TomRhere

Could also be the ignition switch. My '85 BRAT will startup and idle as normal, but at times,, some of the "key on" functions don't work. Turn the key a bit, and things work.

You should find metric brake line and couplings at your local auto parts store. Replacing the lines is time consuming. Have to pull door sill trim, kick panels, heater blower for PS, DS is a PITA duee to steering column, and pedals being in your way. Plus pulling whatever you need to behind the front seats. The brake lines run down both sides of the vehicle. There are couplings under the hood on the firewall, and couplings where the lines exit the body at the rear. I've done this on 2 BRATs, but no other Subarus, so I can't say what all needs done on yours. Bleed the brakes, RR-LF, LR-RF, as they are a cross-plumbed system. IF yours is the EA-81 Hatch and not an EA-82 3-door, then seats and hood release from any EA-81 bodied vehicle will fit. Other model seats will fit, but you need to adapt the slider rails. Proper size steel brake line can be used for replacing the gas lines. Can't help much with the carb issue. I don't do much messing with the stock carbs, I run Webers. You may need to clean/rebuild yours. Also, spray carb cleaner at all of the vacuum lines and what nots while the engine is running. Any change in engine speed will point to a vacuum leak. Repair those as needed. The flex pipe won't last long. Check with some local exhaust shops on getting some pipe bent for it. Not to costly really, especially when compared to buying the replacement system. Scarry!!!!

Yuck!!!!

Should be a heavy gage Black/White wire.

Sounds like the wheel hub has stripped out the splines. Start it up, put it in gear (2WD) and see if the axle nut is spinning. If so, hub is srtipped. Replace hub and you're good. FYI: I always do a re-check on the axle nut torque (145 FT-LB) after driving 100 miles or so after working on them. Have had a couple become loose from things "settling in". May be what happened to you here.

You are to young to have that enjoyment..... Nothing like sitting behind the wheel of a 6 the 1st time. Well,,,, OK. Maybe the 1st time behind the wheel of a WRX STI....

Try running it for a while with the ignition timing set at 10* instead of 8*. 2 of the engines I've Webered liked that. And I consistantly got 27-29 MPG per tank. Just be mindfull of spark knock if you try it. If you get any, back timing off a tad.

Probally best to ask these questions over on the XT6 site. More members there have tore into these engines. If all else fails, I have 2, ER-27's sitting here. Could let one go to you for cheap, or do some parts swapping.

Was nice day out today, so lots got done. Not all good news though... Seems the engine I put in last October or so, is junk... Less than 50 PSI during compression test, warm engine, on cylinders #3 and #4. 110 PSI on both #1 and #2. Didn't play around anymore on try to find out why. Started pulling engine, and it be on the garage floor. Got the engine from the rusted out '86 BRAT ready to be pulled. It's going into the Wagon, period. May be SPFI, may be Webered. It's the only other engine I have here available that I know runs. So...

Had to open my mouth about going to 12 hours. Did a few 12+ days this past week, so no wrenching done during the week. Yesterday, get home from work, do my "normal" weekend errands, and decide to head out to work on the Wagon. While I'm getting ready, Son informs me the battery is dead in it. HUH?? Then he takes off in the HHR, with the key for the Wagon. D'OH!! Anyways, I re-checked T-belt timing, re-checked disty timing (static). Both spot on... Swapped new fuel filter in. Checked the temp sensor connections mentioned by Fox, looks clean. Sensor could be bad though. Checked accessory drive belts, they were somewhat loose, so I re-tensioned them. New belts do stretch a bit... Could be cause of low battery. Forgot to bring home my DMM from work, so I can't check things out as far as ohms, voltages, what have you. Grrrrr.... Spent time digging around in the garage looking for items people are wanting for their XT's. Basically killing time until Son returns with key... Did try jumping starter at the connections. Yep, battery is low, but not dead. 3 hours later, still no key and my feet are getting cold. I be done!! I'll head back out later this AM and do some more investigating.

Thanks Miles,,,,, I'll check that sensor out. Any idea if one off one of these ER-27 engines would be the same? Things are a bit of a mess outside around here, so I won't get out there tonight, maybe tomorrow after work. Engine doesn't really act like it's running rich though. No raw gas smell from the tailpipe, no Blackish smoke either. But the chugging does make one think of that. Also reminds me of a bad set of points in the older pre-electronic ignition cars. Really need to spend more time on diagnosing it, instead of trying to get everything else working on it. But it does go down the road, and Son is gratefull for that part. Just don't have alot of wrenching time during the week. I'm gone 13+ hours during the day doing the job thing. Working 10 hour days with a 45 minute oneway commute, (on a good day). Talk of us going to 12 hours in a few days. Just got home about 30-40 minutes ago and ate supper. Now,, I want to relax a bit, take a shower.

No, I didn't leave the Green ones connected. I need to get a few things from the local parts store, so I'll get the OPS then. May take you up on the Y-pipe, just in case this one doesn't last. Really not sure on the chugging. It's a bit hard to start, and has a rough idle. Sortta like it's missing, but it's not. Accelerates down the road fairly decent, but no pick up when you give it more gas. Just slowly picks up speed, even if you floor the pedal. I do feel distinct pulses from the tailpipe, so I don't think any of the exhaust system is plugged. I could be wrong on that though. Still need to swap in a new fuel filter. And I'm wanting to clean the MAF, air valve, and other things under the hood. All parts on the ignition side of it are new, except the disty and coil. Still have a lot of tinkering to do on it. But Christopher is happy that he can drive it.

