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TomRhere

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Everything posted by TomRhere

  1. Usually, they are ready to go right out of the box... GD has posted the base jet and what have you sizes a couple of times.
  2. Done the hood thing a couple times, 'tis reason I need new windsheild for this Wagon. Failed to insure it was properly shut when I left Bob's place when I picked it up. Southbound semi opened the hood for me. Still, I'm under the impression that I did torque the lugs down, I'm a stickler for that. 1st thing I do when I put a vehicle back down on it's tires if I've had the tires off of it... Been that way for way to many years. I'm thinking more on the "to much paint, maybe residule rust" thing. Not sure though... Do know, lot of the noise I was hearing is gone. still have an exhaust system rattle, possible loose heatsheild, but not really sure as to where/what yet, possible u-joint or rear wheel bearing issue. Nothing really shows doing a shake/whobble/rattle check, but I can "hear it", not so much "feel it" driving down the road, Have rear wheel bearings, just need seals. Have extra driveshaft. Time will show what is going on there. Some body noises are evident also. IS, it just the wind? Don't know.. Do know I hear a lot of wind noise from the outside mirriors, is that "normal" on these Wagons? Do know I'm liking the ride this Wagon offers. Way smooth compaired to any of the BRATs. Did relearn when to shift the trans already. Liking the "apparent" gas mileage. Time will tell on that.
  3. Found cause of some of the noise I was hearing over the weekend. Loose lug nuts, all 20 of them. Was certain that I torqued them after putting them on and getting it down off the jackstands. PS front was where most noise was coming from, the left turn into the driveway last night made a clunk as I hit the approach of the driveway. Did a visual inspection, didn't see anything. Decided to check the lug nuts just for the helluvit. Glad I did... PS front was the loosest.. Maybe I didn't torque them, maybe there was a bit to much paint on the rim, maybe there was still a bit of rust on the stud flange.... Will see if todays trip to work has less noise. Got torque wrench in Wagon, just in case.
  4. Got a buffer here, just need to get a new pad for it. She would look a lot better all shined up, but a good bath wouldn't hurt right now. Drove it again this morning, no issue with 1st or 2nd downshifts. But, I knew the issue was there and I was slowly selecting the gear instead of just shifting it. So??? Ain't liking the BONG from the roof driving on some of the rough roads here. Have to get the rivets for the roof rack, get it mounted.
  5. I have a file I can send you, need email addy.
  6. Which Weber are you running? The DG series is what most on here run. The DF(?) is a mirrored unit to the DG ones. Or, are you running you're Weber spun 180* on the manifold?
  7. Nice looking collection you have there.....
  8. Sing it Willie,,, "On the road again". :D Sure felt good to drive it around..... Took it for a 7+ mile jaunt around the lake. Bit of spark knock, light pull to the right. Got back here and backed timing off a tad, just loosened bolt and bumped it some.. Got to remember where I hid my timing light before I can see what it's set at. Set about getting the front wheels both pointing in the same direction. With DS one straight, PS was turned out some. So some wrenches, some wood blocks, tapemeasurer, and the extention ladder was brought out. 20-30 minutes later, I had them both pointing where they should be. Trip to the alignment shop will be done soon, just wanting to get things close for now. She steers real easy, even without a belt on the pump. Considering swapping the Cybrid pump from the XT6 in. Another trip around the lake waas made. Acceleration is better, and no spark knock. Seems to track straight now. I do need to learn when to shift 3rd thru 5th though. Kept doing shift points like I was in the BRAT. Dummy I are..... Trans isn't liking downshifts into 2nd or 1st. Don't recall having that issue when trans was in the XT6. But, I'll get some ATF in it, drive it for a bit, see if it clears up. Got some noises that I need to track down. Not sure what they are from right now, and may need another set of ears to locate. She definetly needs a good all over bath, soon. Did clean all the glass, started swapping door cards and things over from the Grey to the Brown. Lot's more work to be done, but she is one the road. edit: I did find myself thinking while I was driving around, that I should have dropped the ER27 in it . Sure do miss the XT6....
  9. Finally got with Glen about the windshield. $75.. to install it at his shop. Got plate and insurance on it as of this past Wednesday, still haven't drove it down the road though, busy with other stuff. But, the weekend is here, so a few jaunts around town to check things out some, then she'll be the DD.
