TomRhere

The hose from the top of the seperator Tee's into the fuel return line coming from the carb, goes back to the fuel tank.

My '85 BRAT does simular on occasions. I'm convinced that it's the whole ignition assembly on the steering column, and it's wearing out. I have to work the key to find the "right area" in order to turn it. It will also stop cranking the starter if I turn it to far while trying to start it. When that happens, all dash lights go out until I twist the key back slightly. May be what is happening on yours. I had another BRAT where I pulled the switch itself off the column after Del tried using the wrong key and jammed the key in the lock. I used a screwdriver to work the switch, and you can turn it to far while cranking, losing all functions.

Actually, Fog Lights should be Yellow. Helps cut the reflected light (back at the driver) down better than what a White Light does.

I have the wiring diagram. Email me at tomrhere (at) yahoo (dot) com, and I'll send them to you. Put BRAT wiring in the subject line.

Ok, not sure on where the electrical connections are on anything other than a BRAT. But,,, Check your connections at the sending unit, you may find them corroded... Have had that same issue you describe happen on a few of mine.. On the BRAT's, they are located on the back of the tank, other EA81's could be in the same area.. I can't say for sure, as I've only owned BRAT's..

+1

Thinking it's not a "need to do it" thing with moving the Hill-Holder valve, it just leaves more room around the disty. Person that swapped the EA82 into my '82, just unbolted the HH and left it hanging. I removed it when I pulled the engine for a reseal. But I did play around with it's actuall fit with it installed, both Factory and relocated.

Ran an EA82 in my '82 BRAT, it was in it when I bought it. There is about 3/8" of clearance from the valve covers to the frame rails. A bit tighter on the driver's side near the disty. But it will fit. You need to lengthen the EA82 disty wires to the coil, but that's the only wiring on the engine you have to change. If you go with the EA82's 5-speed trans, you have to adapt it's wiring to the BRAT. I have that info around here,,,, somewhere. If you keep the Hill-Holder, you need to move it towards the firewall the distance of it's mounting holes. This is to clear the disty. You can remove the HH and install a "Tee" fitting in the lines also. I know the EA82's lower radiator hose fits the upper return to the EA81's radiator with some trimming. Not sure on a lower hose though, as mine had the EA82 radiator adapted in. I would also leave the waterpump mounted fan off, and install another electric fan. The WP mounted one is to close to the radiator for my liking.

Any chance of being able to use a steam cleaner? Really would be the best way to clean it for any painting. Loved being able to do that with auto parts when I was in the Marines, eons ago....

Turn on the Emergency Flashers. Are the dash indicators lighting up? If they don't, a connector has came loose. Most likely on the back of the dash unit itself. I don't recall at the moment just how the dash indicator lights affect turnsignal operation. But they do have an impact on how the system works.

Having the wrong lamp in the brake/tail socket can very well cause all of those issues.

That,,,, may be your issue. If just the front was lifted, it negated the "Factory angle setting". It really doesn't take much of a change in angle to "adjust" it's operation,,, from what I've read on it anyways. I would pull the rear bolt, find one a tad longer, (if needed), then stuff a couple of flat washers under the mount bracket at the rear. One may be way more than enough though.

I can see the spring was on the HH when the pic was taken. Is it still there? The spring holds it in the open position for normal brake operation. One can adjust the angle that the HH operates at by placing shim(s) under either of the mounting bolts. Thinking I would remove the rear bolt and bend the bracket to give it a more nose down stance, just to see if it helps any. And yeah, I would definetly swap a Tee fitting in there myself. Done it to a few of mine.

The hose you're holding onto goes on the forward fitting of the aircleaner and hangs down freely. The hose you now have on the front, should go to the ASV silencer. Follow the metal tube from the underside of the head and you will see the ASV. The silencer should be right there also. You may have to move the attached hose from the valve cover over to the middle fitting on the aircleaner to attach the hose.

You can use ATF in the Cybrid System. Someone on the XT6 site has been running it for a year or two with no issues. I tried using the XT6 crossmember in the '88 Wagon. I did have to drill mount holes as you mentioned. I flipped the EA82 one over ontop of the XT6 one, aligned the lower control arm pivot points and the holes for mounting to the frame rails, then drilled the others. After getting everything bolted into the Wagon, I discovered that the slots for the motor mounts were to far forward. Didn't dive into checking out things any further and swapped the XT6 rack and LCA's over to the EA82 member. When I was doing all of this work, I was sortta pressed for time to get the Wagon drivable. That was main reason for not digging into why/what was issue with the XT6 crossmember. Now, the project is "On Hold" and I would have the time to do so, but engine is in now and I don't feel like pulling it all out now.

No PM from you yet.... May have to do with your post count. You can email your info to me. Use my screen name on here and add, at yahoo dot com. Put hill holder in the subject line.

That Wagon looks good from that angle.

Had same issue with the 1st '86 BRAT I owned. Disconnected the cable and no more leak, never did repair the HH. Been a few years since I read the post, but I believe it was Skip that said there is just some o-rings in the HH, and they are worn and causing the leak. I have a couple of HH's laying around here, and no use for them. I can send 1 or 2 your way. PM me your addy.

Could be your igintion switch is going bad. But I can't say for sure. Heater fan is fed direct from the Igntion to the fan thru the fusebox, so 'High' should work if the resistor are bad. From what you posted, it really sounds like the contacts in the ignition are worn. They make sometimes, othertimes they don't. Any other oddities happen during the "no heater fan"?

As far as the EA82 carb intake swap, I'd say go for it. Especially if you're going with a Weber swap. It has a larger port opening where the carb bolts vs the EA81. So if you go with larger carb, why not have a larger carb port? Some work needs to be done to ease fitment of it around the EA81 disty, but other than that, it's a direct swap. EA82 lower radiator hose fits for the upper radiator return hose with some trimming.

OMG!!!!!!!! :slobber::slobber: I WANT!!! But can't afford... Please keep it as original as you can...... Never,,,, drive it in Winter conditions. My '85, "was" in extremely great condition, until I drove it during the Winter, no choice really. Road salt took toll on it rapidly. Welcome to the Board.

If the whole vehicle is dead, no horn, brake lights. I would think the battery cable(s) are culprit. Link to XT and XT6 FSM. http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/

Christopher and I chiseled thru the 1/2"-3/4" of ice on the BRAT and other vehicles here. He then braved the roads to go get batteries and such. We lost power around 3am, got it back little over an hour ago.