Well, as of today, it's officially on the road. Got it insured and a 30 day tag on it for now. But young one is happy he has his own car now. Found that the PS headlight was just a bad bulb. It worked, was just dim. Swapped in another bulb and it be fine. Had issue with wipers not working. Tore into it looking for an electrical issue. Turns out it was just the linkages all stiff from sitting around. I can relate to that problem. Rear wiper don't work, period. Thinking it's bad motor, as I have juice at the plug for it. Christopher decided he didn't like the bent front DS fender. So,,, he swapped one on that I had here. Not the best of shape, but it ain't bent. Noticed the last few times we started it, it wanted to chug. It's not wanting to startup real easy either. So,, I pulled the plugs to have a look. #1 was fouled. Also, wire end was still on plug when I pulled the boot. AHA! quick fix. NOT! Fresh plugs, new wire, and it still chugs. So I need to look into other causes. But, T-belts are good and in proper time. Correct orintation of wires on the cap. Timing is spot on according to my light. New to SPFI stuff, so I gotta dig around for the info. Engine ran just fine as far as I can remember when pulled it out of the '82 BRAT some 6 years ago. Yes, it's an EA-82 engine, swapped into the BRAT before I bought it. Now it's in this '88 Wagon with SPFI, engine was carbed before. Got about 8 gallons of fresh gas in the tank, along with a bottle of SeaFoam. So,,, maybe over the next few days of him driving it it'll straighten up. We shall see.... Oh!! Did get some nice used tires for the front. Will do the rears next payday.

Nothing like taking ones time in doing stuff. Just haven't had much time to spend wrenching on this, but I've been plugging away at it. Only have about 4 hours a weekend to wrench on it. To date, repaired the Y-pipe and installed it. got the exhaust all hooked up. swapped the radiator out. installed another throttle cable. replaced defective DS outside mirror. (no move) fixed the PS front turnsignal. (rusty socket) swapped in another heater blower motor. (froze up) installed new battery. Left old one hooked up and it got drained down enough to freeze. Dumped some gas into the tank and fired it up this last Sunday. IT LIVES!! IT MOVES!!! Christopher enjoyed running it up and down the driveway. Just wanted to get the rust cleaned off of the brake parts so it will roll easier. It's been sitting here for 5 years now. Still need to, replace all the wiper blades. give it a bath. It be nasty dirty.... find some good tires for it. get tags and insurance on it. (tomorrow) figure out why the gas gauge is stuck at 3/4 tank. check the wiring on the PS headlight. It's dim, way dim. Bad ground is my guess. Down the road items to fix, rear DS door doesn't open, period. swap DS front fender out, smashed in at headlight. replace heater speed resistor pack, only have 2nd and high. swap in a CD player and new speakers. Got that stuff here.... Was really wanting to have this on the road last Fall, but it didn't happen. Oh well.. Giving it to Christopher so he will have is own car. He's been running the wheels off of his Mom's HHR. Time for him to have his own set of wheels.

Nice pic...

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69741 The thread with all the info. Some of the earlier links to the PDF don't work, but the later ones do. Lots of other info in the retro-fit forum, where that thread is located. The 1st link I posted, should've taken you to the retro forum.

Sounds like you are wanting to do an EJ swap, info here. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&***=29

Does sound like carb issue. Was just getting on here to start a thread on mine, when I saw this one. My '85 BRAT is acting very simular, but it will "free rev" in neutral. It will start to die if I try to let out the clutch. Once it does "stall", it's very hard to restart. Was running good, just started acting up in the last few days. Drove to work and back Tuesday, no real issues. Couldn't get it out of the driveway later that night. Thinking we both need to do a rebuild on the carb. :-\

Got the "original" link off here, but it stopped working. Mike says he changed servers, and some things didn't work again. He sent me a new link, the one posted above. Best to download it to your system, and/or burn it to disc. Thanks Mike, for getting it available again!!!!

Yeah, you've sprung something by jamming it open like that. Always use a prop rod of some sorts. Never jam something in the hinge area. Possibilities are; 1. hinge(s) 2. hatch hinge area 3. body hinge area If the hinge(s) be sprung, just replace them. I have had decent luck in straightening the hinge mount areas of either the hatch or body using a block of wood and a hammer. You need to remove the hatch to do it though. In all honesty, it's not an easy job, but doable.

http://www.mikeshoup.com/docs/fsm/EA81/ That's what I use for my BRATs. Seems to work well with the '85 & '86. We'll see how it works when I get back to wrenching on the '82.

Can't say that it'll actually work for you, but.... See if you can find a longer bolt and some flat washers/spacers to move the cable adjustment bracket further back from the carb. If you have enough pull on the cable after moving the bracket, you should be able to open the secondary of the carb. That's how I have mine setup, but it's not your standard Weber swap either. EA-81 engine, EA-82 carb manifold, Weber spun 180*, cable crank on carb flipped upside down. Throttle cable is now on DS side of engine. Only reason for doing it that way was I didn't like the interferance of the Webers choke and disty wires. Used the EA-82 intake as I had that setup already, and no EA-81 adapter for the Weber.

Nice fab skills there.. I like it!

http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

I would have to study the wiring diagram to be sure on this. But it sounds like you missed a circuit feed when you did the swap. Blower motor is back-feeding the "key on" circuit that feeds the tach. Atleast that's what I think is happening.