TomRhere

White wire = Main battery feed, 12V+ Blue wire = Acc feed to fuse box; heater blower, radiator fan Black w/white wire = starter Black wire = main ignition feed to fuse box; headlights, fuel pump, ignition

The "check engine light" does not flash the codes. The ECU has a light on it that flashes the codes. Not positive here, but thinking that you can clear any codes by disconnecting the battery for awhile.

Just got back home from a roughly 500 mile round trip to get the '88 Wagon from BoxerBob. Got lots to do to it to get it drivable again, but it's a good solid platfrom to start with, unlike the last '88 Wagon I had.

There is one Tee on the HH as is now. You could remove that one to source a proper sized one. You will need 2 Tee's total when you do this. The one on there now, plus the additional one. If you foresee a trip to the local salvage yard in your future, you could snag one out of another so equipped Subaru.

You should be able to get the 'Tee' at your local parts store, or a trip to the local salvage yard. No real need to hit the stealership....

All you need to do is remove the HH assembly itself, and install a 'Tee' fitting in it's place. You need to re-route the existing brake lines abit by carefully bending them. Then bleed the brakes. I've done it that way myself.

Think all 3 of use summitted our replies at the same time, (even if the time stamp says otherwise). Had a major slow-down going when I hit the send button.

No actual fuel pump relay, there's a Fuel Pump Control Unit, FPCU. Mounted on the kickpanel, above the hood release. Should be Black with a 6 place connector. Works off disty signals saying that the engine is running, also feeds the choke power feed. I'm not 100% convinced that it actually powers the fuel pump during cranking of the starter. Mainly 'cause the floatbowl should have sufficient gas in it to start the engine, therefore not really needing the pump to run, unlike a FI system. GD has commented on many posts concerning this. So a search of FPCU and GD should get you some good info.

Member on here did that. He has a thread about it, somewhere on here. Has a motorcycle engine/trans under the hood if I 'members correctly.

Thinking I just found what the Wife is getting me for Christmas. Now, just to convince her of that idea.....

Low output usually indicates bad alt due to worn brushes/comutator/wiring issues. High output usually is sign of bad regulator. Other issues arise when the diodes/rectifier is going bad.

Yeah. Lower inside corner is NOT the place to put those. Grrrr....

I like the 4.3 idea. Less weight than a V8, and quite a bit of room to get more out of it in torque and horsepower. The '91 GMC Sonoma ST I had, (then Rich owned, was the one he got burnt in), was awesome. I got it from the 2nd owner, and they had done work on the auto trans to make it shift "nicer", as in "not slam into the next gear". Damned thing would still roast the tires thru all gears into drive, and then some. You definetly didn't want to have your foot into the go pedal going around a curve and have it shift gears, you were instanly sideways. And it was a basic stock motor, nothing fancy that we found during the rebuild of it. Always said the ST on the side of it stood for "Spins Tires".

quote from TheLoyale, 2" Convex Mirror. $1.97 at Wal-mart. end quote... The '85 BRAT has some rectangular ones on the side mirrors, from a PO. I hates them....... Right in the spot I want to look in to see where I'm backing into. Been better in the upper inside corner in my opinion.

Sent the rusted out hulk of the White '86 BRAT to the scrappers. Guy is to be back for what's left of the '88 Wagon. Threw some odds-n-ends junk into both of them, don't look so much like a salvage yard around here now. Wife be,

Chill down... Not everyone knows the correct way to measure rims.

Haven't priced a Subby trans around these parts, so no idea on that. Pretty sure I could swap one out for him though. Guy said the car was a theft recovery. So who knows what all was abused...

I'll let him know if/when he stops back by here. Hmmm.. Maybe I can get a decent price on it. Get me an EJ and sell off the shell. Yeah right...

Just had a guy stop here at my place, (he was looking at the house for sale next to me), and asked who is it that owns the Subarus. Me, said I. Says he recently bought a Legacy at police auction and it has no reverse. Said it does move forward, but he didn't want to drive it all that much in fear of tearing something up. Told him I'd asks the guru's here, see if I could get some ideas from them. He'll stop back by in a couple days to see what, if anything, is said.

Have to ask; How old are the heater hoses? Reason for asking; Few years back I bought a Subie with supposed bad head gasket. Owner was shown the "residue" on the DS head. Get it home and was doing some checking when I noticed steam from heater hoses. Sure enough, they were weeping coolant. New hoses, and we were golden.

Not really. 50/50 is ideal, but up to a 70/30 mix of Antifreeze/water is okay, depending on climate region. A lot of 'low speed-hi rev' driving will cause an engine to run warmer than normal. The cooling system relies on airflow thru the radiator from forward motion of the vehicle, along with the fans flow of air. Speeds less than 25 MPH, don't really move enough air thru the radiator. Atleast that is what I'm told by people that know way more than me about these things.

Pick-up coil in the disty went bad, or wire(s) to it have broke off. I had one instance of the magnet under the "C" shaped piece in the disty shatter, a multitude of little pieces where found. No idea as to why it did that. Slapped in another magnet, and it was good.

Nice looking BRAT!!! Need to get going on my '82 BRAT, then get after the '85 BRAT.

Hose in the upper left of the pic, is for the ASV, you can remove it. There's a few more components down there, if you follow the hose. I removed the silencers from mine a capped the ASV itself. Other part in the pic is the Idle-up for AC. It can be removed and the vacuum line plugged, if you don't have AC anymore. There is a way to make it work with the Weber, but you'd have to search for that info. I don't know it right off the top of my head. You could weld the cable attachment to the throttleshaft if you run out of other options. Last ditch idea for that though.

Finally got proper working brakes on Son's '88 GL10 Wagon yesterday. MC went bad, swapped in anotheer one I had here, but couldn't get any of the bleeders to break loose due to rust. Been hitting them with a spray of Yield for the past few weeks, and finally got them all freed yesterday. Even got the adjusters to work on the rears by spraying them dowm also. Kinda moot now, as this here Wagon is soon to be put out to pasture. To many electrical issues with it, and the underside of it is to the point of not safe anymore.