TomRhere

Exhaust gasses want out, anyway, anywhere they can do so. Threads on that flare nut are a possible leak source. Take the nut back off and put a quarter in the spacer, install nut. If you remove the spacer, the EA81 Y-pipe won't fit back on properly, hits the crossmember. EA82 Y-pipe will fit correctly with no spacer on engine.

On my '82 BRAT, with feedback carb originally, there was a 4 wire connector on the harness that went to the carb. Going only from memory here, I recall 2 Light Blue wires in that connector that were "Key ON Hot". I used one of those for the choke power feed on the Weber.

EA82 crossmember is wider than the EA81 where they bolt to the framerails. Member on here modified one to fit his EA81, so it can be done. Another Member swapped one into his BRAT, but I don't recall who that was. One could also modify the liftblocks for a lifted rig to accomodate the width differences. Which I beleive is how the other one was done. You would have to swap in the lower control arms, (and I believe the radius arms) as they are different in shape and length EA81 vs EA82. Strut top position would have to be moved outwards to correct for the longer EA82 lower arms, or cut/reweld lower arms.

I shall leave it as it is then. Well,,, after getting the man/head bolts out. I have your addy, I'll get it boxed and shipped tomorrow. Pay me later, I trust you. edit; Ok, bolts out!! Much corrosion in holes, cleaned them out and sprayed some PB Blaster on everything. All bagged up now. Included a good SPFI type EA82 EGR valve for when you do the Weber swap, you will want it.

That, and got to watch for good clearence above the airhorn too. Get it to close, and it would be like running with the choke closed/partially closed.

Good to hear all the bolts came loose. Rust penetrant will help in getting the last one freed. Working on that with the replacement manifold for you. All 3 bolts on DS are refusing to come out of the manifold. Shouldn't have left them in there.... Got them soaking with some Yield, They turn, but are refusing to slide out. How much stuff do you want me to remove from the manifold? Like all of the steel vac lines you won't need with Weber, and such. I have the T-stat removed, carb off, and a few other items. Everything else is soaking in some Yield. Manifold is off the Brown '86 BRAT which last ran 7-8 years ago.

If you used the Hitachi's cable plate, there can be binding between the peice on the end of the cable and the choke linkage. Check there. Couple of flat washers installed on the throttleshaft before cable plate is easy fix. Done that on 3 Weber installs.

I've had no problems starting mine during cold temps. Did have issues of carb icing, mostly in fresh deep snow, or from the blowing stuff behind semi's. Cured that by fashioning a shield simular to the Factory one. Only mine was made from Aluminum roof flashing. Ran the Weber short airfilter.

Caliper piston doesn't actually adjust to wear of the pads. It's "free-floating" in the caliper, nothing there to move it other than brake fluid. When you release the brake pedal, piston stays where it was, it just doesn't have pressure on it now. Caliper slides on it's mounting points to compensate for the outer pads wear. Need to have proper lube on those slides. I would do an adjustment on the rear brakes, then bleed the brakes, RR-LF, LR-RF. See if that helps any. But it wouldn't hurt to change the soft lines either, especially if there the original ones.

Yeah Miles, you got that stuff from the 1st XT6, so it can't be from it. Didn't even think about swaybar mounting points, so it's not from the 2nd XT6 either. (So where did those arms go????????) I might have gotten it from Jim, on one of my trips down to his place, he's loaded me up with a bunch of parts. And he has scrapped a few Wagons. I know it's mate is under my '88 Wagon. Taking parts to work today, will have shipping quote later.

Arm has to be off one of the '88 XT6s, as I haven't scrapped that many other EA82 4WD vehicles that I recall doing so to. Couple of FWDs, but no other 4WD's that I remember. Cut-off wheel will take caare of that "bump" growing on that trailing arm. I do recommend that you swap bearings/seals with this one. Seems you have those parts already.

Only one filter, under the hood, over the Master Cylinder.

Nice.... You'll have to look out West or down South for a replacement gas tank. No new ones available for the EA81's, so used it is.

Got a Hitachi intake sitting here, not going to need it. edit; Also have an EA82 intake with Weber I ran on two different EA81 engines. I could let you talk me out of it for the right price.

Whew!! That was more work than one should be doing on a vacation day from the job.... Took a load in to the scrap yard this AM. Then proceeded to cut up and load the '92 Wagon, plus toss on some other "junk". Got a homebuilt trailer to cut up in the AM, then it's off to the scrap yard again. Got $156 and change out of 1st load. This one should bring in more. '91 Chevy 2500 is sitting low in the back now. Time for lots of nice cold beers.

Pulled a few more parts off the '92 parts Wagon, including the fairly new gas tank. Bonus.... Rolled it out of the garage. Time to fire up the cutting torch..

Re-hung many a door in my days, and yes, some can be a real pain... Wood shims and/or a flat prybar(s) are great helpers to align them. A few helps too.

One thing I have thought of, but haven't tried yet, to try and clean a heater core out is White vinegar. Works wonders cleaning the scale out of our Bunn coffee maker... That is what got me thinking about heater cores. Probally would be best to rig some kind of recirculating pump to flow it thru instead of just filling the hoses. Don't know..... Just a thought..

I may have an extra EA82 DS one here. I'll dig around for it today, and let you know.

64 this AM. Been many years since I've rebuilt carbs, and I have yet to do a Subaru one. So,,, I can't really say for sure on this, but... Most kits come with an abundance of parts. Most you will use, some you won't. Gaskets, check balls, float needle/seat, accelerator pump, various clips/fasteners are about all you will change out. The actual float is usually sold seperately. Idle mixture screw is hidden behind a Factory installed pin. Just dawned on me that I need to send you some more files..... After today, I'm off work the rest of the week, I'll get them sent....

Only drawback to manual steering is turning the steeringwheel at little to no vehicle speed, IE; parking. Paralell parking can be fun.... But it's doable. One may also notice more input back to the steering wheel from uneven road surfaces. Like a blacktop road where part of the lane has sunk down. Power steering helps to dampen that out.

Just a thought here, A worn cam lobe, or worn cam follower for an exhaust valve can cause an above idle backfire thru the intake. Burnt gases can't escape the cylinder if the exhaust valve isn't opening properly. Higher engine RPM's will leave those gases in the cylinder when the intake valve opens, causing a backfire. Have repaired a few OHC engines with that problem. Haven't done a Subaru yet, but it is possible on these engines also. Like I said, just a thought...

We ran the drying ovens at 250* at my old job, for roughly an hour long trip thru on the conveyor system. Molded plastic automotive trim pieces. Not to sure you would want to go any hotter, but not 100% on it either. But hotter temps could burn the paint. Other household members may not "appreciate" the smell of the paint drying.