TomRhere

NICE!!!! :slobber:

What is the correct way to run the cable from the firewall to the attachment on the engine? I had to replace the one on the '85 BRAT last night, as the housing on the old one had broke, causing some interesting moments... Few zip-ties properly placed during my lunchbreak allowed me to drive it home. I swapped in another cable, but it didn't look right, routing it the way the old one was. To much of an angle at the bracket it attaches to. So,,, I routed it under the oil dipstick attachment point, seems like a better alignment, but I don't know.. Nothing else here to go by as any EA-81 I have is either missing engine right now, or things are no longer stock under the hood.

Email addy link isn't working. Email gets bounced back as 'undeliverable". Sent you a PM with my email addy in it. Not much of anything done lately, No Time.....

I agree. Nice find.

Yeah, you need to move the bracket for the cable over to the other side. You may need to put a couple washers on the throttleshaft of the Weber, before you install the cable pivot. The barrel end of the throttle cable can catch on the choke linkage, thinking I have 3 washers on mine to get it to clear. edit; You use the cable pivot from the Hitachi on the Weber. Use the fuel inlet fitting from the Hitachi on there as well. You may need to get some new fuel lines to do so. Some of us that's swapped Webers on have had to install a Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) in the supply line to the Weber. About $20.00 from your local parts store. Not always needed though....

I'll keep that in mind. Haven't attempted anything with the one I have yet, so don't know if I can repair it or not. Hoping I can though... I found a link to download the Service Manuals to this here laptop. So I'm good there. Thanks for the offer though.

PM sent. Thanks

Not much done yesterday. Had lots of errands to run yesterday, so the Wagon didn't get much time spent on it. Spent time digging around for PCV hoses just to see what all I have here. Not enough to do the job by the looks of it. Really could use a good pic of just how the PCV lines are run. The diagrams shown in the Manuals aren't real clear. I need real-world pics of that stuff. Vacation time is over and it's back to work this morning. Going to take longer to get it going now with only a few hours a night to work on it.

Agreed.. Either lost it in the light assembly itself, or where it plugs into the main harness that feeds the back. The ground (earth) point for the rear lights is behind the 1st side panel from the tailgate. Here in the States, it's on the rightside standing at the rear of the BRAT. Pull the light assembly and the panels and check all of the connections. You can pull the other assembly out, plug it into the "bad" side and see if it works right. That will narrow it down the the assembly itself.

Don't know about the extinct part, but yeah they're getting scarce around these parts. None of the yards around me have anything for these older ones. Seeing an EA-81 or EA-82 on the road around here is far and few between. Haven't seen one in awhile now. I know of only one other BRAT in the three counties around me. Not sure what all broke on yours, but maybe you could rebuild the area by welding in some flat steel.

Another day of wrenching has ended. Figured out alot of it, just by looking things over, and over, and over......... Seems I did have all the right stuff here to mount the PS pump, A/C compressor and what-nots. Just needed to get stuff found and do some trial-errror fitting of things. Plus at first, I was wanting to use the wrong bosses on the engine to mount the PS pump bracket. D'OH!!!! Got the motor mount studs thru the X-member by using a prybar. Dropped right in like it supposed to. Not sure what was keeping it from doing that before. It's real close to attempt starting. Need to fix the Y-pipe, (cracked), and get it under there, along with figuring out how/what needs to be done to hook it to the rest of the exhaust piping, (looks like some pipe is missing just eye-balling it). Still need to run all of the PCV hoses on it. Really don't think I have any of the right ones here, so it'll be a custom job at best. Install the disty cap and run the plug wires. Find a correct length accelerator cable for it, as this one is "way to short". Get new drive belts for Alt, PS pump, water pump, A/C. Dropped a battery in it just to check some of the electricals out, but it needs charging some. Did manage to cycle the fuel pump a few times, and I need to hot-wire it to get that nasty old gas out of the tank. Gauge reads 3/4 tank, but a I have the front of the car 3 foot in the air, so it's probally less. But boy, does it smell bad, so it's way old. I was letting it run into a small gas can while doing this. So,,, tomorrow, it may run again. Here's hoping for that.

8* BTDC is the correct setting. But as GD says, you can go 10*.

Had this vehicle for awhile now, just getting around to work on it, make it my winter beater. Had fun dragging it around from the rear of garage to the front so I could start wrenching on it. Both front wheels were locked up from the rust on the rotors/brake pads. Made steering it "fun". They've broke loose now. It's FWD with Auto right now, but I have a FWD 5-speed here to go in it, maybe now, maybe later. Just wanting to get it running for now, figure out all the issues, go from there. Wagon used to belong to OHNoah, aka CIS_Subaru, and is the one he did the VW CIS conversion on. Noah kept all of that stuff, I got just the body, no engine either. I'm in the midst of dropping a carbed EA-82 engine in, with the SPFI stuff installed. Hoping I can figure everything out and get it running that way. If not, I'll just swap the manifold out and put my Weber on it for now. Been digging thru old threads for needed info, found some stuff I needed, still looking for other info. Did find a link to download the Service Manuals for it, so that should help emensly. Biggest issue I have right now is bracketry for the Power Steering. Seems I don't have all the parts here. I have the pump bracket still on the pump, but I seem to be missing other brackets to mount it to the engine. Also the correct A/C bracketry is MIA. Have round compressor, but square compressor bracket. Not going to work that way.. I dropped the engine in lastnight, it's bolted to the trans. But, it seems something is amiss here as the motor mount studs are sitting behind the slots in the x-member by about 1/2 an inch. I'll be checking that issue out when I get back out there this AM. One question for now. Is there a difference in sending units between Digi-dash and Analog dash? Ifso, I need to swap oil and temp stuff out. Really could use some good clear pics of how everything is hooked-up on the engine. Things like PVC hoses, vac lines and what nots. This is the 1st EA-82 SPFI vehicle I've ever worked on, so I'm a bit confused on things. Meh,,, make that lost.... Underhood sticker is un-readable... Haven't looked at those manuals I downloaded yet, so maybe the info I need is in there.

