TomRhere

Does now... even has the XT6 trans in it. For the time being.... 4 attempts tonight to upload pics either here or photobucket has failed. Previous pic is only one to go thru. Grrrrrrrr......

You need an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel. Flex the joint sideways, cut thru each of the cross's of the u-joint. Then drive each of the bearing caps inwards. New joints clips will go on the inside of the yokes. Sounds harder than it is.... edit; There may be a need to debur a spot or two in the yokes. Some I've had to, others not.

Got a can of Seafoam in the tank, less than 1/4 showing on gauge. Haven't put any in the oil yet... Uploading pics to my photobucket as I type this. Both of the '88 and of the '92 Loyale parts Wagon. Will post links when everything is done..... Trying to attach a teaser pic at this time, :popcorn:

Still not on the road. But,,,,,,,, I have; done a rough frontend alignment, sandblasted the rims, and painted them, stretched the tires over the rims, with new valve stems, and inflated them, mounted them on the Wagon, tightened the stub axle bolts on the rear diff, installed axles, filled the diff with slippery stuff, got her down off the jackstands. Fired her up, backed her out of the garage. Took the garden hose and sprayed off 16 months worth of dust... She looks good sitting out in the driveway now. Really thinking that I'm going to pull the EA81 out, and put the EA82 from the '92 Loyale parts Wagon back in it's place. There is definetly something amiss inside the engine..... Besides the knock I can't locate source of, there seems to be issues with the valves sticking. Idle quality sucks, it's all over the place, and will drrop down enough that the engine dies.. Pretty sure it's not from a vac leak as I've checked every vac line, and intake manifold gasket or fitting. There's a putt,putt,putt from the exhaust that shouldn't be there. And if I hold a piece of paper up to the tailpipe, it draws the paper into the pipe each time one of the putts happen, that be a sticky valve or two.... If I can figure out the source of the knock noise, maybe I'll leave the engine in and drive it a bit, just to see if things clear up. It has sat for some 7 years now, so,,,,,,???? But, she runs, and can be driven around the yard.

I "think",,, it's to stir the coolant under the T-stat somewhat as the engine warms up. Only reason for that thought is where the T-stat is located, it's not really in a "coolant flow" position on a "cold" engine. So it would take a somewhat longer amount of time for the T-stat to "feel" any heat. But that's just my thinking...... With that said,, I have pulled the nipple out of the housing and plugged the hole, and plugged off the one on the manifold on 2 EA82 manifolds I've swapped onto EA81 engines. Haven't noticeed any detremental effects from doing that. But,,, you should be able to buy some 1/4" coolant hose from a local parts store to replace it with.

Yeah, the weather is nuts right now..... Depending on what else I'm doing, I either have the front up on jackstands or ramps when working on the cooling system. Seems to help get all the air out when re-filling. I also leave the cap off until the engine gets fully warmed up.

Welcome aboard ! Always nice to see another BRAT on here. When you fix the rear wheelwells, box-in the shock mounts. That will help to keep rust from returning.

Welcome aboard ! Nice looking '82. Like the color of it... Have one myself, Black with Gray interior. Rear bumper is "BRAT only" to clear the tailgate when it's down. So keep that in mind when searching for a replacement. Hard to tell from the pics, but thinking I would see about straightening it, but that's just me... Trim piece for the top of the tailgate is sort of a "hard to find" piece.

The fan circuit gounds thru the thermo-switch, radiator, vehicle body, back to battery. With the key "on", unplug the wire to the thermo-switch and use a length of wire to run it back to battery -, fan should run. Providing the fuse is good... Check to make sure the short jumper wire from the top of the radiator frame to radiator support is there, and that it has good clean connections on both ends. Jumper wire should be about 8" to the left of the hood latch as you look at it from the front. If both of the above are good, the thermo-switch itself is possibly bad. Rockauto has them listed on their site.

The gargling/gurgling sound is indicating that you have an air pocket in the heater core. Need to burp that out.

It's shown in the link below. You may want to bookmark the page for future reference. http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/mick-usrm/heatercore/heatercore.html

Idealy, one would want to put the pieces back where they came from, just to keep the wear patterns between parts the same. But with that said, it really doesn't matter that much on a daily driver. It isn't going to cause any "great catastrophy" under the hood.

Welcome aboard!!!

Only things I can think of right at the moment are; clogged heater core, shut-off valve not opening.

Some of the wiring will stay with the car, unless you want to swap wiring harness, as most of that was wired for all options in most Subarus. Not going to go back to check pics, so do you have CC buttons in the steeringwheel? That would be "Factory" installed CC. CC "on" switch should be on the dash, I think...... A seperate stalk lever on the steering column with the "set, resume, decel" controls would be "add on". That,, could actually be removed, and different trim installed. Both myy '85, and the White '86 BRAT had CC. But everything was under the dash except the stalk switch on the column. Nothing under the hood except the vac line going to the manifold. Neither worked, and I couldn't/haven't found much info on troubleshooting that type.

Rear brakes most likely need adjusting. But,,, you'll find the adjusters are froze up. Rockauto lists them for the EA81's, and the EA82 FWD ones are the same. Atleast going by Son's '88 GL10 FWD Wagon they are. Good to see you have it on the road. Here's hoping your Inspection goes well.

It's vapor seperator. Takes the vapors from the tank and allows the fuel to drain back. It's tied into the loop of line just in front of the tank, and also helps the tank breath thru that 2-way valve in that loop.

Not really... Just have what good I could keep from 2 rusted out BRAT's. 1 rusted out XT6, and 1 parts XT6. Plus some other goodies I've picked up. Oh!! In my rumaging around out in the garage today, I found a good hood release cable.

8-7/8" is correct. As for the bad radiator support, I have one here I cut out of an '86 BRAT. Would have to get it out of the rafters to give it another look, but pretty sure it was in good shape. I also have the hood from said BRAT. I'll see if I can borrow a camera, get some pics of them.

Have 2 sets of the H-rims here, and they looked good on the '85 BRAT. As for blasting them, you would want to use glass beads or crushed walnut shells. Gives better finish to aluminum then sand does. But in saying that, I spent yesterday sand blasting the XT6 Motion wheels. Borrowed the cabinet from work, and had to go with what was in it.

Headlight circuits are grounded thru the switch, so I would look at the wiring to the switch. Had simular problem in the '85 BRAT. No headlights at all, but could "Flash" the hi-beams. Found bad connection leading to switch.

GD speaks the truth on need of "proper tools". I have access to what I need. Well, other then the 30 years younger eyeballs...... Magnifing glasses are an "old mans" Godsend.....:-p

I used to repair some of the control boards at the previous work place. I could give it a try.