TomRhere

Sorry, no pics of the work done. I had thought of taking some, but really didn't want to get that yuck all over my camera. I try to keep parts on hand for future repairs, and get most of them thru rockauto or 1stsubaru. Hardest part about doing any of that work was no bench-vise. Had to use a C-clamp and a sawhorse to hold rack and axles. Plus not having any snap-ring pliers here, (all at work), made the axle job more fun. But a nail set punch and thin blade screwdriver worked for removing them. I know I didn't get the boot clamps tight enough on the axles. So those will be replaced today, (during lunch), with some zip-ties.

We got 5" here, of Heavy Wet stuff. Reports of up to 8" around the area. Lots of tree branches down, some power outages.

Spent yesterday building me some axles. Dug out all of the used and abused ones I have here, and started tearing them apart for cleaning and inspection. Went thru a bunch of old T-shirts/now rags cleaning the yuck off. Managed to build 2 that feel pretty good flexing the joints by hand. Got them installed, and eyeballed the toe setting for the front tires after getting her back on all fours. Took her out for a 6 mile jaunt hitting 55 mph a couple times. No vibration, no shimmy, no pulling/drifting to either side. Seems we're good to go. Just in time too. Got dumped on with some white stuff overnight, calling for more today.

Spent time yesterday fixing issues on the BRAT. Had some good luck, then hit a wall... 1st off, and main issue was. While driving home last Monday, steering got real loose after making the left off US-12 onto Milnes Rd. Had about 1/4 turn of freeplay in the steering. Was just fine before that turn. Got home and had Son move the steering wheel as I looked over things. Seems I lost the rag joint on the steering rack. Had to do a road trip for the shop, so repairs would have to wait. BRAT be parked. NOPE!! Seems one of the bolts on the rack side of the connection broke. Okay, dug out spare rack, swapped on 'new" inner tie-rod ends, re-installed rack. New inners are really stiff, was "fun" trying to thread them into the outer joints. They're hard to rotate, and kept wanting to move off center as I turned them, but I got it. Still need to set toe. Only thing left to replace on the front suspension now is the strut rod bushings. Everything else is new or in good condition. 2nd issue, Had an exhaust leak from the Y-pipe for awhile, just hadn't had time to fix it. Thought it was that the PS pipe had cracked inside the shielding, as I could feel exhaust pulses from the "hot air" connection. NOPE!! Just had a blown gasket. But it wasn't until I cut the shielding off of the pipe that I found that. Didn't see any signs of a crack in the pipe, so I looked real close at the gasket, it be bad. Why I could feel exhaust pulses out of the "hot air" connection is beyond me. Gasket was blown on the backside. New gaskets, re-install Y-pipe, no leaks.... The wall,,, About 2 weeks ago, I noticed both front inner boots were spitting out that nasty yuck. These are GCK axles, about 28 months old. Thinking there was a pin-hole in them, as it wasn't alot of yuck, and I couldn't find any tears. Don't know why both were doing it though. Pull both axles to re-boot them, as the boots are now trashed. Ain't happening!!!!. Seems the inner joint on these are larger than stock axles, and that's what I have here for new boots. OEM Subaru boots. I have an assortment of used axles, some with bad outers, some with bad inners. Going to see if I can build me a couple of axles out of all the pieces. I'll also be calling AutoZone to see what they can do about replacing the GCK's. GCK is no longer in business, so no replacement from those guys. Maybe I can find boots for the GCK's. Maybe I can get some money off on some other axles. We'll see. More wrenching to be done.... Oh! The GCK's inner joint is a 3-legged inner unit with rollers on needle bearings, VS the OEM cage/race/ball bearing setup.

I have one I could let go. May want to see if someone closer to you posts with one. It would take 3-4 days to get to you, unless it was overnighted, = more $ for S&H.

1st guess would be ignition timing is to advanced. 2nd guess would be battery cable connections. 3rd guess would be weak starter.

1st '86 BRAT, the HH leaked, but it was operational. '82 BRAT, cable was MIA when I bought the BRAT. 2nd '86 BRAT, improperly adjusted at 1st, wouldn't let go 'till clutch was fully released, slacked the adjustment, haven't re-adjusted it yet. '88 XT6, never noticed it operate, that I can remember of anuways. '85 BRAT, it's there, but not adjusted properly. May do so to make it easier for Del to drive it. Myself, don't or didn't really use it in the ones it worked in. I can do the clutch/brake/gas pedal thing pretty good. Spent 11 years driving a 22' box truck, 5-spd trans, 2-spd rear axle.

The voltage you're seeing is coming thru the filaments of the headlights. Yes, they are being fed with 12VDC, but the resistance of the filament wire(s) is dropping that down to 6VDC. You will have that voltage on the wires from headlight to switch, as the switch makes the connection to battery - for the circuit. Now, that will only stand true if the bulbs are plugged in. If you're seeing voltage on those wires with the bulbs un-plugged, seems there would be a wiring issue. But I'm thinking you don't have voltage when they're un-plugged. edit: FYI. There are alot of DC electrical devices that will operate at a lower voltage than what they are rated for. We use 24VDC control devices on our machines at work. Most of them will operate on 3 to 28 VDC. We use resistors and or diodes to keep things properly switched and controlled.

Asking just for clarification. Lift and duration is the key here for more "performance" out of a cam grind, yes? I know that you can't have the lobe bigger than the bearing journal of a cam, so you "decrease" the base of the lobe. Therefore, "increasing" the lift, yes? Duration would be accomplished by "widening" the top of the lobe, yes? Reason for asking is, The DC cam "appears" to have smaller bases, but the "lobes" don't look any wider at the peak area. Looks like more "lift", but not to much "duration". The Hydro cam "appears" to have largers base area, but the lobes look to be "wider" at the peak area. Looks like more duration, but less "lift". Am I just seeing things wrong here? edit: I know the valve open/close timing has to do with it also, just asking about the lift/duration aspect of it.