  10. If the inside of the garage is bare wood (unfinished), put some plastic sheeting up on the rafters and down the walls to keep dust at bay. Also, spray water on the floor just before painting, helps deter dust kickup also. Used to hang with a guy what did body work and paint. Prep is key to a good finish. I've taped off alot of cars for Lynn, all he ever used was plain masking tape, various widths. Didn't like the Blue painter's tape at all, said it was crap for automotive work.
  11. Looking good !! Didn't notice the cat hair until you said something about it. Haven't had a cat in the house in 4 years, still cleaning it up. Stuff gets every where..... For the glovebox door. Thinking I would put 2 more rivets along the center of the bottom row, just to even it out. If you really can't find another Tan one, I have a few extras here. PITA work to fix the tailgate rust, but have been assured that it can be done. Have 2 spare ones, both need rust repair along the bottom. Someday I'll get around to it, other things to fix 1st..... Been somewhat hording parts here myself. EA81 stuff is hard to come by in this area. EA82 isn't much easier either.
  12. I can't give exact Make/Model on all of them, but a lot of cars came with a Black console regardless of interior color. Do know both my Ex-M-I-L's and my '69 Camero's were that way. The '69 Ford Galaxie and '73 GMC Sprint I had were the same way. Wanting to say there was Chrome on them, but really can't recall all the details.
  13. I was thinking center console also. Then, if you do go with the Chrome piping Miles mentioned, you could do some there also. Black on the seat plastic will help tie the door cards in when the doors are open.
  14. You have to make some adapter brackets for the EA82 seat to the EA81 mount rails. I have a diagram for those, can send it later today.
  15. 1. Swap over to a SPFI type EGR valve, leave metal tube to head as is. The piping/hose to the AAV on the DS strut tower and the AAV can be removed. Vac line for EGR is lefthand port on carb as you look at it. 2. Sounds like you may have Cruise Control. That would be the larger of the vac lines going thru the firewall. Just hook it and the one for the HVAC system to any port on the PS of the manifold. 3. It may look tall, but the shorter filter does clear the hood when shut. Hood has that raised part in the center, just clears the filter. I had a 1/2" spacer along with the adapter on my setup, it worked. 4. If you can get the nuts loose where the tubes enter the spacer at the heads, put the quarter there, replace tube/nut then cut off everything after the nut. If the nuts won't turn, cut tube short distance from nut, flatten tube, weld it shut. Remove all the other stuff that the tubes hooked into and what have you.
  16. XT6 seats would definetly be better, but just fitting EA82 seats in would help. The White '86 BRAT had stock seats, so did the '85 BRAT when I bought it. But,, I swapped some EA82 seats into it shortly after getting it as originals were toast. Better ride comfort in it compared to the '86. I stand 6'-2" and run around 235-240 lbs, 34" inseam, 33" cuff for the sleeves. I sit with seat all the way back and tipped back against the cab wall, but I fit comfortably. I have a set of Grey XT6 seats here. You can look at them when you get here, have to get them down out of the rafters 1st. More then welcome to sit/drive in the BRAT for a comfort test.
  17. Ummm,,, No. Pressures and heat would take it back to what you started with, quickly.
  18. Yeah, the front mud-flaps are great. Been wanting some ever since the 1st BRAT I bought. The '92 parts Wagon I bought had a set for it in the storage tub that was in the back. Can't remeber if that D/R had the range shifter on it. If not, I know I have atleast 3 here. One of them be yours, if you should need it. Hope you can make it back down here weekend after the 4th.
  19. Can't take credit for that. Was posted on a former members website about fixes he did to his BRAT. Scott hasn't posted on here in a long time, and has sold off that BRAT. His website is now gone also.
  20. If you are talking of where the seat mounts actually bolt to the floorpan, I would use rivets only to be able to mount the seat in long enough to get it to someone that can weld the repair in. You want that area as strong as it was from the factory.
  21. It's an EA81 Hatch. Stock wiring harness has connectors for all of the optional equipment, so some won't be used depending on what the car has. I would look at how that "kill switch" is wired into the wiring. Then remove it, going back to the 'stock" wiring. See if the car starts and shuts off normally. There may be an issue with the ignition switch itself as to why switch was added. Or, someone just wanted to add a "kill switch". But it don't sound like they wired it in right.
  22. It's more that you remade the connections than it is the type of terminal used. Corrosion on the old ones were diminishing the flow.
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