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TomRhere

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Everything posted by TomRhere

  1. TomRhere
    Thanks for the confirmation Cougar. Still haven't finalized the wiring, as I haven't took the time to locate things inside the Wagon. Been busy on other things. Knew it was going to take me some time to get this here vehicle on the road, but it's been over 14 months now. Sheeesh.... Talk about procrasternating.....
  2. TomRhere
    Oldest Son Rich, got me one of those colaspable engine hoists a couple years ago. Love it.... Would like to get a 2-post lift, but won't fit in my garage. Seeing that lift GD posted has got me thinking of one of those now. Body doesn't like the "get down on the floor" thing that much anymore....
  3. TomRhere
    Just finished reading thru all of your builds. I am in awe of your skills with fiberglass. The 3 wheeler has got me thinking, which = not good.... Got most of the parts here to do one....
  4. TomRhere
    Didn't consider using the inner pipe, just fit the muffler to the outer pipe. Got me wondering now if that was a good idea or not....... Then again, it's been a couple years now, no issues noticed, yet.
  5. TomRhere
    Granted, mines a BRAT and not turboed, but I did the following after the flange to the mid-pipe broke off and local shops wouldn't weld it back together. Finished removing the flange from the y-pipe, bought a cherry bomb muffler to fit pipe, cut mid-pipe to fit into the c.b., cut off stock muffler and extended the inlet pipe out past the bumper. Nice mellow burble at idle, not annoying going down the road. I hear more intake noise then exhaust noise when running up thru the gears.
  6. TomRhere
    Good to hear that he's still upright and breathing, and enjoying retirement. Do miss him on here though.
  7. TomRhere
    I so need to get me a set of jackstands like those.
  8. TomRhere
    Appreciate the offer. Tom
  9. TomRhere
    PM received. Thanks ! Tom
  10. TomRhere
    Anybody on here have a link to the body Electrical Section? Or perhaps could scan parts of it for me ? Been digging around on here and few other sites, no joy found. Lot's of Engine/Engine Management files found, but nothing for the body wiring. My Hayne's, (and it's "typical wiring" just isn't helping all that much. Reason for asking; Have an XT6 FT4WD 5-speed in the Wagon, want to wire in the Diff-Lock solenoids and control switch. Found a White round connector under the hood, up near the wiper motor, that I think could be for a Pushbutton 4WD setup. Just not sure... It has 2-Black, 1-Blue, and 1-Green/Yellow wires in it. Close to what my XT6 FSM calls out, but the Blue wire should have a White stripe according to it. Also, would like to know shape/color and wire code for the connector inside the car that control switch would go to. Tom
  11. TomRhere
    Check the connectors on the sending unit for corrosion. You'll find them on the rear center of the tank. Been the issue with mine atleast.
  12. TomRhere
    Still not on the road yet.. Shortly after the last update, we got news of Del's Mom not doing to good health wise. So all monies were diverted for needed trips to Kentucky. Sadly, Virginia passed away last week of October. Since then I've been slowly scrapping money together, buying needed items, and wrenching on it when I can. Bought some Goodyear Viva 2 tires in the 185/65-14 size, still need to get them mounted. Interior is all back together now, sound system included. But,,,,,, Now, it seems I get to pull the engine back out, and drop another one in. Not sure what the problem really is, but there is a definete noise coming from the engine that I didn't hear before. Didn't have the exhaust fully hooked up before, but now I do, and that uncovered the engine noise. Can't really describe the noise, but it don't sound good, as in terminal. One thing I am curious on though. Would to much back-pressure from a clogged exhaust cause engine noise? I know the Y-pipe is good, but the mid-pipe and muffler are unknown really. Mid-pipe was under car, muffler, (really looks almost new), came from another vehicle. Kinda thinking maybe something is blocking the system, like a mouse nest. Engine doesn't want to idle now, and it was before I finished the exhaust, so.....? Don't know.... Just bummed about it.
  13. TomRhere
    Yeah, why cause an issue if you can avoid it. If it truly is clogged, you're not going to do much in improving flow really. But,,, there is that chance that you could do so. That's why one should swap the "feed hose" between both lines multiple times. You "just may" clear the blockage.. Then again,,, if you put 35 plus PSI against a system that's blocked and only "rated" for 13-18 PSI in hopes of clearing it out, and you actually split a seam, what did you gain? NADTA!!!
  14. TomRhere
    File has been sent.
  15. TomRhere
    Just looking at all of the pics. It looks as if the 2nd set of plugs would go between the White ones in the background there in the 1st pic. Just going by size of the connectors shown. There has to be a set of connectors of simular size to the "patch" connectors close by.
  16. TomRhere