Look in this link for the PCV stuff. http://mshoup.us/docs/fsm/EA81/83/Chapter05-Emission_Control_System.pdf Maybe this link can help with the trans issue. http://mshoup.us/docs/fsm/EA81/83/Chapter06-Manual_Transmission_And_Differential.pdf

Connie, I would love to go play in the mud.... Love to meet a few more Subaholics too. But,,, I do have to leave here Friday. Seems there was a mix up with the trucking outfit. They didn't schedule an appointment to deliver the slicer, so it won't be at the bakery until tomorrow afternoon. SUCKS!!!! Cause I'm here with nothing to do but surf the net for awhile. Might head down to the lounge here in a few and have a few cold ones. Also, the bakery pushed back the production run to Thursday night vs Wednesday, so we won't have as much time to observe the run. Not exactly what we had in mind.. Can say it's a gorgeous day out though!!!!!!! Fred, Sent you a PM.

Got it. We'll see how Thursday goes.

Pull the 4 bolts that attach the driveshaft to the rear diff. Straighten out a coathanger, and use it to tie the DS off to the side. Tie it to the exhaust pipe if you want, it's there right handy. Put the vehicle on the dolly and haul it. edit: be sure to leave the ignition unlocked, so the front wheels will turn around corners....

Ray left today without leaving much info for me. Seems we fly out tomorrow, spend the afternoon at the Bakery. Finish up the swap if needed on Wednesday morning. Product run is that afternoon into Thursaday AM. No flight out for me Thursday, so I spend the night and head back here Friday AM. That's all the info he left me. Gee Thanks, Ray!!!!! Looks like Thursday night is a free night for me....

I tow-dollied a 4WD Auto 385 miles without disconnecting the rear driveshaft. Had no issues with the trans after the trip.

Cruise Control ??

Totally understandable. It can be a bit overwhelming of a job the first time. Maybe someone on here that lives close to you would be able to assist you. Plus, there's other items to consider replacing while you're into it that far. Not saying you have to do these, but it's some to consider. Especially if you have no clue as to when they were done last. T-belts, tensioners, and idler pulleys, oil pump, (maybe just reseal it), water pump, front crank seal. (I'd do that one atleast)

Don't have all the details yet as to flight time, hotel, yadda yadda. Hopefully,,,, I'll have that info tomorrow. But with Ray setting up the trip, who knows. May not know until I get to work on Tuesday.

3 ways coolant gets into combustion chamber' Carb/throttle body to intake gasket, intake to head gasket(s) head gasket(s). Myself, I would get the afore mention gaskets, ( actually get a valve grind set, has everything you need), and just start pulling things off, starting with the carb, then intake, then heads. Blown gasket is fairly obvious when you get to it.

I'll be heading there on Tuesday, 3-31 and returning home on Thursday 4-2. Just curious if anyone on here is in the area. Not sure if I can actually meet with anyone, depends on free time. Going there to install a new slicer head in a customers Bakery, then make sure it performs correctly for them. Won't be that enjoyable of a trip, as I'm going there with our salesman, Ray. I really don't like the arrogant SOB. I miight make it out of the parking lot at work before being fired, he may live to see the city limits. On the otherhand, it may be enjoyable to watch the customer chew on him once we get there. Ray sold them a slicer head that won't do the product selection that he said it would, they ain't happy with him. The head of our field service department has talked to the customer, found exactly what it is they are looking for in a slicer, and had one built for them, the one I'm going down to install. Link to our web site: http://lematic.com/index.php I do the electrical of the machinery, and do occassinal road trips. My oldest Son, Rich, builds the slicer heads.

Aye!!!

Yes, there are 2 trans mounts, and 2 engine mounts. And as far as rockauto goes, I've ordered parts from them many times over the years, (close to a couple grand of $ now), and have received the wrong part only once. Seems the picker transposed a couple numbers. But an email to them explaining the issue got me the correct part sent "overnight", and they let me keep the wrong one. (Don't know what I'll ever do with it though).

Mine were sorta intermittant, until they actually blew out. Running around town, no issue. Let it idle to long, (like to clear frost off windshield), or make a trip over say 15 miles, and she'd steam out the exhaust. These were temporary "homemade" gaskets back when I 1st swapped the EA-82 intake onto my EA-81 engine. Proper Subaru intake gaskets, and she was good to go...

Things to start checking; Check that the T-belt timing is correct. Align the center of the 3 - l l l flywheel marks with the pointer. One cam sprocket dot should be at the top, the other one should be at the bottom. Check disty timing. Put #1 cylinder at TDC. Pull the spark plug and put your finger over the hole, turn engine over with socket on crank pulley bolt until you feel the air pushing on your finger. Then align the timing pointer to "0" on the flywheel. Cylinders: 3----4 1----2 Disty cap; --1-- 3---4 --2-- Rotor should be pointing at #1 plug tower on the cap. Plug wires in proper rotation. Next, re-check the electrical connections for the disty. Make sure they are properly connected.

The rope is used to pull the gasket over the lip of the opening. I like to lube the gasket a bit with some gritless hand cleaner, just makes it easier in my opinion. The coners can be a pain, but take your time and work your way around them. Cutting the gasket is the easiest way to remove the donor glass. Good sharp razor knife is the method I use.