TomRhere

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/19459-supercharger-for-ea81/ It's all explained in that thread.

Total waste of money. They don't work. Period....

I have opened many a Beck Arnley box to find the parts there in, contained in plastic bag with Subaru markings. They seem to just repack items in their own boxes.

Way cheaper to replace cam carrier than to have someone weld/machine yours. I have the parts here also. Yours for cost of shipping Contact me at tomrhere at yahoo dot com. Put cam tower in subject line.

The ports that you read of being welded are most likely the ASV ports underside of the heads on the carbed engine. The SPFI system doesn't need them, so you can remove all of that as you swap engines over. IF,, you can get the nuts that hold the ASV tubes to the heads loose, you can cut the tubes close to the nuts, remove the nuts and place a quarter in the port on the heads, re-install nut with the stub of the tube.

In the 1st pic, those wires appear to have been smashed together enough to destroy the insulation. That caused a short, and heated the Black wires enough to burn off the insulation on them, also burning those wires in two. The pic in post #11 shows even more of those burnt wires. It also shows a Blue wire that appears to have been burnt in two itself. Look at the upper left of center in that pic and you'll see it Not 100% on it, but it looks like there is heat damage to the insulation of other wires in all of your pics.

Been many XT/XT6 owners looking for the steering column surrounds. Trick there is getting the screws out without snapping the bosses they go into off. He's looking for the complete surround for the dash/radio area. Another very tricky piece to get off without breaking it. Don't remember where all the clips and screws are for the dash piece. But if you could get that off without breaking it, you have a much wanted piece.

Parking brake needs to be properly adjusted along with the rear brake adjustment. Also, these are a X-plumbed system. Bleed PS rear - DS front, DS rear - PS front. Does sound as if there may be air in there still.

It seems like almost every XT/XT6 owner is looking for a good dash surround trim. Sorry, but I don't have one. Interior trim I have is Grey

Won't find 1-3/4" conduit. 1-1/2" or 2" is trade sizes. McMaster-Carr sells various bends in mild steel and stainless. Not sure on pricing though, it's been a few years since I looked at that stuff.

http://subaruxt.com/forum/index.php?sid=8f7fe8b8f069da310e02d0f1a53cd97d

No... I had 2 - XT6's that I've parted out. Still have some things here, but not a lot, and nothing Turbo related.

Things I thought of while reading your post; Is the 4EAT wider than the D/R? What spline count on the stubs for the axles? If the auto is wider, maybe use EA81 axles along with EA82 Turbo inner cups to match spline count of trans. Just my thoughts.

Plug the Green test Connectors under the hood together and turn the ignition to "ON". You should hear the pump cycle on/off. The pump may be stuck. So if you don't hear it cycle, rap on it lightly. Might make it work.

Yeah, there is no cheap... You can go for easy, fast, reliable. But you have to pick just two of those, ain't getting all three. And the more reliable you want it, the more it will cost. Plain simple truth, regardless of what vehicle make you're wrenching/spending money on.

Best thing to do in my opinion, is to get a good set of after-market oil and temp gauges. Get them installed, keep an eye on them as you drive it around. Oil pressure starts to drop, or coolant temp starts to rise, suddenly, best be finding out the why. No real need to "Baby" an engine while breaking it in. Do so as you tend to drive it, is what I was taught. And I was taught by ones what built racing engines along with your every-day drivers.

I have 2 radio surrounds, no radio in either. 1 missing the cubby. Will get pics if you want.

I know I have a few Tan consoles, have to see what shape they're in. Let you know.

http://graph.darren-criss.org/2016/02/11/ford-ranger-alternator-wiring-diagram-l-dfaf2e8074fb2415.gif

Found the arm. Nut has again become one with the bearing housing. Do my best to get it out if you still want it. Someone had beat on the housing enough that it basically locked the nut in. Got it out once, but didn't get it back in fully and destroyed the bearing. Swapped out arms.

The arm is an EA82 type, won't fit on EA81. But they do share the same bearing set, axle stub, seals and lock ring on the 4WD Models. Be a few hours before I head out to the garage today. Let you know what I find out.

If I still have the old arm off the '88, I can pop that nut out for you. I'll dig around for it tomorrow and post back.

Look thru the Members Rides and Off Road forums on here. All kinds of ideas can be found in those.

That's one sweet looking "Parts car".

I'm a Member over on the XT6 site. Owned an '88 XT6 for a few years before rust killed it off. Running that steering rack in my '88 GL Wagon, have been for roughly 4-5 years now. Have Dextron ATF running thru it, and drove it roughly 340-375 miles a week during that time frame. No issues with rack seals here. Thinking pump seals should do just as well. Went to ATF by reading various posts on the XT6 site of ones what were doing so in theirs. One Member even had the XT6 fluid analyzed to see what it's properties were before making the switch. That's what convinced me to go ahead with the fluid swap.