TomRhere

Ditto that with the "Traction Control". There are times when one needs to "Put the power to the wheels" to control a situation. Traction Control eliminates that option.

EGR light comes on every 60,000 miles as a Service Reminder. There's a couple of single wire connectors near the fuse box that you swap around to reset the light. Found pic in this thread, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=124963 The ones labled #3, #4, & #5 in the 2nd pic are the ones you want.

Congrat's!!! Owned a couple '86 BRAT's myself, (both rust buckets when I bought them). Stick with the '84 model year when buying parts for it. Less chance of getting EA82 parts by mistake. It happens...

If your '90 is anything like my '88, No need to remove dash cluster. Pull the knob off the switch, remove the 2 screws there. Drop the trim panel under the steering column and you can reach up and grab the switch. Could be a bit tricky to unplug/replug the connector though, especially if you have big hands like me.

The Dremel will work to get the nut off. Once you get the hub off, some rust penetrant and a drift punch should do the trick. If that fails, "carefully" drill the pin out. Take your time, you don't want to snap a drill bit off in there.

Year/Model would greatly help here. Differences between Year/Models.

Pull the rear side panel on the passenger side of the bed and check the connector inside there. I have had a few issues with corroded terminals there on a few of my BRATs.

Outside of tinting them darker, I don't know of a fix. There are days that I wished I didn't have them, even though I totally Love having them.

Ok. Just going by what the Hayne's Manual is telling me; Fuse 5 15 amp is for the Hazards, White wire, Always Hot. Fuse 10 15 amp is for the turnsignals. Green/White wire, Hot with Key "ON"/Start only. Power from both is fed into the turnsignal/hazard switch, out of that there's the following wiring. Green/Blue wire for everything on the Left side, Green/Red wire for everything on the Right side. Black for Ground. No mention of an actual Flasher unit. (thinking there has to be one though)

For the flasher's working one side only, I'd check the bulbs on the non-working side 1st. Fuse is good as system operates some what. For the turnsignals not working, Do either of the dash indicator's light when you try each sides turnsignal? No dash indicator(s) = bad fuse, missing/bad turnsignal flasher, defective switch/wiring.

Yep. To add to what SD said, Subaru's with Auto trans has a 4-port master cylinder. Manual trans with the "HH" have a 3-port. Easy to swap them out, just carefully rebend the lines to fit the new Master cylinder.

0850116 rockauto's part number, for '84 BRAT http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1267725,parttype,685 If that's the type adjuster you're looking for, it should fit either the EA81's or EA82's. I know the '88 GL10 FWD Wagon I had used that type on the rear. They were froze, and I used ones from a parts BRAT to swap them out.

rockauto.com lists them. FWD vehicles have them also. 4WD, (or most EA82 4WD) have the auto adjusters, and that set-up can be swapped, just like the rear disc set-up.

Have you tried swapping out the plug wire for that cylinder?

All you need fitting wise is another "TEE" fitting. On EA81 vehicles, there is a "TEE" fitting bolted to the "HH" bracket for the other side of the brake system. Find another one, remove the lines from the "HH", unbolt it from the frame rail, install lines into the "TEE", bleed the brakes. There was another Member on here that did this earlier this year. Pics and part number of the "TEE" was posted in that thread. I don't recall who, or when it was exactlly. I've done this myself, but I just happen to have a few "HH" laying around from scrapped vehicles, and didn't need to go buy one.

There is a wiring connector behind that rearmost panel, check to see if there is any corrosion there. It is the last connection before you get to where the wiring harness splits to go across the back of the BRAT to feed the Driver's side lights. Bad ground for the rear lighting can cause all sorts of wierd lighting issues.

PM sent.

I'll try to get a pic of it, have to borrow a camera. It's in good condition, but has been painted Yellow. I could squirt some Black on it though...

Ask the DMV about abandoned vehicle(s) and try getting a Title that way. Haven't done so in a number of years, but I have bought a few vehicles doing that. A repair shop can file for an abandoned vehicle title (here in Michigan), if said vehicle has sat on their property for a specific amount of time with no contact from owner. This one definetly fits the bill on the time spent sitting. Worth the call atleast.

I have a grille here off an '85 GL. Need a grille to fit my '88 GL. Want to trade?

EA81 oil dipstick is on the Left rear of engine as you look at it. Just behind the airfilter. I don't see it in the above pic, so thinking the handle has broke off.

WOW!! Talk about taking ones time doing stuff.. Work had kept me from doing much of anything on this here Wagon, but we're back on normal 8 hour days again. Took me some vacation time as of last Wednesday, for a nice long 5 day weekend. Spent most of it out there wrenching... The engine is now sporting the EA82 SPFI system. Pulled the front seats, console out so I could do a good carpet cleaning. Re-bushed the XT6 shifter and installed it. Driveshaft is in, but rear diff is not. Was swapping in a LSD chunk when I found bad bearings on it. So,,,, more money needed. Re-installed the front body components that Bob had removed. Radiator and fan is in and all hooked up. Made adapter plugs to fit the trans and body wiring. Got the CD player ready to be installed. Rigged the aftermarket fuel pump from the XT6 in. Pump is running, but doesn't seem to be moving fuel. Need to look into that...... Lots more to go yet, but,,,,, IT RUNS !!!!!! Fired it up yesterday using starting fluid. Didn't run it long as I need to get coolant in it. Just wanted to see if it would start up. Need to look into why the windshield wipers want to cycle each time the key is turned on. It's probally the motor itself, as they stop where ever they happen to be when the key is turned off. Got a few things to purchase yet, but I gained alot these past few days.

Been a couple days now, so I hope this isn't to late for you. But I took the liberty of drawing on the above pic, as to how the lines are ran for thr seperator and carb.

Yep, 12 volts to the small terminal on the starter. I have an old beat-up screwdriver I use for jumping the starter connections. Just slide the boot off the main battery cable, lay screwdriver blade against it and touch the smaller terminal. Check the tightness of fit on that small terminal on the starter also. I've had a few of them that were somewhat loose fitting. That,, could cause a loss of power to the starter solenoid.

I'm totally convinced it's the switch on mine. I've already bypassed the overheated connector for it. When it does it, a slight twist towards "RUN" position gets it cranking again. Been a couple years since I've had an XT6, so can't really recall how things are on one. But you could pull the lower dash trim and locate the switch connections, un-plug them and see if there is any evidence of the terminals getting hot. Melted or discolored plastic is what you'd be looking for. As for a quick test of switch and wiring to the starter issue. Turn the key to the "RUN" position, pop the hood and jump the terminals at the starter (make sure trans is in neutral)... That would tell you whether or not the engine will actually crank over long enough to actually run. Hopefully, it does so.. You may need to wire up a relay for the starter circuit, if the above gets it running. That "FIX" has been covered on here a few times, but I can give you the "How-to" if you need it.