TomRhere

I recall reading of people finding the seal tape on the tail/brakelight housing being the source of their leak.

Agreed. The bushings on the shift linkages wearout, things get real sloppy then. Get it up on jackstands and take a look at it. Have someone move the shifter around for you while you're under there.

Beautiful! +1 on more pics of finished project....

Zip-ties work great for boot clamps....

Haven't done so myself... But have read of members on here taking them apart and cleaning them to get them working again. If, you have bad contacts in the switch(s), maybe taking parts out of the Blue one will get you fixed up.

Don't have wiring diagrams in front of me right now to look at the circuit. But,, Un-plugging the kick-down switch on the gas pedal should stop it from blowing the fuse.

The 2 by the coil may be for Air Conditioning Relays. The ones in the last pic may be for door speakers.

Get that alot driving my BRATs around here. Down to just one roadable one at the moment. But I have the only 3 BRATs within 50-60 + miles. Get alot of, "my (insert family member) had one of those". Love it! Always ask them "why'd they get rid of it?" Currently DDing my '85. Have an '82, and a rustedout '86, not really safe to drive anymore. Had another '86 what died from road cancer, and traded the '84 for the '88 XT6. Was a good trade in my opinion. Sadly, the XT6 died of road cancer also. Damned road salt!!!!!!!

Nice BRATs!!

Been chasing a frontend vibration on the '85 BRAT. Came and went depending what road/section of road I was on. Would literarly shake the steeringwheel out of my hand at times. Looked at all of the usual suspects, just didn't look at the tires themselves that hard. Until this last Wednesday. Found DS front and PS rear tires had broken belts. Bad wear marks on about 1/3rd of the tread area. Swapped DS rear to DS front, put a couple good tires on the rear. No more vibration.... No need for 4WD right now, so tire difference F/R ain't an issue. Going to do a 6-lug conversion on it. Get away from the 13" tires that are getting hard to find around here.

The mount "bushing" on the rear diff is not replacable, you have to swapout the "mount bracket" itself. Any EA81, EA82, or XT6 mount bracket will work. They are all the same. My '88 XT6 had the same stance as yours on the rear, it had the coilover swap done before I owned it. Was told to flip the top mount brackets for the rear shocks, and that would lower the rear a couple inches. Liking the new look of yours.....

http://www.mikeshoup.com/docs/fsm/EA81/

Yeah, a Light Tan, non-glossy look is what you want. Is the Black a dull Black or a shiney looking Black? Dull Black = rich condition. Shiney Black = oil burning. Ditto on the, make sure all of the ignition stuff is in good/new condition. Plugs, cap+rotor, wires. Also, insure that plug wires are in proper rotation on cap and cylinders.

Link to an EA81 FSM. http://www.mikeshoup.com/docs/fsm/EA81/ Much Thanks to Mike S. for having it up again...

I've done this by the following; remove drive belt, pull the return line off pump, letting that fluid drain into catch can, cap-off the line on the pump for the return line, fill resevoir with fresh fluid, spin the pump pulley, (I have a small 3/8 drive impact that works great for this), this will pump the fresh fluids thru the system. Be sure you have the free-end of the return line in a catch can. Keep the resevoir topped off with fluid as you're spinning the pulley. Be sure to crank the steeringwheel from lock to lock also. (I have vehicle on jackstands and just move the front tires with my foot to do this.) You can, leave the drive belt on the pump and run the engine to do this. BUT,,, you need to have an assistant to help keep the resevoir full, and to insure the return line stays in the catch can.

Pulled the tank to pump line off, and blew air back thru hoping to clean the pickup screen some. May have helped, as Son took it for a drive and actually was able to get it up to 55 MPH without issues. Still, the clear fuel filter I have under the hood is less than 1/4 full. I have it mounted so the "in" line is at the bottom, "out" is at the top. Thinking it should show more fuel in it sitting like that.??? We then set about seeing what was the issue with the DS rear door not wanting to open. Managed to pull the trim panel off without to much damage. Messed with the linkages for the latch, and got it to open. Did some adjusting and bending of the rods, door now opens from both sides.:] Hoping we have the drivability issue fixed. Much more to do on it. But that's all for another thread or 2, 3, 4, 5....

http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/Radiator%20pics/ Link to pics. I have them in a zip file also, so I can send them thru email.