I asked this same question a while ago. You change the whole bracket out, no replacement for the bushing. Any EA-81, EA-82, XT6 bracket will bolt right up.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1267725,parttype,1704 Those 1st 2 are what I bought for mine, doesn't matter that they say for A/T, they fit. Vented rotors are $22.XX or $12.XX on close-out. My previous post wasn't directed at you. I was merely commenting on the mix-n-match that was brought up. It don't work to well....

I want to say that the wiring should be there, from the factory. But I don't know the EA-82's all that well, so can't be 100% on that.

No,, it don't work so well to mix solid-vented brake parts. Whoever the former owner of my '86 BRAT was, (before 86subaru bought it), swapped in an older solid-lifter motor. No problem there. But,,,,, they also swapped a solid rotor onto the PS keeping the vented caliper in place.. Worked ok, until the brake pads wore down. Then it decided to chuck the outer pad out of the bracket when I hit the brakes. Luckily, I was just a few hundred yards from the driveway when that happened. 4 year old Grandson and I made home with no issues. I promtly put the correct parts back on....

Read thru the entire thread, good stories in here. Here's mine. Few years back, I used to give another co-worker rides to work/home. Bob gave me all kinds of grief about reving the engine so high while running up thru the gears. '86 BRAT GL, Webered Solid lifter EA-81, D/R4Spd. After hearing him constantly bemoan my driving it "normally". I asked him how he thought I should do the shift-points. "Keep it under 3 grand"... So I did, just to show him how doggy it was doing that. He never said anything about it again.... Can't say right now what the 1-2, 2-3 shift-points are. But I do the 3-4 one at 50 or 55 MPH, depending on what road I'm on. I have hit 70+ in 3rd a few times getting on the highway, or passing a line of slow cars on one of the backroads I normally drive on. Drive the "bone-stock" '85 BRAT the same way. I've been thinking of swapping the Weber over to this one, but the Hitachi is still doing it's job fairly well. Maybe, next Spring,, I'll swap the carb out.

Can't say I recall the name, but welcome back. I'm over in Hillsdale, Mi. Contact 86subaru thru a PM. He lives in Ohio, and finds all kinds of Subarus for sale while driving his big rig around. He may be able to help you get one.

Glad to see that you made it back here. Good luck on the car search.....

I like it!!! Looks quite handy.. I've "engineered" a few engine hoist myself over the years, nothing like that though. Nice....

'85 BRAT, so far this month. Swapped radiator and T-stat. No help in getting temp reading below the 1/2 mark, everything else is less than 2 years old as far as cooling system stuff. Still digging... Current 2-row radiator is 7 years old, and in great condition. New front/rear fuel filters helped the drivability issues I was having. Chasing a vibration now. Swapped driveshaft already, no help. Starts around 40 mph, just makes the whole BRAT "hum", so can't pin-point it by ear. Has good axles all around, new front wheel bearings. Have new motor and tranny mounts to install, so maybe that will help?!? Due for oil/filter change, needs new cap/rotor, plugs and wires.

No need for outlets every stud cavity, that's going way overboard. A twin duplex set of outlets every 8' along the walls will be plenty of them. Depending on what amp service you run, and size of breaker panel, you can split them up on a few different circuits, and be good to go. I would place outlets for things like welders, plasma cutters and other 220V Single phase items along each wall. These can be wired into a couple seperate breakers, as you won't be using everything at once. Lots of good lighting, wired into a couple seperately switched and breakered circuits. I have 6-4 place-4' tube flourecent fixtures in the same size garage. Not enough... Have one or two lighting fixtures on a seperate switch so you don't have alot of lights burning just to do a quick "run in and grab" something out of the garage at night. That'll save on your electric bill. When you run the piping for the air, do a complete loop around the garage, and place the drops 8 to 10 foot apart along the non door areas. Run that loop about two foot down from the top of the side walls, higher where it crosses the door of course.. Have the Tee's in the main line pointing up to feed the drops. This will help with condensation issues in the main line getting into the drops. Try to slope the main line back towards the compressor also to help condesate drainage. A good filtering system is called for in the main line also, especially if you plan on doing any painting. Better check local codes on the floor drain. They don't allow them around here in private garages. Possible contamination from oil, antifreeze, fuel is why. Doesn't matter if you have a sepitic tank, or are on the sewer system, it's a no-no....

You didn't say what year engine you have, but it sounds like it's an early EA-81 with solid lifters. I have one of those, and the lifters are some what noisy until the engine warms up, then she's quiet. For flushing the engine out; -for the oil system, I use Dextron Automatic Tranny Fluid (ATF). It works very good, and one can flush the manual trans with it also. -for the cooling system, I use a flush marketed by one of the makers of anti-freeze. I also leave it in the system longer than they say to on the bottle. Don't know if you have any NAPA Parts stores there. But if you do, they sell Mac's Radiator Cleanser. That is some good stuff right there. Cleans out some nasty systems with ease. I use that on vehicles with cast iron engines that the owners have neglected to properly maintain the cooling systems. Those get down right nasty....