in it. I don't fit the Wife's '07 HHR very well either. Took a few "window in the ribs" before I learned to open the the DS door differently. The BRATs have glass that's angled forward, Wagons are straight. Driving a BRAT for 12+ years, one gets use to certain things.

Yeah, I don't recall which of the 5 BRATs I've owned that had the problem. But do recall that "the issue/it works right" was like a 1/2 turn of the adjusting nut. I was keeping good repair logs on all of the vehicles here, even the Non-Subaru ones. I have apparently, not been to adament on that of late... Not to much on the logs as to replacing clutch cable(s) in them. I know I did a new one on one of them, swapped it into another, Just no info on the who,what,where,when. Wasn't the '84 though as it was an Auto. It may just very well be that you got a bad cable setup.

HA HA. Good laugh there on this end. No offense meant!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 2 thru 5 have been here at this humble abode. Damned Grandkids anyways..... All in good humor though... PO = Previous Owner

Not really. Once it gets to the point of dropping to low idle it drops down, revs up, drops down, revs up, drops down. Maybe 1/2 a second duration between the drop/rev/drop/rev thing. I have noticed at times, a somewhat odd idle sitting at a stop. Almost like it's missing on one cylinder, but not quite. Very random in it's occurance, so it's not something I'm going to chase down easily. Maybe that's the "panting" you talk of. Only other FIed Subaru I've owned was the '88 XT6, 2.7L MPFI. Been 5 years or so since it was on the road, don't recall much on how it did the cold start thing. My Son, Chris, had an '88 GL10 FWD Auto Wagon with SPFI. It had drivability issues when it was with the PO. We tried working the bugs out but gave up and swapped it over to a Weber. Problem(s) solved.

The grinding while shifting into reverse says the clutch is not fully releasing. That is also why the other gears have a notchy feel to them. Did you have the flywheel resurfaced? I don't remember, and haven't dug back thru the thread. May not have done the step correctly. Do you have a 1/2 inch of free play at the pedal? Other than swapping motors/trans in mine, I haven't done much clutch related work on a Subaru, but I have had issues while working on various other vehicles. Did the new clutch disc slide onto the input of the trans easily? I ask that as I've had some that didn't, mainly due to machining burrs that were left behind. A little file work took care of that. If the disc hangs up on the input shaft, it will bind up, causing it not to fully release.

Power feed to choke coil is always hot with key "on".

Have had to let the '88 Wagon SPFI FT4WD 5-speed warm up the past few days due to frost on the windows. Up to this time, I have just started it and headed on down the road, no drivability issues doing so. Fast idle is around 2200-2300, seems to be a steady run at that engine speed. When it gets warm enough to drop to normal idle speed, it'll bounce a few times between high/low idle. I find that to be quite odd in itself. May do it 3 times, may do it 6-7 times. Engine and all the associated SPFI components is out of a '92 Loyale Wagon. Recall it doing a nice fast idle and dropping to a steady low idle. I have yet to pull the IAC off and clean it, but I'm putting it on the to-do list for this weekend.

I've owned 5 BRAT's with aftermarket systems installed (by me), and never had issues with "cold temps" affecting them. Check the wire you are using for "key on power" for actuall power when everything is cold. Especially if you used the previous installers wiring methods. If that all proves out, use a jumper wire from battery to power system, see if that gets it going. I've ran a fused power feed to a few systems directly from the battery. No issues doing that other than you have to manually turn them off/on. One could use a "key on" hot wire to turn on a relay, switching battery power to the unit. Just be sure to install fuses where needed.

There's a C shaped piece in the disty, held by 2 scews. Under that is a magnet. Check to see if it's cracked/broken. Had that happen to my '85. Magnet was not only broke, it was shattered into many pieces. No idea as to why. But it wouldn't start, got to checking things over, found problem with magnet. Subaru part number for magnet, 491988711, '84+ 491987401 earlier models I never bought the magnet though. Just modded an EA82 carb disty to fit the EA81 engine.

You need to have 10 posts before you can do PM's. Nice looking XT. Does appear that it was some what taken care of.