    Merry Christmas to you & yours.

     

    If memory serves me right, there are 2 or 3 Blue wires that went to the "old carb". Any one of those will work for the choke power, as it just needs switched power from the ignition switch.

     

    For the fan. Try a jumper wire from the plug for the thermoswitch to Battery -, Fan should come on, key must be "on". If it works that way, check for a short length of wire from the top crossbrace of the radiator to the radiator support. That is a bonding wire to ground the radiator, you need that...

    If that doesn't work, posiblity of fan being bad. You can unplug it and run jumper wires from it's connector to the battery. Polarity doesn't really matter as you're just testing the motor.

  17. TomRhere
    Garden hose works good for flushing the heater core. But I wouldn't clamp it. Pull both hoses off at the engine side and hold the garden hose to each one by hand only. Switch between each hose after a minute or two. Your house water pressure is way above what the system is designed for, you could cause damage if you clamp it to a hose and there is major blockage/resistance to flow thru the core.
  18. TomRhere
    195/55/15 = 23.4 Been searching tire sizes myself.
  19. TomRhere
    I have a pdf of the '83 electrical system. It's not a great one as pages are missing, but it does have the lighting diagram. PM me your email addy and I can send it to you.
  20. TomRhere

    I'd be happy to help with questions on this.

     

    On mine, other than getting the linkage/cable alignment right, there was no issues with it being 180* from norm. Took me some time getting things right so I had both proper idle and full WOT of the carb.

     

    Weber to intake matching is not the best, either way you sit the carb. It would be better if the carb was more centered over the intake, but that would require a custom built intake.

     

    I had that same intake/carb setup on 3 different BRAT engines, and used it on another EA81 in the '88 GL10 Wagon I had on the road for a short time. That car had wiring issues so we couldn't run the stock SPFI.

  21. TomRhere
    Yes, I'm positive they are back-lit. Can get pics, but it will be the weekend before I have time/oportunity to do so
  22. TomRhere
    Going strickly off a few years of memory here. Do have some spares here I could get pics of. But there's atleast two bulbs that light the heater control area. Bulbs shine thru some plexiglas to cover the area and the cigarette lighter socket. Small wiring harness from them to the main harness. Could be bulbs are blown, or harness came unplugged. None of the 5 BRAT's I've owned sounded the door-open, or key-in-the-ignition, or seatbelt chimes everytime. Some days they worked, most they didn't. The '85 seems to want to work the best, the '86 was the least functional.
  23. TomRhere
    Could be hanging up on the centerline of the engine halves also. Have an intake here that's been on 3 different enginges counting the orginal one.. Had an issue with that area on this last engine. Little bit of grinding at that seam area, and it sat down like it should. And I do mean "a Little bit" of grinding.
  24. TomRhere

    Oil Pressure Switch for a '76 Olds Starfire and it's wiring connector.

    3 contacts on switch, 1 for oil light, 2 for fuel pump power.

    No Oil Prssure, no juice to fuel pump.

    Do need to fashion an adapter for switch-oil pump mounting.

  25. TomRhere
    Could be the swaybar too. Put the front wheels up on some car ramps, and have someone bounce the BRAT while you listen for source of squeek.
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