Definet fuel flow issue. I installed a clear fuel filter under the hood the other day. Yesterday, Chirstopher took the Wagon for a drive. When he came back, I popped the hood. Very little gas showing in the filter, was nearly full when I started the engine after installing the filter. So,,, either the pick-up screen is somewhat clogged, or I'm losing power to the pump somehow. I'll pull the tank line later, blow some air back thru it, see if that helps any. Not real sure what to do if it's electrical, but I'll figure something out.

Just did this swap on Son's '88 Wagon. Tried the SPFI on the EA81, but there's wiring issues in the harness, so it's sporting the Weber again for now. I adapted the EA82 PS pump bracket to fit the EA81, still need to finalize the belt tensioner, but it's drivable as is. In doing so, I had to mount an idler pulley to keep the Alt/WP belt from rubbing on the PS bracket. Also had to place an 1/8" shim behind the drive pulley for the pump, so that the pulleys are aligned properly. PO removed all of the AC stuff before I got the Wagon. I've replaced most of it, but haven't attempted the compressor mounting yet. I need to compare the '85 BRAT's AC mounting to see what I can do to mount one onto this engine. It's possible, that when I do get the compressor mounted, I won't need my "rigged" PS belt tensioner, as the belt is running in the same crank pulley as the compressors belt would be in. Don't know...

Check the battery cable connections, all of them, not just the ones on the battery.

Thinking I could live with the hood scoops, but NOT the doors. Ruined it... Radio plate looks like brushed aluminum or brushed stainless steel. Not a real fan of that Green either, but the look of the body is real nice otherwise, sans the Lambo doors.

Best part is, nothing needs done to have it work as it should. Providing the thermoswitch in the radiator is good.

No pics at the moment, but I can get them. Anyways, I found both a 1 row and a 2 row EA82 radiators, both are for an automatic transmition. Tank on the waterpump hose side is the same width on both. Return tank is approx 13mm wider on the 2 row. I would say it's the same width as the WP side tank is. Single row core is more centered in the tanks, than it is off to either front/rear. Bottom locator pins appear to be centered with the center of the WP side tank on both radiators. Both cores are the same width, tank to tank. All mount points for the fans(s) are identical. Top/bottom cross braces are different. Differences in the front side areas, not the fan-mount areas as I had said before this edit. If you need more info, or really want some pics, let me know.

I've always been under the impression that the extra rows on a multi-row radiator are added to the frontside, keeping engineside clearances basically the same. Not 100% positive on that though.. As for mounting the waterpump mounted fan; Yeah, you can replace the studs/nuts with bolts. But,, you can also toss that fan as far as you can, and mount a second electric fan to the radiator. EA81's with AC where done this way, and the second fan was of a thinner design. I'll look thru the pile of junk radiators I have here, see what I can determine on any differences. Can't say right this moment if there's a 2-row one in there, but there might be. Do know there's an XT6 one in there, that may be a 2-rower.

Well, if it runs with starting fluid, and/or pouring gas into the carb, it's definetly fuel related. http://www.mikeshoup.com/docs/fsm/EA81/ Link to a FSM for an '83 Subaru. 90+% of the wiring is the same as your '86. I use that FSM for working on my '85. There's a few differences between the years, but it works for the most part doing repairs. It should help in getting yours running again. As GD said, need to check fuelpump. Is it getting power, does it run if you run hot wires to it from the battery? There's a Fuel Pump Control Unit, (FPCU), located just above the hood release. It's about the size of a deck of cards. It runs the pump during starter cranking, and then senses output from the altenator to run pump while engine is running. It will not allow pump to run if the engine is not running with the key "on". Safety item there incase of accident. They do fail on occasion. There is also a fuel shut-off on the carb, that may be the cause of your no start. It shuts the fuel off to keep engine from deiseling when you turn off the key. You need to find out what wires were damaged in that fire, repair them as needed. One of them could have broke, and that could be the source of your problem.